TigerBoy

Hi everyone. Thanks for all your feedback. Some of the items I saw from the comments are converters from PCIe to PCI (x16 to x1) and spliiters which I believe are usually used for mining. This unfortunately ain't my goal Thanks for giving me the ideas. Yeah I can't seem to find a product for it without hot wiring stuff and finding or coding custom drivers which I do not feell like I am capable of doing without it being a PITA. Unfortunately this is legacy gear so we can't generate a replacement/workaround until the next few years. I forgot that Thunderbolt PCI enclosures exists and this would work (despite it being bulkier than what I intended). Will revolve my solution around this instead. Thanks AbydosOne!

I am looking for a board that can connect a PCI card and can interface with my machine via USB. I am not sure if there is such a thing. Whenever I attempt to search for one I only see USB PCI cards (my search keywords are messed up for sure). It will only power an old x16 low powered custom serial interface card. We are transitioning to kill all desktops so we have to find a way to transition our communication to a particular machine via serial. Edit: I am not looking for a USB PCI Card. This is what I am looking for: Specialized Serial PCI Card <--(PCI Slot to USB Adapter)--> Laptop Thanks!

Awesome feedback! I think I will go back to the drawing board on this as all plans plans are somewhat not ideal (within the realm of keeping the warranty). I doubt there will be any issues as it came out the factory like this and all users experience this. It just really feels off having switches reach these temps. I may circle back to this after the warranty is gone. Thanks Jenko and stay safe!

It is the heatsink mainly. It would definitely benefit to put two smaller fans inside to push the hot air out instead. I know for gear like these it is mainly intakes due to the even dimensions of the chassis. Is there any benefit doing a push pull with 40mms or is it better to go push push for the two 40 mms to also cool the power components? (or maybe experiment and go from there) May just hold off on switch B for now as the border is not allowing imports. My problem now is switch A... Found a picture of it open. It is quite small which makes fan cooling impractical. This one goes around the 60 degree range without load which is too hot. Do you think it would benefit from sticking a heatsink on the chassis? I am not too sure how thick of pads I need for this... thinking 1mm or .5mm is ideal as the heat is not too intense. What do you think?

Hi Jenko, Thanks for the update! I plan on replacing the Switch B Setup with two 40mm noctua fans once the import borders open up again from where I am. Trying to think if it is worth using thermal pads for now or just a complete waste. I have two large sheets of 2mm thick pads and wanted to see if that would help.

I have a router and some switches that go from 60-71 Celsius (140-160 Fahrenheit). Switch A) It is not ideal putting a fan in the location due to limitations for one of them. I noticed the metal case (material not specified) is really sucking up a lot of heat to the point you can't put your hand on it for more than 5 seconds. This is a small switch so it is hard to cool with a fan. Switch B) (See picture A) I placed a fan on the bottom that will cool down 50% inside the chassis (via the side vents) and 50% the metal case. Heat currently goes out the side vents (top) and some heat stays at the upper portion of the metal chassis. This has dropped the temps to 47 Celsius from 71 Celsius. Also added an image of the internal layout and side vents. Questions: 1) Switch A) I would like to ask if slapping on a thermal pad would help dissipate heat at all even by a few degrees or does it not work without a heat sink or an active cooling source? 2) Switch B) Does it still help cool it down further if I slap a thermal pad on? Do I need to add in a heatsink for it to generate any additional benefits? Or is everything futile with this?

Just Posting this for everyone's reference: - Will still use my ISP's wireless router/modem combo (instead of getting a new one) - Decided on getting an Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X --> Will configure rules as detailed in my first post --> I will configure DHCP static MAPs for my trusted network devices (instead of static IP-ing them to easier manage them) which also includes the smartphone --> Will create NATs/port forwards for specific items in my trusted network that requires access from the wireless network (behind the ISP) --> Will create a rule that will lock down access for my phone to the trusted network port forwards Costs (less than 100$): Edge Router X - 85$ (more expensive here) Cabling - 14$ Again thanks to Electronics Wizardry for all the help!

Will look around Mikrotik's catalog to see what can do the job For the VLANning.... Will definitely do that in the new house where the cables are laid out strategically. In the place where I am going to install this, the room layouts would better benefit having a switch than multiple longer cable runs. Thanks for all your help Electric Wizard Rabbit that shoots lasers. Stay safe.

how careless of me to not include the usage... I would never Imagine a load on the device to hit 100Mbps concurrently since majority of the heavy traffic is in between that trust switch. No VPNs, No IPS just regular traffic passing through. Just need those inter-port ACLs to lock access down. Trying to look through my options both on the Mikrotik and EdgeRouter side. Would you have any recommendations?

Thanks for the reply. I am just really going cheap on this particular network. I can deal with the wireless thing later. Is there a specific device that you can start me out in the Mikrotik realm? Never worked with this brand before.

