Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'nzxt'.
-
I'm creating this for anyone else that might come across the issues I had, and the possible solution to their problems. I just built a Ryzen 7900X system with the NZXT B650E Motherboard utilizing a DDR5 32GB Corsair Vengeance kit (This kit is listed as compatible on NZXTs website). Initially it wouldn't even post. Unplugging the PSU and manually clearing the CMOS (Button on the IO Shield) allowed it to post and boot. The next issue was an almost immediate BSOD when attempting to boot into Windows 10, or while booting into a Windows 10 installation thumb drive. All devices were recognized in the BIOS, but I noticed that the default BIOS settings for ram had the voltage set to 1.1, while my kit was rated to 1.25. I bumped it to 1.3v and was able to install windows. I ran an hour long Cinebench stability test after installing all up-to-date system drivers with 0 crashes or BSOD. Given the DDR5 infancy, if you are experiencing memory stability issues for this MOBO or another while using DDR5 and are able to get the system to post and get into the BIOS, try increasing the default ram voltage, especially if the default MOBO voltage is set under your RAMs rated voltage. This is 101 troubleshooting for me as I've been building custom PCs since 2002, but I figured a quick write up might help that one lost, new to PC building, soul experiencing similar issues that can't find the solution. Relevant XKCD -
I’m upgrading the fans on my h710 and it currently has the 3 stock 120s on the front intake. I’m going to replace them with some quieter noctua fans but can’t decide the best config for my case. What do you guys run with?? -
I understand that this cpu is supposed to run hot and I would like to minimize this. I will be having this aio outside of the case (hyte y60). Just wanting a general range of temperatures to be expected and if there any better coolers (preferably in white to match the rest of the build) -
I am asking because I know Corsair makes very good PSUs, but 850 Watts seems a little over kill for what I need. A 750 Watt one makes more sense from the over kill stand point. I have heard good things about NZXT PSUs just not at as much as Corsair or Seasonic. I know absolutly nothing about Thermaltake or High Power other than they make PSUs.
-
I flashed bios to latest before starting build for 13th gen intel cpu support. The ram sticks are all from the same pack. I can run them on dual channel 3600 but when inserting all 4 it does not boot at 3600. Forces the ram to run at 2133 to boot. I checked all 4 ram sticks by using 2 at a time and checking if they run at 3600. Is there any solution or do I need a new motherboard?
-
I've been trying to find an aio which is fairly quiet and has a good cooling performance from a reliable company, the max i would be willing to spend is around £160, i only need a 240mm one and would like one with an ldc screen (not a definate requirtement) or good looking rgb. Looks are important so I'm not going with arctic's aios since i dont like the look of them. Has anyone got any suggestions? Any help is appreciated
-
I contacted technical support about a faulty pump on my AIO and overall, it was not a good experience. Very complicated procedure, too long to respond, not a clear response until I pushed a little. Overall, bad. Bu the worst part? Because I live in Europe, their warehouse or whatever here seems to be underutilized and their response is to create more (preventable, I might add) e-waste! They asked for me to pay a new unit in advance and after I receive it, to destroy my old one! I wouldn't be bothered to pay a small fee to ship it (as is the case with Corsair defective products) and they could do with it as they pleased. Refurbish, dump or I don't know what. But having customers destroy products with hammers and scissors, doesn't seem like a great plan to me...
-
Hello. I just bought NZXT C1200 Gold PSU. When I finally assembled the computer, I was very upset. This PSU has terrible coil whine noise. It is interesting that coil whine is present when the system is not under load. For example, while surfing in the browser. Another interesting observation is that if I boot Windows in safe mode - there is no coil whine. Also the whine goes away if Ienter the motherboard BIOS. Another observation, the noise is only present when the PSU is paired with my new AMD Radeon 6900 XT graphics card. If I put in my old 5700 XT video card the coil whine goes away. I tried to do software undervolt in the driver itself, it did not solve the problem. If I start a game or something else that loads the card, the problem seems to disappear, or I can't hear it because the fans on the video card are working. Also, there is a strange click when turning on and off the PSU, similar to the start of a fan. They are present both with Zero Fan Mode and without it. I don't know what to do. I will no longer be able to change the video card, because I bought it last Christmas and the deadline for returning it to the store has already passed. It was because of the new video card that I was forced to change the PSU. I can still return the PSU to the store, but I'm not sure that will solve my problem, and at this price, I can't see anything better right now with ATX 3.0 compatible. It probably won't work to exchange for the same model either, because they are no longer available.
