Search the Community

Suggest me a motherboard for Ryzen 1700. Budget 15k INR ($230). I currently have Gigabyte x370 Gaming K5, but decided to change it as it's BIOS is total crap. BIOS got corrupted 3 times in this week (I don't tweak bios, so not my fault). Bought the full computer 23 days ago. Gigabyte service centre fixed the BIOS 3 times, but after running my computer for 2 to 3 hours, and then the problem starts again. There is no display output from the mobo (Only the cabinet fan and RGB of RAM was running). I am thinking of Asus x370 ROG strix. My current hardwares..:- CPU: AMD Ryzen 1700 Graphics card : Asus 1060 6GB OC Motherboard: Gigabyte x370 gaming K5 RAM: G.Skill TridentZ 3200 mHz 16 GB (8 X 2) SSD: Samsung Evo 850 250GB SATA HDD: WD 2 TB SMPS: Corsair TX 650W

Hello everyone, I have recently purchased a new Ryzen based build. And I would like to ask for your best guess or advise on what might be wrong. The problem is: I have been getting random black screen crashes. The screen goes black with "no signal". The CPU and case fans keep running, all software sounds stop. Holding power button or pressing reset does nothing, I have to turn the PSU off and on. The system is in stock settings (no OC). When does the problem occur: Randomly. Most of the times it happens when browsing the internet or at almost "idle" states. I have found that it is more likely to happen after stress testing the system (very rarely it occurred while actually stress testing). It also seems that running monitoring software like hwinfo makes it more probable to occur. I have tried: Updated bios to newest version (multiple times). Reinstalled windows. Replaced the motherboard (with the same model). Swapping RAM sticks (have not yet tried a new set of RAM). Tried not using any monitoring software (it seems, that this helps a little. I have had only 1 crash per week since not using hwinfo. Opposed to 1 crash every two days when using it. But it might be just a coincidence, because the problem does not occur evenly throughout the week). Using windows ryzen power plan. Increasing voltage of RAM and CPU manually UPDATE: Increasing the RAM voltage (problem still present) UPDATE: Increasing the CPU voltage (problem still present) UPDATE: Disconnecting and reconnecting all power cables (problem still present) UPDATE: Uninstalling AURA and AI suite (problem still present) UPDATE: Disable core boosting and SMT (problem still present) UPDATE: Setting DOCP on RAM (the lowest possible) (problem still present) System info (everything stock, no OC): CPU: Ryzen 1700X MB: ASUS ROG STRIX X370-F RAM: Patriot Viper 16GB 3000Mhz CL16 (2 sticks) PSU: Corsair RM550X GPU: NVIDIA GT710 SSD: Patriot flare 120GB SSD (System) HDD: Multiple WD blue/red HDDs CPU Cooler: Arctic freezer 33 System: Windows 10 64 bit The only thing I have changed in BIOS is enabling virtualization, because most of the time I have to work in my VM Linux environment. I have no idea what could it be. My best guess is PSU or RAM incompatibility. But before I will buy a new PSU or RAM sticks I would like to ask for your help. Thanks everyone for any advise. And sorry for my bad english.

