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  1. Recently, I've had a problem with my fans staying at higher RPMs (and therefore louder) even after temps fall back down to idle. Basically whenever I play a game or set a render, fans will increase along the curve I've set for the CPU temps, but when I stop and let my computer sit, temps will go back down naturally with little to no load but the fans stay at the speed they got to until I restart or put my computer to sleep, and they'll fall back down to normal. GPU fans will go down like normal, just not my case/rad fans It's honestly not that big of a deal, but its annoying so any advice would be very appreciated! Computer Specs in case they help: Asus ROG STRIX B550-F Gaming WIFI 2 Ryzen 5 5600G Corsair iCue H150i Elite LCD AIO 2 Noctua NF-P14s redux 140mm Intake 3 Noctua NF-P12 redux 120mm Exhaust through AIO 32 GB 3600 Mhz Corsair Vengeance RAM XFX Radeon 6900XT all in a Lian Li O11 Dynamic EVO
  2. Hello Peeps. I got some Deepcool ARGB casing fans from a Deepcool Mattrex case .But these fans have 3 pin JSTSM connector and I wasn't provided any converter. So is there any way to use ARGB on these fans without any converter/hub/ splitter? live in a kind of remote area so hard to get anything
  3. Hello all!!! I'm curious as to if my motherboard will work for using 10 fans total. I've come to the understanding that it should work, but as every human does, we make errors. The motherboard I am looking to use is the MSI PRO Z790-A MAX WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard. This motherboard has the following: 1x CPU fan, 1x pump fan, and 6x system fan headers. I will be using a MSI MPG CORELIQUID D360 liquid cooler and the fans I will be using will be 6 Arctic P12 PWM PST A-RGBs and a Arctic P14 PWM PST A-RGB in a Hyte Y70 case. My main question is: Will this work? And if this does work, will I require an A-RGB splitter or A-RGB fan hub??? Any help would much appreciated.
  4. Hello, I have a question that I want to know. Which is better when it comes to cooling, 3 120mm fans or 2 140mm fans? On the website for the case I have one of the sides support up to either 3 120’s or 2 140’s (the case I have is the MSI MPG Velox 100R if that info is useful) the fans I am planning on using is the Noctua A12x25 fan as my 120mm fans and the Noctua A14 fans as my 140mm fans if that is of any help. What is better at cooling the 3 A12x25’s or 2 A14’s?
  5. Hi i have a question that might be dumb. But i have the MSI MPG Velox 100R case. It says it supports 3 front 140mm fans but only a 360 front radiator. So if it can have 3 140 fans why can't it have a 420 rad? is this a dumb question? T~T the radiator im wanting is the arctic liquid freezer iii which is 458mm length and the MSI MPG Velox 100R case is 474x231x490mm in size
  6. I have a problem just like this. However, I am given the option for 3 90mm fans for the bottom. Could I use it as intake and the other 3 as exhaust? Reference to this topichttps://linustechtips.com/topic/1474998-recommended-fan-positioning-on-a-case-with-no-front-intake/?_report=120019#comment-16330959
  7. Hello everyone! I have a few doubts regarding my case's ability to properly cool my components. First off, the front panel is solid (I know, should've gotten a mesh one). Second, there's 3 mounting slots for fans, one 120mm at the back and 2x 120mm at the top. Now, the conventional wisdom says that intake fans should be placed at the front and at the bottom of the case and that the rest should be exhaust. Obviously, i can't run that setup due to the mounting and air-flow constraints (side panel is tempered glass, so no luck there either). My components aren't that hot to begin with (Ryzen 3 4100 and XFX RX 580 8GB), but the GPU temps do hit around 77-78c at max tilt. Currently, I only have one exhaust fan at the back. I was thinking of RGB-ing the case with 3 fans, but I'm unsure of the air flow guidelines for my specific scenario, couldn't find anything similar online. Any help would be appreciated. Best regards!
