williamli9300

Thanks for everyone's help, I ended up pushing my Vsoc to 1.15V and I haven't had any issues with random crashing or P95 RAM errors yet, either on Auto or DOCP.

Yes, 4201 is the lates BIOS provided on the ASUS website that updates AGESA to ComboV2PI 1.2.0.7. I don’t believe my motherboard has this option—I think that’s a Gigabyte-specific feature. I haven’t tried either of these things yet, but I probably will. To be honest, I’m not looking to do a tonne of tuning, I just wanted a smooth to-spec out-of-the-box experience that I could set up in a day or two and finish up on some work before I’m moving at the end of the month. I know that computer parts are finicky, but honestly I would have hoped that companies would at least let their products work as advertised out-of-the-box. Then again, it’s also kind of my fault for not sticking to the QVL.

I’ve been having some issues that I’ve been trying to fix for over a week, and having read dozens of forum posts, run many tests, have finally decided to come ask for help. The Issue This is a PC build from about two weeks ago, an upgrade from a previous system. All new components. At stock settings I ran CBR23 once, then I went right to playing around with PBO2 in BIOS (negative curve offset, etc). Also enabled DOCP in BIOS. Remembered about CTR2.1RC5, but it was giving me some error in the log console, and couldn’t list my CPU/MB (I had also set LLC to L3 for CTR). Decided to give Ryzen Master curve optimizer a try instead. Stress tested w/ P95 blended, no issues for over an hour. Started having spontaneous crashing (more info below), checked WHEA logs (Processer Core/Machine Check Exception/Cache Hierarchy Error) and most pointed to APIC ID 6 (some to 11). Reduced curve offset from -30 incrementally to around -5 on core 3, then each time stress tested with P95 for hours with no issues. Went away for just over a week, and when I got back I realized I had two or three crash/restarts during the week, with the computer sitting at idle. Decided to reset BIOS to Optimized Defaults (with the exception of disabling Armoury Crate, changing Boot Option to Windows UEFI, and enabling SVM). Still getting spontaneous reboots. I got suspicious about if it was the CPU or if it was actually RAM, just showing up as CPU error in WHEA. Ran AUTO RAM profile, tested in P95 with Large FFT’s, fifteen minutes no issue. Changed to DOCP, started getting errors within five minutes (Fatal Error: Rounding). Tried increasing the RAM voltage to 1.375 for DOCP in case memory wasn’t getting enough voltage to be stabled, but that ended up boot cycling my PC. Tried running 2 and 3 of the sticks at a time, sometimes they’d take longer to error, sometimes more than 6 workers would throw errors in the first two minutes. It didn’t seem to correspond to any combination of the RAM sticks. Plonked all four sticks back in (running DOCP) and as soon as I started a P95 test I BSOD’ed. I then cleared the CMOS then dialed it back to AUTO RAM profile, and got a worker error in less than 8 minutes. I thought I was stumped before with the spontaneous crashes, but now I’m really stumped. With the same settings, sometimes it’ll take a while to get any errors, and sometimes it’ll just boot cycle. Sometimes it’ll throw errors so quickly half the workers would be stopped before I can even open HWiNFO. But then I ran a Small FFT test to see if there are any CPU errors, and got nothing for half an hour (I know that’s not a long time, but recall that Large FFT errors all showed up within five minutes). I really have no idea what’s going on. TLDR: Random crashes w/ PBO2 curve opt. Removed curve opt. Loads of P95 Large FFT errors with no OC. No errors Small FFT. DOCP makes errors show up quicker. Things to Note - I pulled a silly and used RAM that’s not on the QVL for my motherboard. I didn’t think it would be an issue because neither my SN850 nor 870EVO/870QVO SSDs, nor my HX1000 PSU are on the QVL either. I just assumed they would be fine and the list was just old, since it was last updated in 2020. - I should note that each time a worker got an error in P95 when I was testing the RAM, it wasn’t consistently one worker—it was pretty random from what I could tell. Sometimes one in the 20’s, sometimes 8 or 10, sometimes 31 or 32, or even just as I’m typing this worker 15 threw an error. Can’t seem to find a pattern, which is why I suspect RAM. - I did wonder whether my CPU’s getting adequate cooling because I did mess up my thermal paste application and now I’m out of paste (waiting on a Newegg delivery), but there should be enough on there. I was also confused because in a 30º C ambient room I get idle temps in the high 40’s/low 50’s, but Tdie still hardly gets warmer than 60 under load), so I don’t think thermals is why I’m crashing. - As my RAM is supposedly supposed to be “Ryzen-optimized” (I’m not that naïve, I only got it because it was cheaper than my other 3600C16 options, not because of the marketing), it defaults to 3200 MT/s instead of 2133 MT/s. - No, I did not close the side panels before I booted the PC for the first time. My question is, what’s wrong, and what should I RMA/replace do now? Thanks for any help you can provide! Possible Causes: - MB/RAM Compatibility (i.e. “should have stuck to the qvl”) - Bad RAM - Bad MB - Bad CPU Specs - CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5950X - MB: ASUS Crosshair VIII Hero (Wifi) - RAM: 2x 16GB Corsair Vengeance RGB RT DDR4 3600MT/s C16 Kit (CMN32GX4M3600C16) (x2 — 64GB total) - Cooler: Corsair iCUE Elite Capellix 150i 360mm Radiator - GPU: Gigabyte RTX 3070 Vision OC - PSU: Corsair HX1000 1000W 80+Platinum - SSDs: WD Black SN850 2TB NVMe (boot), Samsung 870 EVO 4TB (x2), Samsung 870 QVO 8TB (x2) - Accessories: EZDIY-FAB PSU Extension Cables (24pin MB, 4+4 CPU, 8+6 GPU), ShakMods Extension Cable (4pin CPU) - OS: Windows 11 Pro v21H2 - BIOS: v4201 (AGESA ComboV2PI 1207) Edits: Spelling.