After months of saving up money and sending back parts that didn't work (Ryzen is super picky about memory, I've learned the hard way, as explained below), my baby is finally done. CPU - AMD Ryzen 1700 @ 3.7GHz, 1.35v CPU Cooler - Cooler Master 120 MasterLiquid Lite Motherboard - Asrock X370 Gaming ITX/AC GPU - MSI GTX 1070 Ti Titanium 8G Memory - 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 3000MHz (Running at 2800MHz, more on that down below) Storage - Primary: Western Digital Black 256GB PCIe SSD, Secondary/Mass Storage: Seagate 2TB ST2000DM006 Power Supply - EVGA SuperNova 550W G2 Case - In Win 301 RGB Lighting - Corsair Lighting Node Pro Peripherals: Keyboard - Corsair K55 Mouse - Corsair M65 Pro Monitors - Two Acer 1080p Displays (The model numbers escape me at the moment, and I don't want to crane my neck to check them) So as the title states, this is a powerhouse stuffed into a rather small case. Now, it's not a Cooler Master Elite 110, but it's still a rather small space for all that power (and heat). I'll give my thoughts about each part below and the rationale for buying each one. But, if you're just here for the pictures and benchmarks, I totally understand, I like to talk a lot. Plus, pictures are nice to look at. Disclaimer: I am not sponsored by any of the vendors/reviewers in this post. Anything and everything you read is purely my opinion and these parts just happen to be the ones I bought and I ended up being happy with. Also, I don't touch on the peripherals, since they weren't my main concern. I included them anyway in case any of you were curious. CPU - Yes, yes, the Ryzen 7 1700 isn't the best CPU for gaming. "You should've gone with an R5 1600, or even better, an 8600K!" When I purchased the Ryzen 7 1700 (about two months ago), there wasn't an i5 8600K in sight. If it was, it was way overpriced on some eBay scalper's store, and I wasn't about to pay him/her $400 for it. So, I went for the 1700, confident in its ability to do the heavy lifting and some gaming tasks. I went with a 1700 because I wanted the extra power to be there if I wanted to; I occasionally edit a video here and there for friends (school projects and whatnot) and I love having a beefy processor there when needed. Sure, I'll lose a few FPS here and there in games compared to a Ryzen 5 1600 or an 8600K, but it honestly doesn't bother me too much. The Cooler Master 120 MasterLiquid Lite performs well within expectations, temperatures never got over 55 degrees while playing GTA V. I overclocked only to 3.7 GHz because I was running into stability issues. 3.8 GHz was working for a while, but when restarting my system, it failed to post and I had to clear CMOS, so dialing it back seemed to fix it. Regardless, it performs fantastically, as you'll see in the benchmark screenshots later on. Not to mention, it's an eight-core processor, and we all know the more cores you have, the bigger your penis. *Laughs nervously* GPU - The MSI GTX 1070 Ti is indeed a monster and rivals the 1080 when overclocked, and that's why I sprung for it. Why not a 1080? Well, when I bought my GPU a few months ago, prices were inconsistent (and still are thanks to cryptocurrency, I bought it just in time), so a 1080 cost around $550-600 on Amazon and the 1070 Ti cost around $475, so I figured I'd buy the 1070 Ti and overclock the stuffing out of it to get 1080 performance, and it's worked out pretty well, if you ask me. I have stock 1080 performance at around a $100 savings, and I'm rather pleased. It's overclocked with a +200MHz offset on the core and a +150 offset on the memory using MSI Afterburner. I went for the MSI variant of this card for a few reasons, but mostly because it has a beefy cooler and it looks really good, IMO. Temperatures stay well within check; they capped out at 72 degrees while benchmarking in Firestrike, and rarely reach that during actual gameplay. It's a good deal for a powerful graphics card, but I'd wait for the cryptocurrency hype to die down before buying any graphics card (assuming it does die down anytime soon). Motherboard - The Asrock X370 Gaming ITX/AC motherboard was the first part I bought for this build a few months back and was really what set the whole small form factor train in motion for me. It overclocks well and is a pretty good looking board in general. The M.2 slot on the back of the board really came in handy in my case (heh, get it, case?), due to the limited amount of real estate I have for drives. In fact, that slot was the reason why I got an M.2 SSD in the first place. If it sounds like I based most of my decisions of this motherboard, well, yes, I did. Remember, it was the first part I bought, so a lot of decisions had to be made with this board in mind. One of those decisions I should've kept in mind is the memory, as I'll explain below. Memory - "Ryzen is very picky about memory, and you need to check your motherboard's QVL before selecting memory." *Sigh* This is what I get for not listening. Now in my defense, the Corsair Vengeance 3200MHz RAM I was going to use came from my old build, so I figured why would I buy new memory if I had 16GB of perfectly good RAM right here? Not to mention, I bought this memory when it was insanely cheap, around $90 for the 16GB kit. It didn't work. For one reason or another, the system wouldn't post with the Vengeance memory. So, as you might imagine, I was deeply disappointed when I had all my parts and found out that Ryzen was all "meh" with my memory. Well, whatever, I guess, I'll get some new memory. *A few weeks later, after selling the Vengeance Memory and buying the Dominator Platinum kit* The Corsair Dominator Platinum 3000MHz 16GB kit looks amazing and performs amazing, for the most part. For some reason, my memory won't go past 2800MHz (or at least, I couldn't be bothered at the moment to push it past that speed). Pushing it to 2993MHz causes instability, from what I could tell. Back when I mentioned the system not posting with the 3.8 GHz CPU overclock, I also dialed back the memory speed, just in case. I probably could push it back to 2993MHz, but for now, I'm content with its current speed. So remember kids, check your motherboard's QVL before buying memory, or prepare to be sorely disappointed on the day you go to build your system. Storage - This is my first time with a PCIe SSD, and it's a lovely experience, to say the least. Fast load times, snappy response times, all that good stuff. Crystal disk mark shows its read speeds going over 1500MB/s and write speeds peaking at about 700MB/s. No, it's not the fastest PCIe SSD out there, but it's faster than my old RAID 0 setup with two 128GB SATA SSDs, so I'm happy. I got it off Amazon for about $95, so the lower price was also a factor in choosing this part. It's not big enough to store any games (well, maybe one, but it'll take up a good chunk of space), but it's plenty big enough for Windows and a few other programs. I plan on getting a 1TB SATA SSD for speedier storage, but for now, it does the job and does it well. Seagate 2TB ST2000DM006 - Well, there's not too much to say about an old-fashioned spinning platter disk these days, huh? I mean, it performs as you would expect for a 7200RPM disk: slow. And of course, that's what it's meant to do: be slow, but hold a whack-ton of games and whatnot, and that's exactly what it does. It doesn't show off or anything like that, no RGB (although, that would be pretty cool. Get on it, Linus). It punches in, does its job, and punches out. Simple, reliable, and huge. Hard drives aren't too complicated to choose, just pick a reliable brand, such as Western Digital or Seagate, and you're golden. Power Supply - The rationale for a hard drive is more or less the same for me when it comes to a power supply: pick a reliable brand that has enough wattage for your system. With that logic in mind, we come to the EVGA SuperNova 550W G2. There's not too much I can say about it since I'm not an expert on power supplies, but it does the job. It has more than enough power for my system and it's a reliable brand with a lengthy warranty, so I have nothing to worry about. Jonny Guru gave it a stellar review, and that was one of the key factors in my decision; it earned a perfect score, so I bought it with confidence. Not to mention, it being modular made it so fewer cables had to be shoved back into the case, so cable management was a little bit less of a hassle. Case - Now, I'll be honest. The In Win 301 wasn't my first choice in case. I originally went with a Corsair Carbide Series Air 240, since I liked the look, and it was designed for airflow, which is problematic in smaller cases. But, there was a problem. The MSI GTX 1070 Ti Titanium is a large card, but I was confident it would fit in the case. It didn't. So, some "modifications" weren't enough to coax the graphics card into fitting into the case, and even if it did, the PCIe supplementary power cables wouldn't let the front panel shut with them plugged in any way. So, I gave up and bought the In Win. Now, that's not to say the In Win 301 is by any means a compromise, because it certainly isn't. For $70, it's a stellar case, with its tempered glass side panel and rigid construction. In fact, I'm glad I went with it over the Corsair. The Corsair case feels considerably more cheap than the In Win, with its plastic panels and plexiglass window, despite costing more than the In Win. With airflow, temps did stay in check, as previously mentioned, so it ended up not being too much of a concern for me. But, if you're rocking more powerful hardware than me, airflow is definitely something to strongly consider. Speaking of hardware, if you plan on building a NAS in here, well, look elsewhere. The In Win 301 only has one 3.5 inch hard drive bay, and two mounting spots for 2.5-inch SSDs. And that's it. Of course, you could always throw a 10Gb networking card in a spare PCIe slot and connect to a NAS, but that's not exactly cost effective for most people, as you could imagine. I highly recommend getting a motherboard with an M.2 slot and utilizing that in order to save a precious hard drive slot for later upgrades. With it being a small case, cable management was a chore, as expected. Personally, I only make it look pretty if people are gonna see it; the back of the case is currently a rat's nest. I know, I know, it's a computer building sin, but time is a precious thing, and work/school is what usually consumes it (I wrote this entire thing over the span of a few days, thanks to those factors). HardwareCanucks has a great review of this case and pretty much was the deciding factor in me buying this case and is definitely worth a watch. Overall, it's a great little case and it sits nicely on the table next to my desk. This system is a good balance of gaming prowess and workstation heavy lifting. The Ryzen 7 1700 can plow through just about any workload with ease, and the MSI GTX 1070 Ti 8G can throw frames out faster than a pissed off artist. The Corsair Dominator Platinum memory is rock solid stable (I'll update this if I do get it back to 2993 MHz), not to mention is works with Ryzen, which is a plus. PCIe storage is snappy and uber responsive, and the 2TB hard drive can hold just about anything for my needs. The Asrock X370 Gaming ITX/AC was the perfect motherboard, being reliable, and a great little overclocker. The EVGA SuperNova 550W G2 will keep powering this beast of a little system for years to come, and will probably be used even after the rest of the system reaches its expiration date. And last, but certainly not least, the In Win 301 houses the hardware and looks good doing it. Sure, it's on the small side, but for its stellar looks, the $70 price tag is well worth it. This system will serve me well for the next few years and will grow along the way. It's a fantastic system and I can't wait to see what I can do with it.

