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Hello, I have been experiencing some issues with my Asus GA35DX lately it has Ryzen 7, X570, 64GB RAM, 1TB SSD + 3TB HDD, WiFi 6, 750W Gold PSU (Gpu is an Asus Tuf 3080) there is a white light and it sometimes does not want to turn on. I received this yesterday, the first issue was it did not turn on after I took it out of the box when I disconnected the USB dock I had purchased that had my keyboard and mouse connected it decided to turn on (I looked at my manual and saw that I had to plug it there and even checked other ports with the same problem) it was also posting a light that I searched up for asus motherboards that had an issue with the ram but I simply powered it down and waited a bit and never saw that light. I also updated my drivers and had the same problem with the white light. I have also been seeing that my gpus performance is terrible about 150 fps on the ground on Fortnite (on medium and epic settings same results). As well as my Microsoft store not letting me download apps and is stuck at "pending". Also, I have never had my gpu fans spin. LTT LTT (2) LTT 3 LTT 4

So recently my headphones broke and I'm searching to buy a new headphones up to 40 Euro and these are my options: https://www.instar-informatika.hr/market/40/offer/?catef=1699&minPrice=26&maxPrice=45&pr=1 https://www.links.hr/hr/slusalice-010706#/specFilters=1756!#-!11711&prFilter=From-12!-#!To-70 https://www.jeftinije.hr/L3/353/racunalna-oprema/slika-i-zvuk/slusalice-i-mikrofoni?craz=BZ13Z40 Razer kraken X and Razer BlackShark V2 X caught my eye on the 3rd link 35-40 euro HyperX cloud stinger 2 core on 2nd link 29 Eur Redragon H848 IRE PRO for 30 euro I could go up to 50 euro to buy Asus Tuf H3 or H1 on 1st link There's also Razer Kraken v3 X USB in store nearby for 50 euro

Hey there! I am planning on changing my pc's case with the Asus Prime AP201 but can't figure out a sensible airflow. Would the one in the attached image be a good setup? I am afraid there would be too much positive pressure but otherwise there would be scarce intake since the bottom fans are only blowing air to the GPU.

So I had an Intel core i7-6700k CPU, which is an lga2011v3 socket. I was excited when I found an Asus Rampage V Extreme motherboard at a good price on Craigslist and couldn't wait to start my new build. However, the 6700K CPU does not fit that board. I was confused because all of the literature online says that the RVE is a 2011v3 board. I called Asus customer support and they, too, said it was a version 3 board. I was merely trying to make sure I didn't damage the board or the CPU trying to fit a square peg into a round hole. To further confuse the issue if you look at the board it very clearly is stamped "Lga 2011", NOT ""Lga 2011v3". I pointed this out to the customer service agent and he kept repeating what he was reading from the online product documentation. It was kind of crazy. I kept repeating to him that I understood what he was saying and that I had read the same product specs straight off from the Asus website but that I was looking at an actual real live motherboard and it was contradicting the official product info. We went round and round, back and forth and he would say he understood what I was saying but kept sending me a link to the Asus webpage for downloads for a board that I didn't have. I wasn't mad or anything, just perplexed as to what in the hell was going on. To be clear, I was a little miffed that I was going to have to buy another motherboard OR another CPU, finish the build and then sell the components that I didn't need, OR buy both a 2011 compatible CPU AND a 2011v3 compatible motherboard, and case and RAM and GPU etc .. So of course I go all in. I mean, who wouldn't?? So...long story...I thought that I was done with all of that until a friend was telling me I should've gotten a Xeon E5 2960 V2, which is supposed to be an lga 2011 socket type. But I just saw on Wikipedia it's an lga 2011v3 ??? I mean, WTF!!! These are simple questions. Is this CPU a 2011 or a V3? Same with the board. If they have different architectures and the CPU doesn't fit the socket then it's one and not the other. End of story. Why is this so hard for Asus and Intel two get this straight and why do I seem to be the first and only person to have encountered this problem?!? C'mon, people!!! Let's get it together!!! I swear to God, if I buy that Xeon CPU and it doesn't fit I'm going to be pissed off the entire time I'm building yet another computer that I don't need I mean this is getting ridiculous. I've already got four effing setups. I DO NOT want or need another computer!!!