-
I have an NZXT prebuilt that came with an i5-10400f cpu and an rtx2060 gpu. Me not being an extremely savvy tech guy, using the NZXTcam that the pc came with I noticed my mhz was bouncing between 3900mhz and 4000mhz for the cpu, and gpu at 1300mhz. I wasn't sure if the cpu at max frequency was normal or if it was good for it. Its always at that frequency even when not gaming. I could be trippin, but Ive had no issues at all with temps or performance even on ultimate settings. Cpu reaches 45-60C, and gpu never past 75C when gaming. I do have x3 120mm deepcool fans and x2 140mm deepcool fans. Then again Im not sure on the accuracy of NZXTcam. The max turbo frequency is 4.30ghz and base is 2.9ghz for my cpu. Looking it up on google it does say it has "Intel® Turbo Boost Technology 2.0 Frequency‡". Could this be why my cpu is always at 4000mhz? and is this technically okay for it? would it be necessary to make it so that it only goes that high when it needs? Thanks for any responses!
-
I just bought a new Kraken Z73 from microcenter, but it doesn’t seem to be doing its job. I went to install windows on my new build today, and when I came back to my computer it was in the BIOS because it safety shut off from the CPU getting to hot. It was idling at 55 C in the BIOS. Neither of the tubes for the AIO felt cold, and when I touched the pump, it wasn’t vibrating. I restarted the pc, and noticed when I first start the pc, the pump vibrates for a second, and then goes still. I have gone over the internet and I cannot find out what is wrong with the pump, and I’m worried I will have to get a new one. I’m using an ASUS X670E-E motherboard, with a 7900X. Things I have tried: •Reseated the SATA power connector •plugged the 3-pin pump connector to the CPU_FAN header •plugged the 3-pin pump connector to the CPU_OPT header •plugged the 3-pin pump connector to the CHA_FAN header •Set the Q-Fan control DC and PWM to Full •Reseated the pump to the CPU with fresh thermal paste
-
Budget (including currency): 1.000 EUR Country: Germany Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Games and CAD Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): existing parts: nzxt h1 v2, samsung 970 evo plus 2 tb resolution: 1080p - maybe upgrade to 1440p this year games: mostly anno 2205 / 1800 and factorio; maybe hogwarts legacy to test it out hello my fellow pc enthusiasts, i am planning to build a system after more than a decate using laptops. At the moment i am pretty certain to buy a radeon rx6700xt; for the build i am not sure about mainboard and cpu. The games i'm gonna play are a pretty cpu demanding. Thats why i am into a socket 1700 i5 13600 (K, KF or whatsoever?) CPU. For the mainboard i am thinking about an Asrock B660M-ITX/ac with DDR4 support with a 32 GB Kit at 3200 mhz. The main reason to pick intel is the futureproofness with the socket 1700 and the price compared with an amd am5 mini-itx board. Whats your opinion? Would you pick something else? Is the CPU ok and what version should i get? Thanks for all your comments and help. -
Budget: 1200 euros Country: latvia I want to upgrade my pc to this new build, but im not sure if everything works/on the highest speed. I also wanted to know if this mobo supports win11 because i saw it supported win10 but idk. Im planning to play games like god of war, rdr2, beamng. I will use this pc for streaming and gaming. I also want my build to be white but not fully. Please give me suggestions on what i can upgrade or get my budget lower, Thanks. i Dont know why but the nzxt flow case is really expensive in my country idk why but the non flow isnt. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qjn2cb
-
Hello! Sorry to bother but I'd like to seek some opinions here. Wondering if my Z73 AIO cooler is having issues and if I should RMA it. I've been using it for a year. Previously, I had a Ryzen 3600 and the temps were constantly at 70°C or more. I have since changed to 5800X3D and re-pasted with a good amount of kryonaut. The CPU temps have never gone below 50°C and goes to about 89°C while on Flight Simulator My ambient temperature is 24 degrees celsius (airconditioned room in the tropics). Not sure if it matters, I am running one 3840 x 1600 and one 2560x1440 display. What worries me is that the temps do not improve even if I were to set the CAM pump and fan curves to 100%, the 360 radiator is always cool to the touch no matter the fan/pump settings. (cooler than body temperature). According to CAM, the pump is spinning at 2300rpm at max, and I do feel some vibration on the tubes. There is an audible electrical noise even with the case closed when the pump is at 45%. Also, during re-paste, I notice there's a mark on the cold plate that couldn't be removed with isopropyl alcohol, not sure what it means. I don't think it should affect the performance, right? Feeling rather stumped, would greatly appreciate any input! Trying to avoid purchasing a temporary air cooler just to send it in for an RMA, if it turns out that this is a perfectly normal phenomenon.