I'm planning an interesting build, and I'd appreciate some tips about cases. The new box will live in our den, and its two main jobs are to run 24/7 as our family NAS and to fill in as an HTPC (attached to a 1080p projector). However, it'll ALSO have a GTX 1070 gpu for big-screen gaming. Moreover: When it's NOT being used to game or watch movies, it'll run NiceHash - I'm hoping that the mining craze will last a few more months, which should help pay off some of the components! (And if not, that's OK.) Specs: - Custom water cooling (240mm or 360mm rad) - 2-3 quiet 120mm case fans - B350 Motherboard with 16gb RAM - Ryzen 1700 (water cooled) - GTX 1070 (water cooled) - 1x Bluray DVD (because my wife still likes her DVDs ... ) - 1x 240gb SSD - 2x 3TB HDs - 550 W PSU (=room for a little OC) So ... what kind of case would you guy recommend for this project? Criteria: - Everything fits!! - Isn't so stuffed that it overheats - the thing will spend most of its time mining, and I want to keep temps down. - Cheap (max $150) - Understated looks - black metal MAYBE a window to show off custom WC - No bigger than necessary I was originally hoping for a Mini-ITX build (say, a Corsair Obsidian 250D), but I'm starting to think that an ATX mini-tower would be more reasonable. Maybe just grab a Fractal r5 and call it a day. But maybe there's something more interesting out there ...

