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Hi! I have an old 20" Asus monitor, a friend of mine give it to me saying that He never used it a lot. As you can see in the attached video, when I plug it in a socket the only thing that happens is a short blue LED and then nothing else. What can it be? Some component need to be change? Thanks to everyone who will answer. 20240408_152857_1.mp4

Hi, I have this issue with my MSI pulse GL66 where the screen keeps jumping and I would like some help in figuring out what the problem is, I connected it to an external monitor and there is no problem so I'm not sure what the issue is, thanks in advance. I attached a video to show an example of what is happening. VID-20240212-WA0011.mp4

I'm encountering a problem with my Thermaltake TH360 V2 Ultra AIO liquid cooler's LCD screen. the Thermaltake RGB app consistently reports "Controller not connected," preventing me from customizing the display. I've made sure everything is in properly, I updated the software and attempted various troubleshooting steps, but the issue persists. There is a USB cable that connects to the cpu coolers lcd there was 2 usbs to connected but only 1 cable could be connected to the CPU coolers lcd and I'm not sure what to do with the other USB side and ive connected the USB to the motherboard, I'm encountering a problem with my Thermaltake TH360 V2 Ultra AIO liquid cooler's LCD screen. the Thermaltake RGB app consistently reports "Controller not connected," preventing me from customizing the display. I've made sure everything is in properly, I updated the software and attempted various troubleshooting steps, but the issue persists. There is a USB cable that connects to the CPU cooler lcd there was 2 usbs to connected but only 1 cable could be connected to the CPU LCD, and I'm not sure what to do with the other USB side I've connected the USB to the motherboard Note: i am using my own fans and not the Thermaltake ones im using lian li sl120 LCD screen detection issues with this cooler, I would greatly appreciate your help. (windows 10)

Hi all I have problem I connected my AiO via usb-c to MB and white top cable to aio pump. Problem is lcd won't show in L-connect. Even after using utility restart as admin. I tried repluging cables etc . Anyone can help please Q.Q

Hi everyone, I recently pulled out my old Sony Vaio handheld PC VGN-UX180P from storage and decided to finally replace the cracked screen I broke back in high school (it was kicked on the ground...) and rendered the touch screen unusable. Its a pretty unique little computer, very ahead of its time in terms of features. It runs Windows XP (some later ones came with Vista), has two cameras, a slide up keyboard reminiscent of the old flip phones back then, supports SD cards and a SIM slot and a USB2.0 port. A cool gadget that I'd eventually like to find some use for... So I replaced my screen with a new one from EBAY, but there was an issue with the touch screen - touching anywhere on the screen would peg the mouse pointer to the top of the display, however, I can still move it left or right. I can't move the pointer up and down at all. Note that this only occurs when I touch the screen, I can still use the built in mouse stick to control the pointer while not touching it. Does this seem like an issue with the new display or a bad ribbon cable? I want to know if I should request a refund/replacement for it while I still can. I already tried re seating the ribbon cables and cleaning the contacts with IPA. I also noticed a single dead pixel in this new display, so I'm leaning towards it being a problem with the LCD. Thanks!

Hey everyone! This is my first time posting or even interacting on this forum but I just am not sure what to do anymore. Recently, I was one of the unfortunate people who encounter a bug(?) on my s22 ultra, samsung won't repair for free but I've heard a bunch of users on a subreddit having the same problem where I can't use the phone on 120hz without majority of my screen showing just white pixels, a temporary fix a lot of us have used is to just switch it to 60hz for the mean time but the colors are still off on 3/4s of my screen. I literally just left my phone in my office locker and it's like that by the time I checked it at lunch time.

Hello everyone. Just saw a video about CRT monitor in 5,25 drive bay, and just curious, if LCD display in 5,25 drive bay exist? It is available for sale anywhere or you can make it by yourself? And i mean, LCD not for monitoring temps, but a full size LCD (like 640x480 resolution at least). It would take 3 slots. I wouldn't mind putting one in NAS

A bit of context here. So I got back from the hospital about an hour ago, (I am fine) my little sister had an allergic reaction and I drove her down. I had been there for several hours and it turns out I left my PC on in my rush to leave. So, my display the Gigabyte G24F2 sat there with steam open in the center of the screen (covering maybe 50% of the screen) for I am guessing 6ish hours. The desktop background cycles about every 10 minutes, but that was the only part that was changing Steam, the desktop icons and the task bar were all static. Since I need to sleep at least a little before I go to work I just shit it down and power cycled the monitor. I did not bother to check it, but now I can't sleep with the anxiety my gaming monitor might be damaged. The brightness of the display is at 70% if memory serves. Incase that helps in some way.