Specs: Mobo: ASUS ROG Strix B550-F CPU: Ryzen 9 5900x RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB (2x16GB) GPU: GeForce GTX 1070 AERO ITX 8GB OC PSU: CoolerMaster 600W Hi all, first post here! So, I recently upgraded my PC with a new motherboard and CPU(the ones listed above). I am having issues getting a display on the monitors, prior to this upgrade the pc had a Ryzen 7 1900 and a GA-AB350 Gaming 3 Motherboard with no issues, simply wanted to upgrade. The lights on the motherboard are as follows after pressing the power button: Green (BOOT) light and White (VGA) light which are constantly on. The monitors definitely work and I have tried different cables and also tried reseating the components. I initially thought I might have inserted the GPU incorrectly but it was fine, everything is seated as it should so I have no idea. I have also attempted to clear the CMOS, I tried to use the jumper and also by removing and reinserting the CMOS battery. Nothing has worked so far. I bought new HDMI cables that will arrive today, will update if anything helps. This has consumed half of my day and I have no idea what to try next, any help would be appreciated.

I’ve been using my rx6700s g14 for just over a year now with no problems but about three months ago all of the sudden I was getting horrible performance across the board in games. It looks like the GPU is having random dips in utilization from around 90-100 all the way down to 10-20. I’ve also noticed that the CPU is only at around 20% utilization. Is that normal?

I have 2 RT-AX55 in aimesh, one as the main router and one as a node using 5ghz back haul. I get this extremely weird aimesh dropout where the node seemingly disconnects and I lose connection to the majority of the internet except I can still connected to my windows server pc on the main router from the node. The dropout lasts about 2-5 minutes and happen maybe 0-3 times a day, but the following connections still work from a computer connected to the mesh node with Ethernet: - Remote desktop connection to a windows server connected to the main router. - SMB network drive share to the same windows server. - Gradio hosted local webui. (except the font seems to not load and becomes a default serif font) As expected, every other internet usage that needs to reach the main router stops working, including wifi on the mesh node. I've tried factory rests and updating firmware, this has been an issues for maybe over half a year now since I got the pair of routers set up. I am considering upgrading both routers, but in the mean time, this bug is quite annoying. To add: I have near ideal connection through two windows at 15m and negligible neighbor 5ghz interference.

