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Hello im a new builder and want to build my first build for around €2000. Im thinking about a cooling solution and cant decide between a noctua NH-D15 or a Corsair H150i triple fan rad. If you guys have any other solutions please let me know also what do you guys find a good case for around €100 with good clearance for the big cooler and wiring. Sorry for the read and the bad english. am new to the forum thanks for anyone that responds.

Hi all, I'm planning our my first build, which will be ITX, but I have a silly question. Fans! I have 5 fans in my build, buy my motherboard only has two headers. So I can get Y-splitters, but then I don't know which fans should be linked in terms of control slaving? It seems like it makes sense for the CPU cooler to have it's own control, but then that would leave just one header for the other 4 fans? How can I sort this out? Here's my part picker list: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/gmYtDx For awareness, here's my goal/inspiration: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/4m8MnQ Thank you Budget (including currency): £1,500 ish, but can flex a lot Country: UK Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Primarily gaming (Total War, Civ, WoW. I'm more of a 4x and RTS man) Other details: Buying everything fresh. Monitor will be my old 1080p 60hz one for a while, but I'll upgrade later to 1440p (I am waiting on a new desk)

I recently checked my Amazon credits and saw I had enough money to buy R6, so I basically got R6 for free. I wasn't aware that the digital key Ubisoft sells is Uplay only, before that I thought Uplay is just a DRM which requires Steam for games to run and NOT A STANDALONE GAME DISTRIBUTION SERVICE. Silly me, now I can't even remove R6 from Uplay library and if I buy R6 via Steam Uplay is just going to make a duplicate version of the same game. Ubisoft customer support aren't helping either. I asked for them to transfer R6 to my burner account and I still got no reply. I wonder if transferring R6 will actually remove it from Uplay library. I like Steam "what's new feature" which Uplay doesn't have. Also does anyone have any experience regarding Uplay or the situation i'm in currently, and how many R6 players actually use Uplay version of this game?

Budget (including currency): 1300 $USD would be a rough upper limit for the build price Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Games, Scientific, General Web browsing. Games I'm not looking to get 240 fps at 16k or anything ridiculous I do play FPS/Triple A titles often enough that my poor laptop (Dell inspiron 15) doesn't get frames or quality well. a base line ~60 fps for games like Apex Legends at high/medium video settings would be nice. Ray Tracing is cool, but probably out of budget Scientific Currently at University, work load is increasing as well as cpu load for HW and Research While researching topics, I'll have at most (simple) python code (single threaded mostly) 20+ tabs for reading and citing papers Google/Excel spreadsheets (I use firefox) General I'm on my computer a lot, I need something that won't get tired after a few hours of my "Scientific" work to then not run games in my downtime. (common occurrence for my PC to just lose up to 30 frame, max 50, after a long day) Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): PC Picker List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MQJrb8 Very open to suggestion on everything. GPU is pretty over the top for me, not sure if I want to keep that one Could spend GPU money on better CPU? one 16 stick of Memory or two 8 sticks? Chose motherboard for upgradability (I think), dont have last gen Ryzen for B450 Bios update Preferably AMD CPU (again not looking for the greatest performance in games, just a bit nicer than what I have) Am I missing parts??? (CPU cooler is missing bc I have an oooollld one that might work) Case is over the top, but I like the look and want it to last a long time and possible upgrades Storage is probably enough with my choice and what I already own I'm more so looking at bang for my bucks rather than raw power. Existing peripherals (Not looking to upgrade these anytime soon) Logitech Mouse and Keyboard. BenQ 4k@60hz Monitor (Which my laptop can't take advantage of) Nice Head set I have a 1 Tbyte HDD and a SanDisk Z400x M.2 128 Gbyte SSD No I don't know the HDD, came with Laptop Will likely put both in new PC if I can or at least the HDD for my games and Documents I use Windows (probably a duh), but I'm very interested in learning Linux. May run a duel boot system.