  8. Hey all. I bought Antec fusion fans which come with a fan/RGB hub included. I have 4 fans plugged into it, and they all light up/power on - but only one of them (the one plugged into the first slot) adjusts its RPM (and displays the speed accordingly) while the rest blow at 100%. These are 4 pin fans plugged into a 4 pin cha_fan header (which I've checked the manual, DOES support PWM). I've tried the two chasis headers on the board and the same issue persists. If I move the fan to different slots on the hub, it loses the ability to change its speed and report it back (BIOS shows 'N/A' on that header). I've made sure all connections are secure and seated, to no avail. CPU/AIO fan is plugged into CPU_FAN while the pump itself is on CPU_OPT (Was going to switch it to AIO_PUMP but as it seems that both are virtually the same and the guide even suggested the former, I left it as-is) The hub is plugged into CHA_FAN2 (Originally CHA_FAN1) and already set to PWM mode. There is no SYS_FAN header. I switched the source from CPU to motherboard, and that yielded no results. I'm working with an ROG Strix Z370-E (fairly old, but it was gifted to me and is now in a less powerful system than my main). Here's a diagram from the manual showing all the fan inputs.
  9. Hello everyone, I have ordered a set of Lian li fans and found this on all the packaging?!?!! Do I have to worry about handling the fans?
  10. So my case has tempered glass panels on 1 side and the front, the rest is mesh. I have a dust filter on the bottom. I got 6 fans and the AIO will come, but I have a problem though it sounds really stupid. Do I need to use fans for exhaust, if yes, which one? Or are they all just for intake? I wondered because someone told me to use my bottom fans (with dust filter) for exhaust, but I'm not sure what to do because it doesn't make sense to me. Thanks for reading/reacting!
  11. Hi, i have a 2018 prebuilt pc, i was going through some internal renovations, and i noticed that the only fan i have is right next to the CPU fan and it was an exhaust. I honestly doubt that it makes sense since it's stealing air from the CPU, but since i'm not a great PC builder i assumed i was wrong and wanted to ask for more information, should i put it back as exhaust or reverse it as intake? For information, my PC is MB: ROG GL12CP CPU: i7 8700 GPU: 1050 RAM: 2 x 16 at 2666 PSU: Some chinese but Asus branded 360W
  12. Hi everyone, I was having issues with my case fans over the last few days and I ended up breaking this cable, i've asked on reddit for the name of it or where to buy it but I wasn't able to get much help. I was told to look up "PWM extension", "4-pin header cable" but I wasn't able to find what i'm looking for. Every listing on Amazon and ebay were male to female cables that I would not be able to use. It's the cable that goes from the mobo usb header to the fan hub, I broke it earlier and my front fans aren't working as a result. Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks a bunch.
  13. I have purchased a TT Divider 170 TG ARGB case, a TT TH240 V2 Ultra ARGB cooler, and an extra set of CT120 ARGB fans to complete a uniform set of case fans (as research indicated they are the same as those that come with the case and cooler). I've stumbled into an issue where the case fans have a different connector than all the other fans, even though they are -all- marked "TT1225 A1225L12S". The case fan controller only uses the 8-pin power and ARGB ribbon cable, whereas the ones that came with the cooler and extra set of 2 use the easy daisy-chainable separate power and ARGB cables-- meaning they cannot be used with the case fan controller and must be on their own channel. Does anyone know how/why/what can be done to assure the ARGB experience is uniform throughout the system? Motherboard has 2 ADD.HEADER (ASUS), and based on instruction, it looks like I have to choose between 4 fans or 2 fans being synced thanks to this terrible design oversight by TT...but not sure if I use one for the controller and the other for the ARGB daisy chain, if they will be receiving the same sync. I specifically got these extra fans because I found they were the same as those that came stock with the case...and it does appear to be so, but apparently there was a generational change to the entire TT ARGB ecosystem betwen the mfr date of the case, versus the cooler...and there wasn't anything to indicate this during build planning. Option 1: Connect the daisychain to the 2nd mobo 5v RGB connector and additional PWM fan header, leaving the case RGB controller only handling the 2 included case fans. Option 2: Connect the daisy chains to the case controller's "Additional V5 ARGB" and "Additional fan" headers, making the controller the single source of connection.
