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Hello There. My PC has a Codename called Project Hyperion. But i want an actual Name for my Project PC. Can you Please Help Me here?

So when I quit certain steam games (portal 2, csgo, insurgency, and tf2), or press alt-tab or the windows key, the game goes away and just shows a black screen. No button I press, neither alt-tab, alt-f4, or anything (i even downloaded superF4 and using it yields no results), will close the screen, forcing me to restart my computer. I initially though that it was only valve games, but it happens with insurgency and doesn't happen with left 4 dead 2, which is really wierd Any potential fixes?

Hello, Today I bought a 1080p monitor LG flatron w2453v pf and I was watching some youtube videos and i noticed that all the shadow have wired lines in them and some colors freek out and dots in them i have change the contrast brightens and restored it to factory settings, its not overclocked ether and I tried multiple cables and ports its only this monitor my other one works fine. So if you can and help me that would be Great thanks

Sorry i got this issues 2 daya ago when i startup my PC , BIOS just reset the date , so i have to manage it again and again. then, when i press save and exit. PC wont restart. So i must force shutdown it. So i start the pc again then i just pass the BIOS settings. Manage the date from windows. But when i do gaming , my pc went black screen. i can hear the fan spinning , my lan blinking , and when i press my keyboard. its blinking too ( RGB keyboard) so if someone cant identify what problem is. I will be thankful for that

My GTX 780 ti has been repeatedly ceasing video output across all its ports. I believe this started around the time I installed driver update 382.05, at first I thought it was Fallout 4 due to reading that it caused driver issues for some in the past. I'll be adding in some of my correspondence to the owner of the 780 ti which I am borrowing. The fans only only went to max that second time, I have not seen that behavior since. Note that the GPU has never ceased output during a game. I haven't tried a new PCI-E slot or opened my computer case. I'm saving that for last after I've exhausted software options. From the fan exhaust area I can see that the 780 ti is lit even after ceasing output. I completely uninstalled my nvidia drivers. Though when I installed the 378.92 drivers fresh the installer was showing me that a 382.xx driver was still installed. I thought it worked as of last night since I had no problems until I started Premiere, after about thirty seconds output ceased. Restarting my computer does not work consistently. Often there is no output, and twice I've gotten a black screen with a white line with a few blue and green dots (photo attached) after the boot screen (from different outputs). After a longer length of time I can turn the computer back on and everything is fine. So that's where I am now. If there's anything more on the software side I could check I'd like to. System specs below: Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4S CPU: i7 6700k (factory clocks) RAM: g.skill ripjaws V DDR4 3000MHz GPU: nVidia GTX 780 ti ("founders edition") Power Supply: EVGA Supernova G3 650w Gold Storage: 250GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD and 2TB HGST/Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 7200rpm OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit Everything had been running smoothly since March 12th with no issues. Please let me know if there's any other information I can provide. Thanks in advance!

Hi, I want to buy a mew headset for preferably under 30 euros, I live in germany. Ive got the MSI B350 Pc mate mobo and.im not sure which headsets fit I mainly want to use them for.gaming, so no echoing is a must have

PC specs: 1060 3gb (oc) I5 6400 120 GB Samsung 850 EVO 8GB 2133MHz RAM I want to upgrade my storage...would a WD Blue be a bottleneck? I can get a 500GB WD Black for about $20 more than a 1TB WD Blue, what should I do?Thx

Hi guys . I ran into a problem. When I booted my windows 10 laptop it reached login screen normally. After the welcome screen there is only a black screen with movable cursor. I have also contacted microsoft forums. link:https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-performance/black-screen-with-cursor-after-login/e2063bb0-fe7b-4d14-90b1-9538ca9af4fa?rtAction=1491030062141 here are the things i have done but to no success -Fast startup is not a feature of my laptop. -high contrast disabled -ctrl alt delete button oppens the window in which we have to choose task manager but after clicking on task manager it just returns to the black screen. -i have tried projecting on another display changing settings (using windows key+p) no success -I HAVE ALSO TRIED RESETING MY LAPTOP BUT STILL THE PROBLEM PERSISTS -automatic startup repair doesnt work -have tried unplugging all things and battery and stuff . -entering safe mode unisntalling display adapters 1 by 1 and together. -I have alao tried system restore and installation media to repair If any of you have encountered same or similar problem and have solved it using a different method from the above ones plz do let me know.

