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Hi, I have a problem with my mouse Razer DeathAdder V3 (DAV3), while connected to a PC it won't boot to the windows. When I start the PC it will load the MB logo with single short beep, as usual, but it freezes for up to about 15 seconds and then it goes to black screen. When I start PC without mouse plugged in it will work just fine. I tried other USB ports and also other PC, but "unfortunately" it worked fine, thus I can not return or exchange the product because, obviously, they will sent it back with message: "It works for us, there is a problem on your side". Previously I had DAV1 from Razer and it worked fine. What I've tried and other notes: I've tried BIOS USB initialization set to: partial and full I've tried toggling fast boot enable/disable I've checked the boot order in BIOS (cause I saw somewhere that those mices have their own memory for profiles so I checked if it is not booting system from the mouse which is probably bs but I had to try everything) BIOS firmware is up to date (I have the latest one from 2018, its an old MB) I've tried setting the BIOS to default I've tried different USB ports (even those which work with keyboard or other peripherals) I've tried uninstalling the device driver I've tested on other PC (worked fine) I've checked the newest firmware for DAV3 - there is no new firmware for DAV3 only for DAV3Pro Before DAV3 I had DAV1 (it worked fine) My specs are: Windows 10 Pro 64 bit Sabertooth Z97 Mark 1 (BIOS version 3503, latest from 2018) Intel Core i7-4790K 4GHz 2x8GB Kingston HyperX Fury DDR3 RAM (1866MHz) NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Samsung 870 EVO 1TB SSD (1TB) boot drive Intel 530 Series 180GB WD Black 1TB HDD Cooler Master G650M (650W) Thank you for any help you provide.
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Hello, My Basilisk broke about a week ago when I turned it on while having a liquid in or around the sensor(Long story, but i have good reason to suspect the board itself is fine), I have since bought a new one but I have made it a personal project to find a way to repair the old one, mainly just for fun! I found the optical sensor I need as i suspect that is broken, I am currently waiting on a supplier to respond to my query and hopefully ship me one. What i need now is the red LED diod, Does anyone here know what kind of diod i need ? Or is it just any old red led that i can fit? Just in case anyone else is looking for the sensor i used these 2 websites to contact 2 different distributers of pixart: This website lists parts it can find suppliers with and gets you in touch with them: https://www.digchip.com/ And i used this page from the pixart website to find a supplier local to my region and contacted them on their website: https://www.pixart.com/sales_support-distribution/ I also contacted pixart directly using a company account but i apreciate that is not an option for everyone. Thanks in advance!
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So I have a Razer Blade 15 2019. The speakers haven't worked for some time. At a certain point they started sounding really tinny and distorted, then one day they just fizzled out. Since then they just make a repeated and rhythmic popping sound whenever audio output should begin (when watching media, gaming, or just adjusting the windows volume). Until recently I've ignored it because I don't use the laptop often, but now I'd really like to get to the bottom of this. I've tried updating drivers, rolling back drivers, disabling and enabling various audio devices, upgrading the operating system and even replacing the physical speakers themselves. However nothing seems to be working and now I'm at a loss. Anyone have any ideas?
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I Have an older 2019 1660ti razer blade 15 that I just decided to start using again. Every time I turn on my laptop it starts up for a second or two then shuts off. It does this in slightly longer intervals until the 5 time or so it turns on and stays on. I checked my battery and it has not expanded, also the battery seems to maintain the same charge as it did years ago and the connection seemed fine. Razer cuts off all communication once they have their money and the year warranty is up so im stuck. Is there anything else that could be causing this?
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Hi all, so I have a late 2016/2017 razer blade, model # rz09-0195, dual boot popos and win10, and all of this very recently. The battery (both cmos and normal) were bad and I hadn’t touched it for a few years, until a couple weeks ago I got an ifixit battery replacement, cmos replacement from elsewhere, and set up dual booting and such. When calibrating the new battery it stuck at 86%, and did so after being plugged in for a very long time. I wrote ifixit, they sent a replacement so I assumed that that was all, until yesterday I put in the new one and when I turn everything on it’s immediately at 86. For some reason when I switched to windows it said 87 but same basic problem. So how do I calibrate/what’s going on? tl;dr new battery won’t charge past 86% so I can’t properly calibrate it.
