AdequateShrimp

I would say yes if you were to move your hdd. The pump/res on the h220x doesnt look like it adds much width to the radiator. The H220x radiator dimensions: 247mm x 126mm x 115mm, H100i dimensions 120mm x 275mm x 27mm .... so the 220x is 6 mm wider, 28 shorter and 88 thicker (because pump/res) than then the h100i. if all else fails get a ruler out and do a rough sketch up on paper. http://www.corsair.com/en/hydro-series-h100i-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler http://www.swiftech.com/H220-X.aspx#tab2 ...i used your case page on corsairs website that has a h100i in it for a baseline

i can actually get my 3570k beyond 5ghz and still have good temps, i just don't run it at that at 24/7 because my voltage hits around 1.39v to be stable anything after 4.7ghz needs a ridiculous amount of voltage put into it... 4.9ghz needs about 1.33v

Best method for deliding would be the vise method, you can pick up a cheap vise at places like home depot for $25 such as this http://www.homedepot.ca/product/irwin-quick-grip-clamp-on-vise-3-in/904198 watch youtube videos if you need help... its also good to put electrical or duct tape on the sides for better grip and so it doesnt dent or scratch the sides of the ihs and please be smart if you do it, put a towel or something behind it because i had my 3570k go flying, good thing i did have a towel set up ready to catch it. the 4770k however didnt the glue kept it on and i just pulled the rest of it off. I've delided 2 cpus, a 3570k and a 4770k, i currently run a 3570k direct die at 4.7ghz at a max of 60C at load on a day with an ambient of 23C, I didnt know if the EK naked die kit was compatible with the xspc raystorm cpu block so i put my computer on its side, removed the retention clamp and popped the cpu in, I applied a thin coat of mx-4 that covered the surface of the die with a cotton swab to ensure even coating in all areas, put the block on and tightened it with a moderate amount of pressure to be sure that it was seated but not to much to crack the die, Btw you need quite a bit of pressure to crack the die so don't be too worried. The computer didn't boot the first time so I tightened it with about 1 extra turn further and then the second time it booted up just fine, I also applied about another quarter turn later to ensure proper contact just for safety reasons.

My buddy that lives with me has this case so i have a general understanding of the case. I imagine it would work okay depending on which way you rotated the bay so that the pump was facing down or furthest towards the bottom of the case so that any air that might be in the res won't be interfering with the pump that would otherwise be sending air through your loop. Im looking at the linked pictures and it looks like the actual reservoir is on the right half of the bay and the pump + inlet and outlet is on the left half of the bay. So if you were to get it my best guess would to be mount it so the left half is facing towards the bottom of the case and the right side facing up. but i haven't had any experience with this res+pump combo, if all else fails get a bay reservoir and a seperate pump and hide it in the back of the case. TLDR: If i were you i would rotate it 90 degrees counter clockwise so that any air is at the top of the res and furthest away from the pump. -edit: and yes i know rotating it CC would mean any air that is still in the reservoir would be seen in the little window. but its better than degrading the pump or having air bubbles in the rad or blocks.

I might try liquid ultra later on down the road, since now it be such a hussle to remove the ihs from now on... i managed to clock up to 4.9ghz. but yeah, intel needs to stop cheaping out on the TIM, not like it will bankrupt them by doing so.

Here's some pics of the process for proof.... I would also like to thank all of you who spent your time trying to help me with my struggles. and sorry for the sideways pictures, kind of forgot to turn camera to the right angle (was in the heat of the moment), please dont snap your neck trying to look at them .... yes the real temp was only runnning for 38 seconds but prime itself had been running for about 15-20 minutes.

Success, I've delidded my cpu.. and now my temps are down to 63ish

Thanks, best of luck to you as well if you ever decide to.

To save you the reading of all the other posts, yes.

Yes your correct in every sense and i agree with you about the gpus,did i expect a huge temp difference of like 20C (hypothetically), no, but to have it actually slightly worse than the AIO h100i seems ridiculous at the least. But if just refuses to perform even marginally better, well then at least it still looks nice and is much quieter.

which is weird since some benchmarks show that it performs moderately well http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup

1) I ran the h100i with the stock sp 120-l models in pull 2) I tilted the case for about 6-7 mins, i had the help of my buddy who i gave my h100i to help me with, changing the the way we tilted it as well eg: forward, back, left, right and a little bit of shaking in all directions, aswell as almost putting it down on its side panel side also being sure to let bubble form in res. 3) the rad is throwing plenty of air out of the top of my case... I got 2x sp 120 and a sickle flow in push and 2x ap121 and 1 sickle in pull i went this rought for 3 reasons : to clock higher, reduce noice, and to add a gpu later when i get a higher tier card to liquid cool to boost oc potential.

It may just well be... kinda of weird, i would expect the stock stuff to be crap... but most benchmarks show the "higher-tier" tims are only between 1-5C between eachother... anyway thanks for the help though, will give it a try with mx-4 or arctic 5 and will post results either today or tomorrow or in a week if using arctic 5 and if they dont help well then it looks like im delidding the thing. ive already tried, temps were about 1-2C higher on the hottest core, so about 75ish on the hottest core

1) yes the radiator has been flushed with distilled (even though its pre factory flushed), I then also ran distilled water throught the loop before putting coolant in for about 16 hours to clean everything else. 2)100% sure ive removed the plastic covering... I've already removed the block a few times trying previous recommendations from others aswell which i know without a doubt from looking at it many times, has had the plastic static sealed cover removed 3) when i was filling the loop with both distilled and coolant the fluid was flowing quite fast through both the block and rad. i still remember since i put this loop together less than a week ago. (looked like it was pushing about 1/3 of a litre per second which is what its rated for on speed 5/5. when i was cleaning out the rad just by it self for the first time I shook it for about 2-3 mins quite vigorously (and no dust/solder flux came out) the sickle flows are decent pressure as well there maybe a 'fudge factior" but overall im pleased with there airflow and ability to push through a rad http://www.ncix.com/detail/cooler-master-r4-l2r-20ac-120mm-blue-2e-42176.htm for the stats

fans: 2x corsair sp120-l, 2 coolermaster sickle flow, 2x air penetrators 121 current Tim is just zalman stg-2 coolant : feser one blue, side note: how would switching the inlet on the raystorm help wouldn't that hinder its performance since thats where the stainless steel spreader is, making it harder for the water to flow out?