Hey everybody! edit: I'm so sorry for such a long post, really needed to vent this First of all I'm sorry if this is the wrong place to post this kind of thing, it's literally my first post here. I'm not sure if I need/want help at this point, just really want to vent my experience and break down what happened to get some inputs/feedback if there are any. English is not my first language so I'm sorry if I say anything silly. About a month ago I bought a 2022 Asus Zephyrus G15 GA503RS laptop on a physical IT store nearby. It came with 16GBs of RAM and an empty slot. As I was buying it, I asked the store guy to get me a compatible 32GB ram stick, and ended up getting a "Team Group SO-DIMM 32GB DDR5 4800Mhz Elite CL40" so that I could upgrade it to 48GBs. Once I arrived home and was opening the laptop to install the new ram stick, I noticed the seal was broken. I should've just stopped there and see it as a red flag, but thought maybe they just opened it to test something and didn't think too much about it at the time. (but I did take a photo just in case) The laptop came with no operating system. My intention was to run Linux on it since it's what use on my daily job, but eventually decided to install Windows just to make sure everything was working properly. At first I didn't get any issues with the laptop (was just installing stuff / setting up my environment / there was no real work load on it), but after a week or 2 I had to go to the office and finally got to use it properly. Shortly after running VirtualBox on it and get some work done, the computer froze and got some screen artifacts. There was nothing I could do, so had to force shut down. Once it came back to life I started looking for possible GPU problems on reddit, and shortly after it froze again. 590f3e.mp4 Since the laptop came with no OS, I gave it the benefit of the doubt and thought maybe I screwed up installing the drivers, and on the following days I spent some time making sure everything was properly installed. I've assembled my previous 3 desktops, have an engineering degree and my previous (still functional) laptop, a Toshiba L850 has been up a running for the past 11 years with all the maintenance (and several replaced parts) done by me, so the Tech in me tried to "solve the problem" instead of playing dumb and just returning it to the store. After double checking everything, the laptop would sometimes still crash. I disabled sleep mode since it also seemed to be an issue (it would sleep and not come back) and from time to time it would also freeze on the boot logo (before getting to the BIOS) e04209.mp4 Shortly before the 30 days return policy and since I was going to return it without the ram stick, I gave it a last shot and tried to run MemTest86 to see if there were any obvious red flags. 41 seconds into the test (booted from a USB drive, so there was on OS / drivers in play) the laptop froze once again. I then removed the extra ram stick, ran everything, and... after 2hours, it PASSED. I then went to the store and tried to explain the whole troubleshoot process, gave them images/proof and told them to consider a faulty ram stick or a faulty ram slot. I didn't find the original package for the ram stick, but I had a couple anti-static bags from HDs at home, so I did a nice package to transport it. They said something like "We can't declare it as Dead On Arrival since you already installed an extra stick, but we will send it to Asus RMA" Well... I kinda understand that I "tampered with the device", but how would I find out about a faulty slot without ever using it? Or a fault ram stick without using it? It's like buying a new motherboard, attaching stuff to it (it's what they're made for) and then have some guy saying "well, now that you changed the variables, we can't promise you anything" At the time I was like "Yeah well, whatever, just put everything I said and done on the report and send it to Asus". I'm aware that Asus only takes the "original configuration" on their RMA process, so I asked if I should keep the ram stick to myself or leave it with them. They insisted that I also keep it there, since it could be a stick problem, so they would try to test different sticks on it and also run tests on that one. The process took about 2 weeks and then I received an e-mail saying that everything was ready to be picked up at the store. Once I got there, I asked the guy (this time was actually a girl) if they could tell me the report feedback and she was like "Yeah sure, we haven't looked into it, but they usually leave a written report inside the package" I went to read it and it said something like: "Problem solved. The laptop presented some weird noise on the speakers, and they were replaced under warranty" I was speechless. Didn't they read the whole thing about the crashes and the ram? There was no double check on the report made by the store? I couldn't care less about the speakers, I never even used them and have no idea there was actually a problem or not. The "good news" is, they opened my "tampered device" and found nothing wrong with it. I then asked if they even tried to troubleshoot the second ram slot, and they were like "Oh, since it originally comes empty, Asus will not test that". So... I can now start selling laptops with faulty slots because "the empty ones will not be tested anyway", how does that work? I asked for my ram stick and the lady started looking for it (oh god) saying it had to be somewhere... it was sent without any packaging just stumbling around on an empty card box. Now I started getting really angry and trying to fight for my rights, it was no longer about "helping them troubleshoot the thing", I wanted to see something getting done. The ram stick has a life time warranty (whatever that means) so I asked if they at least concluded that there was a problem there, and the lady tells me "Well, if you want, you can leave it here and we will test it for you" Lady... You guys have been holding it for the past 2 weeks, wasn't that the whole point of leaving it here? She ended up apologizing for the whole thing, asked for 1 more week there and said they would RMA it again to Asus while trying to make sure the original report was accounted for. Any input you guys can give me on this? What are my options here? Any known policy on empty slots? How can I ask them to make sure they work since "they are unused on the original configuration"? I get the feeling I'm gonna end up with my money burned on this, they will take no accountability for the whole thing and just say "it is what it is".