When I initially installed Windows I disabled every privacy settings it wanted me to activate but last night when I logged in I saw this popup which resembled a lot to those privacy settings. I was extremely tired to process all that info and so I just clicked "Let's go" and later came to my senses then skipped every services it wanted me to activate. After waking up today i'm doubting myself whether I actually skipped these services or not. I just want to know what changes does these options do if they were to be activated and a way to disable them. So far I only found "Setup Windows Hello" and "Link your phone" in settings and can confirm they were inactive. I also searched Office 365 in start menu but windows couldn't find it, so I hope its not active as well. (Please can someone confirm it for my sanity) As far as other services I have no clue what they do and as I mentioned above, please can anyone help me find a way to disable them if they were to be active. I will appreciate every help you guys suggest me.

I'm gonna start by saying I'm pretty much a newb when it comes to networking, so please excuse any stupid questions if they come up. So, I was recently made aware of the pretty sweet offer Huawei/Honor has for their Honor Router 3. But, as it turns out, my "router" (Speedport 3) I got from my ISP (Telekom Germany) is actually a router/modem combo unit, so I can't just replace it with the Honor router (correct me if I'm wrong?). Now my question is, would it be feasable and/or overly complicated to have both routers on the network? (My guess would be that I'd have to turn off the Wifi from one of them (preferably the ISP's one) for it to work, but I'm far from sure)

I haven't built a pc since the 486. I wanted to pursue a career in computers and graphic design, but my Dad thought that was BS. So here I am at 42 and building my first real PC. I am so new to all this stuff any help is appreciated. I have been watching a lot of the LTT videos and have been learning a ton. Never really joined a chat forum before. All I can say is that I wish I would have gone with AMD looking at their new tech and the launches of new ryzen chipsets and big navi are just around the corner not to mention the overclockability support for the CPU and higher memory frequencies. Ughhh, Intel where have you gone? Anyways, glad to be here, forgive my lack of tech lingo, it has been a long time! J

Exactly when Nvidia driver download hit 100% my router went off and so I had to switch to mobile wifi for the driver to done downloading and unpacking everything. I'm worried that this somehow corrupted Nvidia driver. So far I see no difference and also my benchmark results seems to be same or even better in some cases. Should I be worried about this? Does Geforce Experience tell if downloaded driver is corrupted or not?

I have been tasked with creating 3 parts lists for my computer class. We plan on using the rough design attached (it's the logo of my school). A raised, open glass will cover a piece of steel or carbon or maybe wood (we haven't decided yet, we're still talking to other classes about materials). I have completed those three part lists and I believe that I've included everything and made smart decisions, but I have precisely zero experience with watercooling, so I figured I'd ask you kind folks to help look the lists over and make sure I've not forgotten anything or done something stupid. I've stayed away from mixing metals; all my watercooled parts are either copper or nickel-plated copper. I've also kept all the fittings to G1/4" because that seems like the standard and is what most things came in. We plan on overclocking the CPU and GPU, and, from what I read, those motherboards were average overclockers for their price points. Thank you in advance to anyone reading or helping, and if I've forgotten to include something here or on the lists please let me know. Most expensive -- https://pcpartpicker.com/user/N3v3r3nding_N3wb/saved/TDzZRB Middle -- https://pcpartpicker.com/user/N3v3r3nding_N3wb/saved/svp3bv Least expensive -- https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LXTnNQ Wall PC Design.pdf

Hello, recently my old power supply died on me and the replacement EVGA Bronze BQ 650w has a fan that now whines like a banshee. Seriously this thing messes with my tinnitus. I am a complete newb at researching computer parts and felt the positive Amazon reviews were good enough, but apparently I was wrong. Since I was under warranty but too late for a replacement, I RMA'd a replacement from EVGA that cost me about half the buy price to ship, and the one they sent me has the same issue. So I will not try that option again. My budget is around 100 dollars and silence is important to me. I'd like something with a reasonable sound output, it doesn't have to be totally silent. I was looking into the EVGA Gold G2 or G3, because I read somewhere that they are not made by the same manufacturer as the BQ. But before buying I was hoping for some more educated or experienced thoughts. CPU AMD A6-5400K Motherboard MSI A58M-E33 (MS-7721) (P0) RAM 2 x 4gb ADATA DDR3 1600 PC3-12800 GPU 3072MB ATI AMD Radeon R9 200 Series (Sapphire/PCPartner) Storage 119GB ADATA SP 600 SATA Disk Device (SSD) 1863GB Seagate ST2000DM 001-1ER164 SATA Disk Device (SATA) PSU EVGA BQ 650watt Bronze Display(s) Compaq Q2009, HZ194A Cooling Arctic Freezer A11 Operating System Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit

I was digging around my house and found a relic of my past A Game Boy Color. It's banged up but it's fully functional, its just missing a battery cover and the select and start buttons are torn off. I wanted to fix it up and bring it to work so I could play it when I'm on the toilet or something so I thought why not get a Pokemon game. So my question is which Pokemon version should I get? Is there a difference between versions? Or does it even matter? Forgive me because I have never played Pokemon. I was thinking of getting Pokemon Gold but then I saw Silver then Crystal. Anything would help. Also any other Game Boy Color game suggestions are welcome. Thanks.

Hello I am brand new to the forums, and wanted to ask some questions about overclocking that I'm also new to Ok so I have a i5 6600k and a asus 170 pro gaming I've read other forums and tutorials on overclocking for my cpu and just overclocking ones so after following them I have got my overclock to 4.6ghz at 1.35v and I run adia 64 and realbench to check stability never getting hotter max temp than 75°c after 8hours So now for the questions and asking for some advice. I've seen on a lot of these tutorials not to go above 1.4v I was not quite stable at 1.4v on 4.7ghz and I'm wondering is this advice just for heat problems or is 1.4v just to much for the cpu? What is the absolute max if in theory my cpu was still at a cool temp that you should go on voltage? I was looking at changing my cm 212evo for a corsair h80iv2 will I see much or any drop in temp? Also besides the cpu voltage what other settings should I change or look at to help stabilize my overclock basically I know to set the ghz and voltage test and the raise voltage to try and stabilize but I would guess that there is more you can do to stabilize or help it some. What temp is to much for a overclocking seen many different temps from 70-80°c and even some saying that a 85°c in a stability test isn't that bad since normal gaming isn't going to stress it that much and that you will probably never hit those temps but I have been shooting for the middle of what I have seen while I don't want to burn my cpu out in the next 6months I am planing on saving to get a new cpu and mobo in the next year and a half or two so what is the max temp I should be ok with in stability test after 8hours? Thanks for any and all help with my intro into overclocking!

