AncientPistol

I just shut down from Windows. PSU switch and UPS both stay on. When turning on I only have to press the power button on the case

How can I figure out what that is?

ram is in slots 2 and 4. BIOS is what arrived from factory, I did not update it because everything was working fine without updating it.

I have a pc with corsair tx650m psu. According to pcpartpicker the estimated wattage is 409W so even accounting for inefficiencies, power draw from wall should not be more than 500W. I have a UPS that is rated for 1100VA/660W where I have plugged the PC, the monitor (which according to manufacturer uses about 70W power) and a wifi router. Yesterday, while trying to boot it up, the PC shut down itself on the boot screen. I tried powering it on again and it worked, and then after a few hours when I turned on the PC a third time and once again it shut down itself. It does not restart, but completely shuts down. I have been told to try booting up the PC without the UPS, plugging it directly in the wall to see if that is the problem. Because UPS has enough rating I thought that is probably not the problem unless the PSU can suck a lot of power for a small duration. The reason I have not done it yet is because the PSU is a RMA unit, and the last time a similar situation happened, where I turned on the PC, it shut down at the time of boot but I turned it on and kept using it when a capacitor blew up with a loud pop and sparks. I was not using a UPS at that time. I am worried if it is a similar situation this time and I might end up damaging other components in the process if the same thing happens again. Also, if the UPS was the problem the monitor and wifi router should have also turned off in that case? The UPS is new, from APC company and I bought it for the PC to avoid these problems again and it should be able to provide enough power for all components. I even tested it by running CPU and GPU load test at the same time for a few minutes when I booted it up for the very first time and it worked fine that time. I have enabled PBO if that is relevant, other than that and enabling XMP I have not changed anything in BIOS. What should I do next? Parts list PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $294.99 @ Amazon CPU Cooler NZXT Kraken X63 98.17 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $149.85 @ Amazon Motherboard MSI MPG B550 GAMING EDGE WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard $184.99 @ Amazon Memory G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory $74.98 @ Amazon Storage Samsung 970 Evo Plus 250 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $69.98 @ Amazon Storage Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $54.99 @ Newegg Video Card Asus GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB STRIX GAMING Advanced Video Card $988.81 @ Amazon Case NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case $69.98 @ Amazon Power Supply Corsair TXM Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $109.98 @ Newegg Monitor BenQ EX2780Q 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor $449.99 @ Adorama Keyboard Cooler Master CK550 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard Mouse Logitech G403 HERO 16K Wired Optical Mouse $49.99 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $2498.53 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-10-19 09:32 EDT-0400

It stays off until I push the power button again

I built a new PC couple months ago, it had a Corsair TX650M PSU but after a few weeks its capacitors popped and I had to RMA it. The new one arrived a few days ago, first couple of days it worked fine, but today when I turned it on it shut down itself in a couple of seconds. I turned it on again and it worked fine, after doing my work I shut down the PC again. Then when I turned on the PC again couple hours later, it shut down again in a second. What is causing the problem? Is this PSU also faulty? Edit: I am also using a UPS rated for 1100VA/660W where I have plugged in PC, monitor and the wifi router. Could this have something to do with the problem? Parts list - PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $294.99 @ Amazon CPU Cooler NZXT Kraken X63 98.17 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $149.85 @ Amazon Motherboard MSI MPG B550 GAMING EDGE WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard $184.99 @ Amazon Memory G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory $72.99 @ Newegg Storage Samsung 970 Evo Plus 250 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $69.98 @ Amazon Storage Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $54.99 @ Newegg Video Card Asus GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB STRIX GAMING Advanced Video Card $998.99 @ Amazon Case NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case $69.98 @ Amazon Power Supply Corsair TXM Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $109.98 @ Newegg Monitor BenQ EX2780Q 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor $449.99 @ Adorama Keyboard Cooler Master CK550 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard Mouse Logitech G403 HERO 16K Wired Optical Mouse $49.99 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $2506.72 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-10-18 10:10 EDT-0400

I didnt plug it in to the PSU, just tried to plug it in the wall when the switch was off.

What you posted is what I got with the original PSU. I talked to the RMA support and they said I can visit their store and they'll replace the cord with the correct one

I bought a Corsair TX-650M PSU some time ago, and for the wall connector it had a 3 pin UK type connector, but its capacitors popped after some time so I had to RMA it. The replacement arrived today and I noticed it only has 2 pins for the wall connector and no ground pin. Also, this new connector doesnt fit quite as securely into the plug point as the previous one and a light pull can make it fall out of the socket. Should I be concerned about this or is it fine? The PC is connected through a UPS and not directly to the wall.

