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Showing results for tags 'lcd'.
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Hi everyone! I'm currently thinking about upgrading the screen of my Dell Inspiron 15R 5521 from 1366x768 to 1920x1080 by changing the LCD panel. I have gathered enough information to determine what LCD and LVDS cable I need, but some things still hold me back. Let me start with what I have now; LCD panel: LG Display LP156WH3 (TL)(SA) LVDS cable: (Dell p/n:) VAW00 LVDS CABLE What I am planning to upgrade with; LCD panel: Chimei Innolux N156HGE-LG1 REV.C2 LVDS cable: (Dell p/n:) W08FN LVDS FHD CABLE Both the new LCD screen and LVDS cable are listed as compatible with the Inspiron 15R 5521 on Parts-People.com LCD: https://www.parts-people.com/index.php?action=item&id=16242 LVDS: https://www.parts-people.com/index.php?action=item&id=14678 The current and new screen have the same 40-pin connector, the new LVDS cable is just to be sure. So far so good, but next the things that make me doubt; - When I do a search for other types of Dell Inspiron series, I usually find the LVDS cable listed as either "LVDS HD CABLE" or LVDS FHD CABLE" while my current LVDS cable is just called that, without HD or FHD on it. This makes me doubt there is/was no choice of LVDS cable, just one. - When searching for my current LVDS part number (VAW00), I mostly find the motherboard of my Inspiron. So when I search for VAW00 I get motherboards, and when I search W08FN I get LVDS cables. This makes me wonder if this motherboard only supports one type of display, because the part number of my current LVDS cable links directly to the motherboard instead of a separate LVDS cable. Someone may be wondering why I don't just get a new laptop. Because, while from 2013, this laptop still does everything I want it to do and is still in very good condition. The only downside is the resolution at the moment, especially when coding etc.
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Not much electronic experience, so please bear with me. One of the goals of my current project it to design a as small as possible case around this controller board and it's accompanying LCD screen. The hurdle I'm currently facing is that the case is too tall because of the clearance needed for to house the video and audio out ports in this board. My idea right now since I'm only really using hdmi and dc in why not shave a couple of millimeters by desoldering all the other ports except those two. I'm guessing it will still work after removing it, hope so at least... Could it be done on with only a cheap soldering iron, a heat gun and a solder sucker? with absolutely no other tool in regards to working with electronics at my disposal?
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I have GP72 6QF laptop changed my HDD to Seagate Firecuda 1TB SSHD (no windows installed--all new). CPU fan broke so had to replace it. Heard of new thermal paste (LIQUID METAL-- Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut). Have applied on both CPU and GPU and even on heat-sink. It was all fine but the CPU fan I replaced made rattling sound so again opened the heat-sink and add cushions to stop the rattling and it did. But the problem is I SPILLED over some of that LIQUID METAL over CPU and GPU. I tried to clean it by spraying Isopropyl Alcohol 99.9% all over CPU and GPU and then took toilet paper to absorb it. Also used Air Duster to remove all the alcohol beneath the CPU and GPU. After it dried I placed ELECTRICAL TAPE all around CPU and again applied LIQUID METAL. Now I tried to install Windows in the new SSHD. It did all the way to Cortona settings BUT the problem is Its stuck over there. The screen says Please Wait!. After a few seconds, the Screen turns blue saying Video TDR failure (that with symbol and QR CODE) and it restarts. Then it took time to boot up and it says Windows not installed properly and repair this PC or Shut down options comes up. Now I thought to change my new SSHD to my old HDD where Windows is already installed. When I did so, it boots up and even to Log Screen. But the problem is the Screen is Torn. Like there are all kinds of dots and glitches all over the screen. But it did show me my logo so I enter the password to log in but it didn't go through. Ithe screen went pitch black and then again the blue screen appeared about VIDEO TDR FAILURE and it restarted. And it's always the LOOP when I try to boot So did the short the motherboard? Or my CPU and GPU are short? Or there is a problem with my LCD screen? Or my HDD socket is short-circuited? Or its something terrible? Please help me out! Thank you! P.S Sorry, my English is not that good.!