I have been using my Monitor "AOC Q3279VWFD8" for a long while now for like 3-4 years or so and I started to notice this green tint appearing on my screen whenever It turns to fullscreen color black. It doesnt appear and I cant really see it when I am doing other things and its because i turned the brightness and contrast of my monitor very very low. (It protects me from eye strain so thats why I have my monitor set to brightness very low). But there is one thing that keeps bothering me. Is why the hell is the green tint always stuck to the fullscreen black color of my LCD screen and how do i fix it? What actually caused it and what I can do to prevent it? Here is the image of the green color appearing on the fullscreen black color of my LCD display which is turned to very high brightness. (But when it is at low brightness and I am browsing or playing games I rarely do see the green tints,It appears when the monitor is fullscreen black color or when its at very high brightness) Now any chance of getting rid of these annoying green tints or blobs on my screen? Thanks!

Greetings! I have a problem that seems to not be that common and couldn't find a fix after a little bit of searching, so I apologize in advance if I am duping a post. My monitor is flickering specifically when a game is loading or I am in a loading screen. It also flickers when using software like blender, adobe photoshop and unity for just light tasks. It doesn't constantly flicker though, excluding when something is loading in there it also flickers when hovering with my mouse cursor over the screen. It would have been fine if that occurred only when something is loading but it started bothering me when I became using creative software and it distracts me when doing my work. Defining my flickering- my screen seems to be changing the brightness upright(or maybe the gamma, because something scales up also on max brightness) a couple times a second(2-10) when loading something i.e. in a game, the game, a software, or using the software when moving my mouse and loading something in there. I will provide other information, images, or videos if desired. I will be very grateful if you come up with a solution for this. I've heard that the problem isn't really that rare, because it is not bothering gamers when they only see that in loading screens. That may be occurring on high refresh rate LCD panels but I digress. Specifications: Ryzen 5 5600x ryzen master simple recommended OC and smart access memory enabled in bois 16gb ram 3200mhz DOCP Rtx 3070 asus tuf no OC stable game ready driver version 531.18 Aoc c24g1 1080p, 144hz, with drivers from the manufacturer and overdrive on medium from its settings, display port to display port AsRock x570 phantom gaming 4, stable fairly recent(maybe the newest) bois version beQuiet system power 9 600w Windows 10 pro on SATA 2.5 SSD Kingston A400 480GB Theories and additional stuff: The cables and hardware is all seated properly. It is not a hardware issue except maybe the panel technology; I did use ddu when installing my graphics card; I have already did the simple settings like putting g-sync, max herz, and changing the monitor driver from the default windows generic pnp display; The screen doesn't have phisical damage except maybe standart stuff of ware that I haven't looked too closely lately on the panel; Although, I have thrown and hit accidentally the middle top part of the screen with the tip of a ballpoint pen and 5 pixels usynchronized with the colors and are either blue or black but that is an impossible reason for the flickering because I am sure that it was happening since the first day of the system; I have heard that PSU could cause this because some of the flickering problems are related to power. Mine is behaving kinda funny recently. Sometimes it starts doing some high pitch noise but that is probably the fan dying because it became louder than before; It's a curse. I do live a happy satisfying life but "God giveth, God taketh", right? Although I might get success in other beneficial initiatives but I am obliged to get a small counter to this by very tiny and only little irritating problems with my PC. I have had many others like this type and my mind is melting whenever I fix it; The small problems I am talking about might be because I am living in Bulgaria. The fact living here is not particularly the cause but the thing called "third quality" that here is common. The things sold here might be first use, but the quality that gets here is one that barely meets the standard (or maybe not even) for it to qualify for selling. I don't know what we are importing, but I know that we are one of the last in the line. The stuff is sailed first from eastern Asia to the USA, then from the USA to western Europe and only then it is our turn. It is known that it is common practice for the countries from the euro-atlantic cycle to screw us over a lot but I individually can not do anything for that right now. The stuff is so rigged that the problem may be because of the case light at that point... ⣿⣯⣿⣿⣿⣶⣶⣶⣶⣤⣤⣤⣀ ⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣷ 　　⠈⠻⣿⡛⠉⠭⠉⠉⢉⣿⣿⣧ ⠲⣶⠖⠄⠄⢿⣿⠄⠶⣶⣾⣿⣿⣿⣿⣧ 　　　⠺⢿⡗⠄⣹⣿⣿⠿⣟⣿⡏ 　　　　⠤⠤⢾⣿⣿⣿⣦⠘⡿ 　　⠈⢻⡿⣷⣶⣶⣤⣤⣤⣶⣦ 　　　⣽⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⡟ 　　　⠘⠿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿ 　　　　　⠉⠉⠛⠋