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Goodday! I am looking for a wireless tenkeyless mechanical keyboard with backlighting, media controls and long range (2 meters max when using it in the living room) and I need your help picking one. So far, the only keyboards I found that met my requirements are the Logitech g915 and the razer Razer DeathStalker V2 Pro. I watched reviews for both keyboards and read several threads and articles about them but I still can't decide. On the one hand, the logitech has twice the battery of the razer and can still maintain its wireless capabilities even when it's charging which would make it the only choice for me but from what I hear the keycaps are the worst and not even close to the quality standards you should expect from a 200€ keyboard. There are cases of keycaps breaking or even the letters fading out over time cause of the awful paint they used. Worst part is that it's extremely difficult to find replacement keycaps... Is the razer a better choice in my case even though the battery is smaller and it cannot be used wireless when it's charging? I am also open to suggestions so if you have something else to recommend I would be happy to hear it! Thank you in advanced, Kostas
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Hi! I bought a razer blade 14 about five months ago, (6900hx 3070ti model), and I am having extremely poor battery life. I'm talking like 1.5 to 2 hours on a full charger with low screen brightness, battery saver on, and just web browsing/microsoft word usage. I'm hoping to hear from other users of this laptop if that is normal or if something odd is going on here. When reading reviews before purchase, it seemed to me that the battery life was more like 6-8 hours when in light use. Any advice is welcome as well! Thanks
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Upon realizing all my bios settings changed upon rebooting, I learned I needed to replace the cmos battery. I have a razer blade from 2016-17, rz09-0195, and was already gonna replace the battery soon as it holds no charge (even though it’s not puffed up at all which seems strange but I’m new to all this). The main point is, how important is it to get the same battery? And like of the included markings, are they all important (i can find replacement that says ML1220 3 V pretty easy, but idk what the 76 is about). Sorry if this is a bit of a stupid question, but as I say, I’m fairly new to this. Thank you!
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I am buying a new laptop and there are two chips one with the 80HX and the other with the 50HX CPU is there going to be that much of a difference that a gamer might notice. I could all ways upgrade the ram later. Should I spend the extra money.
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I'm building a pc with a ASRock Z690 Taichi Razer Edition motherboard. I'm trying to find an rgb ram that with work with razer chroma without having to use its own software. I read that some of these might work but I'm not sure if any of these will. 32GB Kingston FURY Beast RGB 32GB XPG LANCER RGB Thermaltake TOUGHRAM XG RGB G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB All ddr5 Obviously the motherboard has razer chroma but I'm having issues getting a definite answer on the ram rgb compatability. Thanks for any help.
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- motherboard
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Just need some help for connecting a few things around. I have my PC, a Razer Seiren Mini and a DSLR Canon camera (loan from school) For a Media class, I need to make a video that shows me using an animation software with voiceover, but it will also cut to my face with voiceover. The camera has a HDMI port and a Micro USB port, so I was wondering if I can connect the Razer Seiren Mini via a Micro USB to Micro USB to the Camera and the camera to the PC, and hopefully everything will work. If not, is there any way I can do it? Its also worth noting I do not have a Capture Card. Cheers
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- razer
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For those of you who have tried anything like this, what is your experience with cooling devices and cooling cases such as the Razer cooler and Arctech line? I know they don’t make the Archtech for the 12 Pro Max for some reason, but do for the 11 and 13 lines. Really odd. I’m trying to find suitable options for my iPhone 12 Pro Max. I don’t mind if the cooler/radiator doesn’t have MagSafe as long as it has a clamp that can still allow for it to be mounted. Ultimately, I’d like to find a cooler that can also be used with a cooling case, so long as the case is thin enough to actually be effective rather than just being cumbersome. I’m a massive Pokémon Go player, and it makes my iPhone extremely hot during heavy play sessions that last hours at a time, especially during the summer in direct sunlight that can’t really be avoided. The extremely dim screen and performance drops when the phone gets to that point make it essentially unplayable until I get back to my car, dock it on the mount in front of the vent, and blast the AC on it for 10 minutes. Then I would only be able to play for another 30ish minutes before I have to do it all over again. I know that a cooler would work better without a case, but just for device protection, even if it’s really thin, I’d like to find one that’s somewhat compatible. I’ve seen several videos on these things but they’re all reviewed without a case of any kind. I suppose a bumper case would work? Any thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated!
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Hello, I've got a volume problem with my Razer Barracuda X's. The issue is that listening through the type-c dongle on my phone and it's limited at about 70% (My own estimation) of what the headphones are capable of on full volume. While my phone volume is at max and so are the headphones. This bothered me but I'm currently away at camp so I lived with it for the past 4 weeks until this morning. I had been listening for the past hour when suddenly I got my ears destroyed by the volume, seemingly "unlocking" itself and starting to blast at the volume it's supposed to. Nothing on my phone changed, the dongle wasn't moved, no software thingies to make it act this way. I enjoyed my music for another 30-ish minutes, thinking that they must have fixed themselves, somehow. I unplugged the dongle, laid my headphones on the table and went about my business. The weird thing is that, later today I pick them up and expect them to blast at full volume again but I'm met with the same 70%-ish sound and it just rubbed me the wrong way. So far I've tried everything that I could think of, tried moving the dongle around, played around with the headphone volume adjuster, trying the dongle on other phones to see if the volume would be fixed but nothing is working. (These are my second pair of Barracuda X's, the first ones I've had 0 problems with). Would really appreciate if someone has any idea of what's going on and whether or not I just got unlucky with a faulty unit. =)
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I am in need to upgrade my razer blade 15 base mid 2021 to at least 32gb memory however I am not sure of the best and most compatible competitors of the SODIMM market. I was looking at these corsair modules (as I am a sucker for brand recognition) which seems like a pretty good deal to me and am most likely to get this. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Vengeance-RAM-32GB-DDR4/dp/B08GSTF5NJ/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=64gb%2Bddr4%2B3200%2Bsodimm&qid=1674028601&sprefix=64gb%2Bddr4%2B3200%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-14&th=1 I would otherwise go for G-Skill or Kingston Fury 32gb however they're out of stock but do have 64gb in stock. If it's worth the plunder I would consider 64gb however 32gb is more than enough for me personally What are the thoughts on these particular modules and the compatibility?