By local transfer, do you mean connecting the two devices to the switch simultaneously and using file transfer to test the speed? Or perhaps I should abandon the switch altogether and just connect my Macbook’s TB port with my mobo’s ethernet jack?

i will try turning off energy saving when I get home. as I mentioned, my Macbook Pro (2018) consistently gets 900+ mbps uploads AND downloads when connected to the same port on the sam switch, with the same cable (using a thunderbolt 3 to ethernet adapter). speeds were all tested using the Ookla Speedtest desktop app for MacOS and Win 10, respectively.

I have a "gigabit networking" plan from Telus (950+ Mbps U/D advertised speeds). I have a modem in the garage, from which I run a CAT5e cable to my room from. In my room is a 10 port gigabit Dlink switch with no more than two active connections at a time (when I did the attached test, my PC was the only one using the network). We do not have many other devices running at the same time which consume bandwidth. I am certain that the outward connection from the switch is perfectly fine, since I have gotten 960/980 speeds on my Macbook Pro via thunderbolt adapter, from the same port on the switch with the same cable, right after the attached test. My motherboard is a MSI X570-A Pro, with a Realtek 8111H PCIE GbE Network Controller. I've updated the driver, reset the router/modem, changed an ethernet cable, etc, and I'm stuck on how I might get my PC's network speeds up to where they should be. The only thing I know might help that I haven't done yet is throwing out the entire motherboard. Just in case this might help, here are my "Advanced Settings" under Device Manager: Advanced EEE: Enabled ARP Offload: Enabled Auto Disable Gigabit: Disabled Energy Efficient Ethernet: Enabled Flow Control: Rx & Tx Enabled Gigabit Lite: Enabled Green Ethernet: Enabled Interrupt Moderation: Enabled IPv4 Checksum Offload: Rx & Tx Enabled Jumbo Frame: Disabled Large Send Offload IPv4/IPv6: Enabled Max RSS Queues: 4 Power Saving Mode: Disabled Priority & VLAN: Enabled Receive Buffers: 512 Receive Side Scaling: Enabled Speed & Duplex: Auto Negotiation And the rest should be irrelevant, I think(?) I should probably also note that I tested my network speed four or five times after this, it either stayed the same or the download would fluctuate up to 300 and then come back down. Historically my PC has never gone faster than 500 Mbps, even with the GbE plan and same hardware. I am running Version 10.45.928.2020 of the Realtek PCIe GbE Controller driver. Thanks for any help!

There’s another thread asking a similar question here, but it’s from 2013, and I was wondering how much things have changed. I’m planning on deploying a couple TB NAS solution at home, mainly for routine/prescheduled full-computer and targeted folder backup, as well as manual backup of some files. I’ll be dumping lots of photos and videos from SD cards plugged into my PC, if that has anything to do with software recommendations. I’m considering either getting a pre-built Synology NAS (something like a 4-bay DS418), or building my own for a similar budget (~$600 +- 100 CAD not including hard drives). In terms of custom-built, I’m thinking about either an Athlon 3000G or R3 3200G processor with a B450 motherboard (probably PRIME A/CSM from Asus), 16gb Gskill Aegis 2666 memory, a WD Blue 3D NAND 250gb ssd (2.5” or M.2), and then a slightly cheaper 80+ bronze PSU and mATX mini tower to top it off. Could someone tell me, either from experience, anecdotal evidence, or even plain statistics whether a prebuild Synology NAS or a custom built solution like the one I listed above would be better for my use case (mostly backup, I don’t think I’ll be doing any projects directly off the NAS), and depending on your suggestion, recommend any products to optimize price, performance, and price-to-performance? Thanks a lot!