Dear LTT community, I hope our collected knowledge can help me fix this problem that is driving me crazy currently. Hardware: I built an ITX setup in January this year and for some reason, my BIOS keeps resetting after every shutdown (not only on A/C loss!). You could think, that this is quite easy - the CMOS battery must be dead. But that does not seem to be the case as the time and date is always correct, even after unplugging the PC from power for several hours. The CMOS battery seems to be fine. Upon powering the PC up, it shows the message "Please enter setup to recover bios settings", indicating that some test failed. In the bios, all settings are back to default and I have to adjust the settings manually or load from a profile, which I created earlier (the profile also seems to survive shutdowns/power losses). This is quite annoying as I use the PC while travelling as a mobile gaming setup and it's impractical to reconfigure the BIOS on every boot. As long as the PC is running, I face no issues at all, it's perfect. But when shutting it down for a few minutes, the problems occur (reboots and shutdown and instant boot are no problem). Things I already tried: Resetting BIOS by flashing the latest BIOS Updating BIOS to latest version Reinstalling Windows with all drivers from ASUS website Running full memtestx86 (all four tests pass 100% with no errors) Running Heavyload 100% sustained CPU+GPU+RAM+SSD load for 60 minutes, temps never higher than 75 °C, no errors Checking CMOS battery status in HWINFO Turning XMP/DOCP on and off Using BIOS with default settings I had an Asrock x570 TB3/iTX before the Asus board, which faced similar issues (but that seemed to be intentional, as described in many Reddit and forum threads) so I switched to the Asus board. On the Asrock one, the BIOS also lost track of the time, indicating that it is a different issue. I am unsure how to fix this or proceed now. Has anyone else faced similar issues? I am thinking that the CPU might be broken, but currently I am not desperate enough to buy another CPU just for debugging reasons. Taking my ITX build apart is always a lot of work and I just want the system to work. Best regards and thanks to all of you for your efforts! Moritz

Hi, Recently, I purchased an Asus Prime Z-790P D4 Asus motherboard, along with new memory sticks (Corsair CMH32GX4M2D3600C18 Vengeance RGB Pro SL 2x16GB DDR4-3600MHz CL18 1.35V) and a CPU (Intel i5-12400F) but unfortunately, the motherboard does not boot. When attempting to power on the computer, the power LED initially blinks rapidly, then transitions to a slightly slower blinking pattern, and finally, it blinks very slowly. The LED continues to blink at this slow pace until I shut down the computer. I uploaded this video on youtube to show the issue: View: https://youtube.com/shorts/FMNFBpoGUdA?feature=share According to Asus support faq (https://www.asus.com/support/FAQ/1047023/) Fast Blinking (When the power LED flashes fast (a cycle of 0.25s) means that No DRAM was detected Slow blinking (The power LED flashes slowly (a cycle of 2s) means that no VGA was detected Very slow blinking (The power LED flashes very slowly (a cycle of 8s) means that no Boot Device was detected Here is the list of all the solutions I have tried: Removed the second DRAM stick and attempted to turn on the computer with only one DRAM stick (in the B2 slot). Attempted to power on the computer without the graphics card, connecting the HDMI cable directly to the motherboard port. Unfortunately, my recently purchased CPU (Intel i5-12400F) does not have an integrated graphics card, so this did not work. Tried to clear the CMOS by jumping the pins with a screwdriver first and after getting no results I also removed the motherboard battery (for approximately 10 minutes). As I upgraded from an old system with a 4th-gen CPU and an older motherboard (Asus 497M-E), I also attempted to install a fresh copy of Windows 10 using a USB drive. However, the computer failed to boot, exhibiting no response as if the Windows 10 installation USB drive was not inserted. Downloaded the latest BIOS from Asus (https://www.asus.com/motherboards-c...-d4/helpdesk_bios/?model2Name=PRIME-Z790-P-D4), copied it to a formatted FAT32 USB drive, and used the BIOS rename tool. Despite these efforts, the power button continued to exhibit the same blinking pattern. The motherboard is still under warranty; however, the store from which I purchased it is known to have a lengthy process for returning under-warranty items, taking approximately 2-3 months based on online feedback, so, I would prefer to explore the warranty option only as a last resort.

I have tried everything, but failed. In the bios of my asus laptop, it shows that there is an intel storage device with 512gb (my m.2) but doesn't show up in the boot section. I have tried everything I can, that is: Trying to format the drive with another external ssd with linux on it in every kind of setting, like ntfs and fat32 but none made the drive bootable. When I try to install windows it doesn't see any storage devices, even though linux did on the external ssd. It might be a bios error, but I also tried to reset the whole thing by updating it, it did not work. Please get back to me asap. Thanks.

