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Burusutazu

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Posts posted by Burusutazu

  1. The JBOD arrived. 

     

    I unboxed it and it's very well made and putting the drive in was a breeze... The 90mm fan is a bit loud so I'll need to tuck it out of sight but otherwise very happy so far. Will have to see how multiple drives works out since my other drive is still in RMA.

  2. 5 hours ago, LpoolTech said:

    Enjoy your purchase! A quick question any reason why you haven't considered a NAS? (I'm having similar issue to you and would like to hear your reasoning)

    A NAS was considered I just wanted something simpler to setup and maintain. I'm also not entirely sure what my internet situation will be like in the future as I have a cross country move on the horizon.

  3. 3 hours ago, Electronics Wizardy said:

    Id really just put drives in the case, just get a 16tb hdd and you should have plenty of storage. This would be more reliable and faster than usb storage too.

     

    Id probalby just get a 16tb or simmilar external hdd. Its normally cheaper than going diy, and should have plenty of storage. 

     

    But if you need a usb jbod, here is one https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-SATA-Hard-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B078YQHWYW

     

    3 hours ago, AbydosOne said:

    Get two 16TB drives. One to keep all your stuff on, and another to back up the first in the case the first dies.

     

    #DataHoarder

    I ended up buying this one.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y3WDHLD?psc=1&smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

     

    It was a little more than the others but It had the best overall reviews.

  4. 5 minutes ago, Electronics Wizardy said:

    How do you want to connect this to your PC? SAS? USB? There are a good amount of cheap usb models.

     

    But id really just put more hdds in your desktop. Cheaper, and simpler.

    Preferably USB C (3.2)? If necessary I would like other computers to be able to use this as well.

     

    My desktop will only hold two disks and the drive cage was ruined in shipping. I would have to take the entire computer apart to get the drives in since cyberpowerpc routed all the cables over the spot where the drive cage goes. (They also only included one drive cage?)

     

     

  5. I've been trying to find a list of good JBOD (just a box of disk) units that I can consolidate my storage collection into.

    I currently have a older 2TB WD Black and a new 6TB that will be arriving when the RMA on it completes.

     

    I don't feel like pulling my computer apart to put the rma drive back in so I began looking for a JBOD that would hold about 4 drives for future expansion.

    My searches come up pretty empty, most the search results are for server rack style units but I'm looking for the desktop kind.

     

    Is there any recommendations? I don't really want a full NAS as I want to store and play games off one of the drives and the second drive will be redundant storage.

     

  6. 6 hours ago, Lemtea said:

    That is a pretty fair overclock and I doubt you will be able to push much further as most 1050ti's will hit the power limit preventing them from going any further due to their lack of a pcie power connector. Have you checked the clocks of the gpu using msi afterburner as gpu boost is likely pushing the clocks higher than what is shown in gpu-z. My g1 gaming 1050ti boosted up to 1750mhz on stock clocks which is much higher than the advertised 1480mhz boost. 

     

    Edit:

    Also note that just because the card can runs at a higher clock doesn't mean it is faster. My 1050ti would score a better superposition score at +160 core and +270 mem than +200 core and +350mem. I suspect the main reason for this is that the card is hitting the power limit and internally throttling despite displaying higher clocks. So make sure you benchmark each overclock to see if the performance is scaling appropriately than once you find the sweet-spot stress test the overclock to make sure it is stable. 

    Thanks for the tip, I looked at my benchmark scores and noticed that having +225 on the memory had a better score than +250 so I ran both a few times and compared their numbers. The +225 was basically better overall, I even saw a higher max core boost with +225 memory.

     

    Your right about MSI reporting better boost numbers, with the overclock at +225 on both I occasionally saw it boost up to 1946MHz and had a steady 1844MHz on the core.

  7. I decided to see what I could squeeze out of my Pny 1050ti I bought at the beginning of the year. I read up on overclocking with MSI Afterburner and read a few posts here on the forums about results on 1050ti's. 

    http://a.co/1V3XGwE

     

    According to GPUZ the card clocks at...

    Base: 1291MHz

    Boost: 1392MHz

    Mem: 1752MHz

     

    Which is what is advertised.

     

    From what I saw getting 100MHz overclock was typical but my card reached a overclock of...