Just a bit of context first: I’m building a NAS running FreeNAS that I can use to back up photos and documents from my PC at home, and that I can use to directly save photos to when I’m on the go. There’s a little nook that I can keep it so preferably microATX mini tower or smaller. I’m from Canada and have a budget of <900$CAD (not including storage drives), preferably around 300-400. I’m looking at this build right now, but I’m worried about MB/CPU/RAM compatibility. Any advice or recommendations at around a similar price point would be greatly appreciated! CPU: AMD Athlon 3000G - 70$ MB: ASUS B450M A/CSM - 115$ RAM: 2x https://www.mikescomputershop.com/product/9082812 @ 78$ea OS Drive: Kingston 120GB A400 SATA M.2 SSD - 47$ PSU: Corsair CV450 - 70$ Case: Antec VSK3000 Elite - $70 If you have any recommendations, i have a few “hopes” for the parts: MB: 5+ SATA III ports, gigabit LAN, μATX or smaller RAM: minimum 16GB, DDR4 ECC memory OS drive: 64+ GB SATA M.2 Case: micro ATX mini tower or smaller thank you in advance!

But will it be enough? The two GPUs use 24 total, and the SSD and wifi card use 5 lanes total, making 24+5. Do SATA lanes, USB controllers, and/or RAM use PCIe lanes as well? If so, how much?

I'm building my own PC, and I ran into an issue which I think might have to do with PCIe lane availability. My build is as follows: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700x MB: MSI x570-A Pro GPU1: AMD Radeon Pro W5500 Workstation GPU GPU2: AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT Desktop CPU WD Black 1TB M.2 NVME SSD 4x Seagate Barracuda SATA HDD (probably gonna run in RAID 10) ASUS Intel Wifi/Bluetooth PCIe x1 Expansion Card Repurposed SATA ODD Edit 1: 4x 16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200MHz DIMM Will I have enough PCIe lanes to run everything? If not, are there any solutions that don't involve sacrificing any of the parts? Edit 2: Update – It all works now, turns out all I needed was a BIOS update

I was hoping for a wired solution that went directly into the GPU, so it would be a backup if I temporarily couldn't find a second monitor. I know that TDM works with PC, so I'm wondering if there are any not-so-official methods using a similar interface.

Hi SupaKomputa, I watched that video but according to Apple, the newer iMacs (newer than 2014) don't support Target Display Mode (TDM/ Cmd+F2). I was hoping for a wired connection that didn't use that, as my iMac is a 2015 iMac.

I'm building a new PC soon, but because of my line of work I still need to use my Mac occasionally. I really want to use my old iMac as wired secondary display for my PC that I could switch over to macOS when I needed, but there's nothing online, since my mac doesn't support Target Display Mode (TDM). I'd really prefer using the Mac as a second monitor instead of getting another one (because of cost, desk space etc.) The Mac is a 2015 iMac 4k 21.5" with Intel Core i7 processor. My GPU has DisplayPort and HDMI outputs. Is there any solution, preferably one that uses a USB-A input on the Mac's side (since I've heard that the thunderbolt ports on the Mac are out-only)? Preferably some settings to change on the mac, or a one- or two-cable solution, or with a free software? I've tried the Bootcamp/Miracast solution so it could be used as a secondary monitor like that, but I would much prefer a wired solution. I'm looking for a solution that is wired directly to the PC's GPU. Thanks in advance!

Linus has always been an advocate for repurposing old PCs as home media servers or NAS', so I thought, I have two really old PCs that haven't run anything better than Windows 7 and 8 respectively for a good four or five years, at least. I'm quite new to the PC world, and I'm not sure if the two CPU's are good enough for a home server and offsite backup, mostly for photos and videos. The first one is a Dell Inspiron 560 running an Intel Core 2 Quad, and the other is an HP Pavilion 500 running an AMD A10-7800 Radeon R7 APU. The A10 got a score of 232 in Cinebench R15, runs at 48 deg idle, and maxes at 82 during Cinebench. I haven't had a chance to bench the Core 2 Quad yet, since there might be an issue with the hard drive that I'm still trying to resolve. Would these two CPUs be good for running a home server/NAS and offsite backup running FreeNAS, or would they be not strong enough or overkill? If one or both wouldn't be a good fit, what could they be used for, before probably just selling them on eBay, and any recommendations for cheap CPUs good for the job? Thanks in advance!