Wizwerd

Icue is compatible with asus aura sync via their plugin EK is compatible asus aura sync so you can control EK RGB with icue as long as you have the plugin for aura sync with Icue. They should work reguardless if you use the EK commander or the Corsair commander pro.

I understand why I need to block that port next to the pump yeah. I just need to double check and make sure I have all the correct fittings for the soft tubing run and for the hard tubing to the pass through and I think I should be set.

yeah the last picture is close, but from the CPU to the rad I would use the top right fillport to run from the rad back to the plate and then run a connect tube to bring it back to the main pool.

It will be less than three feet of cable to the pump. I can route the molex under, through or behind the case. I am aware about how big of a cable mess is going to be back there with the 9 + 4 fans. Especially when they're corsair fans lol.

Ya, I'm going to buy one of the 3080's or 2100's whatever they're going to name it. I hear they will draw more power than the 2080's so I did want to go overboard with the radiator. The gpu should get coolant, if i don't start the loop at the open port above the pump. Should go from that line to the GPU and from the GPU back into the center line and from the center line to the CPU and from the CPU to the top left bottom port etc. It seems pretty straight forward to me. When it comes to power I figured that the pump would plug into the PSU? I assumed you could power on one pump and leave the other unplugged while you fill the loop and then restart the computer with both pumps plugged in. If the power from the pump on the rad isn't long enough I'm sure they make power extensions for it. But yeah manually turning the computer on and off if need be.

ya I get you, that's why I really appreciate the reply and the help you've given. I'll need some time to digest this. I got a reply from chris earlier this morning so right now I'm adding all the fittings for the zmt tubing but I'm not sure which ones fit the 15,9/9,5mm you recommended. I drew a sketch of what it will kind of look like. Right now the Idea is to attach a pass through bracket at the top (not sure if that fits) of the p3 and run the hard tubing to the top of the bracket and make the switch to zmt at the top and add a QDC from EK near the top of the loop. I can't disagree with that, but looking through their site they have different models for the same fittings? I think this one fits https://koolance.com/qd3-fsg4-bk-quick-disconnect-no-spill-coupling-female-threaded-g-1-4-black not sure though. Also do you think the weight of the metal QDC's would cause a potential wear & tear or leak? These guys who've been helping me in discord a bit were more concerned about that than I was. My room is pretty dark so the ZMT will kind of blend in the background and not be noticeable with the main focus being on the case or the rad. Main reason I got the MO-RA were the reviews I read and watched saying they still used their mora since they bought it in 2011. I liked the idea of an open case and now that I can keep this massive radiator between builds is pretty awesome. I plan on only sticking to clear fluids or concentrates to minimize potential gunk in the loop and I bought my coolants from mayhems. Ya you have a point there as well. It does look more gutty with the soft tubing being noticeably worse than the hard tubing. My bad dude, I started replying a bit all over the place here haha. I'm trying to be flexible with the tubing/fittings incase if something doesn't work. I would prefer to keep it 14mm hard acrylic tubing with nickel plated ek classic fittings because I think they look the best. With the soft tubing I think ZMT and nickel plated classic fitttings too works/looks best. With ZMT won't have to worry about the quality of the tubing degrading over a short period of time and the darkness of the ZMT would match well with the dark corner of my computer room. I added a picture of where I planned on running the tubes and I added a picture of the cart for the soft fittings I needed. I probably don't need all those STC 10/16 fittings. I think i only needed 8? and 4 clamps? unless if im going all clamps then I would probably need 16 i think. I might have missed something, my dad came over and I lost my train of thought in the middle of this reply haha. He took an interest cause he knows about fittings for plumbing a bit and wanted me to run down to the hardware store and use garden hoses & stuff ahaha. Hes a boomer, can't be helped.

Alright I looked into it a bit more, so they do have clamps which look like these https://www.ekwb.com/shop/tube-clamp-pvc-13-15mm-black So hes saying I put this on the soft tubing side so the barbed stays attached? I read their article on fittings a couple of times over, It didn't sink in at first but I think I'm willing to compromise on zmt if it means I can get a compression fitting on there so its better secured. also didn't realize that the ID didn't matter in this case because they're both 10mm its that the OD is 1mm larger on the hard tubing.

