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Showing results for tags 'monitor'.
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I have a Monoprice Zero-G 32" (2019, via DP, #1), Samsung Odyssey G7(via DP, #2, gaming), and a 515x1920 (via HDMI, #3, used as a sensor panel w/Aida64.). The issue is that #2 and #3 swaps ID. For example in Escape From Tarkov under graphics settings> monitors. The monitors listed are KF29R(Monoprice), LC32G7xT (Samsung), and a "Blank" options for the sensor panel. I have the Samsung LC32G7xT selected and play the game for hours. Come back later and launch the game, but it loads up on the Sensor Panel. Even though under the settings the Samsung is selected. In order to get it to play on my Samsung I have to select the "blank" monitor. Windows identify them correctly. I have looked through event viewer to see if there is anything there and haven't found anything yet. Also when it does the switch the color profiles are no longer associated with the monitor. This happened a 5800x, MSI x570 Tomahawk, 16x2 G.Skill ram before I upgraded to AM5. System: Computer: ASRock X670E PG Lightning CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D (Raphael, RPL-B2) 4200 MHz (42.00x100.0) @ 4716 MHz (47.25x99.8) Motherboard: ASRock X670E PG Lightning BIOS: 2.00, 11/06/2023 Chipset: AMD X670E (Promontory PROM21L.1) Memory: 32768 MBytes @ 2994 MHz, 36-36-36-96 - 16384 MB PC48000 DDR5 SDRAM - G.Skill F5-6000J3636F16G - 16384 MB PC48000 DDR5 SDRAM - G.Skill F5-6000J3636F16G Graphics: XFX RX 7900 XT Speedster MERC 310 AMD Radeon RX 7900 XT, 20480 MB GDDR6 SDRAM Graphics: AMD Raphael - Internal GPU [AMD] AMD Radeon, 512 MB DDR5 SDRAM Drive: Samsung SSD 870 EVO 1TB, 976.8 GB, Serial ATA 6Gb/s @ 6Gb/s Drive: SanDisk SDSSDA240G, 234.4 GB, Serial ATA 6Gb/s @ 6Gb/s Drive: SATA SSD, 234.4 GB, Serial ATA 6Gb/s @ 6Gb/s Drive: MSI M470 1TB, 976.8 GB, NVMe Drive: SPCC M.2 PCIe SSD, 976.8 GB, NVMe Drive: Samsung SSD 970 EVO Plus 500GB, 488.4 GB, NVMe Sound: ATI/AMD, Device ID: AB30 Sound: ATI/AMD Zen APU - Display HD Audio Controller Sound: AMD Zen - Audio Processor - HD Audio Controller Network: RealTek Semiconductor RTL8125 Gaming 2.5GbE Family Ethernet Controller OS: Microsoft Windows 11 Professional (x64) Build 22621.2861 (22H2)
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Budget (including currency): $130 Country: Canada My Hp laptop (Probook 445 G8) I just got from eBay has an inferior 250 nit 45% sRGB screen 1080p (hp part no. M47408-001). I want to upgrade the screen with one that is compatible within the service manual. I want the 400 nit 100% sRGB 1080p screen (hp part no. M47409-001) found on page 9 of 90 in the service manual http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c07012041.pdf Problem is I don’t know the model number that Samsung or LG or AOU or whoever assigned to this screen. The suppliers like laptopscreen.com and blisscomputers.com don’t have product specifications for the screens they carry other than resolution and whether it a 30 or 40 connector. I called them and they have model numbers only and only know if it is compatible. If I order I could get a worse screen than what I have since there are 9 screen variants. They need a model number if I want a screen that performs to my specs. I called HP multiple times and they don’t know and if they did they won’t tell me. They do sell the screen on hp.parts.com for $588 when I know that screen costs $100 elsewhere online. Does anyone have the model number for the the 400 nit 100% sRGB 1080p screen (hp part no. M47409-001)? It can be found on the back of that lcd panel in an HP Probook with that screen. -
Changed my motherboard 4 days ago. I have 13900KF, Gigabyte Z790 Elite AX Wifi7 1.0, 4 x 16GB DDR5 @4800MHz and Gigabyte RTX 4090 Master. Whenever i play MW3 or just casually using my pc, my monitor suddenly turns black and says "no signal". I can still hear the sounds in game, i can still hear my friends on discord. But after 2 minutes or so, i hear a windows notification. Not knowing what to do, i force shut down my pc and turn it back on. Happened to me like 8 times yesterday. Tried switching DP ports, updated Nvidia Drivers to the latest. Help please. -
