Search the Community

This is my first build and I'm building it alone, so i don't know what's happening. After i finish build my pc, i turned it on, all parts seems works but motherboard on with orange light then monitor gives no display and keyboard's light off. And i directly turn the pc off then start again, this time it goes to BIOS with message "The system has POSTed in safe mode" and i see all pc parts detected and i only can boot to windows manually from BIOS. Turns out every time i turn it on for the first time, it is always the same, all parts work with only the motherboard on with orange light, then i force shutdown and turn it on again and it goes to BIOS to boot the windows. My build: Intel I7-10700F Asus Dual EVO RTX 2060 Asus TUF Gaming Z590 Plus WIFI Corsair DDR4 Vengeance LPX PC25600 16GB (2x8) Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB Noctua NH-U9S How do i solve this? so i can boot to windows directly.

Dear LTT-Users, is it advisable to use a pressure-oriented fan as a Pusher for an AIO-radiator and an airflow-oriented fan as a Puller? In my case (pun intended) I'm planning to upgrade my fans, since I'm dissatisfied with their noise emission. I'm currently using a be quiet! Silent Loop 2 120mm in a push/pull configuration and two additional case fans (all of them being 120mm pwm). I intent to repalce my AIO-fans with a Noctua NF-F12 (93,4 m³/h; 2,61 mmH2O) as a Pusher and a NF-S12A (107,5 m³/h; 1,19 mmH2O) as a Puller. My reasoning behind of this is, that the Puller doesn't need a high static pressure since the Pusher is already taking over this task, but should rather focus on dispensing the hot air being pushed through the radiator. Also, being the actual exhaust of my case and thus the most noticeable fan due to its placement, I would benefit from the Pullers low noise emission of 17,8 dB at 1200 rpm. But this is just the reasoning in my head. Am I possibly bottlenecking my airflow with this and/or even generating oscillations with those differently layed out fan blades? Is it better to use an NF-A12x25 (102,1 m³/h; 2,34 mmH2O) or the same NF-F12 as a Puller as well? My goal is to get the best Cooling/Noise-Efficiency out of my system. Thanks in advance!

Summary Noctua has unveiled a thermal paste guard to prevent excess thermal paste squeezed out from getting in between the notches of the IHS on AMD's new socket AM5 CPUs. This is simply a molded plastic cover that sits on top of the retention bracket that reduces the chance of thermal paste from seeping down the IHS between the notches where it can get messy. Will be available as a separate set and Noctua's NT-H1 and NT-H2 3.5g thermal pastes. The kit comes with 10 of Noctua's cleaning wipes. Quotes Prices start at 7.90 EUR/USD for the NA-TPG1 kit with 10x NA-CW1 cleaning wipes. The NT-H1 3.5g and NT-H2 3.5g has a separate model, NT-H1 3.5g AM5 Edition and NT-H2 3.5g AM5 Edition respectively, start at 9.90 EUR/USD for the NT-H1 kit and 13.90 EUR/USD for the NT-H2 kit. My thoughts Interesting to see Noctua reveal such a product considering Intel's HEDT has similar notches (no SMDs, so maybe they want to prevent the paste from getting in between them?), albeit bigger IHS and didn't have to have a guard in place for their products. I just don't think it's necessary and seems gimmicky for a product like this to come from Noctua. For those that apply a lot of thermal paste, here's a product for you! Sources https://noctua.at/en/noctua-presents-na-tpg1-thermal-paste-guard-for-amd-am5