  14. Anyone know of a 7+ port fan hub, preferably one that's controllable from Debian software? I currently have a Corsiar Commander Pro connected to all my fans because I found a article that explained how to setup proxmox to control the fans (I just never got around to implementing it); however, after a rebuild I am now at 7 fans which is 1 more than my commander pro can support. I could use a Y splitter but I don't want to do that because I want all of my fans to have PWM control and all the Y splitters I have and have seen won't allow that. I've been trying to find a 2 - 4 port fan hub from Corsiar but I'm not having any luck, although I am funding RGB hubs of that type. I want software controlled because I'm hoping I'll be able to run the fans slower (and therefore quieter) than they would be when direct motherboard connected. If I'm wrong in this then do let me know. If someone knows of a different 7+ port fan hub that's also controllable from within proxmox/Debian then I'd really appreciate it if you could let me know what that is.
  15. I upgraded to a new motherboard for my small form factor PC (Gigabyte AMD Ryzen A520 AM4 Mini-ITX Motherboard) and when my computer first starts it goes to 100% for a few seconds then goes down to the fan curve. However, when it sleeps the computer's fans go to 100% and i cannot stop it by attempting to restart it the only way to get it to turn off is to switch the power supply off and on again (pressing and holding the power button doesn't work) Is there any setting in my BIOS I could use to fix this Thanks
  16. I came across ltt edition noctua fan but can't seem to buy it anywhere. Where can I get it brand new?
  17. Hello everyone! I just build together a pc for my little brother from my old parts. and the PSU started making weird sounds when turned on like zzz or when ur says SSSS but loud. The pc specs are; Processor: Intel Pentium G4400, GPU : GTX 970, Motherboard : H110M PRO-VD PLUS. Can somone help me? Thanks
  18. Hello everyone, I am seeking assistance with an issue that arose after I used the DisplayPort on my graphics card for the first time and installed an Arctic P12 Silent fan. Everything was functioning perfectly when using HDMI previously. Here are my system specifications: - Motherboard: Z87K - CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K - RAM: 16GB - PSU: Cooler Master Thunder 600W - Graphics Card: RX580 8GB 2048SP Issue Description: The problem emerged immediately after I switched from an HDMI connection to a DisplayPort on my graphics card, using a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter connected to my TV, and right after installing the Arctic P12 Silent fan. The sequence of events was as follows: 1. The computer powered on briefly and displayed a signal on the screen for a few seconds before shutting down. 2. Attempts to restart the PC resulted in a half-second start-up without booting. Troubleshooting Steps Taken: - Removed and reinstalled the CMOS battery. - Reseated the RAM. - Tried connecting the GPU to another PCIE x16 slot. - Checked all connections and power cycled the system. - Notably, the system functions only when the GPU is removed. - The motherboard firmware is updated to the latest version. - The issue persisted even after disconnecting the new fan. - Upon pressing the power button with the GPU connected, the PC initiates a half-second boot sequence only on the first attempt after reconnection to power. There's no response on subsequent attempts unless power is cycled again. - Cannot access BIOS with the discrete GPU as the system won't boot when it is connected Additional Information: - This was my first time using the DisplayPort, having previously used HDMI without any issues. - The Arctic P12 Silent fan appears to be functioning correctly and does not seem to be the cause of the issue. - The GPU fans spin briefly (less than half a second) during the attempted start-ups. - A visual and olfactory inspection of the GPU showed no signs of physical damage or burning. Current Situation: I am temporarily using the computer without the GPU for work purposes. However, I am concerned about the status of my GPU and the underlying cause of this issue, especially in light of the recent changes. Any insights or suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you for your time and help!
