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About 191x7

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Virovitica, Croatia
  • Interests
    Hardware, gaming, anime, tech, trek, modern physics, SF, eSports, ...
  • Biography
    Geek, gamer, hardware enthusiast, Trekkie, master of engineering in computer science, hardware reviewer, techie.
  • Occupation
    Senior IT consultant in a hospital


  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 5 1600X
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte Aorus X470 Ultra Gaming
  • RAM
    2x8GB Kingston HyperX Fury 3200 MHz DDR4
  • GPU
    Sapphire Pulse RX 5700 XT 8GB
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout
  • Storage
    ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 256GB NVME + ADATA SU800 512GB SATA + Samsung 1000 GB SpinPoint F3 + Toshiba 1000 GB DT01ACA100 + Toshiba 2000 GB DT02ACA100 + 2x WD Green 2TB
  • PSU
    SAMA Armor Gold 750W
  • Display(s)
    LG 32GK650F 1440p 144Hz + Philips 226VL 1080p 60 Hz
  • Cooling
    LC Power Cosmo Cool LC-CC-120 + 2 CM JetFlo 120mm
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G710+ + SpeedLink Satten wristrest
  • Mouse
    Roccat Kone Military Optical 5000dpi
  • Sound
    Realtek ALC1220, Asus Xonar U5; Kingston HyperX Cloud & Genius HF-1250B
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 pro x64
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. Could be all of it. Try rebooting your router, modern etc.
  2. You can, especially if the USB hub is a powered one (uses a power adapter).
  3. Bufferbloat is what's important, and you have a "-" there instead of a grade. No wonder you have issues.
  4. Even a $15-$20 cooler like the Snowman from AliExpress would do. Which case?
  5. He probably means the rest of the configuration. The motherboard, the case and cooling (fans) also affect cooling perfrmance, and the GPU too. 60°C on Idle is warm, but it might be a case of poor case airflow and the CPU sitting in High Performance (power profile in Windows) ... I would recommend handling the cooling solution.
  6. Both should work just fine. Can you try the old monitor on a different machine?
  7. Scythe Mugen 5 http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/cpu-cooler/mugen-5-revb.html
  8. I would like to ask you to try something. One card at a time. Take the second card out. Test the first one heavily. Take the first out, put the second in and test that one. If both cards work fine on their own, test a card in the second slot (but only a single card). Your issues might be caused by Crossfire, the motherboard slot, one of the cards being faulty or maybe, just maybe, the PSU.
  9. Other parts? Driver version? Windows version? Crystal ball?
  10. You might need to use AMD/ATI Pixel clock patcher https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher or Nvidia Pixel clock patcher https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher Why do I get the feeling you're running an VGA cable?
  11. https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU https://www.google.com/search?q=cru+monitor+overclock&sxsrf=ACYBGNS6iwiMj6mVvmkDDTDV5SUWoV9ABg:1579767382388&source=lnms&tbm=vid&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjRt56NpJnnAhUKMewKHde_BngQ_AUoAXoECAwQAw&biw=1920&bih=937
  12. Samsung SM 226BW came with three different panels depending on the market and date. Samsung panels had the best colors a TZN panel could have, the other two were CMO and AU Optronics - they weren't bad bud required calibration (at least manually) and some settings change. That monitor, and the variants (2253BW for example, same monitor different bazels), were the "best buy" options some 10-12 years ago. And they could be overclocked to 85 Hz quite easily. Compared to todays models, they are bad. But there are also worse monitors one could buy new. Bad viewing angles are a TN thng, that's the same even on newer TN monitors.
  13. Please take this test http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest and report on the BufferBloat results.
  14. Does the game show "nat type open"?