CyprusMiraque
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Posts posted by CyprusMiraque
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I'm kind of exhausted and I'm looking for some help. My pc keeps crashing after about 5-60 minutes of gameplay. This issue has persisted even after I replaced my CPU and cooler as well as a whole host of other troubleshooting steps, and now I don't know what to do. Below I have included my pc's current and former specifications as I upgraded several components last weekend. The upgrades have not resolved this issue at all. Below I also included the steps that I have taken so far, as well as event logs, the minidump file that was generated through using Driver Verifier, and anything else I could find that is relevant.
PC Specifications (Pre-Upgrade):
- AMD Ryzen 3 3100 w/ stock Stealth cooler
- CORSAIR Vengeance RGB Pro SL 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 (
- ASUS ROG Strix B550-F Gaming
- EVGA SuperNOVA 750 GT
- Intel ARC A770 Limited Edition
- Elgato HD60 Pro Capture Card
- tp-link Archer TX3000E Wireless Card
- Samsung 970 EVO PLUS M.2 2280 500GB
- ADATA SX850 SATA SSD (boot drive)
Post-Upgrade changes (07-29-2023):
- Upgraded CPU to AMD Ryzen 5 5600X3D
- Upgraded cooler to DeepCool AG400 ARGB Single-Tower CPU cooler
- Transferred my boot drive onto a new Crucial P5 Plus 2TB PCIe M.2 2280 drive using MiniTool Partition Wizard.
[IMPORTANT NOTE: Crash issue was encountered several times prior to changing components, and has persisted through the hardware update.]
- I checked Event Viewer and found the most recent critical error which caused the system reboot. The error event file has been included below.
- I re-seated both my GPU and RAM.
- I updated drivers for every component and did a full DDU of my graphics drivers.
- I updated the BIOS of my motherboard to the most recent stable software available.
- I performed a MemTest on my RAM last night, and the RAM came back with a 100% pass score. During the several hour long MemTest my computer did not crash. This makes me consider that the power supply may not be the culprit here.
- I ran multiple benchmarks with Borderlands 3, keeping HWinfo open to monitor temperatures.
- I performed a driver test using Driver Verifier through Windows. The computer crashed only twice and not three times like I expected after talking to a Microsoft forum tech, then it initiated a repair. I then booted into safe mode to cancel Driver Verifier through an elevated command prompt, but it reported that the program had already been closed. I then restarted the system and left for work.
- When I returned home I deleted the Elgato capture card driver that was supposedly causing an issue according to the minidump file that was generated, and removed the capture card from my system. This doesn't seem to have helped, as the system crashed again 20 minutes later, several minutes into Borderlands 3.
- (The system has only generated a minidump file once, and that was after using Driver Verifier.)
- I opened HWinfo and ran Borderlands 3 for a second time after the crash, initiating a log and keeping an eye on my temperatures. The system did not crash again. The log file has been included.
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3 hours ago, Donut417 said:
The SB6141 was solid for at least 5 years with us. BUT its only any 8x4 modem so it doesnt support the fastest speeds. Ive heard good things about the CM500 I believe it was. But outside of that we are fast moving away from 3.0 modems.
Thoughts on this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077BL65HS/?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AwEAAAAAAAAAAUSQ
https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/best-cable-modem/amp/
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On 1/12/2023 at 7:13 PM, Donut417 said:
DONT. That modem has a defect in it from Intel. Intel FUCKED up the Puma 6 chip and they were not able to fix it with software updates. They were actually sued over it, or Arris was sued. Ive heard the issue can cause latency issues. The fact is all Puma 6 modems are effect and that would be every 32x8 channel Docsis 3.0 modem, as they all use that chipset. Id either go with a 24x8 or keep the ISP box.
Link to a thread on DSL reports discussing the issue: https://www.dslreports.com/forum/r31122204-SB6190-Puma6-TCP-UDP-Network-Latency-Issue-Discussion
Its 2022, what provider cant handle Docsis 3.1?I mean shit Docsis 4.0 is about to be deployed. My guess is they have lots of interference on their coax and dont want to fix it. Because Docsis 3.1 has tighter tolerances that the signal has to run at.
Modem wise at least on cable internet are rated for speeds based on the Docsis standard, or basically what your cable company can do. For example an 8x4 modem can do 260 Mbps on the Comcast network. Charter only does 100 Mbps thru that modem, etc. Routers on the other hand are a lot more complicated. Most routers are multifunction network devices as they do NAT, DHCP, Firewall, Wireless AP, ect. Depending on features enabled can vary speeds widely. With faster connections like Gigabit and up, it becomes harder to find a router because you need to make sure the SOC can do NAT at the speeds your provider provides. My Synology RT2600AC for example is rated for a little over 850 Mbps down I believe. Which means on my 400 Mbps down connection it works flawlessly. But features like VPN servers and things like that eat in to the performance of the SOC and will cause slower speeds as a result. The issue is most router manufactures dont advertise the numbers for how fast they can do NAT, at least not consumer grade routers. So sometimes you have to do some digging. On slower connections is less of an issue.