Budget (including currency): $1,300 CAD ( USD) to $1,350 CAD ($ USD) Country: Canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: - A single thread maxed at 100% most of the time (while doing 3d animation in Blender with line-art animating, but really really simple shading) - while other cores/threads also working, though probably not 100%. Other details: These 3 above are part of a bundle deal: - CPU: 13600kf - MOBO: ASUS Prime Z690-P ATX PCIe 5.0, DDR5 Model: PRIME Z690-P WIFI - RAM: TeamGroup T-FORCE VULCAN 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 6000MHz CL38 FLBD532G6000HC38ADC01 I want to buy this bundle before it sells out, and I'll figure out the other parts this week. I should be left with ~$650 Cad for Psu, Air-cooler and case. But before buying the bundle, I'd like to know: - Are the Mobo and Ram good? - Can I buy a good, reliable psu, air-cooler and case for ~$650 cad? - A psu that won't blow up in 5-10 years (or ever), - and an air-cooler and case that won't let my pc throttle/get damaged from overheating. - how big would the case be? - note: I'd prefer an air-cooler. - note: I'll probably use my old old gpu for now. - current monitor: 1080p 60Hz 23 Inch Lcd (HP w2338h) - I may want an air-cooler that can cool a 14th gen cpu if possible. How much would that cost? An article said this air-cooler can cool a 14900kf iirc: - DeepCool ASSASSIN IV Premium CPU Air Cooler, Dual-Tower, 120/140mm FDB Fan Configuration

Hey guys, Recently, my family has gifted me a 4090 Strix as a graduation present considering I've just graduated from college with honors and an Advanced Diploma. That being said, although I am happy that I will now be joining the 40 series gang this unfortunately does mean I will be parting ways with my beloved 3080 ti from EVGA. It served it's purpose and I will miss the customer service EVGA brought me whenever I had issues with EVGA hardware. Whether it being GPUs or PSUs, I still firmly believe that EVGA's customer service was by far the best. Now with them leaving the GPU industry, that leaves ASUS, MSI, Gigabyte and Zotac as the main contenders for choosing a Graphics card. With that being said, I do have one question. How good is ASUS' customer service compared to all other brands? Although I am confident that my new GPU will last for several years I am wondering how their customer service fares when it comes to dealing with RMAs or replacement requests for GPUs. Despite the controversy between ASUS and J2C my family still went ahead with ASUS which I do not mind as it is the card that I originally wanted when the 4090s released. For anyone that has gone through the RMA experience, what was it like? How did ASUS treat you compared to EVGA? If anyone has any stories they would like to share please let me know! Thank you!

Edit: someone else already bought the GPU. But I still wouldn't mind a reply so I can learn for the future. No rush, tho. Budget (including currency): $75 CAD (Cuz I wanna save most of my money for if/when I need to build a brand new Pc). Country: Canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Play Path of Exile. Use Blender 4 and newer versions (mostly low-poly, no textures). Other details 1) See gpu pics, plz. It's an Asus Gtx 970 Blower Style Gpu. For $36 CAD + $28 shipping (so $64 CAD total, $47 USD). Lots of pics. Seller has all positive ratings. They responded to my questions quickly. They said: - it's cheap because they tend to flip products quickly due to limited storage space - it was used in an office pc before they upgraded it The back has dark spots, white specks, and what I'm guessing is dust (I have a blower). Is any of this a red flag? Also, when I looked up Asus Gtx 970 blower style, the pic is a sleek white gpu, and not the generic-looking gpu for sale. When i image-searched, lots of other gpu's had a similar generic look. Is this normal? 2) Is it as simple as needing a psu with high enough wattage? (Which I believe I do). Or do one of the +12v rails have to have high enough amps or something? The gpu for sale requires a single 8-pin connector. Existing Parts: - Stock Psu is 460W (Might not have an 8-pin connector. But let's assume it does). (see pic) - Other Psu: Thermaltake 500W Tr2-500NL2NH (see pic) - 23-inch 1080p lcd monitor - i7-3770 - 24GB Ram (2x8GB and 2x4GB iirc) - 1 Ssd sata - 1 Hdd sata. Edit: I can put this in an external enclosure if I have to. - Whatever mobo came with a Dell Xps 8500 Desktop Pc - This has been running with an Xfx Radeon Hd 5770 for a while, no major problems at all, other than outdated for newer versions of Blender. And sometimes I have to restart pc when starting up (not sure if this is gpu related. It's no big deal).