  19. Hello, I recently bought an ARGB fan kit from Cooler Master, the sickleflow 120 argb, and it has been a mess. Wasn't that familiar with RGB in general, but I also have a CPU air cooler, also from Cooler Master, that has RGB and it always worked fine with the motherboard RGB header. My first problem was that I wasn't able to chain link all conectors cause the CPU cooler one didn't come with one male and one female, just the one female to conect to the motherboard, so I coudn't wire everything to the one conector. Ok, so I bought a rbg splitter, thought that would do the trick, but as soon as I turned it on the lights were flickering nonstop, and after some research I discovered that my header was a 4-pin 12V RBG and the one I needed was a 3-pin 5V ARGB. Note that when I did this, altho they were flickering, they were also changing color. Cool, some more reaserch and I found out that a RGB converter should do the trick. Got this one: https://global.deepcool.com/products/Accessories/accessories/2021/11374.shtml Then finally, after weeks and a lot of rewiring and cable manegment, boot the computer up, and all the new fans are just partially lighting up (exacly like the image, no other colors). Note that the CPU one, that is also conected to the converter and going to the same old header, is working just fine. Another thing to note is that the orange and green one flickers just a little bit as well (brightness of the green LED in particular goes up for some quick moments). My motherboard is an ASUS Prime B450M Gaming, so I use Armoury Crate to control the CPU cooler and RAM lights, but it has literally no effect on the fans, even if I put something like a stactic color. So here is the thing, if the converter is not working, why are all of them random different colors? Why the CPU one works just fine? Did I break something? Am I missing something? My biggest fear by far is that I burned them when I put them in the 12V conector with the splitter. I haven't tried to use the manual RGB controller that comes with the fans, because I really wanted to sync with the CPU cooler, and also was dreading having to rewire again (there are so many f*cking wires omg) and didn't want to throw away the converter (imported it, so returning is not really an viable option). So if you can help me get a solution that allows me to control them from the armoury crate, that would be greatly apreciated. Thanks for reading through this mess lmao.
  20. I bought 2 Noctua NF-A12x25 450RPMS-2000RPMS for my cpu radiator and 6 Thermalright TL-S12-W ???-1500RPMS but I only have a cpu header due to my system fan header burning out for plugging in 2 fans at the same time My question is like if I plug in the Noctuas and Thermalright at the same hub with the setting set at like 50% on the bios will they run like 1000RPM and 750RPM? or when in full speed will the noctuas actually be running at full speed or be stuck at 1500 the same as the thermalright fans?
  21. So recently, I turned on my computer to find the GPU fans constantly at 100% speed. I tried to check MSI Afterburner (which is the software I use to control my fan speeds), and Afterburner said the GPU fans were running at the correct percentage. But judging by the sounds of the GPU fans, it very much was not running the listed speed. After this discovery, I updated my drivers, reset my bios settings, and reinstalled MSI Afterburner (to no avail). Specs: Windows 11 Home 22621.2861 Intel Core i5-9400f 1x Crucial CT16G4DFD8266 16 GB DDR4-2666 CL19 1x Corsair Vengance 8 GB DDR4-3200 Corsair H100i v2 70.69 CFM 1x Samsung 860 Evo 250 GB 2.5" SSD 1x Crucial (?) 250 GB M.2 (sorry can't remember the exact model) ASUS ROG Strix GeForce GTX 1070 8GB OC Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L Case Gigabyte B365M DS3H Micro ATX Motherboard EVGA 500 W1 500 W 80+ ATX PSU I believe it's an OS problem, as the fans only kick to 100% speed about a minute after logging into the computer. Thanks for any help you can provide!
