Yoshimitsu

Doesn't feel like you've read much of what I wrote regarding the reasons why I got into water-cooling. I got it to work now. I run 1 hour of Furmark no crashes temps not over 40 degrees. 3 things that I did: 1. Removed the sleeved GPU power extension cable. So, only one cable from PSU to GPU. 2. Even tho I thiurougly bled the loop when filling, I wanted to once more make sure there weren't any air bubbles trapped in the loop. And indeed there were, when I got them out the flow accelerated and even more bubbles came out. 3. Tried different PC power cord (hardly the issue tho) I hope it work fine, after 1h of Furmark I am quite optimistic. Thanks a lot for the suggestions.

Thank you I checked the prices in my country and the monitor you suggested would be $290. I found the AW2523HF and the ViewSonic Omni XG2431 both at a discounted price for $50 and $40 more respectively than the Asus suggested by you. Do you know by any chance if all 3 use the same panel? Or if any of them is superior in terms of image quality?

Hi Unfortunately, today I broke my Alienware AW2518H (freesync) which I bought in 2019. I was happy and fond of the monitor. I am completely out of the loop regarding monitors, what would be a good successor? It should be 24.5" in size and 240hz or higher in refreshrate. I would prioritize image quality above 240HZ rather than higher refreshrate. I have an Nvidia GPU I did some research on my own but people don't seem to talk much about 1080p anymore.

Hmm you might be right, but honestly. I put so much effort and encountered so many stumbling blocks creating all this that I honestly don't want to go back to air cooling because then all my efforts would be pretty much in vain. Getting it to work has gotten almost personal at this point Yes, I can mount the stock air cooler again see if it works. I guess that's the only variable left. I will report back tomorrow. With Thermal Putty should be fine, no? My application looked reasonable.

Unfortunately, I can't provide you that info because the screen just stays black - I can't power on my PC. I still had all the components for a hardline loop from a previous build and 3060ti was all I could afford because of the Covid Crisis. I have no air conditioning in my room so keeping PC temps as low as possible is nice. Regarding the PSU wattage, I suppose I could try to use my very old 750W SuperFlower PSU. But, if it really was just a PSU issue I would still be able to at least enter Windows. As I mentioned, the screen just stays black when powering on my PC. Or is my assumption incorrect? (sorry for the empty quote window, not sure how to remove it).

I built a custom water-cooling loop with hard tubes. When I finished everything, the GPU would just crash during games; the screen got black (no signal - entering power saving mode), and the only way to fix it was to reboot. This issue got only worse over time; the screen would just go black after the Windows boot screen. It was clearly a GPU issue because if I connected my monitor to the motherboard via displayport, everything was working fine. So I sent the GPU in for repair. I obviously cleaned the GPU and put on the original cooling block beforehand. The repair technician disassembled the GPU, cleaned everything, and the GPU works fine. I don't know for how long he tested the GPU, but he sent me a video of him playing a game with my GPU installed. He sends me the GPU back. I put on the waterblock again, filled and bled the loop, and so on. I get into Windows, I test with Furmark, and after 5 minutes, the screen goes black. I reboot my PC and I get no signal on my monitor, and like before, if I connect the monitor to my motherboard with the same cable, it works just fine. The temperature never exceeded 40 degrees C. Even before I sent it in for repair. Any suggestions? System: 3060ti founders edition with Bykski waterblock and Upsiren thermal putty. Seasonic 550W psu platinum rated. 32GB ddr5 by Gskill Trident Z Mobo: Asus B650E Strix Ryzen 7800x3D

No, the thermal pads designated with "2" go to the area i marked with green. On the grey thingies that I marked with red (I think they are chokes right?) the original heatsink has pads on them but Bykski didn't mark any.

Thanks for the answer. Yeah, I figured the mosfets under the plate need thermal padding as well and then on top of the plate so it makes contact with the cooling block. The Bykski waterblock doesn't use the black plate tho and on the image from the Bykski website the mosfets on both sides don't need padding for the waterblock. Do you have any idea why that is?

Hi I was watercooling my card for a while and have to send it for repair and don't quite remember all the places thermal pads are required. Does anybody know if I have to put thermal pads below or above this small black plate? I did put some thermal putty there when assembling my waterblock but don't even remember if it was actually needed or not. Thanks a lot!

no it's 5-12V

Hey My motherboard has one Aura RGB header and 3 Gen 2 ARGB headers. The pinouts are different as well. I will most likely use a hub for all my rgbs and fans. http://www.barrowint.com/product/dgzjjkzq/1173.html Does it matter which header i connect it to? The header supports both 12V and 5V and is externally powered by a sata cable. Out of curiosity, is it possible to adjust the brightness of external leds via software? Cheers and thanks in advance for the help!

what do you need to know? I don't know much else to say, tell me where to look.

It's a Windows 11 laptopt, and I checked WiFi was enabled in the Network settings, even reset the adapter.

Well, now it works again, I didn't do anything. But it's not the first time this has happened, I wonder what the issue is.

Hi WiFi just stopped working from one moment to the other, I've resetted my router twice already and no luck. It's a fairly new laptop, purchased 2 weeks ago. It doesn't show any available networks, on my other notebook it shows 2 networks and on my phone 3. Any suggestions what to do? I am about to reinstall Windows if that doesn't work I will be out of options. I know that my 2nd laptop has 2 small wifi cables that are rather delicate, idk about this one but maybe it also has 2 cables and they got lose somehow. But I think that is highly unlikely and I would probably void warranty if I unscrew the back.