Specs: EVGA 750W 1 TB Seagate (Hybrid SSHD)Corsair Crystal Series 570X 512GB Samsung PM961 M.2 SSD, Read 3000MB/s, Write 1150MB/s Corsair Hydro H110i AIO RGBAMD Ryzen 7 1800X Asus CROSSHAIR VI HERO (AMD X370) Corsair 32GB Vengeance LPX 3200MHz (4x8GB) NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti - 11 GB (ASUS STRIX OC) Monitor: ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q (1440p) (Bought this PC in September of 2017) Hello everyone, I'm wondering you guys could help me once again. I'm really not as tech informed as I once was and there's so many options that are confusing me, I just don't want to waste my money as I have a lot that I need to do right now and feel like I've already made some poor decisions already and therefore I'd really appreciate some honest advise on what I should do next. The goal: - To record any PC game maxed at 1440p without any lag at all. Yes you heard right, ZERO lag! I'm very OCD when it comes to dropped frames, I understand that most people are fine with 60FPS but not me! The moment I feel my frames dip I play much worse and my immersion is broken. The dream is to be able to record with as little tech issues as possible, I want it to feel like I'm just playing as normal without sacrificing anything. I used to record console gameplay on an old YouTube channel I had years ago, the experience was always the same with every game that I played as all the recording was done on a PC therefore I could focus my time on creating content rather than messing around with settings and tutorials. When planning this PC, I searched online for reviews for various CPUs... I came across one slightly misleading video that compared the 1800x with the 7700k, the 1800x did have less FPS than the 7700k however when recording the 1800x only dropped a few frames whereas the 7700k lost 20% of performance while recording with the same settings. I felt like Ryzen was the better option for me as I was mainly concerned about my recording performance and losing a few frames on average wasn't a big deal considering I believed I'd be able to record without having any issues. 8 Cores would be great for what I wanted my PC for, however it appears that less cores and higher clocks get better overall gaming performance. After a few months with the PC I understood that recording at 1440p is way more demanding than anticipated. I also realised at this time that my RAM is not intended to run at 3200mhz with Ryzen as turns out Ryzen is incredibly picky with RAM and I didn't know this at the time. The RAM wasn't cheap either so I knew that that I'd wasted money here. I spoke with the company that built the PC for me and I explained this issue that I have with the RAM, I stated that I would prefer if I could somehow sell the Motherboard/CPU back to them and pay for an upgrade to the x299 platform with a 8700k. This would ensure my RAM would run at higher frequency and I'd be able to get more FPS in games (from the 8700k). I could then build a separate PC with a 4k60PRO capture card so that I definitely wouldn't need to worry about losing frames while recording/streaming again. I am sure that my 1080ti is being bottlenecked in a lot games from the CPU. I was playing FarCry5 for a few hours and whenever a massive fight would kick off I can see my frames dip below 50fps... This feels unacceptable for this GPU and I really can't imagine this would happen if I had an intel chip at a higher core clock? Also see this video: The problem: ComputerPlanet has explained that they don't sell use parts, which is understandable. however they do have a partner that sells used parts, they have offered to pick up my PC for £25 and sell the Asus CROSSHAIR VI HERO and Ryzen 1800x for £282.00. They have given me the following prices for upgrades: - EDIT: Turns out these boards aren't even compatible with 8700k... ComputerPlanet are hopeless. ROG Strix x299 - £315 Asus Prime x299 Deluxe - £395 RAMPAGE VI APEX X299 - £429 8700K - £370 As I'm not the most tech literate, I don't know which of these boards would be the closest match to my current board the crosshair VI hero? That said I also don't know if this is worth doing as I've heard that Ryzen 2's are coming out shortly which might give me more FPS and I might not need to go through the hassle of selling my motherboard/cpu for pennies I could just sell my RAM and buy other RAM that I know would work with Ryzen as explained in my last post from helpful members on this forum. Any advise would be much appreciated, I've been putting off making any more decisions until I speak with people who know what they're talking about. Please help, Thank you!

Hey there! I just wanted to say hi! I have been following LTT since I got into building computers about four years ago, but I just decided to join the community today! I hope that all of you are well!

Hello, im currently assembling my pc following this video This is my first build so sorry if this question is dumb, but i have two SATA cables that came with my power supply and currently only have one SSD, I plan on getting another HDD in about a week or two but what do i do with the extra cable as of now? do i plug it into the PS and just tuck it away for now or leave it off completely or is there somewhere else where i should plug it in? Again sorry but pleas help , thanks

One of my biggest regrets is losing my SNES collection and looking back how well I even treated them when I did have them was not nice either. I want them back. But buying them all new with the boxes is going to be expensive. I don't want loose carts. Buying them may be untenable but I realized with a 3D printer I could just make the cartridges and possibly just make my own reproductions. What ensued was a long journey of research and some frustration but ultimately immense curiosity. What I am looking to create are complete reproductions minus the instruction manuals and the inserts... my aim is not to make forgeries here but rather tangible copies of my old games in a package as close as I reasonably can get to when I got them new as a child. The goal is to make them legit at a glance but easy to tell it is a reproduction upon inspection. Right now I'm wrestling the idea of going with the classic grey for the shell's of the carts or a black color. The point of black would be to immediately tell it is a fake and be a nod to Tengen who famously made unlicensed Nintendo games with wonky colored cartridges. So I made a shopping cart. I'm going to need pcb, chips, resistors, capacitors, diodes, batteries for those games with save information and of course a soldering gun and solder to put this all together. Then a programmer to actually program the ROMs onto the chips. Now, this is a very labor intensive way to the traditional way hobbyist retro game reproducers make their SNES games. Traditionally what is done there is they use what are called 'donor cartridges' and they just remove the ROM from the PCB, wipe it by baking it under UV light, and program the desired game onto the chip. This has its limitations in that you can only put games that use the same pcb type onto the donor cartridge. For example. Lets say you see a copy of Madden '95 kicking around in a game bin for like three dollars. You buy it and look it up at SNES Central where it shows the pcb type. From there we can see the other games that use this pcb are Illusion of Gaia, NHL '95, Secret of Mana, Super Momotarou Dentetsu III, and World Cup Striker. The downside to this method, for me at least, is it requires the destruction of a bonafide SNES game. So no thanks. You may be wondering, what is the cost of all this. First you need the pcb which can be purchased from retrostage.net for 5$. They also sell the case here and the supercic chip which allows the game to be played on actual SNES consoles; they go for 5$ and 4$ respectively. I just tallied it up. The games require—typically: ROM, RAM, one or two integrated circuits for decoding, a battery, resistors, diodes, capacitors. As to the exact parts you need for specific games there is a spreadsheet online that outlines for you what is necessary for the ROM you want to reproduce. As for step by step instructions on how to put it together there is a pdf on the product page of the SNES pcb on retrostage.net. But yes the cost. The cost for all these components comes to about 10$ The cost for a loose cart of an SNES game is 24$ The next cost are the aesthetics. Right now while yes you do have a playable SNES game it is just a blank cartridge on the outside. Next we need labels. These can be purchased online premade and ready to stick on for 5$ for the front label or 2.5$ for the back label. Then you need the box for the game, the inner tray for the game to sit on, and a bag to keep the cartridge in... these run another 5$ At the end the whole thing will look like the end of this video: Also here is a video on how to create the actual box after you've got it printed from a kinkos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NsNBKqbCDQ This comes to a total of 36.50$ for each game, if you want a manual add another ~5-10$ to the cost and you're looking at about 45$ for a completed product not counting all the time it took you to make... so ultimately it isn't the most economical project. This of course is a rough estimate, some games require less components and others require more so its a good baseline. As you can see I have done a fair bit of research... and I have never picked up a soldering gun so this is going to be a fun hobby for me. I am ready to make a purchase but the reason I come here is for help on cutting costs. Currently I'm going through retrostage.net to get the PCB and cartridge shell. Is it possible to create my own PCB and shell? How would I go about doing that? Can they be 3D printed? Is 5$ a fair price for a pcb or is it possible to get that cut down? The majority of SNES games out there have PCB's that are half or even a quarter of the size of the pcb retrostage offers. The reason the pcb is so large is because it is designed to hold the largest possible SNES games that require such a large pcb but when you make the smallest games there's lots of unused space... like over 75% of the pcb. In my next post I am going to document the actual games from my collection that I intend to make. This topic is intended to log my progress.

Hello hello, My name is Montblanc, Nice to meet you all I like food.

Hi! Last year I asked for help with picking out parts for a new build based around the i5-8400 and I got wonderful advice. I preordered the 8400 in november, my supplier has not been able to deliver because of insane demand so I've now cancelled my order and ordered an i5-8600k instead. I was told that my i5-8400 would run fine with the stock fan, but now that I've ordered the 8600k I come to you for advice on CPU cooling. Part list: Mobo: ASUS TUF Z370-Plus Gaming, S1151 CPU: i5-8600k GPU: GTX1070 founder's edition Cabinet: Fractal Design R5 PSU: XFX ProSeries Core Edition 750W PSU The pamphlet for my R5 says the max size for the cooler is 180mm, and I'm not actually planning on overclocking the CPU, I just bought it because of time constraints. Preferably I'm looking for a quiet cooler somewhere in the neighbourhood of 100USD, any help would be greatly appreciated!