  22. So lately i was having a problem, my pc woudnt turn on and the monitor showed "no display" and the mouse and keyboard light stayed off. The rest of the pc was normal (fans and LED working normally) I would need to keep turning it 2-3 times before working However recently i realized that everytime this problem happens, when the pc starts the gpu fans run for 3 sec and then turns off imemdiatly and the pc seems to fail more and more lately. If it boots up, my PC is completly normal when i use it idle or for minor tasks and can use it all day (once it even kept running idle for 72h), however, under load while gaming, sometimes after 3h and sometimes after 20min or so (i swear it seems random), my screen kinda crashes suddenly to a black screen and the screen goes "no display" again With no sound coming from speakers. When i force shutdown my PC its back to problem n°1 (I don't think it's a temp problem or anything because i noticed the problem happen while my gpu is just at 60-65 °C and CPU was at 40 °C) Idk if its the PSU or the GPU dying or maybe a dust problem ? My build if it helps : CPU : ryzen 5 2600X GPU : Zotac Nvidia Rtx 2060 Mobo : MSI B450M-A Pro Max Ram : T force Delta RGB 2x8 Go 3200 Mhz PSU : Nox Urano VX 650W 80 Bronze + Storage : WD HDD 500Go + Pny SSD 240 Go + Pny SSD 500 go
  23. Hello Guys, this is gonna be a tough one. I am facing two Problems that are probably connected by the same issue. So lets start with some Info about my System. Asus Z790 Hero, Bios 1501 i9 13900KS, direct die cooled G.Skill TridentZ DDR5 6400 RTX 4090 Strix OC Full Custom Loop 1. Cooler Master HAF 700 Controller in Back of the Case to a internal USB 2.0 onto the Motherboard. 2. Aquacomputer High Flow Next, connected to the other internal USB 2.0 header. Fan Setup Case: 2x200mm Front Fans, 2x140mm Rear Fans -> Haf 700 Hub -> PWM to CPU_FAN Fan Setup Radiators: 8x140mm Fans -> Deepcool Fan Hub (powered by Molex) ->PWM to Chassis_Fan1 Software: CoolerMaster MasterPlus (for Front Display / RGB) SignalRGB for all my RGB obviously Aquasuite to monitor my Water Temp / Flow First Problem: I am running a Custom Loop in my PC in a HAF 700 Case by Cooler Master. Couple Months after use, whenever my PC idles for too long i get some USB Connection issues with my two internally connected Devices. Now, whenever i started to idle my PC (happened only once while gaming), my Aquacomputer Device would just start connecting/disconnecting very fast a couple of times, until the sound stopped and my device was no longer visible. One Time i moved my Mouse after idle and i got an USB Overcurrent Message on Win11 and could only Reboot. First Picture: all normal after Reboot. Second Picture: After USB disconnects. Now, i already checked my Cables to the Haf 700 Controller and the Aquacomputer High Flow Next, and after a reboot it is all connected again with no issues. Normally it wouldn't be a big Problem, but i am using this Device to Monitor my Flow and Water Temperature. Second Problem: My Q-Fan Controls in Bios work for hours at best after reboot, then my Fan Speed just locks to 900RPM on Chassis_Fan1, and 600RPM on CPU_Fan. Sometimes even 300RPM for both. I have no clue which Software meddles with my Fan Speeds or why my Bios does not control the Fans anymore. I did use Fan Xpert 4 by Armoury Crate that never worked / lost control but i got rid of that Software by now. Fans are set to monitor CPU Package Temperature and Auto-Detect for DC or PWM Mode. I need to get these Speeds under Control reliably, otherwise my Water Temp rises to 45°C in Summer without me knowing. Thats why i also use my Alarm that the Aquacomputer HFN has on its firmware. Now to what i already tried: -Updating Bios to Version 1501 -Enabling High Power Energy Profile / disabling USB Suspend -Uninstalling the Cancer Armoury Crate ( with their official uninstaller ) -Disabling Tasks one by one to try and find what takes control of my Fans I cannot use the Fan Control Software on Github, because it sometimes completely freezes my PC when it idles for too long. Don't ask my why, the Problem disappered after i stopped using it. But that shows, there is some major Problem that links my two issues together but i can not find it. This is one of those things you just cannot google. This PC has been built in March by me and was running reliably for a while. Software is pretty clean, only MasterPlus was needed for the Display and Armoury Crate i uninstalled. I dont' know what to do. I need all of you Anthonys out there to find this one
  24. I have a fractal north air case with a glass panel. I have 3 lian LI uni V2 sl120 fans in the top (intake) 1 in the back(exhaust) and 2 140 mm fans in the front for intake (they came with the case) I'm also using a noctua Nh-u9s for my cpu. is that a good fansetup or should I change some things around? (I really want it to look good)
  25. for my build I decided that i'll wall mount my pc using this Thermaltake Core P3 Pro case. I was just wondering how I should place my fans to get the best cooling as possible if that even matters since it's so open? I have a radiator cpu cooler and 3 extra fans because i think that is all this case supports. If fans were placed on the back (where the wall would be since its wall mounted) it would be pretty useless right? Any help is appreciated, thanks.
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