    Base: 1516MHz [+225]

    Boost: 1617MHz

    Mem: +250 (CPUZ does not show the overclock and the benchmark value is wrong on both base and oc'd)

     

    I bumped clocks by +25MHz each round and ran a 10 minute benchmark till I saw artifacting at +250 Base. I tried to get more than +225 but it would begin to stutter past it. Same for the memory clock.

     

    Is this a typical result? I feel like this is actually a pretty high overclock compared to what I read about the 1050ti. Most places I read reported +100MHz being the goal.

     

    Edit: Temps were steady maxed at 62c under load with the overclock.

  8. 37 minutes ago, Tosa said:

    The lid doesn't happen by chance to push down the power button when you close it? And for the BIOS settings, have you been flashing the BIOS and/or altering the settings a lot? Anyway, you could try removing the CMOS battery, the regular battery and unplug the charger, then hold the power button for about half a minute. Then put everything back.

    The power button is on the side of the laptop so it can't be that. And I haven't changed the BIOS settings since I first got it, and all I did was disable secure boot then. 

    One of the main reasons I wan't to install Windows is so I can use Dell's BIOS flash tool to update the BIOS. I can't seem to get my head around flashing it via usb.

    I'll try removing the two batteries and holding the power button. I'll report back in a bit.

  9. On 1/20/2018 at 11:52 PM, Canada EH said:

    change it anyways

     

    dont matter what the voltage is, could read solid 100% voltage but still crap out with no juice left.

    I changed it again after a second battery arrived and the issues still persist.

  10. My Dell Inspiron 13 7348 is a few years old now (3 and 1/2) and has had a rough life being carried around for all my classes. Lately there have been a few issues that I have tried to get help with elsewhere but have had no luck...

     

    Shutting the lid turns the laptop off.

    I have used Ubuntu and Windows on this laptop for pretty much it's entire life yet all of a sudden when I shut the lid the computer just shuts down. I have run through a number of different troubleshooting tips from editing config files and testing if the lid switch is even recognized (it is) and nothing has helped. This has happened on Ubuntu, Linux Mint, and Solus.

    • Uncommenting the lid switch actions and setting them to suspend in the file /etc/systemd/login.conf did not work.
    • Setting the setting in the settings did not work.
    • Testing systemctl suspend was a success.

    Thanks @Tosa

    I cannot boot from a Windows USB installer.

    I cannot boot from a Windows 10 USB installer on all three ports of the laptop. Selecting the USB drive(s) just continues on to booting Ubuntu.

    • I used various different USB creation tools including Rufus, Media Creation Tool, and Universal USB Installer.
    • I used both a 32GB PNY Flash drive and a Samsung 64GB drive and neither worked.
    • I tried NTFS, FAT32, and Extended FAT format choices on Rufus.
    • I tried both UEFI for GPT and MBR and non UEFI. (The system is UEFI GPT).
    • Booting from Ubuntu, Linux Mint, and Elementary OS work on both of the above flash drives.
    • Secure Boot is off.

     

    BIOS settings are not saving.

    When trying to change from UEFI boot to Legacy (or trying to enable legacy boot options with UEFI) the settings do not save after I save and exit the BIOS.

    • The CMOS battery is not dead.

     

    Any help on any of these issues would be greatly appreciated. The issues have gone on long enough now that I had to break down and buy a new laptop because these issues were getting in the way of work.

    The issues are listed in the order they appeared.

     

    I asked for help on Ask Ubuntu and got asked about if suspend worked. Never got a follow up.

    https://askubuntu.com/questions/994864/laptop-lid-close-not-suspending

     

     

  11. 1 hour ago, johndms said:

     

    The Prime b350m-a-csm is a bad choice. Even though you have no plans to overclock, it has no VRM heatsink. I'd worry putting a six or eight-core Ryzen on a board with no factory VRM cooling capability, just don't do it. If one plans to overclock, I'd expect the board to wear out much quicker than one with even a crappy heatsink.

    I bought the ASRock board last night after thinking about it awhile. Reviews on Newegg and Amazon were far more in favor of the ASRock board as well. My first build (- a new GPU, hello 750ti for now) should be completely finished next weekend. :)

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