yeah I contacted EK and they responded saying: Hello, Thank you for contacting us today you would need a f-f extender so you could connect the hard tube fitting on one side and the soft tube on the other side, unfortunately, the only 13mm soft tube fitting we have that would work with the zmt would be these which are just barbed fittings not full fittings so you would still need a clamp with them https://www.ekwb.com/shop/fittings/barbed-fittings/for-13mm-1-2-id-tubing and the f-f extender would be one like this https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-extender-12mm-f-f-g1-4-black If you have any other questions or need any additional help please feel free to ask Best regards, Chris I don't think I fully understand. Do the tubing sizes need to be the same on the ID or would the soft tube be ok being smaller? I figured if the ID was smaller then the pump will just have a little more head pressure to deal with which is fine since I'll have 2 pumps. Since chris said only the barbed fittings will fit and that i'll need a "clamp" with them, I'm not sure what the clamp looks like in this case or if they even sell them. yeah that's a good idea but the only quick disconnect EK has is this 10 mm coupling and based on the details I think my tubes don't match up? 10/13mm (soft) tubing and two additonal clamps are designed to be used with 10/16mm (hard) tubing? Negative nancy man I've seen p3 builds with distro plates attached where you would put the radiator and they look awesome but bykski was the only manufacturer that even made a specific distro for it and it has a ddc pump with a lot of bad reviews. The dimensions show that the distro I ordered fits the space so there shouldn't be any "dead space". Worst case scenario is that the mounting screws don't line up with the holes provided on the p3. For that I can get a bracket and make holes for the mounting screws so it will fit. I've been working on this build for several months now so I'm not exactly linking parts willy nilly. I tried contacting several custom distro shops to see if they could fabricate a custom plate but they refused since it probably didn't seem worthwhile for them and suggested using one of their universal distro's instead. I didn't do that cause their universal ones look ugly imo. When it came to fittings I had overlooked that most people don't ever connect soft - hard tubing and I assumed EK with their standard tubing sizes would be able to match something like this but I was wrong, my mistake. I didn't do enough research on the tubing because I didn't think it would be a potential problem, just pick a size that you think looks good and match the fitting and you're all done! Well that was true until I decided on this MO-RA3. Although the picture I linked looks fantastic I didn't really care to have my radiators hanging off the top/side of the case. If anything I thought it would be easier to use this MO-RA3 and just run a soft tube to it. No big deal right? Don't be so quick to judge what It will look like man. I picked the case because of how easy it is to see and reach everything. Don't have to struggle to get your fingers to screw something inside of a blocky case. I was going to wall mount both the case and the rad but I don't think I can hang 40 pounds of weight on the walls next to my desk : / Now that I think about it, I could get fittings/tubes from another website. Sorry for the wall of text lol, I'm just so frustrated with trying to find what seems like simple answers to simple questions and being judged on the entire build without a straight answer to the original question.

pls respond :[

Hey guys, I'm trying to finish my parts order for my custom loop. I'm planning on connecting my loop to an external mora3 radiator and I wanted to have the hard tubes from the top of the distroplate reach over the back of the case and connect the hard tubes to soft tubing (zmt) type tubes and from there reach to the d5 pump that I'm attaching to the radiator. My problem is that I don't know what fittings or size tubing I need to connect my 14mm acrylic tubing from EK in order to do this. I had some help in discords but I'm trying to finish the ordering process and I wasn't able to get clarification. So far from what I understand is that I need x2 f-f adapter but after that im completely lost. I listed my current parts list order so feel free to critique but I'm pretty set with the list so far. I understand that the distroplate isn't made for my case but I'm trying to see if I can mount it anyway. The dimensions will fit but I expect that the mounting screws on the back might not and that I might need to make adjustments to the case in order to make it fit. If it doesn't I can still return it. I drew a picture with how I planned on having it sit on my desk, I do have enough desk space to fit both the case and the rad. Thought I'd share my thought process on this a bit more. I saw some guy cut a hole in the mora feet for his hard tubing to pass through, I thought it was a cool idea and that I might try that out as well.

Currently thinking about getting a watercool MO-RA3 and putting Corsair QL120's or QL140's (9 fans total) in my custom loop build, everything is copper/nickel but the fins in the radiator are aluminum. is that ok? or will they be susceptible to corrosion? I know that most AIO's mix metals but they have specific coolant to prevent corrosion in their own products but I'll be mixing products with this build. If that won't work well then I was thinking about getting x2 360 Corsair or HWL black ice GTS 360 30mm rads instead. I also wanted to know if the QL's in general were ok for radiator fans? They seem to get a lot of flack for performance but the spec's on corsair's website seem good. I'm not sure how much "static pressure" is needed for thick or thin radiators but I read that My case is a core p3 and I'm also looking for a good distro plate to put on it but there is only one made for it and its a ddc pump which I really want to stay away from. I've read a ton of bad reviews about DDC pump failures, loud operation noise, and lower performance in general. I reached out to a couple of custom distro plate shops but they won't make a custom one to fit and suggested using one of their universal distro plates instead. I thought their universal ones were kinda ugly so right now i'm looking to see if I can't make an O-11D D5 distro plate from EK or something similar in dimensions fit instead. Sorry if I seem everywhere with this post but this build right now I've been working on has had me struggling for weeks.

i-10900k is notorious for being a very spicy CPU. Power hungry, and runs hot as heck

You heat it with a heat gun to make it bend then place it in the mold and allow it to cool for the bend to take place. It doesn't take long to cool down and should mold just fine. I did watch someone on YT use lego's as a mold but I haven't tried it myself.

