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Showing results for tags 'lg'.
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Hi What would be better to upgrade? Logitech x240 speakers to krk rp5 g4 lg 1080p 75hz to LG ultrawide 160hz
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Budget (including currency): Country: Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Need for blender,graphics design, editing,movie,browsing and gaming. Which one will be nest option . If gigabyte will buy a monitor arm.
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has anyone bought an LG ultrafine and had issues with it? i bought mine about 2-3 years ago and have had nothing but trouble with it. I called LG today and they said there is nothing they can do about it but the issue im having is a know issue where the single display thunderbolt stops working. it will not turn on the display but it will charge my macbook.
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HI All If anyone is interested in buying a UHD DVD player i would like to advise you all to not bother with the LG UBK90. I got mine when i got a new TV because it matched the specs of my TV and supported all the same standards. As it turns out its a perfectly good DVD as long as you don't want it to play UHD DVDs. Some may play just fine but it appears theirs an issue with triple layer disks and i find most of my UHD DVDs are triple layer DVDs there for most don't play well. This post is a warning to people to avoid this "UHD player". I have also contacted LG asking about a software update to fix the known problem and they don't seem interested in supporting a product that made. So if you are looking for a UHD DVD player I have herd Sony makes a good one or you could buy a PS5, it supports playing UHD disks as long as you get the disk version. Thanks and good luck.
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Like the OLED C2 / B2 / A2 from 2022 Is there anything new in that price range?
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Hi there :), Long time listener of WAN and subscriber of LTT on yt, but first time posting. Linus speaks pretty highly of yall so hopefully I can find some help and tips here. My problem is as follows. When I turn HDR on in windows my TV display goes black, audio becomes choppy. When i turn off HDR, there are many tiny dots around all the things on my screen, almost like tv static but overlayed on top of my desktop. Everything used to work perfectly but when I woke up one day the previously stated issue started. - Windows 10 pro 64 Bit, Software version 21H2 - i7 7700k @ 4.2 ghz - corsair vengance ddr4, 32gb @ 3200MHz - 500GB WDBlack m.2 SSD - MSI GeForce RTX 3060 Ti Ventus 2X OC, stock - LG SK8800 TV. - MSI Z270-A PRO v1 dated 2016-12-15. I have tried the following - buying a new HDMI cable - Using a DVI-HDMI cable instead (works but no HDR) - Using alternate ports on the TV (all ports work fine with other devices) - lowering the resolution in windows - Using an active DP to HDMI adapter - factory resetting TV - trying other ports on GPU I suspect one of the following is happening. 1.) My GPU is failing 2.) The alternative cable I bought was underspec'd despite the label refering to it as HDMI 2.1 Any help would be greatly appreciated ♥ -
Hey guys, I've been racking my brain for a past few days deciding between LG C2 and Samsung QN91B (dunno if a QN90B is the same or just different name of the same TV in NA market). I have some very specific conditions not only regarding where this TV will be placed, but also how it will be used: 1. TV as PC display - static elements galore, likely 2-4 windows at the same time, PC gaming - mostly chill games, sometimes competitive shooters, however solid HDR performance in games is important, since I do play Forza, Cyberpunk and other games where visuals matter, low input lag is also important. 2. TV as TV - not only will I use it for productivity and PC gaming, but also to watch movies, however I'm not an avid watcher of Netflix and the like, just from time to time. 3. Upscaling performance - not all content will be native 4K, I will be playing some games in 1440p until I'll upgrade my PC. 4. Moderate to heavy use - sporadically 10h a day of mixed use non-stop, likely 3-5h mixed, sometimes just 2h of TV/YouTube, sometimes no use at all. 5. Distance to screen - when using it as PC display, around 80 cm/32 inches away from screen, when using it as TV or chill gaming with a controller, around 3 meters/9'8" away from screen. 6. Bright room conditions - TV will be placed on a wall in a corner of the room and on the wall perpendicular to that with the TV is a window, distance from TV to said window is around 130 cm/82 inches (very close); the positioning makes it so for the most of daytime sunlight comes perfectly parallel to the display not really hitting it (howevert the room is bright, like really bright), but during sunset sunlight will hit the display at 45 degree angle. It's a pain to explain, so I made an absolutely awful 1:20 scale sketch to illustrate what I'm on about. There are 2 other "artificial" light sources - my "desk light", which is actually 1,5 meters above my desk, but will illuminate the screen and A LOT of RGB in my PC which will be standing directly next to the screen on the right of it, also illuminating it heavily. 7. Longevity - 3 years is an absolute minimum to me. 8. Sound - not that important, the wall on which TV will be placed is covered top to bottom in acoustic panels and I have Sonos Ray as my PC Speaker mounted 1,5 meters above the floor so it basically fills the whole room with sound nicely. 9. G-sync/FreeSync - at this moment I don't know if I go for RTX 4080 or 7900 XTX, but I would like tear free gaming experience regardless of that choice Normally I would go for an OLED any day of the week, but I fear that in my case it won't be bright enough and with my style of using it I'll give it plenty of reason to burn in. On the other hand, Samsung does have some blooming and uniformity issues from what I read. That's pretty much it. I need help deciding which TV is a better pick for me and also what size should it be - 42/43" or 48/50". Any help will be greatly appreciated In terms of pricing - 50" Samsung goes for 1199USD, 48" LG goes for 1329USD.