How it started... When I got this Mainboard from a otherwise broken Dell Laptop, I initially wanted to hide that under a desk as kind of a slim invisible PC. It´s not new, not overpowered or something like that, but it sports a Core i7-8850H with 6 Cores /12 Threads, 2666 Mhz DDR4 Memory - so it´s perfectly fine as a daily driver for Web and Office Stuff... Well... as I´m currently kind of obsessed with WLED (which is a free Firmware for cheap ESP8266 / ESP32 Microcontrollers that can control hundreds of individually adressable RGB and RGBW LEDs) I decided that I rather want to have some RGB added, which makes no sense if the whole thing is under a desk... So I kept the Idea of extra cooling with 2 self adhesive coolers on top of the Heatpipe + 2 Noctua 40mm 5V Fans, added a Backplate for Wall-Mount and 52 LEDs in Total. The Soldering: The ESP32 Controller and the plugs for the LEDs had to go into some kind of housing, so I designed and 3D-Printed a quick' n'dirty Case solution that goes on the back of the Wall-PC. I´m not really that much into soldering and attaching all the LED Channels to the controller GPIO was hard enough so luckily I had this 4 to 1 Adapter I could just stick the cables into.. I later added a 7th LED Channel for an LED Ring under the CPU Fan - maybe to show CPU Temps or load with corresponding colors? Test-Fit... That begins to look like ... well.. a .. Computer of some sort.. :D. Since the Noctua Fans are 5V instead of 12V I can power them by USB, I just add a mechanical Switch to just turn them on when needed. In Case anyone wondering what those Drives are... Top Left: 1 TB WD Blue M.2 SATA SSD - interestingly the Mainboard supports using an M.2 SATA SSD in the WWAN Slot (although it should normally be a 2242 length one). Bottom Right: That´s what a 2 TB Samsung 860 Evo 2,5" SSD looks like without the Case. Bottom Left: Samsung PM9A1 NVME m.2 SSD 512 GB Where´s the Power Button??? OK here comes the "if it works it can´t be that stupid"-Part... There IS a Power-Button, But it´s on the other Side of the Mainboard, just left of the LAN-Port. So bending the Mainboard to reach it was not a solution. and I didn´t want to print any kind of mini rocker switch... So Step one: Set the PC to Wake on AC in the BIOS... So i now turns on automatically when it has power... Call the Assistant... OK here comes the weird part.. I´ve setup the WallPC to turn on via Wake on LAN as well. And since I use Home Assistant (on a Raspberry Pi4) for my Smarthome anyway incl. some Wireless Zigbee Switches to turn on some LEDs -> Now one of these Switches turn can on the Lights at my desk with a single touch and when I press it for 2 Seconds it will turn on the WallPC. Or I can press the button on the Home Assistant Dashboard in the App of course.. What about the LEDs then? For anyone who doesn´t know WLED - You can control the LEDs via WLAN with a browser or an app, you have 100+ animated Effects, you can define Segments, Preset, Timer etcetc.. AND - there is also a Home Assistant Integration. Not that spectacular yet...but.. there is a Home Assistant Agent for installing on Windows, that can forward Information about the PC to Home Assistant via MQTT, which means you can automate some stuff... For starters I have set up a sensor to tell my Home Assistant the CPU-Load (not in Realtime, update every 5s) of the Wall PC, which then can be used to switch the LED Presets. The Picture above was taken during a Cinebench Run. So the WallPC tells Home Assistant: CPU-Load above 80% -> WLED loads the Preset "RED" for the Leds. When it´s below 80% and above 30% ist will load the Preset "Yellow" and below 30% it will load the Preset "Green". Looking forward to play around with even more settings.. I could e.g. use the "Red, Yellow, Green" for Free Disk Space for the Drives and color the Edges of the Frame respectively... Or I can let all the LEDs blink like fireworks If I get the E-Mail that my LTT Screwdriver has been shipped... Let me know if you like it - or if you have any overclocking Idea.. As the Dell Latitude Mainboard has zero settings for that - I started to play around a little with throttlestop - the Maximum I could achive was a 3 GHz AllCore at steady 75 degrees celsius with my added Noctua Fans. So it´s rather Throtteling due to Power not Temps.. And of course if you want to know any more detail, just ask - I just didn´t want to add a loooong boring article here.. Regards from Germany!

