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Hey everyone! I've recently experienced a problem with my PC and my homes breaker. Under seemingly the most random of loads; sometimes playing AAA games at max settings with HDR, and other times just on a call with my friend without HDR, my computer will shut off as well as everything else in my room, which I am assuming is my breaker being pulled, since the power loss is exclusively in my room. I've tried many different fixes, most notably using an extension cable to route just my pc power to a different circuit, while leaving everything else like my HDR monitor and other electronics on the other circuit, effectively spitting power usage over two circuits. This did work! For a week or so, until I started seeing this issue happening again (albeit less often then it was happening before) So! Here we are, me sitting at my pc, wondering when it will pull my fuse next. Is there any possible fixes or solutions you can think of? One of the big things I was thinking, is maybe its my PSU? It's quite a budget one, and decided to reuse it after buying a new PC. It's enough to handle my components no problem, even at max load, and hasnt shat out on me. But maybe it is the issue? I ideally dont want to be out 100 bucks for a new PSU if I don't have too. Let me know if that's a fair assumption, and if it is a psu problem, what ones do you recommend for my build? Thanks! PC SPECS: CPU: intel i7-12700k GPU: Nvidia 3070 (8gb) RAM: 32gb 3600 DDR4 MB: asrock b660m-pro PSU: I have no idea, and im too lazy to unplug everything and see. Just assume its a budget PSU. Nothing fancy (If it's really important I can check, just let me know) OS: Windows 11 Home TL;DR: My PC is causing my home's breaker to trip randomly, especially during intense gaming or even simple tasks. I've tried various fixes like routing PC power separately, but the problem persists. Could it be my budget PSU causing the issue? I'm hesitant to buy a new one if it's unnecessary. If that's the issue, got recommendations for a reliable PSU for my build?

Hello, i have a Citroen Xsara with the factory radio/headunit and factory speakers. I am planning on upgrading the audio setup with a Pioneer 100w x4 (40w rms) headunit and better speakers. The problem is that the factory radio power circuit has a dedicated 10A fuse for the HU but the Pioneer HU has a 15A fuse and might require more than 10A of power. Is it ok to just replace the 10A fuse with a 15a one since there is no other systems on the same circuit? Sorry if I posted this in a wrong place not sure where I should.

Hi everyone, hope you are all well. Having a bit of trouble with my PC. Here is the setup: Plug in the wall socket --> leads to a 6-way surge protected extension block from Maplin --> plugged into this extension block is 2 things, my monitor and PC. The last couple of weeks when switching the plug (for the extension block) on at the wall there has been a loud popping noise and a bright white light (I believe an arc). But the PC has switched on fine afterwards (as does the monitor) and everything works fine. But last night I switched the extension block on at the wall and there was a loud pop/bang noise and a very big arc that appeared to come out the wall socket. It was only there for a split millisecond. Was quite scary actually. Pulled my hand immediately back. This caused all the sockets in my university room to trip. So I had to go to the fusebox in the kitchen and trip my rooms switch back up. That fixed the circuit problem - all the sockets in my room now work again (for desk lamp, charging phone, charing laptop etc.) However, when I now press the power button on my PC, it does not power on. I have had the electrician / maintenance guy out and he says the wall sockets are all fine, nothing wrong with them - all earthed correctly etc. I have ordered a new Belkin surge protector from Amazon, that is coming soon. I took the fuse out of the PC's Power kettle lead. It didn't look blown, but have replaced it with a new fuse anyway. I have bypassed the extension block (in case this was the problem), and temporarily plugged PC power lead straight into the wall. When I try and power on the PC it makes the tiniest little noise for a split second, it's just like a sizzle of electricity, hard to explain, but it's miniscule. But yeah, my PC now no longer turns on. Could the fuse in the power supply have gone? My PSU is a 650w Corsair RMx series. I have emailed Corsair, but all they said was can you upload your original receipt. So I have done that, am now awaiting a reply from them. Any help would be hugely appreciated. I really need my PC for university and photography work, but obviously cannot currently use it as it won't power on at all. Thanks, Oli.