I'm having trouble finding good documentation on best practices for the LCD side panel case mod I've seen a lot, does anyone have recommendations on guides or resources?

VLC allows showing a video in its original soze, or doubling the size. For 480p content, this works on a monitor resolution height of 960 or more. But it seems to only allow this setting in windowed mode. Also, minimal imterface still shows window borders and other distractions. I want "full screen" to work as a blanking mechanism to just show the video in the output setting of original or double, and hide everything else. I must be missing something. For those of you wondering why someone wouldn't want full height video, is that some resolutions don't evenly match others. 480 video in full-frame 4:3 is (you already know). so on a 1080p monitor, a full screem 480p video is not properly represented, pixel for pixel. Somewhere along the line, the image is being stretched or manipulated. I have tried for a couple minutes to zoom in extensively, and look for any abnormalties in 480p stretched to 1080p height, and I couldn't find any noticable distortions. I thought I would, but I'll keep testing. I have a feeling this is more important than we can visually perceive with our eyes. Just because we are completely unaware of the very un-noticable distortions, does not mean we should blatantly ignore them. The very same goes for watching low resolution 480p shows, or movies, at full height 1080p on streaming services. Unless they are cropping pixel at the top and bottom, then all viewers are subject to pixel interpolation--in fact I'm not sure that would fix interpolation eithwr. 480 is just not a multiple of 1080 so the only way to do it right is to have letterbox borders--just having the option would be enough. It may seem picky, but I think this is an issue that deserves so much more awareness. We all spend hundreds or a couple hubdred on high-quality TVs, only for the content on them to be distorted by the video streaming platform. No network will ever give a care about something they, nor you nor I can actually perceive, so it won't change, but I think we should still be aware and understand this issue.

Hello, So i was wondering if it's possible to attach a 30 pin connector of the LCD monitor to the 40 pin socket of the Dell Inspiron 15 5558. Since my monitor of the laptop broke and i don't need a touchscreen for it, an LCD would suffice. So im curious if it would work connecting it this way. Or if i would need to pay double for a replacement touchscreen instead of a normal LCD.

Hello! I want to seek some help and guidance regarding the laptop I bought earlier this year, last July specifically. It was a great deal. I was endorsed with a ROG Zephyrus G15 GA502IU-AZ077T model with a Ryzen 7 4800HS + Radeon Graphics, Nvidia GTX1660 Ti with max-q design GDDR6, 16 GB of ram rated @ 3200mhz and a 1080p @240hz 3ms screen. By the time I settled my transaction with the seller, all went well. The package came 2 days upon payment and as soon as I tested the unit, I notice an issue regarding the display it came up with. I was looking for the 240hz option for the refresh rate, but I was unfortunate to locate it. After some setup and a little bit of modification, I thought of the display drivers, thinking the 240hz option will pop out as soon as I update it to the latest driver, but it didn't do anything. I checked every device information regarding my display, and it is showing a resolution of 3840 X 2160 @ 60hz as recommended. I scrolled through other options like, setting my display on 1080p, hoping the 240hz option will pop out, but it doesn't appear so. I was thinking, did the 1st owner swapped out his/her display panel? or this issue can be solved through another possible way? If so, I hope this community can help me with my issue. Thank you.