Budget (including currency): $1100 USD Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: System mainly geared towards 3D modeling and drafting (my degree/ job) but I do also game Programs - AutoCAD Inventor - CAD Mechanical - Solidworks - Fusion 360 Games - GTA - BO3 - Sprocket - Other AAA titles Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Note: Resolution on my best monitor is 144hz at 1080p I don't care about RGB stuff, I'm most concerned about it al running within an acceptable temperature. I already have: GPU: EVGA 3070 PSU: Gigabyte GP-P850GM All Peripherals and Storage, as well as a wifi card Proposed Parts List: CPU: i7-1200kf RAM: DDR5 5600 32 Corsair Vengeance MBD: Asus Prime Z690-P CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 chromax Case Fan 1: NF-P14s x5 Case Fan 2: NF-P12s x1 Case: Celesta 340f Peripherals: Already have all that I need. Upgrading from: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X RAM: DDR4 32GB 3000 PSU: 650W Questions: Is this a sensible build in general? Is this a good build for both CAD and some gaming? If not, what should I change? Is there anything I'm missing? Is it a good idea to upgrade to DDR5 for future proofing? Did I go overboard on the case fans? Is the AZZA Celesta 340f a good case? Is the NH-D15 enough to cool a 12th gen i7? If I have a NZXT H510 Flow, would that be enough cooling paired with the Noctua fans? Are there any apps I should install to monitor my pc, or that are good to have? If anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears, as this is my first pc build. A link to the Google Sheets I used https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/11nYEl3sLiKN6RytecBiWaWUYyO4fr2FNpnwZJX6g4ic/edit#gid=0

I'm working on a new build with the following relevant components: MSI B560I mini-ITX motherboard Intel i5 11400 Noctua NH-L9i I installed the processor without issue. For several days I have been trying to mount the cooler to the motherboard without success. I can screw in three of the screws, but the fourth one will not bite into the radiator mount. I can make it bite by tilting it at an angle, but it only goes in about an eighth of a turn. I turn each of the only screws about a quarter turn, just enough for them to hang on but still leave flexibility to get the best possible fit. The instructions do not mention any particular orientation being necessary, nor do most videos demoing the install. This video does say that the bracket is not square and can only be installed one way. I have tried all four possible orientation and they all present the same problem. After careful inspection, it appears that two opposite corners of the mounting bracket are too far apart. Or possibly the motherboard screw holes are too close together. If the upper right screw will not go in, I can take the lower left screw out, then the upper right goes in easily, but the lower left will not go back in. If I rotate the radiator, the problem corner travels with it. The problem screw(s) occur at the same location relative to the radiator, but differently relative to the motherboard. Here are three photos of my attempt to attach the radiator with the fan cable in the top right corner. (I realize the fan can be moved, but it's a good way of keeping track of the orientation if you do not move the fan) You can see the screw in the lower left corner is not aligned. Here is a side profile showing the same screw on the left Here is a top view without the screw, the hole seems clearly off by a couple millimeters. If I rotate the fan assembly so that the cable is at the bottom right, you can see the problem screw moves with it. Now the bottom right screw is misaligned. Side view And lastly the top view, showing the holes At this point, I see four possibilities. 1) The NH-L9i is not compatible with this motherboard or processor without an adapter kit. Noctua's site appears to list both the processor and the motherboard as compatible. Perhaps I have misunderstood something? Or maybe the site is wrong. 2) I am being silly. Maybe I have missed something simple. Maybe I am not screwing the screws in correctly. Maybe the last screw not being aligned is not a problem and I should just force it in. Or any number of other possible silly mistakes. 3) The NH-L9i has a manufacturing defect. Perhaps the brackets are actually a few millimeters too far apart, more than they should have been. If I could rule out the other two possibilities, I should probably contact Noctua for a replacement. What would I need to send them to prove that a defect is present? 4) The MSI B560I has a manufacturing defect. Perhaps screw holes in the motherboard are misaligned. This seems less likely than (3) based on my testing, but I may not be reasoning properly. In this case, I'm not sure who I should contact for a replacement. I purchased the motherboard from Micro Center. I don't live near a Micro Center, but I had a separate travel destination that brought me near to one temporarily, so I picked it up there. I could try contacting MSI directly, but I'm not sure how far I would get. And lastly, what would they need from me to prove that the board is defective? The purpose of this post is to check if (1) or (2) is true and fix the problem. Or, if those are ruled out, determining who I should contact for a replacement and how to do that. Thank you!