Hello, I got a PSU that blows the housefuse(10A 230V/50Hz(I live in Denmark)). There is no warrenty on it, so I'll like to see if I can fix it. PSU = Cooler master G650M Results: - PSU plugged in but switched off = No blowen fuse - PSU switched on (and plugged in)= Fuse blows instantly (Not connected to a pc, and psu is NOT "shorted" (papirclip test)) So no load - Can't test with load I can measure 1K ohms between L1 (phase I think it would be called in english) and N (neutral). I would think that this should, atleast be 1M ohms. I can also measure ~100 ohms between +12V and GND ~100 ohms between +5V and GND ~100 ohms between +3,3V and GND However all these readings are the moment the multimeter touches the metal. If I hold them for longere the ohms keeps on going up. Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/TzKlbmX I know that information is scarce so if you need more info just let me know. FYI I think it's fun to play around with electronics. I don't NEED to get it working but would like to.

I am building a SAP-1 Hobby computer, set to run on Intel 8086 instruction set. Though, there is a detail on the (spotty) parts list. The power supply requires a fuse, as listed in the picture below. I can read the text, but I do not know what it means. Could one of you help we with that? I do not know if the 3/8-A slow blow means the filament length (in) or the rated Amperage.

Hello,I have the RM650X, it makes a pop noise every time i switch the switch on the surge protected extension lead which my pc is plugged into. Yesterday when i switched the switched it blown the fuse in PSU, there was a loud bang and a flash, it also tripped my fuse box. The PSU now is completely dead. This is the 2nd RM650X within 1yr, the same problem happened before which then i got a replacement. I've looked around on different forums and read that other people have had the same problem with this particular PSU. My question is why this happening? Is the RM650X a bad PSU or am i doing something wrong?

So in my infinite wisdom I may have broke a aftermarket car radio. Here's the setup, 2005 Chrysler 300 stock harness correctly adapted to aftermarket radio through an adapter harness thing most aftermarket radios use, however for my red wire 12V constant that activates on ignition, I tapped in a wire for the 12V plug/cigarette lighter (what is even the proper term these days?) Because the stock 12v constant was not strong enough to turn on the radio (common issue with chrylser, Chevy, and jeeps I read) Worked fine besides some other unrelated issues. I took a multimeter and touched a red probe to a metal prong (one at 9 o'clock position of plug) in the 12v power plug and it sparked and the radio shut off and now won't turn back on. Rest of car electrical system fine. I will inspect it later , but is this just a blown fuse on the radio or did I kill the radio, and if someone could explain the electrical mistake I made and what I made happen so I learn from my mistake , that would be great. @iamdarkyoshi @CUDAcores89 (you guys seems to be good with this stuff if you got any input please chime in, much appreciated) Also my amp wasn't turning on does anyone know how I can help a multimeter not like a moron in order to test if it's receiving power from the 12V (from battery directly), how to check if my remote on cable is working (sends signal when car radio is turned on telling amp to power on), and also how to check if my ground for the amp is working.

I'm going to put some flames (flamethrower and firecrackers) in an old pentium 3 pc for a video and I wonder if the fuse would pop if I did it. I will try to keep the psu from burning down and aim for the cpu and mobo. Is there a shorting protection in the psu or will the fuses just pop when the mobo dies? (Pentium 3 era)

Title speaks for itself, but I got one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YT5YLP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Im using the cig lighter fuse which is 15 amps and it works when i put the fuse and the fuse tap in. I tried using the hardwire kit here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077C1HTPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and then crimp it it doesn't power the dashcam, PS: i plan on getting this to see the license plate better: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076F27TLH/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_12?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3CIGEUYW4U1DT but currently using this https://www.amazon.com/VANTRUE-OnDash-R2-Vantrue/dp/B01CODX8ZY/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1517084364&sr=8-16&keywords=vantrue+dashcam Edit: Does having something in the cig lighter affect it?

Hello, I am trying to locate a screen back light fuse on an HP Chromebook 14 G4's main board. I think I may have blown it after connecting an incompatible screen to the main board. What happened was I had to order a replacement screen for the chromebook after the screen got smashed. and I was unaware that there were 2 different types of connectors. When I tried to connect the replacement screen to the main board, it didn't work at all. I soon realized that I had ordered the wrong one and sent it back and ordered the correct one. Now, I can see things on the screen, but the back light doesn't appear to be working. I tried the old screen (the back light originally worked in it's broken state), but the back light didn't come on anymore on that screen too. Any help is appreciated.

I keep on getting the error I really dont understand this. I've been able to do it before with my laptop and IDK why its not doing it now. Running latest Windows 7 Professional (Just updated today) Thanks in advance.