The Monitor in question is a ViewSonic VX2758-2KP-mhd. Just yesterday it started to show these weird light-blueish stripes dancing all over the screen and now it even turns on and off in rapid succession, as shown in the video attached. These errors get worse and worse the higher i set the refresh rate. In the Video it is running at max 144hz. At 75hz the Stripes are still clearly visable, however at 60hz it is somewhat bearable, but artifacts and weird flickers still occur. I ran the monitor with 2 different displayport cables as well as HDMI and on 2 separate computers. One computer only had HDMI though and the monitor only runs at 60hz max on it anyway, yet the artifacts were still visable so i guess it doesnt change anything. My Question: Is there any hope at repairing this as an electrical engineer? Or would that be a waste of time? Any opinions on the LG 27GP850-B as a possible replacement? Thank you very much in advance! VID-20220315-WA0000.mp4
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I’m sorry for the wall of text, it’s complicated. On my desk I have: two monitors (it happens with both), a laptop (+ dock), a desktop, and a mixer (and some other stuff but I don’t think those are relevant? feel free to ask if you think they might be). Whenever I plug a monitor into the laptop (or rather, its dock), the audio from that same laptop gets noisy, regardless of which monitor, video in, video out, or audio out. The desktop has no such issues, by using my mixer I verified it is only the audio from the laptop. That being said, if I unplug the monitors from the desktop the noise goes away. So, both computers being connected to a monitor (can be the same or different ones) creates the noise. Bypassing the mixer has no effect Now to make things more complicated: I have earbuds with a mic, I use those old school audio Y-spitters to separate the mic from the audio, one at the earbud end and one at the other end to plug into my iPad (that way I can still pause by using the button in my earbuds and put my mixer in between on the audio side so I can listen to my desktop, laptop, iPad, etc. all at the same time), whenever I unplug the mic side the buzz goes away and returns when I plug it in and it does not need to be the iPad, I can also plug the mic into the laptop or desktop, it creates the same noise, it can even be plugged into just the splitter without the iPad. Furthermore, to make things really weird, I can unplug everything (even power) except the video cable from the monitor while keeping the noise (though it is stronger with power connected). The noise could probably best be described as a whine, similar to coil whine, but less stable (it varies in pitch and volume). Here, have a listen: Weird noise.m4a So, to summarise, both computers being connected to a monitor (can be the same or different ones) AND connecting the mic from my earbuds to anything creates the noise, bypassing the mixer does nothing, the noise is only present from the laptop, it happens regardless of power to the monitors and desktop (laptop can’t be unplugged because the dock only works when powered) I’m at a loss, if anyone could point me in a direction where it starts making even the slightest bit of sense, I would be very happy... perhaps interesting: Laptop: HP ProBook 6560b Dock: HP 2012 90W Docking Station Monitor 1: LG 27GP850 Monitor 2: HP Z23 G2 Mixer: Behringer Xenyx 502 Earbuds: Apple EarPods Desktop: Custom
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I can't find any reviews on this specific model... planning on buying for casual gaming and casual photo/video editing. it's 1920x1080, IPS, 100Hz
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Hi, hoping someone has some insight here- the display is a Dell G2724D. When HDR is turned on, the text/iconography on the screen looks great- properly scaled, free of artifacting etc. But when HDR is disabled the image looks oversharpened/aliased, with kind of outlines around text and pixellated icons. Any ideas as to what could be happening? Some games have poor HDR implementation with vulkan so I'd like to be able to disable it to play them without sacrificing all the image quality :')
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Hello! First time OLED buyer. I want to buy a monitor that will be the best of all worlds. In the past, I have had Dual monitor set ups - 1 cheap and 1 mid range. I am now a single monitor guy due to space constraints and I want a single high end. Now my question is should I go for the brand new 27" AW2725DF or the sibling of the monitor Plouffe has loved for (i think) nearly 2 years. I will be mostly gaming - Mostly RPGs. This means I don't really care about the 360hz. My issue is deciding if I want new QD OLED tech or if the last gen is still perfectly fine. I've read a lot about burn in, but I've also seen that it doesn't really matter. If there was a Gen 3 QD OLED Ultrawide, I would buy that. I don't know which way I should go. Should I wait a few months to see if they release an updated 34" version.