Hellow everyone As some may know, the Rog Phone came out since 2018 and hasn't received updates to the OS since 2019. Support ended at Android 9 (Pie), which I currently use. So, I don't dabble very often if ever in this space, any tips or pointers are much appreciated. After some googling and reading a couple forum posts, my phone doesn't have a custom rom, but according to a XDA (xdaforums.com) forum post, I could still use a GSI to upgrade to a newer Android version, but with some obvious drawbacks to the phone's usability. Please correct me if I'm wrong, I understand that GSI basically means that it isn't a custom rom, but a general or universal OS that can be used for any phone really. Would you recommend for me to follow said guide? Additionally, I wanted to know if I can treat this upgrade as an update, whereas all my data can potentially stay as is, since I have a lot of accounts on the net that have a 2FA I'd hate to deactivate them all beforehand, but can if necessary. Or if it's a install a complete new OS from scratch, deleting all data on prior version. To close out; I know I'll have to buy a new phone sooner than later, but since this phone has some sentimental value, I wanted to probe what opinions experts might have on this. Help is much appreciated. Regards -Sky

Hello everyone, I'm reaching out because I've run into a persistent issue with my PC that's been giving me quite a headache. I'm hoping that someone here might have encountered something similar or could provide some insight. I haven't been able to find any issues like mine, but maybe it's just a googling issue. Two months ago, my PC started having boot issues. The motherboard LEDs indicated a VGA error, and no amount of reseating components seemed to fix it. Occasionally, clearing the CMOS would allow me to boot into Windows, and once I was in, everything worked perfectly. However, if I turned off the PC, it was a toss-up whether it would boot up again. I found some threads suggesting that the PCI-E slot on my old motherboard might fail over time, so I upgraded to an Asus Prime B-550 plus. The first boot went smoothly, but the next day, the VGA error returned. This issue has persisted across both motherboards. Now, I'm stuck in a frustrating cycle: I have to repeatedly restart my PC, sometimes for up to 45 minutes, until it finally boots and displays. Once the PC is on, I can restart it, and it boots up without any issues. Here's a rundown of the troubleshooting steps I've taken: - Reflashed BIOS - Removed one stick of RAM and switched them around - Tried different RAM - Tried a different GPU - Tried a different CPU - Cleared CMOS - Enabled and disabled resizable bar - Turned off and on fast startup - Reseated every component My PC specs are as follows: - GPU: RTX 3070 - CPU: Ryzen 7 5700x - RAM: DDR4 3200 MHz - Motherboard: Asus Prime B-550 plus - OS: Windows 11 I'm really at a loss here, so any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I just recently bought a bunch of parts for a pc build and done extensive research online for building a pc and on the first boot up it displayed 60 error codes -18 cpu codes (00,31,13,17,27,03,52,7F,02,08,5C,40,80,63, 60,86,24,62) -29 memory codes (00,11,23,12,28,26,4C,0D,0E,2C,31,2E,48,34,57,39,3A,79,36,35,7A,3B,3C,38,3F,39,6E,5C,55) -10 VGA codes (90,94,96,91,92,99,98,9C,84,A0) -3 HDD codes (A2,A0,98) -Hardware I'm working with is all brand new top of the line and I made sure I was extremely careful when handling all pieces and was able to get into bios before the screen prompted that it had posted in safe mode (probably because of all the codes) All parts are labeled below I just don't even know where to start because I followed the instructions step by step when viewing Christopher Flannigan's video on YouTube where he did a similar build to mine with his TUF 502 build any suggestions moving forward since I'm relatively new to this -ASUS Z790 Maximus formula -14th gen intel i9 14900k -4090 TUF Nvidia OC -ASUS Thor Platinum ll 1200w -ASUS ROG Ryujin III 360 -CORSAIR Dominator Titanium DDR5 RAM 48GB x2 -SAMSUNG 990 pro 2TB x2 -ASUS TUF GT502 Tower