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Hello. Do you think it is still worth it buying a 17"/19" CRT that can handle 120Hz at lower resolutions (800x600, 1024x768) for gaming (mostly older and fast paced games like Far Cry, CS GO) if I have a low budget atm (150 euro is optimal for me, but I can invest at most 240 euro)? I can get a 17" Hyundai CRT in very good condition for $15 locally, coupled with a $20 DisplayPort-VGA active adapter and a $15 thick VGA cable I think it's the most affordable and highest price/performance way for me to get into high-refresh, low motion blur gaming. What are the real drawbacks of CRT monitors, except the flicker, high power consumption and the thickness (none of that matters to me btw)? I heard CRT monitors are still the best budget choices in some ways like black level, color reproduction and so (especially with cheap TN panels). Is that true? Thanks, MISLcz (I'm new to this forum, so please don't hate me for doing something wrong regarding this post.) -
Hi Guys, I recently bought LG 22mp68vq. But to my surprise, I can't use this monitor with my GPU's DVI/HDMI ports. Its just shows blank screen(even in post) and the monitors' power LED indicator is static(same as in a case of successful connection). Here is what I did - Removed the GPU, switched to the APU and powered up the monitor (DVI) with igp in my A105800k. -It showed the post screen and I can switch to boot options as well (the same can't be done with connection from GPU) -But there is again black screen after the post, so I switched to safe mode and set the startup option as: "safe mode with base video". This let me boot into windows, and from there I ran DDU to remove all graphic drivers. -I noticed that if I try to switch the screen resolution to 1080P(display setting) the screen goes blank and I had to wait for it to revert to default. After that I installed AMD legacy GPU drivers and it worked fine at 1080P.(DVI port) -The display randomly switches to low resolution but I'm not sure why. But the screen was functional. All this above is done on the integrated graphics. -To check if my GPU is bad or not I connected it with a VGA cable(using DVI to VGA converter on GPU side and connecting the monitor with VGA input). -the screen shows successful connection, and I'm able to use it. Now I plugged in the HDMI cable while the VGA as the primary connection, it showed up on the Nvidia control panel as second monitor. From there I setup custom resolution and turned off the overlaying as instructed on below article Correcting HDMI Colour on Nvidia and AMD GPUs | PC Monitors. https://pcmonitors.info/articles/correcting-hdmi-colour-on-nvidia-and-amd-gpus/ -After all this I switched the input from monitor and IT Worked couple of times. Now it's not working at all and I am currently running the screen via Vga port. It is really frustrating trying to figure if I bought a defective monitor or the connectors are to be blame. My system configuration is: Amd A10-5800k ASUS F2A55-M LK2 PLUS Mobo Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR3 1600MHZ Seasonic S12II 520 PSU Samsung 750 Evo SSD WD 500GB/1Tb drive & 2TB Seagate drive Asus Strix Gtx 960 2GB GPU Edit:Spelling
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I want to replace my matte 1920x1080 TN panel on my laptop that has a very bad response time and terrible viewing angles with a preferably glossy IPS panel. The Asus X555LB is a few years old but I am willing to put a little bit of money into upgrading it since I don't see myself buying a new laptop for a while, or at least my budget won't allow for it. I can spend around $65 on said compatible IPS panel. As far as I know, my laptop has a 15.6 inch 30-pin 1080p display. I am not sure if all 30-pin 15.6" panels are compatible since I have never replaced a laptop display with an aftermarket panel. -
Hey, so I'm going to have a presentation on monitors/displays in school and I just want to be sure in the info i have. Basically I want you to please make a "list" down below of all the screen types(CRT,LCD,OLED,...) and what panels they use(LCD: TN,IPS,...). I would really appreciate the help you give me... One of the things I would like to know is if the CRT is the oldest "computer" display that was used? I don't know a lot about all the things, so if there are any mistakes in the top text im sorry lol..
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So I am currently running an external monitor off the HDMI of my late 2013 13' MacBook pro retina, and for the last few days, since I never really found myself needing the second display of the MacBook itself, I closed the screen so it wasn't wasting power, but yesterday, as I was using discord on the MacBook display, I noticed when I opened a new tab that some of the UI had burnt in and looked kind of like an overlay onto whatever I was on. It was very minor, and hard to notice, but it was there. I also noticed two marks where the display is brighter in a way that looks like the LCD backlight got impacted there, even though to my knowledge there has been nothing that could've damaged it. I turned the brightness on the mac display all the way down so it was completely off, and after a while of being like this, the burn-ins were gone, but then leaving it sitting there for a bit more left some burn-ins of the dock UI. I have a suspicion that this could have been caused by the screen being heated during use, as it was closed on top of the cooling, but I'm not sure, because I don't know if heating really affects displays. Today the burn-in problem is gone as far as I can tell but does anyone know why it happened, or what the two marks are and if they can be fixed without going to apple and trying to reason with their "Genius Bar"? I've included some pictures showing the two marks on the display (sorry for the bad formatting this is my first post on a site like this)
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Hi all, I'm new to the forum thus I hope I'm posting this thread right. I have a problem with an old Dell laptop (dell xps 15z - L551z - ) with broken LCD. Given that now I own a new laptop, I would like to transform the old laptop into a desktop machine. In order to do so, I removed completely the screen in order to convert it into a smart keyboard! I did everything right, but I'm having a posting error while booting (8 beeps) due to the fact that Dell Laptop BIOS requires a functioning LCD panel connected to eh MoBo in order to complete the initial check. Is there a way to disable this BIOS check? I spent a lot of time googling here and there, but I didn't find an answer. I've never updated the BIOS since the buy, therefore I don't know if the problem is still there with newer BIOS. I hope to find a solution. Thank you in advance. Giovanni
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Dear Community, As this is my first Post/Topic here , I wanted to ask some experienced and expert people , rather than other webforums. I am currently building a gaming pc with an setup arround. Besides the hardware that I bought , my case arrived yesterday ( the Fractal Design Define R6 Black TG - the mercedes of the cases in my opinion ) . But at the exact day , my friend did sent me a link from ibuypower "the snowblind pc"..... from there on I did a research on google and youtube , to learn how to build this. Indeed , I have one monitor that I don't use anymore with the perfect size but does it work with my current R6 case ? Did any one of you guys tried this experiment ? I really REALLY want to build this , tho I have 0 knowledge about building that. I just want to know if this works with the R6 before i start to work in real. Im sure that I can build that in the end , saw much tutorials .