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After watching and reading a lot of reviews, I want to get this LG C2 (48inch version): Amazon as my living room TV upgrade. People say it is the best price/performance TV of 2022, although has its gimmicks. Its webOS doesn’t run as smooth as others, the panel is too dark, the 48inch version doesn’t have the "new" panel the bigger sizes have... I also looked for other TVs like the Philips 707 or LG A2 although, they don’t seem to atract me like the C2 does, not to say the C2 has A LOT of positive reviews. I’m mainly looking for something around 1K euro (+-100€) and the size aprox. of 48inch since the distance of the TV and couch is around 3,5 meters. I’m open to listen to your sugestions. Now I am concerned about the OLED "burn-in" phenomenon this tech has. If I watch twitch streams that have most of the time the background static, will it affect it? What would be the time limit for the burn-in to happen and leave traces on the panel? I also wanna plug into it an iFi Micro iDSD Signature but there is not much info about it out there. I guess connecting it through RCA cables (as a sound bar would do) should be fine, or use rather an optical port adapter.
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Hi guys could you help a lad here, Im choosing between M32u or LG 34GN850 or LG C2 42. Basically here is my usage: Gaming (valorant, warzone 2.0) Mostly Productivity (Web design, graphic design, coding) I also do video edits My standard: 1. Color accuracy 2. 144hz or 160hz 3. 1440 or 4k Specs: 3080 5950x These monitors are on sale in my area (except for LG C2 42) but m32u is a lot cheaper. But the ultrawide is also good especially that Im using ny workstation for productivity. PROS and CONS that gives me dilemma M32U - Meets all my requirements but do not have the benefit of Ultrawide LG 34GN850 - Meets all the requirements as well, not 4k BUT is ultrawide LG C2 - A combination of both but the main prioblem I have with OLEDs are it's color accuracy and the OLED burns which might get noticeable in the long run. Thanks for your inputs, guys!
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Hey Guys, My Great-Aunt is planning on upgrading from a Samsung 50in 1080p 3D TV (UA50ES6200) to a 75" ish inch 4k TV. Her current TV is connected to a Yamaha RX-A1060 AV receiver (which she will keep). Connected to the AV Receiver is a Apple TV 4K, Foxtel (Australian cable TV) and a DVD Player (WHY STILL!?!?) which is all being controlled by a Logitech harmony hub. What TV do you suggests she might get with a budget of like AUD$4,500. I am pretty sure she will want HDR, but doesn't need High Refresh Rate (as the AV receiver doesn't support this) I was thinking the LG C2 77", but would love to hear your suggestions.. I am going TV shopping with her this Sunday.
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I don't know if this is the right topic to talk about this so I am sorry if i messed up. I'm looking to buy a new TV and im stuck with 2 choices. 1. LG 55qned863qa 55" 2. LG 65nano883pb 65" I'm stuck between picking size or quality. I believe the qned tech is better looking for sure, but having a 65" TV is also a nice thing. I know there is a 65" qned LG TV but that is too expensive for me. If anyone has an idea what could be a better option please write on the topic. PS. both 65" and 55" would fit nicely in the living room where i'm planning to put them
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I'm mostly here to vent about LG's crap support and crap limited warranty. I bought the LG Tone Free Fp9 last year in December after I saw the LTT review video. I've enjoyed it for the most part but this past month has been really unfortunate. The right-side Bluetooth headset case split open and when I called the LG support number, they said it was "cosmetic" damage and NOT covered under the warranty. I wear it daily to listen to music and podcast and I think the adhesive just failed to adhere. I ended up super glueing the case halves shut and clamping it overnight. Next up, a few weeks later, I go to charge the charging case with my usually Samsung Note20 charging cable and then when I go to unplug it, the plastic piece that holds the connector wires on the female jack strips out and gets stuck in the male cable. The connector wires are still visible inside the female side of the charging case. I called support and they once again, said that this was physical damage and NOT covered under warranty. I've had tons of type c devices and nothing like the 2nd incident has ever happened. LTT folks, anyone ever have issues like this with their type c devices or also hate LG support?