-
Hey guys, I am planning on overhauling my system to the new am5 socket when the 7800x3d comes out. I’ve been looking around for motherboards that can support it but the only problem is that I have an NZXT case so the front io connecter is fixed and unchangeable. I’ve looked around for maybe some charts or something with compatibility info but I haven’t found anything. Ive been looking at mid range boards like the Rog strix b650e-f gaming wifi and the Gigabyte b650 aorus elite ax. I’ve resorted to looking at each boards specific manual to see if they might be compatible but it doesn’t look like it. Or at least I don’t think so. I don’t know as much about motherboards so any solutions here would be welcomed. Should I be looking at different motherboards, is there some kind of adapter cable I can use (nzxt doesn’t seem to have one), or is there some other solution I don’t know about? Thanks guys. -
Ok this is me... going to rant but maybe others can learn from my mistakes Long story short .. Purchased a number of Upgrades for my sons gaming setup this formed the basis for his Christmas present. we were going to build it up on Christmas Morning this Included a New motherboard to support New Processor I5-12600K , new case NZXT H510 , NVME boot drive to replace a full 128Gb SSD Sata drive and an IAO Cooler ( mainly because son wanted an AIO) limited budget so settled for NZXT Kracken M22 rookie mistake 1. Purchased through amazon.de : the ad stated suitable for LGA1700, So took it at face value, did not realize until Christmas day when we started building and found out the hard way that LGA1700 socket is different size than previous intel design and no bracket included with the cooler for the LGA 1700, to rub salt in found out that the Cooler was in fact "refurbed" (Caveat emptor) . (luckily the previous cooler master Heatsink and fan from old build could be "made" to fit ) else my son would have justifiably called Santa a few choice words with four letters in it on Christmas day they would have been fun .. not. Amazon in fairness did offer to refund the AIO but I've to ship it back to Germany..... pain, and if I had the bracket I'll be happy so Checked NZXT's website about the socket and bracket and it seems they will ship out said bracket FOC, great, however none of these in stock and had been none since the 28 December have been chasing every 4 or 5 days and now I feel like those pushy customers I used to hate to deal with.... so dilemma do I keep waiting in hope that NZXT actually ship the bracket because that what he wanted or do I just ship it back to amazon and refund.... Sharkie....
-
Hi, Recently I bought a new AIO and installed it into my system which was working completely fine before, however now it won’t turn on at all. At first I thought it might be my motherboard and I had no spare to replace it so I just decided to upgrade while I was at it, yet the problem still occurred. No boot at all only a small click on my PSU which I saw Corsair comment that it is a feature to ensure it is working. I have also tried using a different PSU which didn’t work, as well as different power cables. I also had two red lights show up on the DRAM and CPU which no longer appear after I removed 2 of my RAM sticks but still it refuses to boot other than a flash of light from the motherboards power on button. I am really stuck on what to try to find the problem. So any help would be massive appreciated. Edit: I have now bought a brand new CPU and still no boot. SPECS: Motherboard: N7 B550 CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 AIO: Kraken Z73 GPU: RTX 3070TI PSU: Corsair RM850e RAM: 4x8 DDR4 Vengeance Pro
-
Heya, I just rebuild my machine into a new case. A H510 Flow. I'm using a 280 mm AIO for my CPU. The rest is pure air. I'm using the included 120 mm fan in the read (https://nzxt.com/product/aer-f-120mm) And I took a 140 mm fan from my old NZXT Phantom 830 and put it in the top. (I've included a beatiful sketch) I'm using pretty standard fan curves, but anything close to gaming (even youtube) ramps them up like crazy, and theyre loud af. I've tried a more relaxed fan curve, but my temps suffer. I guess that the temps inside the case is way worse, because it's lacking the massive fans from the Phantom, but It still seems too bad. Any tips? Turn around the AIO and the top fan maybe? Or replace everything with noctuas? Thanks to anyone willing to give this a look Specs: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit CPU Intel Core i5 8600K @ 3.60GHz Coffee Lake 14nm Technology RAM 16,0GB Dual-Channel DDR4 @ 1596MHz (16-18-18-38) Motherboard Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. Z370P D3-CF (U3E1) Graphics XB271HU A (2560x1440@144Hz) HP E27q G4 (2560x1440@59Hz) HP E27q G4 (2560x1440@59Hz) 3071MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti (ASUStek Computer Inc) Storage 232GB Samsung SSD 840 Series (SATA (SSD)) 931GB Samsung SSD 980 PRO 1TB (Unknown (SSD))