I recently build my first PC and the process was smooth. However, there's a small issue with the CPU fan going at ridiculous speeds even though it shouldn't. The games I play aren't very demanding and my CPU never goes over 40 degrees celsius when I game, so it seems a bit weird to me that my CPU fan goes up to 1300 RPM and often 2700 RPM. I'm using the AMD Ryzen 1700 with the stock cooler and the Asus ROG Strix B350-F motherboard. I've tried manually setting the fan speed curve in BIOS to go to full speed when it's 60 degrees celsius or above (otherwise only at 35% of max speed when under). It doesn't seem to work though. I have to restart my PC in order to fix this. Is there a way to control the fans manually while you're in Windows? I can't turn off my PC every time this happens (and it happens every time I game).

Hey guys! Just asking a question following the Ryzen 7 1700 Stock Cooler the Wraith SPIRE to make sure that when I am building my PC everything goes to plan. Does the stock cooler come pre applied with thermal paste or heat sink compound. Just wanted to make sure because I was digging on the web and couldn't find much dirt on the topic. Also, with the rgb feature of the cooler is there some way I can hook two RGB components to one header on the motherboard since I was thinking of buying some LED strips to run across the bottom of the case. Thanks for the Help.

Does anyone see any obvious issues with this build besides the CPU bottleneck? https://pcpartpicker.com/user/DaCrewMaster/saved/RXtKZL

i've been keeping my eye on the 1700 for a long time now, but i found that the 1700X is selling for only $10 more than the 1700. is it worth the upgrade? keeping in mind that its cheaper for me to get the 1700 within my budget as i'll be using the stock cooler it comes with. Getting the 1700X for only $10 more seems to be a good (even if there's no different in performance between them as they can be both be OC), and i like the extra upgrades the "X" version comes with. but that also means i be need to purchase a cooler that would cost me an extra $60~$120. I just like to know other peoples opinions in this

Hello guys. I want to ask you something. Maybe here is not the place but i'm new here and i'm sorry :). So i think to build a new pc soon. it's going to be a Ryzen 1700 build, but with a B350 motherboard. I don't have plans for sli or crossfire and i think B350 chipset is enough for me. But is B350 motherboard is enough for Ryzen 7 1700 ? Thank u guys!