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Hi ya'll! Getting a new monitor and I am torn between these: 1. Benq EX3501R 2. Samsung LC34 °F 791 3. ASUS MX34VQ Designo Curved 34-inch UWQHD 4. ASUS ROG Strix Curved XG35VQ, It has to have these things: 34-35" or more 3440x1440 Freesync Somehow I lean towards the Benq but that's what you are here for - give me you opinion and if you think there is a better alternative to these let me know!
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So i just got my monitor back from repair, and all of a sudden its got this green flickering pixle, that goes away when i press on it. And then comes back after a few hours or so. Display : Acer GNL2....... something, its and lcd display, 1920x1080 at 144hz. Ive tried the youtube video that "can" fix dead pixles, but this doesnt seem to be a dead pixel, since it goes back to normal after i press on it ?
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Long story short, I'm trying to figure out a driver board solution to use a dell laptop touchscreen for a DIY arcade solution. I've ordered driver boards for laptop screens in the past and never had an issue finding them, but this dell inspiron 7737 screen is proving to be a problem. I don't want to pull the case apart to find the model of the actual lcd, and even if i did i still cant seem to find a solution to use the touchscreen as a usb input device. Any help would be great. Also the screen assembly part number is Dell 01nw4x
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This is an xpost from a youtube comment which in under 24 hours has shown some backing. Linus I know you're unlikely to hear this comment, but PLEASE help me out. Anyone reading, like this comment if you too are interested. TL;DR: PLEASE make an input latency comparison video on LCD vs CRT, just like you did for FreeSync vs GSync. I used to play COD on a huge CRT tv, and I will personally swear by the difference between playing on my family's 50" flatscreen. I think there could be a difference between a living room LCD and an LCD monitor, but I keep reading online that CRTs boast a 0ms input latency. The problem here is that LCD monitor companies like asus, acer, benq, hp, dell, and viewsonic ALL boast about their REFRESH RATES of 1-5ms. This stat IS relevant, as ghosting is a huge issue with LCDs in general, but it isn't the same in terms of INPUT LATENCY which gamers have to face in fast paced, reaction time based games like League of Legends. I saw your video on comparing Gsync to Freesync, and I found it very informational. Your setup was literally perfect. The LED circuit board inputting the fire command was GENIUS, and the 980 fps camera was exactly what you needed to truly test the problem. I would be IMMENSELY grateful for you to do a similar comparison video between your typical 1ms response time gaming LCD monitor and any sort of 85+Hz CRT monitor. I just dont have the kind of apperatus for testing like you do. With your level of popularity, who knows.
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Is there any good replacement screens for the iphone 5 for not too much money? Or should i buy a used/refurbished/dead iphone (but screen working) of ebay and use that screen to fix my existing phone? Edit: Idk if this is the right subforum to post this, correct me/report the post if im wrong
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so i had recently seen this video where someone put a lcd screen in their computer. he gave a link to a 5 inch lcd screen that he has directly sitting on the inside of his pc, and i wonder if that is hazardous in anyway to the motherboard of the LCD screen, or anything for that matter? (the reason i ask, is that i dont have a full TG case, but this is still something id like to invest in. i was considering propping it up on a ledge or something, for the time being)link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcNJA6V4tNY&t=236slink to LCD screen: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L6O2NEE/ref=ox_sc_...
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I have broken LCD panel on a Sony tv. I can't find the replacement for the panel its self online so I was wondering if I could ask y'all if you know of any panels that could take its place. It would be cool if the replacement is 4k but if not the. That's cool too.