Funny how things go sometimes, I was working on my own all-noctua build PC as I just saw the latest video on the LTT channel so I thought I'd share mine here. I wish I had the same kind of tooling to do the same king of mods on my motherboard but I kept things simple and only painted the case itself. The case itself is a bequiet pure base 500 with a truckload of NF-12x25 all around to keep the 9900k at reasonable temperatures.

Hey guys, I have a rack at home and would like to add cooling. There are several solutions out there, and the one that I might get is this one: https://lanberg.pl/en/produkt/AK-1503-B Based on the documentation, it shows an airflow of 46 CFM/per fan. I was wondering what if I use the Noctua's NF-A14 industrial ppc 24v 3000 q100 ip67 PWM. Those fans seem very powerful, but I have no idea how I would connect them to AC power from the rack. Is there a 1U fan tray solution in which I can mount my fans? I guess it has to have an AC/24V DC converter as well to power those fans. Thank you in advance if anyone can point me in the right direction

Hello, Finally i buy the Torrent Case from Fractal and start the build i would like to add a rear fan to the case but can you tell me if An 1500rpm rear fan will pull off the air or i need to chose a 1700rpm fan ? Also Fractal says that the rear fan chasis hole pattern is 125x125mm must of the noctuas are 124,5x 124,5mm, that will fit ? Thanks for your time and advice

Hey there dear LTT community. Im here to ask something more broad. Id like to know if you got any tips for me to cool my PC ( CPU in my case) better in summer especially since when im gaming and have something else in the background opened i keep hovering at around 78 - 82 degrees When I uncap my FPS in games it goes to 83-84ish and when Windows decides to do their random background bamboozling it loves to spike to 87-90 ish. I got myself a new CPU and as its on the powerful side I can assume it has higher temperature than my older ryzen 5 2600x. Now my question is how can I increase my cooling performance? Outside its blazing hot temperatures as well as inside so outside of a air conditioning what else could I do? I have a feeling my box could take more intake fans I assume? Would that help? Here s my set up with current cooling as well. Case: Phanteks P400S Eclipse with tempered glass ( the box is with a full metal panel front not the one thats perforated) - Case fans are stock 1 in front 1 in the back CPU - Ryzen 9 5900x - cooling - Noctua NH - D15 1x 165mm fan and one 120mm fan ( the one that sits on top of the RAMs.) GPU - Nvidia MSI RTX 2070 ( normal version not the Super one) Motherboard - Asus Rog Strix B450 E- Gaming PSU - EVGA supernova 750 g3 RAM - 4x Corsair 8 GB DDR4 3000 MHz CL15 Vengeance LPX I hope I havent forgotten anything vital and hope for some help! ( Id like to avoid watercooling though as I probably will do a major overhaul of my PC in 2-3 years but generaly not a fan of it I guess. Just needed a more powerful CPU as it was bottlenecking my GPU)

Hi there! So I only have one fan header on my mobo for some case fans. I'm going to put some Noctua P14's redux's and P12's redux's in my case. Maybe 2 P14's and 1 P12 for the time being but I wanna add more in the future. But I need a fan hub for them and I'm not sure what the best fan hub I can use is for the Noctua ones. I was looking at the Artic one but it says something about only affecting the first fan slot?