Tech yesterday was my last day but since I called amazon and complained and proved the bearings were bad they let me return it today. Now I just have to hope I can press purchase in time when the 3080 ti's come out

@Windows7ge thought i'd give an update. I'm returning the GPU for a full refund today. Hoping that I can get an EVGA or founder's card or just wait for the 3080 ti and see if i can't snag one.

Never heard of XSPC until now. I just went to check out what they had and I have to say its aesthetically disappointing. Its not compatible with any RGB software. Right now i'm trying to get everything sync'd up with my iCUE profiles cause I bought their k95 plat xt keyboard and the profiles are amazing. I went with an ASUS mobo because they had a plugin for it in iCUE but I'm trying to find out if EKWB can be configured through iCUE from Asus Aura Sync. Also trying to find out if I buy an EKWB controller or do I use the iCUE commander/controller.

Hey everyone! Currently trying to find out if I can sync all my rgb to work from my iCUE profiles. In my current planned build I'm going to have an ASUS Z490 GAMING E mobo and I planned on going EKWB for the custom loop. I emailed EK support and they could only confirm that their RGB software is compatible with ASUS Aura SYNC. If I can control ASUS aura sync from my Icue profile then I should be able to control the custom loop as well right? Do I buy an iCUE commander and plug all the EK rgb into it in order to control it? or do i buy an EK controller and run it from iCUE? If anyone can answer this complex question that would be awesome! I'd rather not have to build my custom loop with Corsair if I didn't have to because I wanted to go with a distro-plate d5 pump instead of a pump from corsair. Also my GPU isn't compatible with Corsair Waterblocks, I'd have to buy one from bykski.

yeah, the GPU block will be from bykski so it should be a good block. Trying to stay away from corsair water cooling as best as I can.

yeah, I really only plan on using this GPU for a year or two and then I might sell it for $500-$600 or w/e I can get for it. I might only have to wait a month or two before I do my custom loop so when I go to apply new paste later this week I'll poke around but very very carefully lol.

I've had this GPU for about a month now, the fans have been rattling since I got it. I don't really want to return it cause the card isn't broken and it seems fixable. I also read RMA reviews from Zotac from similar cards that people have sent it back for an RMA and the problem wasn't fixed. I'd rather try and see if I can fix this myself. I've looked at the fans and spun them and they don't make this rattle noise when I do it only when its running in the case. Do you guys think its the bearing? Can I just put some oil on it and see if that'll work? Never taken apart one of these before but I figured I was going to eventually. I plan on putting a waterblock on this bad boy when I build my custom loop. I did get some Hydronaut paste from thermal grizzly, I did plan on putting a fresh coat of that later on this week. This card can get really hot if I don't actively have MSI afterburner on to regulate the fan speeds. One time I forgot to start afterburner and the card started cooking itself at 88c after an hr of RDR2. I only caught on when I smelled something burning but that was almost two weeks ago. I did think about returning it a couple of times but the only available 2080 TI's left are over $1400 easy if you can even find one. If I did return it i'd probably wait for a 3080 at this point. IDK what do you guys think, fixable? Return it? Wait to waterblock it? I appreciate any replies & responses thanks. rattling_gpu_fan.mp4

yeah, I am going to water cool but this gaming desktop I'm building as a DIY project just put me $500 in the hole so I have to wait on the Watercool setup for the time being. I think the 10700k is the perfect cpu for what im trying to do atm.

Cyberpunk 2077 will use up to 8 cores which is why I didn't consider the 10600k. I thought about the 10900k for all but 10 seconds until saw the pricetag lol.

ah ok, makes sense. I really don't know much about amd. I haven't been amd since my last build (before the one i'm currently using) and the thought of having to learn the quirks of amd is kinda giving me a headache atm. I think im just gonna pony up the extra cash and go 10700k, I got a feeling I'll regret it if I don't. I appreciate all the replies guys thanks.

Didn't gamersnexus just make a video on the 3800xt being a waste of silicon cause in some cases the 3800x out performs the 3800xt?

yeah shopping for Intel right now is really shitty. The only downside with amd is that they have lower cpu GHZ which affects performance in games on average between 10-20 frames vs intel. Yeah I could return the mobo and cpu and get the equivelent 3800x/x570 The mobo is $30 more but I save about $140 on the cpu.