My friend is looking to get a new gaming PC in a tight budget. For CPU my initial recommendation was Ryzen 3300X but that is nowhere to be found in stock, so now he's looking at either Ryzen 3100 (4C8T, 3.6G Base, 3.9G boost) vs 3500X(6C6T, 3.6G Base, 4.1G Boost). The only use case is gaming, mostly FPS games like CSGO, R6, Valorant, PUBG etc. With the price difference between the two he can upgrade his GPU, so he can either get Ryzen 3100 + Nvidia 1660 Super or 3500X + 1650 Super. My question is will the 3100 bottleneck the 1660S? Which combo will be best for the given use case?

Thank you. I have sent a mail.

Model no. is CP-9020132-UK and what you are asking is I think 20014851

I did not know that. Are there other things I should be aware of? What about the monitor? Should I turn it off or not?

So I should not do anything after shutting down the PC from windows? I didn't know that or heard that before. But if I don't turn it off from the back then there is an LED in the GPU that stays lit and I thought its best that there is no power going to the PC when its not in use.

I built my first PC more than a month ago, for the PSU I got the Corsair TX650M PSU because the RMX series was out of stock and I was told the TX series is almost as good and I should have no problems. Then a few days ago when I turned on the switch on the PSU,I heard a loud pop. I did not know if it came from the PC or somewhere else and when I pressed the power button the PC booted up normally so I didn't think much of it. It worked for a few days and then when I was watching a YT video another loud pop, this time with a huge spark flying out of the PC, it tripped my MCB as well. I took the PSU out of the case and tried to look inside with a flashlight but couldn't really see much. I put it back in and booted up the PC, it booted fine but I turned it off again just in case, and it hasn't been turned on since then. I went to amazon to look at the ratings for the PSU and most of them are very positive, but when I filtered for the 1 star ratings almost all of them had the same complaint - loud pop that shut down the PC, including an eerily similar case, where someone's PSU made a loud pop, but booting again worked fine for a few days and then another loud pop accompanied by a big spark that tripped their MCB. The only difference is this happened to them in the first week after purchase so they returned it to amazon and got a replacement, except the replacement did the same thing so they returned that and got a full refund. For my case it happened after a month so the seller doesn't cover it anymore and I will have to RMA from Corsair directly. My question is: is this normal? Aren't PSU's supposed to be very reliable? It comes with 7 years warranty. Or is it something I am doing wrong? This is first time I built a PC and before this I always used laptops so I don't know much about these things. The case has ample space to breathe, the PSU is mounted with fan facing down, where there is a filtered space for air intake. PC is kept on a wooden table so its not suffocated from bottom. On the behind (where PSU plug and I/O are) there is 5-6 inch space and on back panel also there is about 4 inch space for air intake. Can someone tell what could be the reason? Is it the fact that I plugged the PC in an extension cable? Only the PC and the monitor are plugged into it nothing else. Is it because or 'dirty power' from the wall? But all other electronics have been working fine in the house for years. The room has AC on whenever I am using the PC, at 24-26C and no moisture. When I turn off the PC, I switch it off from the back of the PSU, but not from the wall. Couple times I forgot to switch off the PSU from the back and left the PC overnight after shutting it down from windows. I have XMP and PBO (Precision boost overdrive) enabled in BIOS Finally, should I get a replacement for this or just look for a better PSU? I definitely don't want this to happen again and possibly destroy other components as well. Sorry for the long post but this is my first PC and I saved for months to build it and I am scared. Full parts list: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $299.99 @ Amazon CPU Cooler NZXT Kraken X63 98.17 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $149.49 @ Amazon Motherboard MSI MPG B550 GAMING EDGE WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory $82.49 @ Newegg Storage Samsung 970 Evo Plus 250 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $69.98 @ Amazon Storage Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $54.99 @ Newegg Video Card Asus GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB STRIX GAMING Advanced Video Card $899.94 @ Amazon Case NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case $69.93 @ Amazon Power Supply Corsair TXM Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $123.62 @ Amazon Monitor BenQ EX2780Q 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor $516.90 @ Amazon Keyboard Cooler Master CK550 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard $124.78 @ Amazon Mouse Logitech G403 HERO 16K Wired Optical Mouse $49.99 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $2442.10 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-11 04:16 EDT-0400

Will I risk damaging other components doing this?