So today I decided that I need a new Storage device because my WD Blue 1 tb Drive is full. At the Retailer of my trust (more or less, didn't want to wait for delivery so I went to "Media Markt") I wanted to buy a WD Blue 2 tb drive. But examining the packaging I read something about the WD Black being optimized for gaming, at least that's what they are marketed for in Germany. The problem is that i pay almost double for a WD Black 1tb instead of 2tb WD Blue storage. So my question is: How significant, if at all, is the difference between a WD Blue and a WD Black, and where are the differences? Sincerely heulboje21/Paul G PS: I hope my english was bearable...

I need a team of geeks to tell me what I did wrong with this build plan: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/y2YhKZ If you could criticize me for things I did wrong. I'm staying with the SteelSeries black and white plan. If there are things I did wrong here lemme know pls, I think it's a powerful and beautiful build personally.

Title says it all. Using it for storing games and recording some video onto it.

Hey guys i'm in a hunt right now for a best speakers that has blue/black theme my max budget will be $200, if it's exceed on the budget please recommend it too. Thanks

for the ones of you that use Corsair Dominator memory - what do you think?

So I've got a question. I need a new HDD soon seeing as I'm really close to being out of space on my 1TB. The question I've got is will I notice a significant difference between the 5400RPM on the WD Blue 2TB vs the 7200RPM WD Black 2TB? This'll be used for my entire steam library, keeping the 1TB WD Blue I have for media and casual stuff. The only reason I ask is because the WD Black 2TB costs quite a bit more than the WD Blue 2TB.

I've been waiting for that day for months. And finally Black Angel became a reality <3 Parts List: (also on PcPartPicker https://pcpartpicker.com/b/mxhqqs) I7-6700K Oc’d to 4.5GHz 1,31V NZXT Kraken X61 (+ Noctua NT-H1) Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR4 CL16 2400MHz 32GB (2x16GB) Asus GTX1080 STRIX 2x HyperX Savage 240GB in RAID 0 WD Red 3TB EVGA 650GQ V2 NZXT S340 Mods List: NZXT HUE+ LEDs Corsair SP120 PWM & AF140 Quiet Edition Fans Custom Painted: - PCI-E Brackets - SSD Trays - Kraken X61 waterblock mounting ring - Cable Managment Bar - PSU Bracket Wrapped with carbon fibre: - SSDs - Part of GPU backplate - Visible side of the radiator Sleeved cables: - ATX, EPS, 2x PCI-E – Phanteks Black/White (With cable combs) - USB 2.0, HD AUDIO – Bitfenix Alchemy White You can watch TIMELAPSE PC BUILD on my YouTube channel: OKAY, NOW MY EXPERIENCES. Build went nice, even though it took me almost whole day. Why? Well, firstly I removed all of parts to spray paint: - PCI-E Brackets - Power Supply Brackets - SSD Trays - Cable Shroud - NZXT Kraken X61's mounting ring And, when I got to painting which went quite nice BTW, it had to dry for next our, be covered with another layer of paint, and then I had to wait 2 hours till it dried completely. Then I started a job with carbon fibre. I took quite some time to cut out a form of SSDs, but GPU's one went smoothly. So after this modding work I started building a PC itself. Build was really nice and wasn't a problem to do. Only think that was kinda pain in the *** was cable managment; I mean, with all that cable extensions there was much more clutter behind the PSU, coz I had to fit in all length of PSU cables itself and a half of PCI-E extension cables as well. After completing the build I of course plugged in power cord and pressed this magic button. System launched with no problems, I created a RAID 0 aray of my 2 HyperX Savages and installed Windows 10 on it. I also installed all of drivers and software (including CAM for my Kraken and HUE+). I had a problem with Kraken, pump was kinda buzzing/rattling. I searched the net and found out that it should work on full-speed all the time, and problem should be gone. So I put it on 100% with CAM software, and it wasn't really hearable anymore, weird noise was gone, but the fans also were 100% and PC sound like a rocket engine. I had to solve it somehow. I decided to use a molex 12V -> fan adapter, to give the pump full power and RPM. I used the molex splitter provided with NZXT S340 case, but i had to file off a part of it, coz pump had 4PIN connector, molex splitter only 3PIN. This worked out pretty well, I used this power and set CAM to 100%, plugged Kraken radiator fans to motherboard CPUFAN1 & CPUFAN2 headers, set the RPM curves in the BIOS, and finally achieved silent pump, and nicely working fans. But this doesn't change fact that NZXT should have put more work on CAM software, allowing you to set the pump speed manually, and independently of the fans. And the last imperfection I noticed. When I installed ASUS GPU Tweak II with AURA RGB control I had (& still have) problem with setting up white color. The ROG logo on the GPU backplate does reproduce white correctly, on the visible side of the card, where the ROG logo and text is placed, as well as LEDs next to GPU fans, white looks more violetish. It's something that destroys colors theme of the build a bit when I want it to be fully black-white. Anyway, the PC looks sick in some color combos as well. For now it's runnig HUE+ on breathing mode on white, and Kraken, as well as GPU LED's are on fixed mode with red color. That's a really nice combo, but PC looks good also with some green, blue and violet as well. Long story short I'm pretty happy with the build, I've been waiting for so long. CPU Idle: 18C CPU Load: 64C CPU Clock: 4,5GHz CPU Voltage: 1,31V GPU Idle: 35C GPU Load: 72C GPU Clock: 2,09GHz GPU Mem: 10,78GHz 3DMark FireStrike Score: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/15545056 Report Follow comments