-
So I bought a H510 and found out it doesn’t have the greatest airflow. I will be adding 3 fans to the front in addition to the 2 back fans included in the case. I was wondering if you could take off the front panel, buy a H510 Flow front panel and then put that on it to improve airflow. -
I have a NZXT X73 AIO today, but the pump makes some humming noise sometimes, is this normal? (pump speed 100% all time). The rad is in the front with the "cables" at the top, as it don't fit in the top of the case (Corsair 4000D Airflow). That said, the pump is not higher then the top of the rad, actually it's lower. I have "3 Noctua NF-A12x25" in the front on the rad as intake fans, "2 Noctua NF-A12x25" on the top of the case as exhaust, and "1 Noctua NF-A12x25" in the back as exhaust. (6.Noctua NF-A12x25 in the case, unfortunately it's not chromax). I consider to change the AIO as I don't fully trust it, and are afraid that it just stop working one day. Air cooler are more reliable. The new CPU cooler I consider is Noctua NH-U12A, as all other fans in the PC is from Noctua , but I'm afraid that the temp is going to get much higher than today? My CPU is AMD Ryzen 5600x. Is there anyone who have gone the same route? (changed from a 360rad to aircooler), and what is your experience?
-
Hey guys, I just finished up my new build and everything is working great other than my radiator fans (fans up top, see pic). For some reason, they don't seem to spin, even though it seems like they're getting power and making a dull clicking noise. The pump is working fine, just not the fans. Here's what I've done: - Confirmed SATA plugged in correctly - Confirmed pump is connected to USB 2.0 port - Confirmed pump is connected to CPU_FAN with correct orientation - Confirmed that splitter cables running from the three fans are intact and going into the pump All attempts to control fan speed via CAM software have turned up at a loss. The pump and my other two fans are working, just not these top ones. Any help?
-
Where do I connect this 3 socket cable to ??? Which one is the best choice, the CPU FAN header or the PUMP FAN header ??????
-
Purchase a kraken z53 cooler. Installed it to my ryzen 7 3700x, motherboard is a msi b450 gaming plus max, so after turning on the PC it was fine, then after windows opened the fans started to get real loud and fast then right after it gets loud and fast it gets slow and quite. Also the temperature reading on the kraken z53 is wrong and every time the cooler reading increases the fans get crazy loud. I don't what is causing this, my motherboard didn't have a 3 pin CPU OPT header so I plugged the coolers 3 socket wire to the motherboards 4 pin CPU FAN header. I'm not sure if that's causing this. But whatever it is I need helppppp!!!!! Oh also I installed the radiator inside and the fans outside on top and there's a vent with pretty big holes in between the radiator and the fans, could that cause the issue? I just don't know VID-20221220-WA0001.mp4
-
I have attached a video, but basically everything is connected correctly(i think) but the fans still dont light up, what could i try and rule out before deciding that they are defective? I have pulled the radiator out and double checked so no cables had fallen out, i have detached and reattached the RGB cable, checked the pump connection and the usb connection to the motherboard and switched PSU cable just to rule that out. the NZXT CAM software does detect the fans as rgb so this most likely must be a cable-issue right? VIDEO(with audio): https://imgur.com/a/eaKUA2U trim.A8721D4D-4CE6-46FE-97D1-A691372F4695.mov
-
Hello and thank you for your help! I've been having a problem screwing in my side panel since I've installed my 120mm rad at the exit of the case... I accidentally screw into the rad housing, and I'm worried of a potential leak? What should I do? Including photos!
.png)
