Asthereal

Hey guys, We're looking for a way to use a monitor in the front of the shop, but the PC is quite far away and we don't want to use a 30ft HDMI cable. I saw there might be options for a wireless display adapter, but I have no idea whether those things are any good. Does anyone have experience with those things? Do they have proper reach? Are there good and bad brands? Anybody here have advice on how to approach this?

This. Also, try clearing CMOS before booting. That also helps sometimes.

I found ACM, but that's turned off already. It's still doing it though...

Yeah, I'm not in ECO mode though. Using "User" mode. I did find "black boost", which I turned to zero, but nothing. In Windows I found an adaptive brightness setting meant for laptops, but that's turned off as well. What else can I try, except for actually ask Acer?

Any idea where I find this setting? I don't see it anywhere in the menu of the monitor itself.

Hey guys, As someone who has been using old and crappy monitors for way too long, my new monitors confuse me big time. I just got two Acer V7 V277U monitors, and when something light enters the screen they get brighter. Who can tell me why this happens, whether it's a feature and what it's called so I can turn it off? (It's really distracting.)

Just came in the mail: Corsair iCue 465X Black. I'll be putting a 3700X in there (deal) in an MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon Max WiFi with 32GB (2x16GB) G-Skill Trident-Z 3600CL17. Storage will be 1TB Samsung 970 EVO (deal!) and 4TB WD Blue HDD, and it'll be powered by a Cooler Master MWE Gold 650W full modular. Graphics cards aren't available, so I'll stick to my GTX 980 for now, and hopefully upgrade in the spring. Looking forward to building this. EDIT: Just opened up the back panel, and they gave me a Commander Pro unit with it! What the heck? That thing costs like 60 bucks! I'm only supposed to get the top one, the lighting node, and not even with a cover on it. It's supposed to be a bare part. But instead they gave me a proper one, and strapped a massive control unit below it. That is a Commander Pro, right?

Budget is mentioned in the third post: 100-200$ Canadian. It's an A8 system, so no matter what you upgrade to, there's no room to grow anymore. But we might find a way to use a normal PSU, which could in time move to the new system, along with the graphics card. So it'll either be that, or something like a low end 750 Ti that only uses 60W. But those tend to be expensive second hand, because other people also want to make this particular upgrade. EDIT: A12, but same problem. EDIT2: Wait, that's an AM4 CPU. Probably no BIOS updates though... Ugh, still no real upgrade path. EDIT3: I think I found it: So yeah, 4-pin main power and 8-pin SATA power. That seems to be it for power to the board. In theory you might be able to get this to work with a normal power supply, but I have no idea what the dangers might be. SATA should be normal SATA, and the second 4-pin should be normal 12 volt. In theory an extension for the second half of your 4+4 pin CPU power plus a SATA power cable should do it. But that's two "shoulds" and that's two more than I like. What a mess. Probably best to get a cheap second hand 750 Ti or so that doesn't need 6-pin PCIe power, and save up for a whole new system. EDIT4: The longer I stare at this board, the less sense it makes. It's fun though. Glad I joined this topic.

This is true. However I think a second hand 1050 Ti will probably provide more bang for buck than a new 1650. The rest of the system is quite old (and weird), so you might not want to invest too much in an upgrade. Seems more sensible to get something usable now, and save up for an entirely new system in the future.

Cool, let us know. I'll investigate a bit more as well when my game of chess is finished.

What the heck? I don't see a 24 pin, but I also don't see any other way the motherboard gets its power. Where does this board get power from? The side somewhere? Do you have a pic? The four-pin for the CPU is standard though. That part still makes sense.

Isn't it? The 1050 Ti should use 75W, so you'll have 100 left for the rest of the system. Might be tight, but it should work. Alternatively you can try to find a lower end 750 Ti, which uses 60W. But the rest is just too little performance for too much money. Might be more efficient to buy a better PSU plus a second hand 970, but I'm guessing the system has a weird motherboard... I disagree however with what Mark said. A 500W PSU should never fry your motherboard if you have the correct wiring.

Second hand GTX 1050 Ti? Many of those need no extra PCIe power and should serve you well. There are also tons of options for low profile, should your case be one of those silly narrow ones.

Yeah I don't think it's the PSU anyway. The 290 draws 300W max at stock, if I recall correctly, and you have 750W to play with. That CM unit isn't bad either. It's just not the most efficient. Have you tried to clear CMOS and reseat the card? I literally just installed a different GPU in my backup system (R7 360, should fit okay with the Phenom II X4 955 on DDR2 ), and it wouldn't post at first either. I cleared CMOS and reseated the GPU, and then it posted after a few cycles.

Do you mean 2060 Super? Of a normal one? Because there never wat a 2060Ti. There was a 1660Ti though.