SuperStreetFighter

Thanks for explaining it better as I'm not an expert in this, but I did figure out a very simple solution that makes me feel pretty dumb for not realizing it sooner, just plug everything into the sensor that actually works ! The one Fan Control reads and works with is the ITE - IT8689E which has more than enough plugs for your needs, you got CPU, CPU_OPT, System1, System 2, System 3, so plug everything into those and you're good to go ! So for anyone with Gigabyte X570 or X670 boards, that's your solution

What's the latest word on Gigabyte's X570 and X670 motherboards with 2 chipsets ? Is Fan Control still not able to detect and control some of the fans like before ?

neat program, keep up to good work, would definitely buy if you make it a full fledged thing. I've tried Argus Monitor, Gigabyte's terrible software, few other lesser known programs, but I have issues with all of them. I've read a few pages of this thread and it seems like for the X570 Master it's a known issue that Sys_Fan 4 & 5 are greyed out, as is the D5 pump @ Sys_Fan 6. Will these be added in a future update maybe ?

I already explained why, it's a 12 year old engine that isn't good.... doesn't utilize the newest gen tech, etc....educate yourself more on what you're saying first before you say it... that's like my jumping into a car forum saying hey why isn't a car from 10+ years ago being used to test lap records ?

That's an insane statement OP.... not even close to the truth... The Total War games run on Warscape engine which was made in 2009 ! nobody in their right mind would ever consider using an engine over a decade old for legitimate modern benchmarking. Warscape was created for Empire Total War and developed for Gunpowder warfare by design, which is why it's so terrible when they used it for Melee games like Rome 2 and Atilla. This engine was notoriously bad at using multiple cores, it used to just load 1 core and max it out while others sat idle, that went on for years until they recently updated the engine to 64 bit with Warhammer 1 which alleviated the issue somewhat, but it's still the same rotten 11 year old engine underneath.

Username checks out

All this is all done on my $900 IPS 2K 165hz Asus G-Sync monitor and a 2080 Super, so yea I've definitely seen "100+FPS" But it works just fine for me, I'd rather have my temps drop almost 10-15 degrees than to have an extra 40-50 fps that are hardly noticeable.

One thing that I've rarely if ever seen recommended for these types of questions/topics is simply LIMITING THE FRAMERATE... this lowers your load temps by a lot The games I play my card is capable of pushing anywhere between 100-150fps..... now if I go into Nvidia settings and limit my FPS to 60fps, my temperatures under load drop dramatically, I'm talking like 10c-20c depending on the game. Battlefield 5 for example my card was getting to about 65c's under load with 110 fps roughly... I limit the rate to 60fps and load temps were just over 50c's... and I could not notice any difference between 60 and 110 fps, anyone who tells you they can is a liar, or a professional gamer, lol So unless you're playing a highly competitive online shooter where you need massive FPS, just limit your framerate and it will drop your temps a LOT

Those aren't Barrow fittings, they are Bykski's Anti Off Rigid fittings or most likely some kind of knock off.... It's a new design, and it's tested to hold 15kg of weight once attached properly, here is a link. https://www.bykski.us/collections/rigid-10x14 I have Barrow fittings as well but they required quite a bit of force in seating the tube properly, I was afraid I'd damaged my chipset at one point. So then I switched over to this style, these ones are a LOT easier to work with and don't require much pressure at all to install, you simply put the black rubber over the tube and gently place it inside the already installed fitting, you must be installing them wrong since you already don't seem to know how they work. Here's a picture of mine... by the way I did ye ole PULL THE FITTING OFF TEST WITH BARE HANDS..... My regular Barrow's came right off, meanwhile these ones took a LOT of strength to pull off, they are on there WAY TIGHER than the typical barrows, that 15kg test they said is for real

True scientific fact yes, but when it comes to multiple high power fans doing work in a confined space, that whole aspect of it is negligible.

I've had pretty much every fan you can buy over the last few years, and my newest Arctic P12's are even better than my Noctuas. Noctuas make this distinct noise when higher in the RPM range, especially their 15mm slim fans which sound like helicopters.... the Arctics remain steady however and they perform right up there with Noctua, I'm a huge fan literally bought 10 white transparent ones If you look at some recent YouTube fan reviews Arctic is right up there on the top of the chart with Noctua

Normal Taskbar bottom (Stardock Start10 customized though) for tasking around, and I have a Rainmeter Droptop taskbar on the Top of the screen to access all other PC functions, attached a pic. There's many themes I can choose from, really is a nice plugin

what are you talking about here ? Are you talking about having the Pump running 100% or the Radiator Fans going 100% ? The pump you can run at 50%, the radiator fans you can run at 50% as well and only crank them up higher when you're gaming.. You can do this manually or simply set temperature curves that adjust the speeds automatically, can be done for both Pump and Radiator Fans.

I have a 3800x Lian Li XL build with EVERYTHING underwater, CPU+VRM+Chipset+GPU.. 1 alphacool 30mm rad, 1 EKWB 27mm rad... The max temps I'm seeing is 65c's after some Prime95 runs, so yea your temps are definitely "off the charts" First thing I notice from the picture is your whole loop is like an over engineered German car, it's a bit more complicated than it needs to be. I've seen numerous XL builds and not many with dual reservoirs and none with dual res and only a single Radiator. I'm not going to point the finger and say that's the whole reason for your issue but I'd bet there's a good chance if you redid your whole loop in a more standard fashion you'd get better results. Things to try... 1) make sure your pump is flowing correctly (fluid constantly moving not given a chance to get hot is one of the most important things) 2) make sure there's no issues with the fluid (properly mixed? clogs?) 3) get yourself a fluid temperature sensor ($5 a small price to pay) 4) Take apart the CPU block see if there's any issues with the Flow plate, it may have been damaged or is moved out of place, etc...

With my last 360 AIO cooler I saw almost no temperature difference running the pump at 50% and at 100%... I've been using AIO's for years and typically would have the pumps running around 50%, and never had a single failure even with "cheap" AIO units. Pump speed matters more when it comes to Custom liquid cooling and even then, not by as much as people would think depending on components and size of the loop.