Hi, I am upgrading my system from a 12600KF to a 14600KF, basically for the fun of it and out of curiosity. And what do I get? Several bluescreens. My Mainboard is an ASUS Prime Z690-P D4 with 16GB of Corsair Vengance 3200 RAM. I updated the BIOS (and ME) to latest (2801) before switching the CPU. I reinstalled Windows 11 just to make sure to not have a driver issue. But the behavior did not change. Several applicatons (like firefox or outlook) close with errors. And sporadicly I get bluescreens, especially when installing driver updates for example for the Nvidia GPU or using Microsoft Teams with a webcam. I downgraded to a Core i3 13100 and all problems disapear instantly. I re-upgraded to a second 14600KF I bought from another store. Back to bluescreens. Did I miss any important setting in the BIOS? Everything is set to default except XMP for the RAM. Maybe 14th gen is not yet stable and / or compatible with Z690 yet? I guess it will be wise to just wait for the next bios to be released, right? I also contacted ASUS Support but no reply yet.

There is a Bios Flashback Button & Clear CMOS Button on the rear IO on this itx motherboard. My concern is the Flashback Button. If you're not trying to do a bios update & you accidently push the Bios Flashback button, which could easily be done if you see where it's located, will it affect the bios? Delete the bios? or have any negative affects at all? I would think not since it doesn't see a usb stick in the designated slot for a bios update, but need to ask beforehand so I know what to expect. Anyone have some answers or experiences. Thanks in advance...Jp

I am planning to use the Asus ROG STRIX Z790-E GAMING WIFI II for my new build with a i9-14900k. The plan is to use a Corsair Dominator Titanium 2 x 48GB 6600MT/s CL32 kit. (https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/memory/cmp96gx5m2b6600c32/dominator-titanium-rgb-2x48gb-ddr5-dram-6600mt-s-cl32-intel-xmp-memory-kit-cmp96gx5m2b6600c32) Now; this specific kit is not shown on the compatibility list (https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-z790-e-gaming-wifi-ii/helpdesk_qvl_memory/) (Make sure it's on 14th gen.) All though the RAM does in theory fit within the motherboard specs for speed and size. I have doubts on how up-to-date/complete the compatibility list is. Based on the list there is only one supported set that can fill the claimed 192GB capacity. On the other hand: The Intel website also only claims "Up to DDR5 5600 MT/s" for the CPU, whilst it obviously can handle much more. So; would it be a safe bet to get this set of RAM in this build?

Either I am not understanding the spec, or the manual is contradicting itself. The manual: https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1700/ROG_STRIX_Z790-E_GAMING_WIFI_II/E22402_ROG_STRIX_Z790-E_GAMING_WIFI_II_EM.pdf?model=ROG%20STRIX%20Z790-E%20GAMING%20WIFI%20II On page 8/9 (with the blue) the storage row says that the M.2_1 and M.2_2 slot go straight to the CPU. On page 26 under heading 6. M.2 slot, it says the M.2_2 slot goes through the chipset. I obviously want the M.2 to go straight to the CPU, whilst nog limiting the GPU by using the M.2_1 slot which would make the GPU go x8. So logically that would mean using the M.2_2 slot, but does or doesn't it go straight to the CPU...

Budget (including currency): 600Eur (850CAD) Country: Germany Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: COD Modern Warfare III, Cyberpunk 2077, etc... Other details I'd like to upgrade my pc and i'd like to ask about your opinions on what should i buy. I have now: Asus Maximus VIII Hero, 2x16GB Corsair 3600Mhz DDR4, Asus ROG Strix GTX 3060 12GB, Intel i7-6700K with CoolerMaster Seidon 120V v2 watercooler plus CM 850W PSU. I'd like to change just the Motheboard+CPU+cooler if possible. What should i buy for around ~850 CAD (~600eur). Just Intel and/or Asus if possible please. I thought about i5 12400F or i7 12700K, but i am not sure. M2SSD i already have. Thank you. I also have a Vive and i'm playing on an MSI 3440x1440 144Hz Display if Really needed i could buy new DDR5 RAMs too, but in the moment i would like to stay with these. now i can play MWII on 3440x1440, all on max with 55-65FPS DLSS off, With DLSS on Quality a stable 80FPS. Thanks for Everybody.