I live in Midwest America and would like to spend at most $1500 on a new computer. I would love to be able to do some 3D modeling and game development. I would also like to be able to play games, mostly indie but also some AAA games sometimes.I also play CPU heavy games a lot too. I would like to get a I7 8700k, but would I need to get a Nividia 1080, or would I be okay with just a 1070 for two, maybe three 1080p monitors. I have no idea what to buy when it comes to cases or fans or memory. I would like to get 16 gigs but there are so many brands I don't know where to start. I would like to upgrade to have M.2 storage as well. This would be my first pc as all I have every used was a laptop with integrated graphics and I would to get something with power. Should I just pick a pcpartpicker build with their automated filtered list and hit buy? Or pick each part? Style doesn't matter a whole lot to me. Thanks in advance for your help!

Hey guys, I could not think of a better forum to post this question on.. does anyone have any cloud mining sites that they can reccomend? preferr to have free startup. .. thank you guys, I am doing this on a laptop or i would mine on this pc.. I dont have much money at all.. so I am trying to come up with any and all ways to help pay for that new gaming rig.. I am sure some of you can relate to this.. thanks guys, - Mike.

hi, i'm new here! i'm american, and i pretty much won't be voting this coming election :D

Greetings, Hey! I am new here, my username is MadNox and hoping to have a good time here in the linus techtips community I used to be a reddit person for about 2 years and so! But realized that the tech community there is not that saturated [I'm not trying to act cool but I want to learn] Since linus talked about this community in most of his videos and how he talks about you guys sounds so fun and finally made a decision to move over here and check the community out. but of course [Linus doesn't lie] I should have known from the start. Anyways I hope you guys have a great day. Just a passerby. MadNox

hi all. so I am wanting to get into aerial photography and would like to get some advice on best practices and a good cheep drone good for beginners but that is not complete crap. please and thanks

Goals: Gaming and Twitch Streaming Realistic Gaming Use: 2 hours a night max (if wife approves) while streaming Possible Gaming Use: 5+ hours if I can get my 5 year old to play games with me on this instead of the Xbox one (still haven’t decided if that is a good idea yet) Other uses: College work while streaming Twitch/YouTube/Netflix Already have: Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120 mm PWM Fan Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-H110M-A (rev. 1.0) LGA 1151 Intel H110 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard Ram: GeIL EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2133 (PC4 17000) Intel Z170 & Intel X99 Desktop Memory Model Storage: Refurbished: Western Digital Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive Power Supply: APEVIA ATX-BT700W 700W ATX12V SLI CrossFire Power Supplies Case: VIVO ATX Mid Tower Economy Computer Gaming PC Case / Black Desktop Shell / 4 Fan Mounts, USB 3.0 Port (CASE-V01) Still need: CPU/GPU: I have someone that is going to be hooking me up with a i7 6700K AND a GTX 1080 (not sure how true that is) Help: What should I get for a CPU/GPU IF I don’t get the hook up I expect? I will only have $500 to spend total. Should I return the H110 motherboard for a Z170 chip set? I don’t plan on over clocking right away, but I would like the option down the road, or is it even worth it for as much gaming as I will be doing? I'm a Veteran and the VA recommended that I find a hobby to help me with my PTSD. I used to love computer gaming and have always wanted to build my own PC. I have been watching a few streamers on Twitch for a few months now and I really like the communities they create. I'm hoping to create my own community down the road, or just have some fun. So any help anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated!

Hello all, I'm painfully new at this and obviously need as much help as possible. I'm building a gaming rig, my first, for serious gaming and VR. I've gone online and done wayy too much research (hints how i found you guys here at linus tech tips) and now i would love some advice from the pro. Here is a link to my parts list that i plan on getting http://pcpartpicker.com/list/jVm2m8 The monitor leaves much to be desired but thats something I plan to replace when ive got more than 2k to throw at a new pc. It would be uber appreciated to know if I've done this right and I'm good to order the parts and assemble my first PC and have everything connected and working as ordered. I'm up for any and all criticism you can throw my way. thanks!