I just had my pc resetted and after installing chrome I realised that whenever I alt+tab from the desktop to chrome it just goes dark... Anyone knows how to fix this? Thanks in advance

Screen Shuts off (cuts to black) mostly while running video games but sometimes after a restart it does it even when not in a game. Tried flashing the BIOS on the mobo and problem still persists. Any help would be appreciated. Rig info OS: Windows 10 64 bit CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K MOBO: ASUS SABERTOOTH z77 mobo \ Version 15.33.38.4252 2015/09/23 (It's the most recent version) \ BIOS was updated on 12 Aug 2017 GPU: ZOTAC GeForce GTX 970 4GB PSU: XFX P1850SNLB9 Core Edition Power Supply / 850W - 80 Plus Bronze RAM: Patriot G2 Series Desktop Memory Kit - 8GB (2 x 4GB) PC3-12800, DDR3 1600MHz

Hi Guys, first i hope this is the correct section, because its a laptop, but still a technical problem? if not someone please move or so, thanks! Problem is the following: ( Specs etc below) My Acer convertible R13-372T-2017 used to work perfectly fine with preinstalled win 10 at the start. After some months this problem started: after closing the lid and letting the laptop go into energysaving mode, the screen just stays black when reopening the lid. Problem ist constistent, it happens everytime when closing the lid, pressing the energysaving mode or pressing the power button. Its not just energysavingmode but also hibernating-mode. I know the laptop itself is still working behind the turned off screen because the keyboardlights turn on and when blindly entering the password and then using alt-f4 to turn it off it does actually turn off. Either doing this or just holding the power button for 5 seconds works to reset it and boot it again, in these cases it works perfectly until i try to go energysaving mode again. When choosing the option only turn off screen when closing the lid it works like normal, so no problems when reopening. What i have tried so far: -Changed almost all of the energysaving settings , like disabling energysaving completely -changing to maximum power mode -In advanced energysettings: disabled turning off the harddrive, disabled adaptive brightness, disabled hybrid Standbymode -tried Pressing the FN-Button combinations to set the screen to a different monitor or disabling screen while it was black -Some other things i cant remeber anymore^^ after i made a lot of changes i used the Windows feature to reset windows to factory mode without loosing your files twice from different places within the windows settings afterwards i changed a lot of the above mentioned settings again. Specs: Acer Aspire(?) R13-372T-2017 Windows 10 Home x64 version 1703 i5-6200U 2.4Ghz Intel hd 520 8gb ram Now thank you a lot for reading, i hope my english is okay and im hoping you guys have some tips etc to help me. If you want any other information just ask i will try to answer asap. Oblivior

So most of the time (which is really annoying) my laptop's screen turns to a light black screen every time I either close then open the lid, restart, shut down and boot up again, or try and boot into the boot menu. The keys still work and when I log in blind the second monitor displays just fine, and when I'm just interacting with the laptop display I can hear my actions taking affect, for example if I had a YouTube video open I can play the video, pause it, fast forward or rewind, mute the volume etc. If I was in a word document, I can type characters and drag the Microsoft Word window into the second display and see what I've typed. I originally thought it was booting up to the wrong display when turning on but it still occurs when my second monitor is disconnected, still occurs when I set the laptop screen as my primary display, which it already was, also when I set the second display as my primary display, the laptop screen is still light black, and when logging in the boot menu doesn't appear but the log in screen appears perfectly fine on the second display, it still happens when I only enable one of the two gpus in my laptop and when I enable both, and I tried uninstalling both display adapters and reinstalling them then updating their drivers, but that didn't work. Someone suggested DDU but I'm afraid that might not work either, but I'm going to try it later. Here are videos of what I'm talking about. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1Ux7FnDisigQUhCUTRBbWExT0U https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1Ux7FnDisigc2dwWW1ESWtQSXM https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1Ux7FnDisigd19TVkh4OHBPUU0 My laptop is a Razer Blade 14 (2014) Can someone help?