Is there a 3.0 modem that you would recommend?
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1 hour ago, Donut417 said:
You need a router as well. Unless you do another all in one unit. Id see if they have a more expansive list. Because I just seen Docsis 3.0 modems on that list. Most providers are now using Docsis 3.1 and some are about to start deploying Docsis 4.0. Docsis 3.1 can do multi gigabit download speeds (as long as the modem has a 2.5 Gbps Ethernet port) if the provider supports those speeds. Comcast my ISP currently does 1.4 Gbps down 45 Mbps up, and I hear 100 Mbps upload speeds are on the way in select areas AND 2 Gbps might be deployed soon as well.
I just got off the phone with my ISP, and they were actually SUPER helpful. I'll probably be going with a DOCSIS 3.0 modem, as they said that some customers depending on where they are located have had issues getting a stanle connection with 3.1 modems on the network. The representative recommended an Arris SB6190, so I might go with that.
Looks like I'll have a lot more research to do on routers though! Looks like from what I've seen, they seem to be the component that you do most of your feature-shopping for, in terms of connectivity and stuff like that?
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8 hours ago, Donut417 said:
First place to start is see if you can own your own modem. This is going to be depending on where you live in the world. In the United States for example Cable companies are required to allowed customer own modems and gateway. If you can own one its as easy as buying one and registering it with the ISP. IF you cant you may be able to put the ISP box in bridge mode and that turns the router functions off, essentially making it in to a modem and you buy what ever router you want.
In the case of cable internet the modem takes the coax connection and converts it to Ethernet. It will pass thru an IP address. The router allows you to take that one IPv4 address the ISP gives you and share it between multiple machines via NAT. Due to NAT the router creates a private network for your home allowing you to share files and services in your home, it also generally provides a DHCP server, Firewall, maybe a switch and Wireless access point, some business routers might not include wireless AP's for example.
What you most likely have is a gateway, a modem and router in one box.
That explanation really helped!
So it sounds like one of the things I need to get is a modem. My ISP here in the USA does allow me to use my own, but it sounds like I might need one from the list I added. Will I need anything else to connect our pcs over ethernet?
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I currently rent my modem/switch/ect. box from my cable internet service provider. With three gaming PCs in the house on wired connections and at least one tv streaming video over wifi most of the time, I'm looking to upgrade to something that I can own and will perform a LOT better that what I'm currently using.
I have NO IDEA where to start. I honestly don't know the difference between a router and a modem, so product suggestions for what to get and a small explanation would be massively helpful. Thanks!
Attached below is an image of the cable routers and modems listed as compatible by my ISP on their website, but I am unsure of if there are more.
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Budget: ~$350
Country: United States
Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Apex Legends, Minecraft with shaders and Terraria. Mainly upgrading to free up my gpu for another build. Will be streaming at the same time as well.
Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc):
Current monitor is 1440p 144hz.
Upgrading from a 1650 Super, planning on upgrading to a Ryzen 5 5600 and a b550-f motherboard.
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On 10/17/2022 at 6:41 PM, AbydosOne said:
It looks like the case you listed only has four slots, so 2+1+2 won't work (some mATX cases have a fifth slot beneath for dual height cards in the bottom slot). Maybe someone will come out with a single-slot ARC card, but I wouldn't hold my breath.
Why not use the encoder in the AMD card? Or failing that, get an Nvidia card and use NVENC? AV1 is good, but I don't think many (if any?) streaming sites support it yet.
Mainly because NVIDIA is out of my budget, and I mainly stream on obs right now which supports it
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On 10/18/2022 at 4:07 PM, MoonMaroon said:
Casewise any of Fractal Design or Phanteks cases look really good in that price range, I really like Fractal's Meshify C personally. If you can spare $30 more you can get a B550 board like this one new.
Otherwise, why not get an ARC A770 instead of two GPUs? The performance won't be as great in gaming but you'll get AV1 encoding for much cheaper compared to buying a 6700xt and an A380 separately.
Does that hold up for 1440p 144hz?
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Budget (including currency): Not super worried about it, >$100 usd for case, >$80 for used motherboard
Country: United States
Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Streaming, 1440p gaming.
Other details: Okay, so. My current build is a Ryzen 3 3100, Asrock B450m Pro4, and a Gigabyte Windforce 1650 Super, in the Cougar MG120 MicroATX case.
My current build plans are to upgrade to a Ryzen 5 5600x, a Radeon 6700xt, and use an Intel Arc 380 for stream and video encoding. I also need to have a spare pcie 1x slot accessible for my Elgato capture card.
