Rym

The big problem with this is that it's not crispy or sharp by any means. On desktop yeah 1440p looks crispy sharp, in games however, especially in the newest ones it gets destroyed by TAA and looks like you need literal glasses or something. I really wish it were the case that 1440p is sharp and crispy both in desktop and in games, in RDR2 for example the destruction to image quality is...extensive, to say the least. Only fix I found was pure bruteforce with 4K resolution.

In my opinion instead of wasting money on irrelevant features such as adblock detectors that will ironically get blocked they could invest in making youtube premium worth it.

I'm very curious and would like to understand why OLED still experiences burn in quickly (1000-5000 hr) on static elements such as game HUDs when it's running at around 50-100-150-200 nits. Is the brightness really so great that the pixels still wear out this fast?

For 30-32 inches 1440 is the bare minimum, at 24 inches 1080p looks blurry and pixelated, at 27 inches there is obvious pixelation on the screen and text appears warped and strange. At 30-32 inches...

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I have never seen a monitor / TV retain color accuracy, especially for whites and bright colors when it's brightness is too low. The image dims out too much and the colors simply look too dim and lose their vibrance, causing them to look weird.

Thanks for the info! Monitor is still in the return window, I ordered a different monitor which looking at google should have no BLB or at worst nowhere near the BLB of the LG and very good IPS glow generally, I'll wait for that one to arrive and if I like it I will return the LG one.

Unit: LG 27GP95R Issue: The unit is presenting backlight bleed on the lower left side, which is slightly tinted green and is visible in dark scenes and dark movies. Behavior: The backlight bleed changes intensity and location depending on whether I put pressure on the panel or the back of the panel. Placing pressure on the back of the panel removes the backlight bleed nearly entirely. Propossed solution: I hypothesize that this backlight bleeding is caused by improperly fit screws on the back of the panel, the screws are however hidden behind the panel rear, by tightening said screws in the location of the backlight bleed the issue would be solved in a satisfactory manner. The problem: Removing the back rear of the panel is not exactly easy, and I do not want to damage the panel itself in the process. There is no visible direct way to either remove or afterwards reinstall the back panel seamlessly. What I need help with: A video guide detailing how the back rear is removed properly, revealing the metal frame with the screws inside it that need to be tightened, and afterwards reinstalling the rear and the monitor on it's stand. Anyone ever tried this with their LG Ultragear monitor? Was it easy to remove / reinstall the back of the monitor? Placing something between the space of the panel and the bezel (very thin space) also affects the backlight bleed positively or negatively depending on location and type of pressure, but I don't have anything that small that would fit there and not be noticeable to further test how much that helps.

Topic no longer needed, please delete.

Thanks for the replies! Then I should remain with the M28U in mind, the LG is a bit much coming at 360~ euro more expensive. Am I right to understand that if I don't like DSC, I can run at 4K 120Hz without DSC?

I've been looking for a monitor upgrade to 4K, while the gigabyte m28u comes in highly recommended, it needs display stream compression to actually reach 144Hz. Is this a limitation of the monitor itself, and I'd be better off buying the samsung G7A LS28 or do all 4K monitors require DSC to go above 120Hz?

The more I look into it the more I think about it, like there is no good choice of a 1440p monitor. People say that it's the sweet spot but every 1440p monitor has a large flaw to it, and I've been thinking if the resolution is even worth the price or if I should just wait, add 200€ later and get a gigabyte M28U 4K monitor or something.

I've been looking a lot at my options within a budget of up to max 400€. I'm mainly gonna use it for gaming and watching movies / youtube, and will be switching from an aw2521h monitor. I'm looking for rich, immersive colors and a crisp, clear image. I can choose between this LG 27GP850-B monitor at 400€ or a few other choices which are the DELL S2721DGFA at 330€, Gigabyte M27Q (Q X and Q P are either out of stock or above 400€) and Asus TUF VG27AQ1A at about 330€. The MSI QD variant is selling for 660€ or so so I'm not considering it. Is the LG the best 1440p monitor in my budget? Lots of reviews seem to recommend it, it's cons seem to be a bad overdrive setting and low contrast ratio?

Hey! I've been thinking about the zero RPM feature on GPUs, for my model the temps go like so in desktop use: Zero RPM default: GPU slowly goes up to 55-60C over time until the fans turn on. Always on 30% custom fan curve: GPU stays between 25-28C Of course, the custom fan curve provides better gaming temps as well (zero RPM goes up to 60C before fans turn on again, while always on fans keep the GPU running at 40-45C in normal games, 53-56C in intense heavy workload games). But my issue is with the card VRMs, you can't tell what their temp is with zero RPM, and the GPU ignores their temp. In terms of VRMs I have a low end model (Gainward Phantom 4090) and I'm not sure if zero RPM would cause the VRMs to wear out faster or not. Any thoughts?

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4090 production is being throttled until the rtx 30 series overstock sells out.