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About Hydrag

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Gaming (creative, indie, interesting concept, no high fps), 3d animation and effects (3ds Max, Rhinoceros, V-Ray), Molecular simulations (Vibrational spectra, molecular orbital constitutions, ...), Photshop and After Effects work.
  • Occupation
    PhD Student


  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-4790 @ 3.6 GHz
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z97 Gaming 5
  • RAM
    2 x 8 GB
  • GPU
    NVIDIA GeForce 780 Ti
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define R4
  • Storage
    C: Samsung SSD 840 EVO 120 GB
    D: WD Elements 1 TB
    F: Seagate Barracuda 8 TB (USB)
    G: Seagate Barracuda 8 TB (USB)
  • PSU
    750w be quiet! power zone cm
  • Display(s)
    Benq EW3270U (3840 x 2160 HDR, 60 Hz)
  • Keyboard
    Razer Huntsman
  • Mouse
    Razer Basilisk
  • Sound
    USB-Interface (Focusrite Scarlett 2i2) with 2 x Adam Audio T7V Studio Monitors
    Headphones : Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
  • Laptop
    Ideapad S400U (Core i3-3227UM, HD Grafik 4000, 4 GB DDR3 1333 MHz RAM)

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  1. Hi, I'm not even sure if that belongs here, but I guess since it's about external hard drives and an issue it would make sense. So I was trying to copy about half a terrabyte of files yersterday to my friend's mac book. As I'm using Windows and don't care much about formatting new external storage media, I didn't really care for the format and kept it at exFat. He, as a Mac user chose NTFS of course, but we both have basically the same external harddrive vom Intenso. Now, he connected both drives to his USB hub and tried to copy the files vom a to b. It started but after a while my exFat drive would always start to boot up for a few second and then boot down. It would still copy those files but the whole thing became super slow while the Mac OS bacially became unresponsive during that time. So it would really mess up with the system. We unplugged, replugged, restarted but it would always end up like this. So we pulled out the USB Hub and connected them to two different USB bus on the Mac and then it worked as it should, fast transfer and no boot down. Now you might assume that it is an issue with the USB hub, but we tried multiple NTFS drives and other USB peripherals and they were all accessed perfectly. Also the exFat drive works in combination with my other exFat ones on my Windows PC and a hub as well. So my question is, is there anything about Mac OS (since exFat and Mac are usually no good combination to begin with), that would cause one drive to be not mounted right if their basic chip set was the same but they only differed in formatting and they are on the same USB bus?
  2. Not really sure if that one belongs here but concerning those ROG build-offs it would acutally be really interesting if the winner of the contest could team up with Dennis to build the PC. Because there is often that gap between the contestant being either too shy or not experienced enough and Linus who then either just gives the correct answer or does it himself. But it would be even funnier to see someone team up with Dennis for a project like that
  3. Did you check the Registry if the Winlogon is still set to Explorer.exe and did you try to install like a USB Virus scanner, yet. I remember when I once had a nasty trojan that would kill the Task Manager instantly and prevent me from getting the explorer.exe, I had this antivirus software whos name I just forgot. Was it superantispyware or so. If I remember correctly it always downloaded with a different name so the trojan wouldn't notice it directly by name. When I ran it and cleaned everything I could open my taskmanager again but the winlogon was still not set to explorer.exe. I'm really no expert on that but I could imagine that for example some malware like that tried to hijack the system but the virus scan detected it and blocked some of it's applications leaving things behind like the task manager blocking (which was common for the UCash trojan) and the registry entry. Also might be something completely different, this was just the first thing that came into my mind as I had a similar case many years ago. Edit: Sorry, RageTester was faster ^^
  4. I'm a bit confused about those files they were playing in 4K there. At first Linus talked about 500 Mbit/s for all 16 files, so around 30 Mbit/s per file or 3.75 Mb/s. And then Jake said each video in 4K had about 500 Mbit/s or let's say around 60 Mb/s. So we are actually talking about video bitrate here, right? Because I've got a couple of 4K movies on my PC and the MediaInfo tool also tells me about the 'Overall Bit Rate', which is, depending on the compression and format usually around 50 to sometimes up to 80 Mb/s. So that would be within the typical range of a 4K movie file for me with their 60 Mb/s per video here. But when you google for 'data transfer rates', at least for the German Wikipedia page (there is no analogue English version for that) it tells you about 10 - 14 GBit/s for 4K, which is, confusing enough as it's called xbit/s as well, I think used to describe things like cables. Like, I just bought a 4K DP cable that said 21.5 Gbit/s on the cable. Dunno, it just got a bit confusing to me when they were talking about all sorts of speeds and then used bit/s for the total bitrate of the 4K clips, and then dividing stuff by 8 and by 16 for the number of clips, etc. Really had to pause the clip and think about it for a second. But still very impressive, I had to test a couple of premium videoplayers to even get 4K files at these high rates to play on my system with those files playing of a slow 8 TB HDD with SMR (with a lot of buffering and caching)....