Will it be possible to fit all of this in my existing case? I would ideally upgrade to a B550m that has wifi, but if I cannot fit both cards into my case with room for the other pcie 1x card, I may have to go with a full ATX board.
Does anyone have recommendations for a good midtower ATX case with solid airflow and solid sidepanels, that doesn't just look like a rectangular brick? I would also appreciate any motherboard suggestions for Ryzen 5 5600x.
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I'm currently in the market for an Nvidia 1650 Super GPU. I was planning on buying one from Zotac online, but a trip to my local Best Buy showed that they have the same model of GPU made by XLR8 (the 1650 Super) for the same price. Would there be any difference in software, support, or performance between the two?
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Does anyone else have issues shopping on B&H on mobile? I'm trying to add a few in-stock parts to my cart to buy in a few weeks, but I get an error message with about 40% of the site, including when trying to add them to my cart. Is this a common issue among the community, or is it just on my end and I should look elsewhere?
(The parts are a Ryzen 3 3100 and a Zotac 1650 Super)
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5 minutes ago, TofuHaroto said:
Yea answer is still the same
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I'm ordering it from amazon, so is that an option?
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1 minute ago, TofuHaroto said:
Most b450 boards ship with the new bios.
If it says "ryzen 3000 ready" on the box. Them it is.
MSI's MAX boards do support the AGESA code for zen 2 out of the box.
If they didn't ship with the new bios. Then just ask the vendor/ computer store to update it for you.
But what board are you getting exactly?
I edited the original topic to include a link
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So for my first time PC build, I'm building the $500 budget gaming PC from one of Linus's recent videos. (https://youtu.be/3dEfc9LL9bQ)
I'm looking over the parts list in Parts Builder, and I noticed the one conflict is something that Linus mentioned in the video: "Some AMD B450 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Matisse CPUs. Upgrading the BIOS may require a different CPU that is supported by older BIOS revisions."
If I'm using a Ryzen 3 3100, what specifically will I need to get in order to make this work?
Link to the board I'm using: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dQgzK8/asrock-b450m-pro4-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-b450m-pro4
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https://www.newegg.com/asrock-b450m-pro4/p/N82E16813157843?&quicklink=true
https://www.newegg.com/asrock-b450m-pro4/p/2MG-004K-00003?&quicklink=true
One of these say "Promontory", but I'm not sure exactly what that means.
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3 minutes ago, zeusthemoose said:
Its 30% over msrp (but afaik it has never been available at msrp), but here is a link to it on newegg.
Thank you!!!
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I've looked on about six or seven different sites to try and find one, from Newegg and Best Buy to ebay and even Facebook marketplace. The issue hasn't been that they've been listed and marked "sold out", but rather they just aren't showing up at all. Is there a better way to search for these parts?
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20 hours ago, 5x5 said:
Laptops are not overclockable in most cases. And I Tel laptop CPUs are much worse - the Ryzen 5 4600H is faster than the i7 10750H and the Ryzen 7 4800H is faster than every single intel laptop CPU.
As for what to get, get the 2060 model if possible paired with a Ryzen 5/7 as lntel run hotter and the laptops usually have worse heat issues on intel
They don't have one paired with a Ryzen processor. The best they have with Ryzen is a Ryzen 5 4600H with a GeForce 1650 TI
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54 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:
It's not overclocking wise, Ryzen is just a more efficient processor so it will be faster without losing as much battery life.
Ah, okay. I wish they offered one that has both a 2600 and a ryzen, but it looks like I'll have to compromise
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2 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:
Well, you get more cores and threads with Ryzen, and because in laptops Intel can't turn up its clocks super high because of power and thermal limitations, I would go with Ryzen if you have the option.
Hmm, I see. Are they still comparable if I don't plan on overclocking it?
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52 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:
Not as much, no. If you can find a model with a 2060 and a Ryzen 5, then go for that.
Is the Ryzen 5 better than the Ryzen 7 or the i7?
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40 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:
If you are looking just at gaming performance, just find the one with the best graphics card that is in your budget. It seems to be this one:
https://store.acer.com/en-us/nitro-5-gaming-laptop-an515-54-70kk
This seems to only have a 60hz panel, however it has an RTX 2060.
Does the processor type matter?
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Ram help
in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
Posted
Make sure your RAM sticks are inserted into the slot furthest from the CPU, then the next one after a gap. It should look like this, with X being where the RAM should be placed:
(CPU) [0][X][0][X]
In other words, make sure that your RAM is installed in slots A2 and B2. For some reason I couldn't get XMP to stick with them being in A1 and B1 (1 and 3, with 1 being closest to the CPU), using the same RAM kit you are. Make sure to set your XMP setting and not just the bit that says "memory frequency" or something like that. On ASUS or ROG boards, it may be referred to as DOCP. This needs to be enabled in the BIOS menu, and can generally be found near where the memory frequency is listed in the BIOS.
Hope this helps!