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Marasmic

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Everything posted by Marasmic

  1. I have a 3700x and my priorities are by order of importance: -PWM controlled no USB/software nonsense -Quiet -Thermals -Warranty -Looks If the Arctic is the best choice, I'll go with that. I just really hate the way that waterblock looks, but I don't know if it's worth taking a ~2C hit to thermals for a prettier waterblock.
  2. I'm really on the fence with AIOs right now. I originally wanted the Fractal Celsius S28+, but I felt $150 was just too much for the performance that it offers. Then I stumbled on the Arctic Liquid Freezer 2 and the EKWB D-RGB and I have no idea which one to go with. On the one hand the Arctic performs better(by like 2C), but it's also extremely ugly with that VRM fan. The EK offers a 5 year warranty versus the Arctic's 2 year and the EK has a fill port. The Arctic seems to be quite a bit quieter too, but I assume that's largely due to the fans which can be replaced. Which one would you guys go with?
  3. Sorry to bump a dead thread here, but I ordered the 200MM Noctuas and they don't fit. If anyone else with an H500M happens to find this thread, it's not just a screw length issue. You would actually have to drill new screw holes to get them to fit because it doesn't matter how you orient the fans, they don't line up with the stock screw holes. So... I guess I'm back to square one here. The only option I have no is to order more of the OEM fans(which are poor quality and not PWM) or replace them with 3 high quality 140MM fans. Which would be the better option airflow to noise wise?
  4. $25 for 8 of them including shipping. err... Sorry, nevermind. Im an idiot and read the wrong one.
  5. I think the anti-vibration mounts the Noctuas come with should pull all the way through as well. I can't seem to find a 35mm screw that isn't going to end up costing me $12 for 4 of them.
  6. I have a Coolermaster H500M that I'm replacing the front fans on with non-RGB fans and I wanted to add some strips to lighten up my case a bit. I have no idea where to start with this, because from what I've seen the RGB ecosystem is a mess of proprietary connectors and voltages. I have a Gigabyte X470 Gaming 7 WIFI-50 and it has 4 different RGB headers on it. My only real priorities are that they are controllable by my motherboard, RGBW and preferably no separate controller. I'm not too worried about cost as long as it isn't outrageous. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
  7. I decided to just order the 200MM Noctuas. I found a post showing them mounted and apparently the issue most people are having is that the screws are too short. So, I'll find a way to make them fit.
  8. I've had my H500M for a year or two now and the 2 200MM fans on the front have both developed a pretty annoying bearing rattle. I've done a bunch of research and found that Noctuas won't fit due to the fact that they're 30MM thick and the slot only has 25MM of clearance. So, I'm wondering if I would just be better off replacing the 200MM intake fans with 3 140MM Noctua fans. The stock fans weren't that great out of the box and they're a 3 pin fan. I know I'll lose the RGB, but if I miss it, I'll just stuff some LED strips in the case. In terms of noise/airflow, do you guys think I would be better off buying more of the OEM 200MM fans or going with the 3 140MM Noctuas?
  9. It's intermittent and does it while the drive is in use.
  10. Dang.. I thought I was going to win the old video card challenge with my RIVA TNT2 Ultra, but you beat me by a year with that Voodoo.
  11. My experience with my wife's computer hasn't been quite as rosy as everyone else's experience here. It's running an RX580 paired with a Samsung CFG73. I have constant VIDEO_TDR blue screens and I have to fight with the graphics card for 30 minutes to get Freesync to work every time the display port cable gets disconnected. I still have no clue which combination of unplugging the monitor and restarting the computer actually fixes the Displayport black screen issue. But, once it's working I don't dare touch it because it will break again if I look at it wrong.
  12. That's basically what I was figuring. Outside of VRMs and coolers, the cards all behave the same. I'll probably just get one of the 2.2 slot cards. I don't think the FTW is worth another $100+.
  13. There's 4 and they all use the same ICX3 cooler. https://www.evga.com/products/ProductList.aspx?type=0&family=GeForce+30+Series+Family&chipset=RTX+3070 My question is will all of the cards boost to the same point assuming they don't hit a thermal or power limit? edit: The FTW uses a beefier cooler.
  14. I noticed that EVGA has 4 separate SKUs for the 3070, all 4 using the same cooler. My question is that outside of binning is there any real difference between them? I bought a 2060 XC Ultra at launch and looking at reviews, it seems like FE cards will boost just as high as mine does. Do all modern graphics cards just boost as high as possible, until they hit a thermal or power limit?
  15. No problem. I'm wondering if I would just be better off getting a power conditioner / surge unit instead of a UPS. It seems like most of these UPS have pretty shoddy construction and cut corners for cost. I do a lot of audio production. My main goal is just to eliminate noise.
  16. Are you sure you're looking at the right UPS? This page says sinewave for the BR1500MS. I could also just be dumb and misreading the page.
  17. Thanks for the response. APC claims that it's a pure sinewave on battery... I don't know if that applies to the line conditioning they do to wall power or not.
  18. Hi, I recently bought a UPS and when connected to the UPS, my power supply makes a pulsing buzzing noise. It's like a slow gradual buzzing that fades in and fades out. I tested plugging my computer directly into the wall and the noise stopped. I bought this UPS primarily to clean up the power coming out of my wall and it seems that ironically, I've actually put noise on the line with it. Is there anything I can try to fix this or should I just return the UPS? Also, this noise is happening when the UPS is running off wall power, not battery power. The UPS is a BR1500MS My PSU is a Seasonic 650 Focus+ Platinum
  19. Hola, I recently reinstalled windows and apparently my computer was possessed during the process, because I'm having all kinds of issues. The most recent being that my graphics card is insanely slow to boost clock speed. If I let the card sit long enough to drop back down to idle clocks, switching windows on my desktop or scrolling in Firefox lags for a second and kind of hangs my system. It wouldn't be a big deal if this was an infrequent thing but it's everytime I stop to read a sentence on a website or switch windows on my desktop. Anyone have any idea how to fix this? Also, the card is set to maximum performance in Nvidia control panel and my system is set to Ryzen high peformance.
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