  5. Okay, little update on the topic. I was able to select a fast VPN from my ExpressVPN list and selected Parsec only and it worked. The quality is astonishing, it's super snappy with practically no visible latency, the colors are all great and correct, no pixels or even bigger chunks, sound is great. I even watched a 4K video that of course had to be converted to 1080p in that process and it was really fluid at probably close to 60 FPS (at least to my eyes) with no visible chunks like you see it in streams. So thank you for all your suggestions. I will probably stick to a combination of AnyDesk for quick tasks and Parsec (as it takes a few seconds to start the VPN) for longer tasks.
  6. Okay so I will try to setup the connection with Radmin tomorrow at work again. I might have just found something. I also got a subscription to ExpressVPN that I'm rarely using. Turns out, you can define what apps should use the VPN. I tried to set it up via AnyDesk on my WorkPC and it actually worked for steam. Without the VPN I could not log into Steam but with the App specific VPN activated it worked! While my IP adess for the browser stayed the same and I still have access to our intranet. If that works out for Parsec as well I just take a fast VPN and set it to Parsec only and use that to connect to my PC. I think in general those Express VPNs are quite 'fast', guess enough to work with.
  7. I did as instructed on their website but no chance. I guess I need to enable a VPN on my work pc for that. Steam for example won't launch as well unless I use a VPN, that is something I wanted to avoid because then I'd always have to login to the VPN once I need something from my HomePC. I don't really understand however, why some applications work while others won't
  8. That sounds interesting, what do I need to download, I can see three installations, a portable version, a remote version and a version for this pc. I guess it needs to run on both machines, so can I just get the portable on both PCs?
  9. I know, I just also saw that you can have a free version of it. I tried it, together with Wayke but none of them seems to work for me. Both cannot establish a connection. I fear that the firewall at work might be blocking it? So some options work and some won't I don't get why TeamViewer and AnyDesk work while others can't reach their Server.
  10. Hi Guys, So I've got two monitors at my work and usually I'm only using one of them. That's why I started to use TeamViewer on my HomePC to do things at work and vice versa. This is because I'm often doing things like rendering private stuff at home or doing calculations. Sometimes I even do a calculation on my home pc and then take the result to my work PC as my work PC isn't as fast. On the other hand sometimes I need to wait for a measurment to be finished and I can also do the results at home. As my way to work is quite far I try to use as much time as possible to do both things, so private things at work when I need to wait for something to finish or work stuff at home when I've got some spare time, like when the food is in the oven xD. And as my boss is okay with me doing that (part of that was actually his idea so I can monitor critical measurements on for example sundays at home) there's actually no problem for me if it wasn't about a certain problem. Although my home PC has about 40 mbit/s upload speed and my WorkPC around 100 mbit/s download speed I'm getting quite bad qualities. Sometimes it's blocky, colors are weird, and the response is not good. Not really useful when you need to let's say mask a picture or so. I also switched to AnyDesk as it would sometimes take ages for TeamViewer to find a connection on my work PC, but that's even worse. Does anyone have a good alternative service? My home PC is 4K but I don't really need that as my work PC is only 1080p, but something close to 60 Hz would be great or at least a very quick response. I also don't mind payed subscriptions here. I would use Parsec as advertised by Linus, but it seems that you need a team of 5 and 150$ is just too much monthly for me. Is there anything comparable to that? Thank you all in advance for any help. I was trying to find something but I wasn't sure what to keep an eye on.