Hey guys, I just wanted to ask how to undervolt my R5 5600X to 1.050V on the B450M K-II as I couldn't find anything on the internet about my specific motherboard. Thanks for every help!

I had had graphical issues for a while on the computer I built a few months ago (Windows 10, i5-13600K), and I need help to decide whether I should turn in the card (RTX 3080 TUF). I frequently notice issues mainly when browsing chrome, the screen flashing black/white for a millisecond when switching tabs, random black lines or purple squares when watching videos or browsing social media, or completely broken graphics on some sites. I have not encountered any issues while playing games (however I only play a few titles) and I have not had these issues on the desktop or while using other applications. At first I thought I would just turn off hardware acceleration, which solved some issues (I think) but after having it off I am still having many issues. I have updated the gpu drivers, I have rolled back the drivers and reinstalled, I have done system restore. I have not done any overclocking to the card. I have checked that cables are not loose, and yes I have 2 separate power connectors rather than using the split one. There is one issue I have encountered, however I am not sure whether it's related or not since it's the only issue I encountered outside the browser. When I hover over the "show desktop" and the fade animation starts to hide the window and show the desktop, I get random white horizontal lines on my secondary 1080p 60hz monitor. The same does not happen on my 1440p 165hz monitor (or at least I have not been able to replicate it). What do you think? Is my gpu broken or is there something else I should test first? lines.mp4

So, it has been about a full week since I have been trying to setup hardware encryption on a Samsung 990 Pro 1To as well as a Samsung 980 Pro 2To, both slotted in an ASUS ProArt Studiobook (H7600ZX). Please bear with me as I am aware of my very limited knowledge in this specific field of computer science... I have tried so many things that I pretty much lost count at this point, even while taking notes on the side: Some notes to lay down some known facts: My BIOS/UEFI is up to date My SSDs firmware is up to date My Windows 11 iso is the latest available I do not seem to have any "BlockSID" related options in the bios Whenever I used the PowerShell commands to disable BlockSID and rebooted I was never greeted by a screen acknowledging the commands unlike I've seen in various forum posts I did a "secure erase" of my drives too many times for me to even count by now (on Samsung Magician my OS drive health stats show a 2To written on what was a brand new drive last week and only had Windows installed multiple times and to then be erased again and again...) Whenever I tried to force BitLocker to use Hardware encryption by disabling Software Encryption fallback through either registry edits or group policies, it always gave me an error as it wasn't able to encrypt the drives Samsung Magician's "Encrypted Drive" is and has been stuck at "Ready to enable" no matter what I tried/did I tried several things that may have no correlation and didn't seem to change anything: Resetting TPM keys, my reasoning being that maybe something saved in it that kept the drive in "Ready to encrypt" even after a "secure erase" (might have been useless so I restored them) Trying to use the PowerShell commands to act on the "BlockSID" was a nightmare since as it allegedly resets after each reboot, how am I supposed to install Windows with it still disabled...? Any and every idea/advice/knowledge on the matter is deeply appreciated! N.B.: It's past 5am here and my brain is fried so I will complete and update the post after some rest... In the meantime here's a few of the source material I've come across trying to troubleshoot the issue: EDIT: I also read the following, which made me think that this may be an issue related to my laptop's motherboard: Source: Enable bitlocker hardware encryption without reinstalling Windows 10 pro - Super User How do I check if my laptop's motherboard supports this feature? The official manual doesn't seem to talk about encryption at all: 0409_E19193_W7600Z_H7600Z_A.pdf (asus.com) On the manufacturer's website the specs listed regarding security lack any meaningful related information: