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About KarsonC

  • Title
    Junior Member
  • Birthday July 2

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Occupation
    Engineering Student


  • CPU
    Intel Haswell i7 4771
  • Motherboard
    Intel DZ87KLT-75K
  • RAM
    2 x Team Group Xtreem Vulcan DDR3 1600MHz 16GB Memory Kit
  • GPU
    Asus OC GTX760
  • Case
    LianLi PC-7
  • Storage
    Plextor M5Pro 256GB + WD Cavier Black 1TB
  • PSU
    Antec High Current Gamer 520M
  • Display(s)
    Asus VX238H Black
  • Cooling
    CoolerMaster Hyper 212+
  • Keyboard
    Logitech k360
  • Mouse
    Buffalo BlueFocus SRMB01W
  • Sound
    Edifier R1200T + Philips SPA5300

Recent Profile Visitors

392 profile views
  • W-L

  1. KarsonC

    How to move OS to SSD

    It depends on your type of windows license, if it is an OEM version, you are likely have to buy a new one if you changed your motherboard (As reminded by Daniel). But if you are using a "box" version, I would just install normally on the new drive, but not to use the old HDD anymore to prevent the Microsoft server detect multiple activation of the windows you are using. If you are sure your license is using on the "same" computer, you are fine.
  2. KarsonC

    How to move OS to SSD

    Definitely do a clean install if you want to get the most performance out of the box. Cloning the HDD to the SSD is fine only "if you don't have the time to reinstall and transfer all the files onto the SSD." As others suggested, I would say the following steps are pretty much safe and sound to do before either a clean install or cloning. Backup, *copy* all the files you need to a separated healthy working drive (not "CUT" because if any error occurred, you still have the working file on the source drive.) Make sure your SSD is at least the same or higher storage capacity than the HDD partition(s) you are cloning from. Deactivate any software(s) that only allowed to be used on one activated machine. (If you have any) Shut down the computer, disconnect all internal and portable storage drives from the computer. Connect the new SSD to the computer. ( If you are doing a clone, leave the OS or source drive connected. ) Double check no other unnecessary storage drive(s) connected ( If you are really paranoid) Go to the Bios see is the SATA setting is on ACHI, change IDE to ACHI if it isnt'. Do a clean install or follow the instructions on the cloning software to continue. Note: If you are creating partitions for the SSD, I strongly suggest you at least give a minimum of 256GB for the OS partition because windows updates, all your utility software will be installed on C: (or the OS partition) as default and might not be able to change during or after installation. So leave a plenty of space for that, if your SSD is 256GB or less, don't bother to do a partition. It will kick your "ass" so hard when the files filled up by those updates and software that doesn't allow relocation.
  3. Are there any better options you guys would suggest?
  4. Oh, sorry for incomplete English, what I mean is for my local area, the Dell Online Store did't list out any refurbished product. I have to make an enquiry for stock left by email.
  5. Hmmm, while Premiere needs to pay subscriptions with it's latest CC like office 365, FCPX is one-off and free to upgrade forever.(As told by the internet). Continue to pay more money for CC is like too stupid to go with as I am not going to use the laptop as my main editing computer. In my area, the best deals I can get for brand new MBP is @ CAD 2660, XPS 15 @ CAD3110. Refurbished XPS need to email Dell to get the information from them. Sounds nice to have hackintosh running though.
  6. Oh I forgotten to update it, I swapped the GTS450 for GTX760 now. At the same time, I am looking forward to try Final Cut Pro, as they mentioned it's more efficient and faster in editing video. The down side is it only works with OSX. Can't possible get it running on XPS too?
  7. Hi guys, I am retiring my old HP 4310s for being my happy business laptop since 2009, handling word documents, autocads and minor video editing stuffs fine. But it's not holding up long enough for a daily use without plugging in, 2 hours of maximum battery life without internet, can't even get things done on long travel. Terrified Youtube experience that I can't even play back 720p without dropping a frame per second (Internet is quick enough). And now, I have a powerful enough desktop for heavy gaming, autocads and video editing works. I would like to get a decent laptop that comes with 4k 15inch monitor, for a document works, video editing and perhaps autocads. I wish it can last as long as my HP does. But I am not restricted to Windows. Seem a normal guy will see MacBook Pro (or Apple computers) as a money pit. Do you guys have any suggestion for me to look for? Last but not lease, the best of my budget is either the Dell XPS 15 4K or the Macbook Pro i7 2.5Ghz 512GB(SSD) w/ M370X. Cheers, Karson
  8. KarsonC

    I have an i7 4770k need a graphics card ???

    What are your needs for the computer? £350 can get something tasty
  9. I have read the one when I bought Battlefield 4, but it seems nothing important "to me" about the things they mentioned in those paragraphs, so I would like to know are there any people will insist to read though them whenever they buy or register anything. It seems they are making things unnecessarily complicated.
  10. Do you guys read those before you register your game account? Just curious http://strawpoll.me/7094100
  11. After reading more passages and advices from my friends, I have a conclusion on what should I go for(roughly). A basic AC router like C7 will mostly sufficient to what I ask for, as the signal won't be passing through walls even with high gain antennas, a power line network is a bonus.
  12. hmm, it seems I should move on with a new router, but should I know anything before buying one?
  13. I need it to draw CADs and some 3D rendering to have a quick peep of what I am going to have when I make it to batter resolution on desktop, 4k ready, would like to play low-mid setting in battlefield 4 or so if possible
  14. Possible below USD1000, but I am thinking is 920 much better since I know I can get the Lenovo U41 with similar spec, lower battery life, no backlid keyboard and shorter warranty
  15. I am going to replace an old router for my grandparents house, The one that now using is the D-link 655. I have no idea why it keeps disconnecting the wifi and network randomly, which can be resolved by rebooting the router. Also the signal strength is not that impressive. My home is using power line networks so I have no clue on a good wifi router, can you guys give me a hand on choosing one? I have found some models that may suitable,(suggested by salesman) TP-link Archer C7 or C8 Tenda AC15 The old router have problems in penetrating two concrete walls, also dual-band and support 5G is my first choice. Just dunno why I have to pay more for dual core and more rams. Just need the input from you guys :-) Cheers