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Hey everyone So here is my problem I am currently building a custom built gaming rig and I have a touchscreen lcd from a broken Lenovo IdeaPad s510 touch( i7 version) which I would like to turn into a touchscreen monitor so I can use it when I'm not gaming I did some research and only saw people doing this with non touch lcd What would I need to make this work? thanks in advance?
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I have an Acer Predator Ultrawide X34 LCD I bought a year or so ago. It overclocks to 90Hz. If I set it to 91Hz the screen blanks. Is it safe to run at 90Hz long term then? Or will it risk occasionally blanking out? I've been running it at 80Hz since the day I got it for the most part. I'm used to CPU's and GPU's that they can be finicky at that borderline clock speed, but wasn't sure if it was similar with LCD's or not.
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Hi, so I had a spare monitor and I wanted to do a custom DIY Project Snowblind (Samsung SyncMaster 191T) I have taken it apart up to the LCD screen and the main board. However, the LCD is not at all transparent, and I cannot see anything displaying on it once plugged in correctly (without backlight).
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I picked up one of those rebrand 'custom' Clevo laptops from eBay a few months back now and the screen has been incredibly problematic over the last few weeks. I can't pinpoint a specific moment when this started, but I know I questioned the build quality of this thing from the start. The screen was absolutely fine for many months, but I know I didn't trust the hinges from the start. The screen is cutting out (doesn't refresh, just slowly dims) and exhibits visual corruption that changes when you lightly push on different parts of the surrounding bezel. I've had the thing open in an attempt to ensure the ribbon cable was in properly, but nothing seemed to change. So now I face a difficult purchasing decision. With both parts being expensive to replace, is there any sure-fire way to know whether the screen is the problem or the cable that connects to it? I'll edit with example images soon. Forum attach doesn't give access to my phone gallery for some reason...
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Hi all, first post here! I read an iFixit article which mentioned that iPhone X-series phones are compatible with both the original flexible OLED panels and aftermarket LCD screens. I don't understand how this is possible given that the two technologies use different waveforms, but anyway, this seems like an excellent opportunity to test out claims that OLED is better or worse for battery life compared to LCD. I keep hearing that OLED + dark themes use very little power. Yet every OLED device I've owned has had poorer battery life compared to LCD. A display panel engineer at Tianma told me that this is because of unoptimized software and not because of hardware. This Vice article mentioned that the knock-off LCD panels for the iPhone run hotter and use more power than OLED. Yet the same article mentioned that there was no performance difference between LCD and OLED. However, Anandtech's analysis of the iPhone XR's battery life put it significantly above its OLED stablemates in screen-on time. Ultimately, it's not clear to me which panel gets better battery life. Could this be an opportunity to put claims about OLED vs LCD battery life on iPhone replacement screens to the test? Can someone just drop in an LCD panel into an iPhone XS and measure screen on time in order to test the battery life of OLED vs LCD panels? -
Hello my son bought me this computer to browse the internet and trade stocks with.Acer TC-780 Desktop Computer I currently have one Toshiba 32 inch LCD television hooked up to this computer. I would like to add at least 1 more 32 inch tv/LCD monitor. My question is, since there is only one Vga(i read up and this seems to be a very old way connect a monitor) and one hdmi attachment on the back of the desktop computer... Could I use an adapter to connect more LCD monitors/tv's to this desktop? Additionally, what is the maximum Lcd tv/monitors that my computer can handle, even if i need to buy some adapters to run it? Might I need to upgrade to another computer? If you check the link, no graphics card came with this computer(so not many connections on the back of the computer, just usbs, 1 hdmi, and vga) *edit* for example I found this adapter to maybe make use of the Vga attachment on the back of the desktop since I see no other hdmi slots on back of computer. ,vga adapter can my computer handle ? Thank you for your help.
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Hi, I just want to say that Canadians can't even buy the case and it sucks. When you go to the link provided with the video https://lmg.gg/Zp4Bj Newegg doesn't allow you to buy it or have it shipped to Canada. If you search on the Canadian version newegg.ca the case is nowhere to be found. I could use a forwarding service but that would cost me a 100$CAS to 150$CAD to have it shipped to my door from the US... Could you contact them and ask them to put it on the Canadian website, I could contact them but who Iam to ask them that and they probably wouldn't do it. But you guys have some weight and could maybe influence them to actually do it. I would rather pay in CAD instead of a conversion and have it shipped expressed for around 40 to 60$CAD. The case is 200$USD at the moment with a 30% off and that is 265$CAD so with a express shipping on the Canadian version it would be around 300$CAD.