Here are the parts that I picked out so far. I have already purchased the GPU (because it was on sale for $450), I have a 500 GB SSD, and two monitors listed below. PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/CMRcD8 Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/CMRcD8/by_merchant/ CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($308.87 @ Amazon) CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($289.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Dark Rock 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($59.90 @ Newegg Marketplace) Motherboard: MSI - Z270-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.49 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($139.99 @ Best Buy) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB WINDFORCE OC 8G Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon) Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Monitor: Lenovo - LI2221s 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor (Purchased For $0.00) Monitor: Dell - S2716DG 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $868.62 Total: $794.24 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available --- Here's what I had in mind for my build: Gaming at 1440p with a 144hz monitor for any and all games Minor Video Editing, 16 GB is fine for now, but would like the ability to upgrade to 32 GB in the future by adding 2 more sticks. Would like a sleek, dark, subtle look with white/bright accents mostly on the inside. Subtle RGB lighting would be a plus, nothing overstated. White or bright colors would be preferred. --- And here are some additional notes about my preferences: General Preferences: Black/White or bright colors, but the case may be fully black/dark. Again, RGB would be nice if it matches color schemes. Motherboard: 4 RAM slots, USB Type-C would be nice, support for DDR4-3000 + RAM. Not sure if SLI/Crossfire would be needed. RAM: DDR4-3000 or better. CPU: Another component I'm not sure about. Put down the 7700k just to be safe, but I don't know if AMD Ryzen would be the better choice considering what I want to do. GPU: I got my GPU for $450. It was a great price, but I'm wondering if I should sell it and get a Ti. I don't think I would mind gaming at Medium settings for higher FPS, so I don't know if the extra $200+ would be worth it. Another benefit would be having a Ti that would better match my build look. Case: Couldn't find an amazing case, but the case I chose is the closest to what I would like my build to look like. Subtle RGB would be a plus, and I wouldn't mind paying a bit of premium for it. Cooling: Would love to try out water cooling, but I've never done it, and I have no idea how much a good looking water cooling system would cost. --- Would you guys be able to suggest some (perhaps RGB) parts for me to use? Maybe a better looking case as well? Thanks so much for your help in advance

Over the course of a few years, I got a small budget setup going. It works well for me and coincidentally everything I have is black, red and/or white. So I'm wondering if you guys have any suggestions on how to make my current desk/table black (I really do not want to try painting it). Desk Specs: - 35.5 inches wide, 29.5 inches long, 1 inch thick - Wooden desk with some sort of nice, glossy finish

While playing games my screen turns black and loos the connection from my computer. My computer runs but the DVI connection gets lost. And then I have to shut it down. Recently I have updated Geforce Experience to Version 385.69. It did not happen before. If somebody could talk to me with discord that would be great. Thx

What case is this? Im curious because my friend was building a pc for my other friend and got mad cuz he couldnt get it to post with the i7 (he had no cooler on it ×.× fried it.) And he took everything out and threw the case off the 2 story deck... Well i went to go grab it and i asked him if i could have it. He said yeah. I cant find a model number anywhere so im at a dead stop. Ill add some pictures.

I recently built this PC and I went for a red/black color scheme. I wanted to replace the white Cryorig CPU cooler fan (Cryorig QF120 Balance) and the black exhaust fan (random Phanteks 3pin fan) with something more fitting the color scheme. I do kind of like how the white Cryorig fan looks when the RGB light hits it (at certain RPMs it forms some cool colored swirls), but still I think I'd prefer something more consistent. So basically I need 2 120mm fans that are either identical or at least from the same brand/series. The Cryorig Balance fan has a middle road max CFM and static pressure, so I think the replacement doesn't necessarily need to be a static pressure fan. As for RGB/LED, do you think a red glowing fan would even look good? I kind of think the case RGB lighting provides enough ambient lighting. As for cost, I would like the 2 fans together to be under $50 CAD.

Hi everyone, I'm having problems with my pc, and I have no idea how I could fix this. So yesterday I tried to reset my pc, at 99% the screen went black (without cursor). I turned the pc off and tried again which resulted in the exact same thing. I thought that safe mode might solve this problem and what happened is that whenever I got the pc in safe mode the exact same black screen came up. So I tried to force windows to safe boot by typing "bcdedit /set {default} safeboot network" in the cmd. So now every time I start my pc, I get this black screen (because it's booting in safe mode) Can anyone help me fix this, please?