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After downloading signalrgb, I've gone down a rabbit hole of ARGB and now run into an issue. I want all my fans to be controlled individually, I bought 1 razer Chroma ARGB controller all but a week ago and it works great for half of my argb devices. I've still got 6 other fans running in sync with each other off of some garbage Chinese-ium controller (ezdiy-fab White moonlight 6 pack to be specific.) I plan on splicing the argb wires in there to connect to standard 3-pin which I've checked to make sure it works. The big problem here is, they're all sold out now (or with a hefty 3x markup on ebay, if I was really desperate) and I can't find a single other product that functions similarly. Six standard 3pin argb headers being controlled via software through USB. Is there anything similar? Edit: i just refreshed amazon and they had 1 that just popped up so I panic-bought it, however, I'm still curious if there's any similar products
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I'm thinking of getting a razer blade 15 but I've heard some issues with reliability and a general dislike towards them. I'm curious if there are better options for a semi gaming/quick and dirty machine learning laptop I'd also like to be able to take this laptop places with me, so not a massive heavy laptop. 15 inches is what I think is the right size is for me. This is what I've been thinking of getting (nearly pulled the trigger): i7-11800H 8 Core (2.3GHz / 4.6GHz), 16GB RAM and NVIDIA® GeForce RTX 3070 (8GB GDDR6 VRAM) for £1,916.99 (2327.86). https://www.razer.com/gb-en/gaming-laptops/Razer-Blade-15/RZ09-0410BWA2-R3W1 My budget is probably £2000 ($2428.66). Hope someone can say why razer blades are so disliked and what I should get alternatively.
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So i recently bought a Razer BlackWidow V3 mini HyperSpeed, but when I opend it I realized it was a us layout. And since I live in sweden i changed the input settings but I still cant see the right keys (åäö) on my keyboard, this can be kinda disturbing. So I was wondering if there is anyway to buy new keycaps in swedish layout witch still are good cuality. Help please!!!
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Can I use any mouse dongle I find to program it to my mouse using Razer Synapse? Or do I have to buy a replacement specifically for Razer or buy a new mouse?
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im having a massive issue with my new keyboard a RAZER ORNATA V3, while playing games that require multiple inputs at the same time (apex legends) i have noticed a massive issue with holding down the W key and pressing the E key at the same time, given that they are on the same row of keys this could mean anything, but i JUST purchased this keyboard and have no idea the scale of the issue, any idea why its eating my input?
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so basically i got a razer cynosa V2 and my spacebar is squeaking can i remove the spacebar or nah even the color of some keys (even the spacebar) comes off so can i remove it
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Hi everyone, I’m new here so I’m not entirely familiar with the do’s and don’ts here so please don’t be too harsh on me. Just talked to Razer Support: I recently ordered a RazerBook 13 for 1899€ MSRP and was very surprised to find a retailer selling the exact same full spec RazerBook for 999€. As I’m just out of the refund period, Razer wouldn’t price match, slightly discount or even offer a voucher for the RazerStore, but I was offered a “one time exception” to return my laptop. I’m not really keen to transfer all of my data onto a new laptop and go through all the fuss again after so recently acquiring my new device (which I’m super happy with btw). So now to my question: If I ordered the exact same laptop from a local retailer and sent it in as my return to Razer, would Razer be able to notice this and in this case, is this something that would be acceptable to do, because I really don’t mean any harm and don’t want any unnecessary trouble and problems?
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Since a few days I get this really terrible echoey room sound effect. I tried disabling such things on Realtek audio program but there wasn't any option to activate any in the first place. I don’t know what to do any more please help. I'm using windows 10 home on 2021 razer blade 15 advanced (RZ09-0367)
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I installed Razer Synapse 3 for my mouse (Naga Hex 2) and keyboard (Black Widow Elite). However, it seems to cause Microsoft Edge to freeze and sometimes freeze the games for a few seconds. I decided to stop it from running (i.e., disable it via the startup and services) and all seems to be running as per normal. The only feature that was lost was the control over the RGB LEDs - which I could live with. I would like to know is there any other features that I am missing out that I don't know yet? Is Razer Synapse 3 necessary?
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Budget (including currency): $1500 Country: Canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: RTS games mainly Other details all new, from scratch my wife was amazing and let me splurge lol ryzen 5600x radeon 6700xt sapphire Razor peripherals nari ultimate headset basilisk ultimate wireless with dock gigantis RGB mousepad and chroma headset stand acer 30” curved 2560x1080p Lianli dynamic x razor case with 9 ls120 fans I really have loved learning from the LTT teams and your forums; I really appreciate your time! (The mouse dock and GPU are different in these pics but minor details)