I built a new PC a couple months ago. It was working fine then a couple days ago, when I started it up it shut down itself while still on BIOS screen, I didn't think much of it and started it again, it booted up and was working fine for about 30 mins when I heard a loud pop and the PC had shut down. I immediately unplugged it from the wall. It looked like a short circuit somewhere because that pop also tripped the MCB switch for that plug. I took the PSU out from the case and tried to look inside with a flashlight but everything looks normal there and no burning smell either, the motherboard etc also look just fine. I plugged the PC into a different plug point and it booted up fine, so I thought maybe that first plug point had short circuited and not the PC and I called the electrician. Today the electrician came to inspect the plug and he said it was fine and the problem probably is somewhere in the PC. At the time of the incident the PC and the monitor were plugged into a Belkin surge protector which then went to the wall, nothing else was plugged in that socket. Since then I have not turned the PC on except for that one time for a couple minutes to see if the PC still works. Any idea what the source of that pop could be? What next steps should I take? I ordered the parts from two different website so the whole PC does not come under a single warranty, only individual warranties of the different parts. Parts list - PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $289.99 @ B&H CPU Cooler NZXT Kraken X63 98.17 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $149.99 @ B&H Motherboard MSI MPG B550 GAMING EDGE WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory $79.98 @ Amazon Storage Samsung 970 Evo Plus 250 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $69.98 @ Amazon Storage Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $54.99 @ Newegg Video Card Asus GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB STRIX GAMING Advanced Video Card $584.99 @ Best Buy Case NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case $69.99 @ Best Buy Power Supply Corsair TXM Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $123.77 @ Amazon Monitor BenQ EX2780Q 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor $516.90 @ Amazon Keyboard Cooler Master CK550 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard $174.21 @ Amazon Mouse Logitech G403 HERO 16K Wired Optical Mouse $49.99 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $2164.78 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-05 12:13 EDT-0400 .

I did suggest 10600K but my friend also streams and edits videos for youtube so he wants 10 cores for that. In terms of AMD he is not a fan for some reason, he's been on Intel platform for almost 15 years and doesn't wanna switch.

My friend is upgrading his PC to for the new RTX 3000 GPUs. In my region the 10900K is more than 40% more expensive than 10850K even though the specs are very similar. From what I have read 10850K is just lower binned 10900K that can't reach the advertised boost speeds. So should he go for 10850K or is there any other significant difference? Because otherwise the huge price different makes the choice a no-brainer.

The laptop was mid range when bought and barely starts up at all these days, editing pre recorded videos itself is a massive pain so we didn't even bother setting up any streaming software on it. But it is good to know this can be done on the cheap, I'll ask some of my friends if they are looking to sell their old laptops/pcs.

Is a discreet gpu not needed for encoding?

Budget (including currency): USD 600 or lower if possible Country: Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Streaming 1080p videos on youtube from Canon XA11 camera Other details: My mum works at a coaching institute and ever since lockdown they have been recording video lectures online on youtube. For this purpose, an old Dell laptop from 2012 was fine, but now they want to start streaming the lectures live so that students can interact and ask questions during the lecture. They already have a Canon XA11 camera that is being used to record videos, but the Dell laptop mentioned before is not powerful enough to stream live in high quality so they wish to build a PC that can capture the live feed and stream it to youtube. The youtube chat will also be open on the pc and some articles, videos etc that they can switch to if they want to demonstrate something. Goal is to build the cheapest pc that can accomplish this goal and will keep working reliably, it will be streaming approx 8 hours/day 6 days/week. Hopefully small form factor but that is not necessary if it adds to the cost. I am not familiar at all with streaming and not sure what all parts are needed (both hardware and software wise) so if someone can provide some general guidelines that will be a big help.

I have Asus ROG strix 2070 Super advanced GPU with Ryzen 7 3700X CPU. I play at 1440p so most games are GPU bound, so I was wondering if I can overclock my GPU to get a few extra frames out. Running Heaven benchmark for ~20 mins, my GPU clock was stable at 1950-1965MHz and memory clock was a constant 7000MHz. Temp was 66-67C and max it went to 69C. I have installed MSI afterburner but I have zero experience with overclocking so I haven't messed with anything yet. Can I get some meaningful overclock while keeping everything completely stable? If so, how?

I have the Benq ex2780q monitor that supports upto 144Hz refresh rate and 10bpc color but I am not able to turn them both on together. In the Nvidia control panel I am able to enable either 8bpc color with 144Hz or 10bpc with only 120Hz refresh rate. GPU is RTX2070 Super and I'm using a DP1.4 cable from Bluerigger to connect to the monitor. With 144Hz 8bpc in nvidia control panel, it shows 8-bit in windows display settings when HDR is off and "8-bit with dithering" when HDR is on. With 120Hz 10bpc it shows 10-bit in windows display settings in both cases. Is there a way to use 10bpc color at 144Hz? If not which setting should I use? Use case includes games like GTA V, Tomb Raider, Borderlands, Minecraft RTX etc and a little bit of comp games like CSGO, Valorant but not much.