A new build with classic components from MSI, Noctua and NZXT featuring the MSI P45 Platinum with a Q9550S paired with top-of-the-line 4GB 1150MHz DDR2 Reapers and the MSI GTX 465 Golden Edition, in an NZXT S340 Elite with Noctua fans. I decided it was time for a Copper/Brown/White theme and so I put some old hardware to use, including the beautiful P45 Platinum which I pulled from a scrap bin. This is the spiritual successor my original 3-Way SLI GTX 465 rig, but now focused on the ultimate GTX 465 Golden Edition from MSI. This card retains its original firmware and is still a GTX 465, not a GTX 470. Full specs: Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550S MSI P45 Platinum (saved from scrap) OCZ Reaper DDR2 1150MHz MSI GTX 465 Golden Edition 1GB Fermi (not flashed) NZXT S340 Elite EVGA 750 G2 80+ Gold Samsung 850 Evo 120GB Cooler Master Seidon 240M (it has LGA775 support) Noctua NF-S12 fans Windows 10 Pro This intention of this build was to relive the GTX 465 experience in 2022 and play old titles that have been sitting in my library forever, such as Far Cry 1 and 2, Just Cause and other classics. It's admittedly tough going back to a 1GB Fermi card after so many years of using my R9 290, R9 380 underwater and an RX 480 in Chile. I hope this quick build log tickles the fancy of the longtime supporters of the original 3-Way SLI rig, namely, @TheSLSAMG@xTrekStorex @vinyldash303 @JoshM@flibberdipper and others whose names have changed since 2014.

so i have a mini itx pc planning on buying a low profile cooler Noctua AM4 to pull air and throw it at the psu fan and then that exits out the back System setup 140mm fan intake from top with noctua pull configuration to the (seasonic sfx800) psu fan which then exhaust out the rear cpu 5600G question is, is this alright for the psu?

Hi. I recently "upgraded" my system from an i5-4460 to a Xeon E3-1230v3. The upgrade was going majorly well except for the fact that the Intel stock cooler would make the CPU reach 90 degrees Celsius or higher, sometimes throttling when going over. I invested in a used Noctua NH-U14S, and it was like magic how it cooled down my temps to 60 degrees max. The problem I'm having is that I benchmarked the cooler's performance using CPU-Z's Stress and Bench settings, and the CPU sticks to 3.5Ghz at idle and at load (Base clock is 3.3, Turbo is 3.7). Single Thread Stress also for some reason only reaches 3.5Ghz max. But, when I benchmark the CPU using Cinebench R23 and Blender Benchmark, the CPU goes to 3.4Ghz for 5 seconds, and then immediately sticks to 3.3Ghz for the entirety of the benchmark, going back to 3.5Ghz when done. The temps are fine at 40 degrees at idle and 60 degrees max under load. I have no idea why this is happening. I've tried turning off Intel SpeedStep Technology and the problem still persists. My power plan is at High Performance, but changing it to Balanced doesn't really change the behaviour of the CPU sticking to 3.5Ghz at idle. Any help? Edit: Prime95 torture test also has the same behaviour. CPU downclocks to a strict 3.2Ghz while torturing, and goes back up to 3.6/7 when stopped. Motherboard: GIGABYTE B85M-D3H Rev. 2 CPU: Intel Xeon E3-1230v3 RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB DDR3 @ Single Channel (Broke a pin on my motherboard that doesn't let me use the other slots) Graphics Card: MSI Gaming X Nvidia GeForce GTX 1650 Super 4GB PSU: Included Cheapo 500W PSU with the Case: Cooler Master Force 500