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These are photos from a while ago(they go in order from bottom to top, I had videos which wouldn't upload for at all), where the issue would happen when I don't use the monitor for an extended period of time. if I swapped ports and plugged/unplugged cables it would eventually work normally, but the issue persists and now it got worse. Now, the flickering is happening on the bottom half of the screen and will slowly dissipates and then suddenly the screen will go black. I tried with three different HDMI cables on both HDMI ports. I also tried unplugging and plugging back in the power cable multiple times as well as HDMI cables and I also bought a DP to HDMI cable to try it, but the cable didn't work at all. Can I fix it somehow, or do I just bin it and buy a new Monitor?? Thanks for the help upfront
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My Dell 7020 died, so I bought a Dell 9020 (second-hand, obviously). I work with three monitors. The first, I connected VGA to VGA, no problem. The second, Display port to VGA via an adapter. No problem. The third monitor is connected display port to diplay port, and the computer fails to recognise it. Any ideas?
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Hello there, hope u guys had a nice Christmas. I am looking for a new Monitor, I want one with 1440p and at least 144 hz between 27 and 32 inches. I have about 350 Euros or about 385 dollars and i don't care if it's curved or not. Right now i am looking at a GIGABYTE M27Q or an LG 27GP850P-B UltraGear™. Do u guys have any recomendations? Thanks in advance. Herbs
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My laptop monitor is messed up at 144hz but is fine at 60hz. It was worked perfectly fine at 144hz since I bought it.
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So mostly the only games I am going to play is fornite. My pc gets more than 100fps like 150fps to like even 200fps and I was wondering if a 100hz monitor is good enough for my gameplay. I mean will I see all 150fps or just 100fps bc that the hz of the monitor. Like will my performance be reduced bc I only have 100hz or will I have more than 150 visible fps up to 200fps. Im talking I can see and feel the fps not just the screen telling me I have this and that fps but actually I only had 100fps. -
This seemed to happen on most games but I notice it a lot on fortnite and it only happens when I set my fps to the same as my monitors refresh rate which is 240 so if I put my fps any lower or higher in game it won’t do it only when I’m on 240 fps in game settings. I’m not sure why this is happening and was looking for any fix beacuse I want to just set my fps to 240 IMG_4005.MOV
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This seemed to happen on most games but I notice it a lot on fortnite and it only happens when I set my fps to the same as my monitors refresh rate which is 240 so if I put my fps any lower or higher in game it won’t do it only when I’m on 240 fps in game settings. I’m not sure why this is happening and was looking for any fix beacuse I want to just set my fps to 240 IMG_4005.MOV -
In my mind, it is trying to predict how long rendering the next frame will take, then delays starting the task. I am rather curious as to how RTSS can reduce latency by so much, compared with alternatives like just VSync I would expect that for a scenario with 1% lows of 120FPS+, that enforcing a frame cap of 120FPS would actually have higher latency than Scanline Sync 120Hz. Can anyone with the technical knowledge on this chime in, or perhaps just anyone who is also curious?
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Hi there, I am curious about what docking station i need for my laptop (MSI katana 15 b12v) to support my monitor (MSI MAG241C) with the full 144hz. I also watched many videos and read many threads to get an answer but i still can't find it. I only need it to be 1080p because my monitor doesn't support 4K, i would love a recommendation that isnt too expensive but still supports 1 HDMI or DP output for my monitor that reaches the 144hz.