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guess it yourself from the title. link: 27'' UltraGear™ OLED Gaming Monitor with 240Hz Refresh Rate (lg.com) review this please.. -
I'm about to buy a 65" oled for my living room and I'm considering the LG G2 and the Samsung S95B I know the QD-OLED is the best panel but i'm not sure because of QA issues and being the first generation. what do you think? they are about the same price
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I recently bought this monitor to prepare for the RTX 4090 and I've loved it since the day it came in. Just earlier today though, I ran into a strange issue, after firing up Resident Evil 5 to see if it was supported by auto HDR, the colors and brightness on my monitor seemed to change - colors became washed out and peak/high? brightness seemed to decrease drastically - and I'm not sure why. I haven't been able to fix this no matter what I've tried and I'm a bit confused as to what happened or how I can fix this from here. I've tried the following already: Multiple restarts of my PC, the monitor, and any and all HDR settings, as well as factory resetting the display Calibrating the monitor using the MS Store's HDR calibrator Doing a fresh/clean reinstallation of Nvidia drivers Using a windows system restore to roll back to three days ago on October 27th With no luck on any of those. I've also checked the typical suspects - the color settings in Nvidia's control panel, the monitor had the same settings as before: Desktop Color Depth: Highest (32-bit) Output color depth: 12 bpc Output color format: RGB Output dynamic range: Full I'm aware that not being OLED and not having dimming zones makes this less of an HDR monitor than others, but with a peak brightness of 1100 nits I was more than happy with the experience, and I can't seem to recreate that now for some reason. Everything I've tried - MH Rise, Overwatch 2, RE Village and some other titles that had noticeable peak brightness (or at least high brightness) sources I could point to, even the Windows desktop, none of them are as bright as they used to be. I was able to fix the issue of colors being washed out by bumping the "Digital Vibrance" in Nvidia's Control panel to 70%, but before I was having a great experience with 50% so I'm not sure what happened to make me need to change that. I'm at a complete loss as to what I can try further. One suggestion I saw was to just reinstall Windows entirely, but I'd like to avoid that if possible, especially because I really don't think it's related to the issue. I've attached my DxDiag to the post in case that's useful at all, I'm just baffled as to how launching a game could cause all of this. Additonal info: Win11, 64bit, 22H2, Build 22621.674 Specs per guidelines: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Gigaguy777/saved/nhRKHx Nvidia Driver version: 526.47 Update: Decided to give a clean reinstall of Windows a try and no luck, still seeing the same issues, colors are washed out with vibrancy (which I didn't need before) and brightness is still way lower than what it was before. DxDiag.txt -
My laptop is LG U560 (2013) Chrome, version and windows10: On the Tuesday night I decided to update my laptop since it had became sluggish in the last week and thought the update might help as suggested by many youtube videos, after trying other fixed I came across with the updating my software solution so I proceeded. Duringthe nightI downloaded the windows update assistant and left my pc downloading the updates at 49% before I went for bed, 7 hours later I woke upand the pc was installing the updates after restating automatically but it was stuck at 30% for hours then it suddenly went off which could have been the problem with my faulty laptop battery, then I pluggedin and tried booting, and here I ended. My laptop can not boot anymore and it's stuck in this loop. It has created these unknown copies of my windows operating system and wherever I try booting one of them, I get driven back to the recovery menu. So here iam, stuck and I idle because all my work is on here. The are the clones of windows I have but never created. I get here after choosing one operating system from the list, when I select a language I get redirected to the recovery menu again.
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Hello all. I'm on the market to get myself a new TV as my current Sony 4K LCD panel is struggling more and more with HDR content. I've done some extensive research in regards to OLED vs QLED vs QD-OLED and my current conclusion is QD-OLED is theoretically best for color accuracy, brightness and longevity. But LG has made great improvements in the OLED category to boost brightness peaks and longevity. Also the prices are night and day. The features however when comparing on general websites are essentially the same, only LG is sticking to their doubtful WebOS while Sony has only 2 HDMI 2.1 inputs (both issues are of little importance to me) Power consumption are samy as well and sound is a non-factor since I have a home theater setup. Something to take into account however is my TV is facing a window and it's really not working out right now. I believe a good dose of brightness would mitigate our issue (we're not planning to relocate the TV setup and our solution is to just close the lids when things are impossible to watch). But I think both TVs are toe to toe in terms of brightness aren't they? Do you guys have any other argument to tip the balance between the two? Right now price is the biggest factor to me but I remain open-minded. Thanks for your input.
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Lg c2 or sony A80K Which one is a better tv? Helping a friend
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So recently I have been having major problems with my TV setup. After power outages the hmi port on my TV that's connected to my Xfinity cable box goes out along with the port on the cable box. I believe this problem is caused by the Xfinity cable box since I have all of my TV setup connected to an apc UPS and the only consistent thing going out is what's connected to the TV cable box. I'm now having to get a new TV since all my HDMI ports no longer work after this happening 3 times I'm upgrading from an old 1080p Panasonic plasma tv to an LG C1 48" and I don't know what to do about preventing the HDMI ports going out or even if it'll happen with the new TV from what I found the only HDMI surge protectors only support HDMI 1.4 and I don't want to lose our on quality because of that. What should I do for a solution? Sorry for the poor writing and if this is hard to understand I'll clarify anything If that can help.
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Hi, So my situation is pretty simple. I need a new tv and im looking to get a 65". My eyes ended up on either the lg c2 or samsung s95b. Its a tv for my living room so not a light controled environnement. Im hesitennt mostly because there is a 500$ difference so im wondering which one would be better. I tought maybe the samsung since from reviens it seems less reflective and brighter but then 500$. Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Hi everyone recently I got myself an LG 50nano806pa I wanted to see if I can get 4k 120hz on this tv with an HDMI 2.1 cable in the normal settings of the tv I was not able to do this but it does allow me to use deep colour so I thought to myself plug it into my PC and I have an RTX 3080 which I am aware that supports 2.1 so I went into Nvidia custom resolution and started from a base of 1080p then got up to 4k which allowed me to run 4k 120hz with 12-bit colour and colour output of ycbcr444 which I was really confused cause any review that is out there for the tv says it does not have an HDMI 2.1 port so it would not be capable of out putting that resolution with that refresh rate also with that colour depth the tv software is on the latest version to the date that I'm writing from which the version of it is 03.33.11 I went onto lg's website checking for any information about it supporting 4k 120hz like the very popular lg c1 oled but I came up with nothing so the only thing I can think of is that I have the best budget tv in the world that can be overclock to a ungodly amount or LG is purposely limiting there budget end TVs to make sure people are pushed to go with the more expensive version. I'm just typing here to figure out if anybody else has had the same thing here or if I am the only one and I would like people to comment on their ideas about this.
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Weird pinkish/blueish colors when I turn on HDR in Windows 11
Giuliano_14 posted a topic in Displays
I bought a new monitor, an LG 32GN600B. When I activate HDR in Windows 11 it turns the whole screen a blue-ish or maybe pink-ish color. The OSD locks out every setting except brightness and sharpness so I can't do anything there. I know my monitor does not support "true HDR", only displaying up to SRGB but I'd still like to have the added brightness and contrast even if it's a small difference. I don't understand why it looks so strange with HDR on. Does it have to do with maybe the monitor is receiving a wide color gamut signal and the monitor can't display most of it? Can I have "SRGB HDR"? -
I'm currently using the Galaxy Buds Plus and I love their seal in the ear and battery! but one of my earbuds died on me last week So I've looked around and the LG Tone Free FP9 seem good, has anyone tried them or know how good they seal in the ear? I haven't been able to find online anything about this. do you think it could block sounds if i keep ANC off? And do you have any recommendations for any other earbuds which are comfortable and have a good seal?
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In our home we currently have a 2012 Samsung UE46ES8090 TV which recently had problems with the panel and the HDMI inputs. RIP. So it was time to get a new TV, thought of an A90K but I also saw an ad for an X90J. However I really don't have a clue what the difference between those two is, and is it even worth it switch to Sony TVs (According to Linus, yes)? And are there any other TVs that have the same specs but are cheaper or smaller?
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Hello, I encountered the following problem, namely, neither the BIOS nor Windows 10 detect the LG GH24NSD1 optical disc drive. The motherboard I have is MSI Z370-A PRO, and the BIOS version is (freshly flashed) 7B48v2C. I have already tried rewiring the drive's connector cable to free SATA 3, 4, 5 and 6 ports, but the BIOS does not see the device in any of them. After those unsuccessful attempts, I updated the BIOS to the latest stable version, but this also proved unsuccessful. From similar problems described on the web, I also found out about the possibility of adding the EnumDevice1 variable to the registry path Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\atapi\Controller0, which also brought no change. I also checked the chipset driver, just in case, and I have the latest version (Intel Chipset Driver 10.1.18508.8239) and the SATA AHCI controller driver (10.0.19041.1288). I've also tried swapping the places of the connectors of my secondary hard-drive connector, which works flawlessly, with the aforementioned optical drive, but appears that when I switch the HDD to SATA4 and the optical drive to SATA2, the BIOS detects the hard drive in SATA4, but considers SATA2 to be empty. I've also checked the cables for bent pins, and as far as I can tell, everything is fine. I've also checked too see if it could be the fault of the power supply cable, but it seems to be sitting firmly in the port. The only thing I can think of is that the optical drive is defective, but that seems highly unlikely to me, since I've actually used it maybe once or twice. In summary, the described kit is: OS: Windows 10 64-bit version 21H1 19043.1826 Motherboard: MSI Z370-A PRO BIOS version: 7B48v2C CPU: Intel Core-i7 8700K Recorder: LG GH24NSD1 I attach screenshots of the BIOS.
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