Budget (including currency): 1.5-1.6 Lahks INR Country: India Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Valorant, AAA titles such as Witcher, RDR2, Elden Ring etc. Would also like to stream/use chrome/discord while playing. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I have a 1080p 144Hz monitor which I plan to use for a while a later maybe 1-2 years upgrade to 1440p/4k. I'd like to play at 60fps above and stream accordingly. I have a keyboard and mouse as well. Parts List : Parts That I've already bought/Had from before : Intel i5-12600k MSI MAG Tomahawk Z690 - DDR4 ram Gigabyte AORUS 850W Gold+ PSU 1TB Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus Parts that I would Ideally want: Coolermaster TD500 Mesh ASUS ROG STRIX 3070 TI or ASUS TUF Gaming OC 3070 TI 32 GB Ram - Either 3200Mhz or 3600MHz would work Noctua NH-D15 Chromax Hi I'm planning on doing my first PC build in the next 2-3 of weeks or so. After using a laptop for the last 4.5 years which has served me well, I want to upgrade to a PC as I finally can. I've done a decent amount of research on what parts I want/need for my use case. My use-case is regular gaming with Valorant, AAA titles like Witcher, RDR2, Genshin, Doom, Sekiro, Eldenring, and light streaming. My reason for the CPU/Motherboard/Ram combination is to allow me to run chrome/discord/OBS in the background without having any issues while playing a AAA title. Now my main question is about the cooler. Everywhere that I've found the cooler online, the specifications mention that the cooler isn't compatible with the LGA1700 socket which is what I need. After looking around a bit, the Noctua website mentions that they either have hardware for LGA 1700 included in orders post 01/2022 but none of the online retailers mention this. Noctua also mention that they provide another mounting kit for the coolers purchased before this free of cost to people (NM-i17xx-MP83 for this cooler) but I'm not sure if they provide this in India as I can't find any official retailer for them. I would be very grateful if someone who has bought this in the last couple of months with a 12th gen CPU can share their experience with this. Another question I had about the cooler was whether I'd be able to fit the GPU in the topmost slot of the motherboard as the cooler is quite big. If not, I'd like some suggestions on coolers I can buy which would be a good replacement for this. And finally, a small question on which of these two I should choose: ASUS ROG STRIX 3070 TI or ASUS TUF Gaming OC 3070 TI? Would it really make any difference? The budget is not much of an issue, currently, I'd be spending around 1.5L given this parts list (If it looks less, it's because I've had some parts for quite some time and I'm not counting those). I don't mind putting in another 5-10k for a different cooler or GPU which would go with the rest of the list. I'd also appricieate any case compatibility issues anyone might be aware of. Thanks Thanks in advance to anyone who provides any advice. Please feel free to ask questions you might have to help me with this, I'll reply as soon as I can.

User of the Noctua NH-D15: How much clearancewould you recommend between the cooler and the panel? How has been your experience with this cooler? I'm looking for a case. I've been checking the 4000D, the H500P mesh, the H500M... and i don't want to spend more than $150. What say you???

Budget (including currency): >or= to 2000 usd Country: usa Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: school work, flight sim, blender, vr, elden ring, r6s Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): hi ive been set on using only noctua fans for this build and was wondering if i should either get a non noctua gpu and replace the fans via jank or get the noctua gpu used. also on a scale of meh to you will most likely die how dangerous is replacing a psu fan. PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Mgrxv3 CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($247.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9x65 33.84 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.44 @ Newegg Sellers) Motherboard: Gigabyte Z690I AORUS ULTRA LITE DDR4 (rev. 1.0) Mini ITX LGA1700 Motherboard ($140.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($79.98 @ Amazon) Storage: Sabrent Rocket 4.0 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($79.98 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus Noctua OC GeForce RTX 3070 LHR 8 GB Video Card ($749.99 @ B&H) Case: Lian Li Q58 (PCIe 4.0) Mini ITX Desktop Case ($139.99 @ B&H) Power Supply: Cooler Master V850 SFX GOLD 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($144.00 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua A9 PWM 46.44 CFM 92 mm Fan ($18.95 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua A12x15 PWM 55.44 CFM 120 mm Fan ($21.95 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua A12x15 PWM 55.44 CFM 120 mm Fan ($21.95 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua A12x15 PWM 55.44 CFM 120 mm Fan ($21.95 @ Amazon) Monitor: LG 27GQ40W-B 27.0" 1920 x 1080 165 Hz Monitor ($169.00 @ Walmart) Keyboard: Mad Catz The Authentic S.T.R.I.K.E. 2 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($53.59 @ Amazon) Headphones: Mad Catz F.R.E.Q. M Headset ($37.75 @ Amazon) Total: $1987.49 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-01-09 21:12 EST-0500

I was thinking of getting either the Corsair ICUE H170i ELITE LCD vs Noctua NH-D15S but didn't find thermals comparing them directly, I have 13700k cpu, and want it for gaming as well as video editing rendering Anyone know of any thermal charts comparing them, or do u recommend one over the other and why? Should I instead get the iCUE H170i ELITE CAPELLIX version with no screen? Any other recommendation is welcome Please note that the Corsair I'm looking for is the version with the screen, and it is different from the non-LCD screen version (iCUE H170i ELITE CAPELLIX) which has copper and different fans, whereas the LCD screen version has aluminum and don't know if fans are better or worse, any info on this is welcome.