I usually deal with SMB to Enterprise grade routers/switches/firewalls and wanted something for my home that is consumer price friendly. I am looking for a wireless router that can do the following - Access control (either these two ways): --> Inter-Port level communication blocking --> Port subnetting (then firewall-ing) - All wireless clients will be guest except one which can communicate to a trust network - Something that is new and consumer grade (hopefully not more than 250$) Here is my intended communication paths: ISP Modem (Internet) <- Wireless Router LAN1 <- Trust Switch (Laptops, Desktop, NAS, etc.) ISP Modem (Internet) <- Wireless Router LAN2 <- Untrust Switch (Console, Off-Brand Smart TV) ISP Modem (Internet) <- Wireless Router LAN3 <- Untrust Device (1) ISP Modem (Internet) <- Wireless Router LAN4 <- Untrust Device (2) ISP Modem (Internet) <- Wireless Router Wireless1 <- Trusted Smartphone ISP Modem (Internet) <- Wireless Router WirelessGuest <- All other Smartphones Trusted Switch <-> Wireless Router <-> Trusted Smartphone Is there such a product in the "affordable" space? Expected concurrent throughput is 100Mbps max. Worst case scenario my priority is mainly securing the Wired connections and the wireless thing can be an after thought. Thanks!

Think of packet loss as when an extremely brief power surge/outage happens. Suddenly everything is alright then you notice your lights flicker and your speakers turn off. If it lasts for around a second it can even turn off devices and generally is not a good experience. If you are simply uploading files to the cloud (service like Google Drive, Photobucket, or Dropbox), most of them are smart enough and have mechanisms that would re-transmit the "packet that was lost" though you would notice it may take longer to send the file by a bit (depending on how much packet loss there is). If we are dealing with calls/ video calls, you would notice some choppiness, pixelated videos, loss of audio, loss of video, or similar issues. It all depends on the application you are using. Packet loss can be caused by a bad network card, a poor wireless connection (far distance or interference like microwaves or elevators), modem issues, or even ISP (Internet service provider) issues. Hope this helps!

Loss of performance is cool with me. Mainly concerned with stability, longevity, and the drive causing additional heat for other parts due to the lack of intakes on the chassis. 95% of the time it will be on a laptop cool pad so I feel I am on the safer side but just wanted to make sure I am not causing too much problems for those 3 criteria mentioned. Stay safe man!

Thanks for the response! I typically don't have any issues with normal M.2s. What about M.2 NVMes? don't they run quite toasty-er?

I know NVMe SSDs (in my case the Samsung Evo 970) have a thermal sticker that helps with heat dissipation. In a normal case, temps should not be a problem. It would be my first time putting this in a laptop that supports NVMes. My question is if would it be safe to put an NVMe SSD in a laptop as a secondary drive where it will only do a continuous 5-10% load with extremely rare 100% loads on it? I wanted to put some thermal pads but I read I have to peel off the sticker which will void my warranty so I don't think that may be an option. Any other recommendations would be great though! For reference I have included images of an ASUS TUF A15 below where I plan to connect it to on the second slot on the mid-right section. Thanks!

I want the blade stealth. I will water cool it and use it for extreme photo editing like paint. On my free time I will also play games like solitaire and minesweeper. Since this is a great product.... it may even handle spider solitaire @ 30FPS

Thanks for all the responses guys! I tried the following: 1) Distance analogy via Cars 2) Speed of sound analogy using thunder 3) Ask them to ask me what latency is 4) PING explanation (somewhat technical) Surprisingly the 3rd one worked best. When they answer back I gave them another delayed answer for a few times as well to show them how much an issue it is. For the somewhat tech savvy ones I explained using PING to <google.com>: PC: Hey Google (waits 3/4 a second) Google: Wut? Again thank you for all the answers. This is greatly appreciated.

Hi Guys, Good day! I am looking for a great network latency analogy for non-technical users. Users get why bandwidth is important when I explain using the train, printer, and especially the water pipe analogy. Though I am having a hard time explaining latency without using any or much technical terms. Hope you guys have any insight to this! Thanks!

Thanks again . For the NZXT H440 I agree, I really don't like it being restrictive on airflow (especially with my room temp). For the Razer ed one... I would like to avoid that but the only one available in black in my area is that version. For the Phanteks Enthoo Pro, I reached out to a community last night and saw it was not filtered but what people did is they just bought a 5$ filter and just modified it which I can do (see image taken from Linus' video). This is an amazing case for a D.I.Y person and I don't want a little thing to be such a deciding factor for me. Finally for the Thermal Paste, I am still looking what's available in my area, the shop I am reaching out to only sells Arctic Silver 5. I will be checking other shops next month (when 1080s become available) to see what they have. Here are the changes: Case: (CHANGED) To the awesome Phanteks Enthoo Pro PSU: (CHANGED) To a Corsair AX 760W 80+ Platinum based from the recommended PSU list Thermal Paste: (ADDED) Arctic Silver 5 (for now) Fans: (ADDED) +1 120mm for the drive cages I am still pending the following: Monitor: I am mostly decided on the Asus PG279Q though due to the additional 350$ mark up here, I am still have some reservations. (But I am still most likely to get it) GPU: Waiting to see which aftermarket 1080 versions will be available locally Thermal Paste: Will see if I can grab some Thermal Grizzly if there is one available locally Here is the now updated Build:

Thanks for the recommendation, I am going with the NZXT H440 (Razer ed, as there is no black for H440 available in my area) Wow, Thanks for taking your time in constructing such a post. Here is my now Updated Build: Reason for changes/not changing: CPU: (SAME) During my VM scenarios, I usually max out the cores that I use and it takes longer to process my build (Something relating to work). I think I can benefit from the .5ghz boost for an additional 60$. It is not really optimized for more than 3 cores so I think I this could remain the same (and not go to the expensive new releases). Sorry for not mentioning this earlier CPU Cooler: (CHANGED) Nice Catch! Storage Solution: (SAME) Sadly WD Blue(s) here only have 1 year warranty/replacement as per our local distributor, so I am adding a bit for the WD Blacks/Greens for the additional 2 years warranty/replacement. GPU: (N/A) I am unable to mention one yet since I am looking into what will be available by our local distributors. I am very excited for the 1080 FTW though PSU: (SAME) Good EVGA PSUs are not available in my country. Saw a re-seller though he said there is no warranty. So I stick with what I have on the RM750W. Fans: (ADDED) Just wanted some good fans for "outtake." Defaults will work for intake Case: (ADDED) I am almost sold on the Phanteks Evo except I have a question on one thing. On the front panel intake, are the edges filtered? Linus' video shows it ain't but the second video looks like it is. I think most of the dust will come in here if ever. KB/Mouse: (ADDED) I was planning on a K70Brown and a Razer Deathadder but man, you got me way sold on this Monitor: (UNDECIDED) This monitor is the dream... but for $1,100 USD locally I am unsure on this. As of the moment, this is the only one that fits my requests. I will be thinking about it since the monitor is like 1/4 of my whole build in terms of cost. Again, I greatly Appreciate the recommendation, Phanteks Evo was my first choice but I was bothered by the front intakes. Awesome catch also on the CPU cooler and peripherals.

Sorry about that. I corrected it now. I thought it would show as the actual HTML page. I modified this to text instead

Hi Guys, Good day! I am planning on building my first high-end system for the following Goals: Gaming - 1440p Single monitor (90% of the time) VM Scenarios 24gb memory peak (5% of the time) Look at cat videos and other stuff (5% of the time) For reference I have been juggling with an average laptop with a i52670QM-540m and i72600-32gbRam machines. I am upgrading since both systems are dying soon and I wanted to integrate everything in one system. I saved a lot for this setup so I currently have a wide budget. My problem is I am limited to the following page to acquire my parts as I live in South East Asia: https://tipidpc.com/useritems.php?username=pchub Currently I am set on most of my parts selection though I am missing out on the following due to reasons: Case Looking through PC Parts Picker and Linus' videos though I am still undecided My environment really brings in a lot of dust I live in a room that ranges temperatures from 28-35degC on a regular day and 18degC with AC I would prefer the following: No Extra Holes that cannot be covered by aftermarket Dust Filters (DemciFlex) Dust Filters in major parts if possible Can fit a top radiator Can hide cables well Dark Colored Case A side window to bask in its glory Video Card I am currently looking into the 1080 aftermarket releases so I am pending this for now Monitor I am currently looking for the following in my monitor: Resolution: 1440p Vesa Mounts Type: IPS (I don't need the best IPS) Refresh Rate: 120hz or above Size: 27" My current selection: Parts justification: Processor: Quad Core with good speed - Most Recommended in PCPartsPIcker Cooler: Just Chose the top liquid cooled one available in my country Motherboard: Because of the longevity rating on the board Memory: I need <24gb, chose a good brand for the price Storage: 1) 850 Evo - Majority of system files and primary VMs (350gb worth) - Most recommended SSD in PCPartsPicker 2) WD Green - Majority of my secondary and mirrored VMs (<1TB) - Good warranty and replacement in my country 3) WD Black - All my Games (<700GB) - Good warranty and replacement in my country PSU: Most recommended PSU in PCPartsPicker Any feedback with my current parts is very much appreciated. Thank you for the further help on this! Regards, Tiger

I guess I'll go with the 64gb and smack a 16gb SD card in there for my media stuff Thank you for your help with regards to this =)

Hi Guys, Good day! I would like to ask if the phone storage size matters in terms of the read and write speed? I am worried since in the old phones really lag dearly when reading some information if the storage size is larger I am buying a new phone and considering either the following: 1) Get a 64GB phone 2) Get a 32GB phone with a 32GB SD card I know it generally depends on the manufacturer's implementation, but I just want your guy's opinion on this The phone I will get is an Asus zenfone 2. Regards,