Hi. So i started my speakers up and there was only sound coming from the satellites and not from the sub. I have tried every input method and i tried changing the power outlet nothing worked. I thought it might be the fuse that broke so i opened it up, But i think it is ok the wire is not of and it is not burnt. Could it still be the fuse or does anyone have any other ideas what it could be or how to fix it.

hi everyone, Last night I was doing some 3d work in google sketchup, and all of the sudden my pc shut down, the house went dark and there was a loud popping sound coming from behind the pc (like a popping balloon). After some testing I discovered it was the PSU (Corsair Ax-860i) that was causing my fuse to blow out. I know this because when I unplugged all the cables that go from the PSU to the other components, plugged the PSU in the power outlet in the wall, and turned it on, the fuse blew again. I always have my PSU power cable plugged directly into a grounded power outlet in the wall. Does anyone have an explanation for what could have been the problem and how to go on when I get a new PSU? Moreover, I haven't overclocked the system since 3 months ago, it's been running at stock cpu clock speeds and 2100 mhz on the ram. When I first bought the rig I had my 5820k running stable on 4700 with 1.31V Vcore and Maximum load temps of 72-76 Celcius per core. For my 24/7 overclock I turned it down to 4600 with 1.29Vcore and sub70 temps. It never gave a BSOD, and never got above 70 Celcius. The only problem was the ram memory, which is G.skill ddr4 rated at 2800mhz C16. I couldn't get it to run stable on 2800mhz, not even with CPU on stock speeds. But I didn't have time to spend more time overclocking because I had to work on the PC, so I settled with 2666 on the ram, which seemed to be stable at the time. Although it passed memtest 24H without errors I still had some weird things going on with the PC in the following months, Icons not loading, memory sticks not beeing detected, etc. So I turned the ram back to stock speeds, and the problems were gone for a little while. When the problems started to return, I set my CPU back to stock speeds too, because I didn't really have time to diagnose. Turning down the CPU overclock didn't help. So last week I decided to replace my RAM kit with a slightly bigger one: 32GB G.skill 3000C15, which is beeing shipped at this moment. And now the PSU breaks down. Is this a coincidence, or are these 2 events connected in some way? E.g. was it the PSU that was making the RAM act weird all the time, or was it maybe the RAM that caused the PSU to short? Is that even possible? Or is it maybe the Mobo that is behind all of this? So my second question is: Does anyone happen to know what could have been the cause of the PSU short out? And how do I go on diagnosing what caused all this? I'm sorry for the long post, I don't think it's possible to come up with a sollution if I don't give you any background info. I hope someone can help me out with this. Thank you in advance for the effort! Best regards, Dave PS I'lll be out of town tomorrow, so I can't reply that whole day, so if my reply comes a little late, it's not because I'm not interested or I don't care.

I've always wondered if its possible to fuse the integrated graphics from an Intel CPU with a Nvidia Graphics Card, I've heard of AMD crossfire using the AMD CPU graphics to help the AMD GPU. Is is possible with Intel and Nvidia?? Why or Why not? (Just super curious) Thanks for your time

My headset cable broke, so I tried wiring it together like this ( http://imgur.com/XiiFWXt ). I didnt have any electric tape, so I just thought, like an idiot, that it was enought and plugt it in my computer, it didnt work, but after 5 sec my computer stopped sending an output to my 2 screens. I couldnt do anything to get an image on my screens, so I tried to shut down my computer by pressing the power buttom, but no matter how long time i pressed it, it wouldnt shut down, so i unplugged the power. I tried to plug it in again to turn it on, but, no suprice, it wont start, and still wont after 2 hours. I dont know what happend, could it be something with a fuse that blew. It's a really expensive pc, and im really scared. I hope it's only the power supply I have to pay for. This is the first place i think about when I need help with tech. If you have any idear what this might be, PLEASE help me :I

Hey guys! So I'm gaming on my PC when my power supply makes a popping noise and shuts off completely... After I stopped crying I tried to figure out what had just happened and I think it might be a fuse on the power supply... I have tried: different sockets, different leads, a different psu on the same PC (which worked).... It's as though it just kinda died... Thanks

Some how,water got into my PSU and when i turned it on,the fuse blew.All the other components seem to be working fine,I've even jumed the leads of the blown out fuse and tuned on the PSU.What i wanted to know was that can i use the psu with a jumped fuse for a week or two till the new fuse i ordered arrive?Also when the fuse on the PSU went off,the curcuit braker of my house also tripped.