I want to do the same color scheme on the same type of case as seen in the LTT Noctua PC build. If anyone can tell what kind of paint and color to buy for the same look it would be very helpful. Edit: I found the correct colors. The tan is rustoleum Ivory Silk Satin paint + primer. The brown is rustoleum Flat Red primer.

So I'm trying to make my PC as quiet as possible as the annoying fan noise ramping up and going down when opening lots of Google Docs and other programs gets annoying . I'm only looking to replace the fan on my Hyper 212 Black rather than replace the whole cooler. I'm running a Corsair 4000D Airflow with 1 Artic P12 in the front with the stock Corsair fan, another Artic P12 in the back of the case replacing the second Corsair stock fan, and the Cooler Master Silencio on the Hyper 212 Black. I'm debating between getting another Artic P12, or a Noctua P12-Redux, or a Noctua NF-F12. I was planning on getting one of the fans from Microcenter with the $25 coupon so the Artic P12 and Noctua P12-Redux are essentially free and the NF-F12 is ~$10. Which is the best choice and how necessary is it to set a custom fan curve(or use the Asus BIOS EZFAN optimizer thing) to get the least noise during mostly light workloads?

I've put together my ultimate build. Will last me a long time I think. 5800X3D Noctua nh-u12a air cooler (extremely recommend this cooler, does the job and then some) Asus Rog Strix X570-E gaming wifi ii Asus tuf 3080 G.Skill 3600 cl14 ram pack of 2x16gb sticks 6x ppc pwm nf-f12 120mm 3k rpm noctua fans 2x nf-f12 pwm 120mm 2k rpm noctua fans 2x nf-A4x20 ppc pwm 40mm 5k rpm noctua fans Lianli mesh 2 case Silverstone 850w psu Curve Optimiser in bios -30 all cores BCLK clock of 102.85 most games 50-60 degrees intensive games get up to 60-70 degrees This has been a gradual build, initially put together about a year ago, have now finished it to what I finally wanted. Have also OC'd 5800X3D with a 102.85 busclock (BCLK), resulting in a consistent 4577mhz OC aswell as undervolted it with 1.19v. With sporadic 4677mhz showing up...sometimes. not sure what causes that, but oh well. Bigger number better!! Bahumbug to AMD who says this cpu isnt Overclockable hahahahaha. Edit: Have added pics of pc off, for better detail of parts and better clarity with no rbg.

Summary According to a recent announcement, Printables has teamed up with Adafruit, Noctua, Cooler Master, and other top brands to offer official replacement parts and models. This is great news for 3D printing enthusiasts who have struggled to find high-quality, reliable options in the past. Not only will these partnerships make it easier to find the parts and models you need, they will also help reduce waste. Instead of tossing out a broken piece or an outdated model, you'll be able to simply print a new one using the official designs provided by these brands. Sources

I'm looking for some advise. I am replacing the stock 92mm exhaust fan on my pc case. I'm trying to decide which would be best. I'm looking at either the Noctua NF-A9 PWM chromax.Black.swap, Premium Quiet Fan, 4-Pin (92mm, Black) which has 7 blades Or the Noctua NF-A9x14 HS-PWM chromax.Black.swap, Premium Quiet Slim Fan, 4-Pin (92x14mm, Black) which has 9 blades. The pc case in putting it in is an Asus Rog Strix G15-CF. I'm not sure if the blade count will help with exhaust to remove increase air for in this case since they seem to be identified fans other than the blade count. Any help will be greatly appreciated.