When using the display I notice uniformity problems with whites, especially in the middle (clouding) and right side (slight reddish tint in whites), it is even more noticeable when using Windows Night Light or any similar software. How normal is this for an IPS panel? Previous monitors from other brands and models had dead pixels and this one finally doesn't have any, so I plan to keep this one. Here are some photos. White Uniformity with Windows 10 Night Light On: White Uniformity with Windows 10 Night Light Off:

I plan to go to the store either today or tomorrow to see them with my own eyes, I don't recall how they look hehe, I want to buy one soon For those who have OLED, how good is it compared to LCD and LED displays?

First time poster to the forums. Bought laptop in 2020, used primarily for watching videos with occasional gaming and productivity. Went to nap and when I woke up, this is what happened. Should I go to a repair shop and replace the display? I tried fiddling with the display settings and nothing has changed.

Hi, I recently found this black/grey pixel on my asus tuf vg27vq and I don't really know what it is. Depending of viewing angle its either fully black, grey or perfectly fine and what color or content is displayed does not matter. Also I found out that it's "behind" display. As shown in the photos depending from viewing angle its either above the mouse, to the left or to the right. Mouse is in the same spot on desktop. I tried everything - tapping, pressure, stuck pixel sites and videos for hours and it only got a little bit better. What can I do about it? Is it a pixel or very unlucky case of dust under display?

I'm just starting to look into liquid cooling and custom setups seem like a really fun way to go. I'm confused at one thing though, all the custom setups seem to have CPU blocks with the tubes connected to the front and no screens of any kind whereas many AIO options have LCD screens. Why is that, and are there any non AIO options with LCD screens?

I'm planning to upgrade the screen for my Gameboy Advance to an LCD screen. The upgrade requires me to solder some wires to the motherboard, in order to get brightness adjustment. Is there any soldering iron that anyone can recommend for a newbie like me? I know there's other threads on this topic, but I'm not sure if there's soldering irons for specific tasks. Here's the link to the LCD Screen: https://handheldlegend.com/collections/game-boy-advance-gba/products/game-boy-advance-gba-ips-funnyplaing-v2?variant=31583104630918

Bought a used ipad 7gen for 90$. Im not to familiar with ipads. And was wondering if you guys can tell if its the lcd or digitalizer thats broken here?

Hello, I know this might be a bit technical and overly specific for this forum, but I’m looking for some ideas to help diagnosing a problem with my computer monitor. Just over 3 years ago I bought a chg90 plugged it into one of those power saving surge protectors that cuts power to the monitor when the computer shuts down and haven’t worried about it since. It was working great, up until a couple of weeks ago, when I powered everything up and the image was distorted. It had vertical bands and strange purple and green coloring. I powered it off with the power button and OSD (unfortunately no dedicated power button that I know of) and then powered it right back on, It came back on looking like normal and I proceeded to use it. That happened a couple of more times, each time only when powering up. Once running correctly, it continues to do so until powered off. So that brings me to last night, when I powered up my computer (automatically powering up the monitor as well) and the entire screen is distorted. Obviously, the problem is getting worse, and I would rather fix the monitor than throw it away. I am more than capable of opening it up and replacing parts, as well as some light soldering work. Now that the story section is over, let me give you the bullet points: I am a couple of months out of warranty The main logic board seems mostly fine, even when the screen is messed up powering it off via OSD still works(though I had to memorize the button presses because the OSD does not display) and if I plug headphones in, I get the audio that is fed through the HDMI input. When the picture is all messed up, sometimes you can see the image that is supposed to be displayed under the distortion After powering it off then on again, (with the power button, not pulling the cord) it comes back perfect almost all of the time and on the rare occasion that it doesn’t one more power cycle seems to do it. My current guess is that is it the T-board or the power supply (slowly dying), but it is strange to me that a couple of power cycles will get it back working. I will try to attach a picture of what it looks like when it is messed up. Any input would be appreciated, this is the first time I have tried to repair an LCD display. Thank you,

I've got a Gigabyte G27FC and cracked its screen recently and want to replace it does anyone know this monitor's Panel (LCD) model and how I can disassemble the monitor pls?

As the title suggests, I want to ask if this issue is fixable if I replaced the screen? I'm worried that a cable or something else must be replaced. screenGL552VX.mp4

So I want to know how does such company operate? how can one setup shop for this and sell on amazon? when is LTT talking about such brands? https://hankai.en.made-in-china.com/product/gZLAMVmlJxWI/China-32-Inch-4K-Monitor-for-Graphic-Design-Type-C.html