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I might be alone in wanting this at all, but seeing as many monitors are shifting to be entertainment hubs (like Samsung’s gaming hub) and how there are now monitors reaching upwards of 40 inches, the lack of eARC support in any way shape or form is a bit of a head-scratcher. I had got a Sonos Beam Gen 2 for Christmas and thought I could just plug it into my 3000 series GPU for only sound, but that’s not supported. On top of that, the only way to use Dolby Atmos (except a dedicated receiver) is with hdmi (e)ARC. There are extractors on the market that will split your audio and video, but they seem spotty at best, with the chance of them working for your setup being up in the air until you blow at least $200 dollars on one that has hdmi 2.0 specs but is listed to support eARC somehow anyway. I feel like this would be a topic Linus would’ve covered already, but I don’t think any big tech channels in general have. Understandable if it’s a niche desire/product, as it wouldn’t make sense to build an eARC port into monitors if it doesn’t get used by 90% of owners, so I’m wondering if I’m alone in my thinking. -
Hi. I have rx570 Saphire edition with 2 HDMI ports. I also have 2 monitors with only VGA ports. When I connect each monitor individually via HDMI to VGA adapter they work fine, but not together. Simultaneous connection results in both showing bios loading, then Windows starting and after few seconds both lose signal. If I plug in one monitor using the abovementioned adapter as usual and another screen using HDMI port without any adapter, they also work great. I assume problem lies in using 2 HMDI to VGA adapters at the same time. Drivers are up to date. Monitors are Samsung and ViewSonic. Windows display settings are set correctly, since they work fine with 2 monitors if only one of them uses adapter. Has anyone had similar issue? What can be the solution?
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How insane is this? The monitor I purchased is in my account's order history with all its details available. Yet I have to go through this interrogation for even the most basic warranty support. "Good Day, Kindly reply to the email with these documents below : i)Picture at the back of the monitor with the serial number ii)on a white paper please write in your name, today's date and the case number that I have emailed you. iii)Picture of the invoice that you have purchased the monitor from Dell. iv)Together with your address details. v)Full view picture of the monitor. Thank you for choosing Dell."
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I am looking to upgrade from a 27in 1440p monitor to a nice 4k one. I really don't know much about the differences in what makes a good or bad monitor yet but I want a monitor with really good coloring and obviously high refresh rate. I saw a thread on Reddit about a debate between 27/28in and 32in for 4k and that threw me even more on my hunt for a monitor. I am pretty much only using it for gaming and play a wide variety of games. What are some good ones I should look at or what should I look for in a monitor that makes it good/better than others? Also curved or flat? I've always had flat and curved seems like it would be strange but I've also been kind of curious about it lately. My specs are I7 10700K, MSI Gaming Z Trio 3080, 32gb RAM, Z490 Aorus Elite AC Mobo.
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Hello! We are planning a new meeting room at work, and none of use have done this kind of setup before so i want to get help from you experts! We want a interactive monitor, we were looking at the Samsung Flip Pro (65 inch) and then we want a soundbar so we could also use the montior to watch some basic stuff like the Olympics etc with some decent sound. As far as i have gathered i would need to connect the soundbar to the monitor either using Optic og HDMI Arc/eArc. But this monitor do not support either of those connections, so my questions is, would it be possible to buy something like a Sont HT-S2000 and use the USB-A connection to connect the soundbar to the monitor while also using a USB-C cable from a laptop to the monitors USB-B connection. Would that mean i would get sound via the USB-A soundbar and also retain the interactive ascept of the monitor when connecting it from a USB-C connection to a USB-B connection on the back of the monitor? From what i read, using bluetooth from the monitor to the soundbar is not recommended and might cause delay. What would you guys suggest i do if i want a simple USB-C cable from the laptop ? Thank you!
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I have 144hz gsync supported asus laptop with rtx4060 but there is no third option in nvcp. What should I do? How others look: How mine looks:
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Hello! My wife needs a new monitor for working with design programs, reading a lot of text, and gaming. The monitor needs to be 32 inches or bigger and has a flat screen, more gaming-focused than productivity but still gives a good color output and clear text for reading. I have been searching online but there are simply too many factors my busy mind can't process all of them at the same time. If anyone can give me some recommendations that would be much helpful. Thank you in advance. -
So i sent my GPU in via warranty/RMA to MSI this morning. I thought that this particular graphical glitch I was getting could've been from my GPU since it's almost 3 years old. I just rebooted about 10 minutes ago and got the same glitch on my spare gpu. It's a sheet of purple vertical bars that I can't make any pictures out of. I unplugged my HDMI cord from the back of the GPU and it got better. I'm afraid it's something wrong with the monitor as I'm not sure if I have the warranty on it to send it in. Could it be my hdmi cord? It goes away almost instnatly once I un/replug the cord. Any help is appreciated.
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