  11. Hi, I hope this is the correct forum. After my first two threads my 2070 Super arrived today. I popped it in and (thanks again to everyone who helped me here) it worked! I installed the latest drivers, everything is fine. I did some Benchmarking, the values are perfect and fluid 60 Hz (Monitor maximum). I also changed the display to 10 bpc. At first I could not find the option in the NVidia control panel, then I switched from RGB to YCbcr422 and I got the option now and switched to 10 bpc. I hope 4.2.2 was the correct one. HDR works as well although I have turned it off again as I need to adjust the colors for HDR in the monitor menu first and I don't have time for that now. Now the problem is, I tried to play a movie that is in 4K and has 10 bits and even HDR-10 available. When I run 4K 60 Hz videos on YouTube they look really smooth and they are totally 60 fps, but for VLC mediaplayer you can see a lot of stuttering. It's not like it's not getting the pixels but it's like the picture becomes slower and then faster again, while you don't see any quality drops or something. Now I know, you can increase the frame buffer in VLC, already did that back on my 780 Ti since it was stuttering back then. But afterwards 4K would run fine. I also tried to copy another 4K movie from my HDD to my SSD to make things faster but still, it keeps lagging and we are not talking about 60 Hz movies here. My question is, did I set up anything incorrectly? Because everything else is running fine. Also I cannot switch to another player unless you can recommend me one. I tried every one that claims to be free and plays 4K in HDR but none of them worked. They were either stuttering or they would ask for money for every file format. VLC was the only one that worked for me. One thing that could be is that I connected the monitor via HDMI and not via Displayport, but I think the 2070 Super with HDMI 2.0b should be able to play that, as it also produces 60 fps in games at 4K. So okay, Displayport could be an option here in the end, my cable is broken unfortunately so I will have to order a new one. Still, this should in theory effect any 4K player then but for me is seems like it's only VLC ( I don't bother about installing every other option I had tried before again to test that now). So I hope this fits into here, any suggestions are welcome, Thank you all in advance and stay safe, Greetings EDIT: Problem solved, for some reason hardware accelerated decoding was re-activated. Now it runs smoothly
  12. Hi, Now having finally descided on what to do with my system I ordered a 2070 Super yesterday. When it arrives I want to be ready to quickly plug it in. So I've got a question about the installation. Generally for NVidia they say that you can just swap the GPU and install the drivers but my jump is quite big from a 780 Ti to a 2070 Super. Can I still just unplug the 780 Ti, install the 2070 super, start off with the 780 Ti latest driver and do a driver update on GeForce experience? And after that do I need to uninstall the 780 Ti driver or even DDU it? Many Greetings
  13. HI, Thank you for your answer. I already checked that site but they won't guarantee that things are compatible. To be just on the safe side I wanted to ask here as well. About that bottlenecking, I have heard about this of course although I think the core i7 is still somewhat okay compared to i5 combinations that some people choose. One question about that however, can this CPU or any other part bottlenecking actually get me lower GPU speed than the original 780 Ti? Because I read about people who upgraded and got less than expected. But I don't know what their expectations were to be honest. So having that huge jump from 780 Ti to 2070 Super, would bottlenecking CPU lead to the 2070 becoming so slow that FPS drop below that 780 Ti? Because my panel is 60 fps maximum anyways and I'm getting that at 1080p for the 780 Ti already. So unless I'm not going full 4K on it I don't think the 2070 would make any difference compared to the 780 Ti for my situation. But if for some incompatibilities I might end up with less performance than right now it would be wasted money. EDIT: I just saw something that I completely missed, I think. The ASUS GeForce GTX 780 Ti in my system has 2 x 8 pin connectors while almost every 2070 Super has 8 + 6 Pin. So I checked for the PSU this is the diagram they give: It says PCIe (6+2) pin. I really have no idea about PCIe and stuff and I can't really trace back where all the cables are going in my system. Is there a way to connect a 6 + 8 pin GPU to this? I read about 8 pin to 6 pin connectors, can I just put that on one of the cables that is already present in my 780 Ti configuration? So unplug both connectors, install the new GPU and then add the adatper to one of the 8-pins and replug them?
  14. Hi Guys, After my first post yesterday I'd like to ask another question about my upcoming upgrade. I hope this is the correct section of the forum. As prices are high I want to be sure about every step. So my PC is already quite old. I had it built in a PC store from parts I chose back then in 2014. And for 2014s standarts and the price of around 1600$ back then I got a pretty good PC. Also kudos to the guys who built it back then, besides some thermal paste and an increase of 8 GB of RAM last year there hasn't been any issue with the PC yet. I never swapped anything or ran into any bottlenecks or so. And it runs really fine even with todays AAA games, some even in higher resolutions and a few games run even at 4K resolution at decent FPS. Now, due to the fact that I've been doing other stuff as well and I switched to a bigger UHD display, I also wanted to upgrade the GPU a bit. Some will say 'but the next generation of GPUs is right ahead' but that will be pricy and I don't know if my now 6 year old mainboard will even handle them. I think if I do a final upgrade of the GPU now it will be suitable for the near future before I start all over again with a totally new build. I am not a high FPS gamer, I don't play online and I am okay with lowering graphics if the game is okay. Additonally to games I do some stuff in 3Ds Max, especially rendering stuff in V-Ray with GPU, so raytracing. Also particle systems, effects, some After Effects, etc. Basically, the more RAM and the better the GPU the better it will be for my stuff. Therefore it's a bit of a mix between usable for rendering but also good for gaming. A good friend uses a 1080 Ti and we've been doing some rendering in V-Ray on his PC as well and it was a lot faster, probably at the level I require it for my projects. So the choice was then 1070 Ti, 1080 Ti or perhaps even 2070 Super (perhaps better for Raytracing applications) and if neither works or too expensive even one of the lower super cards like 1660. My question is, can I switch my current 780 Ti to even a 2070 super, so will this work with my CPU, with my mainboard and with my power supply and case? And my second question is a very lazy one, but I am no PC builder, I won't start removing parts and adding new, I am happy with the system as it is, even with the cables. I will add some pictures below to show my problem. You have to guide the cables through the back and then fit them tightly in the casing and even for the guys who built it for me back then it was a pain to get that. I'd be super happy if I could use the same 6-pin and 8-pin connector, simply unplug the 780 Ti and replace it by a 1080 Ti or 2070 Super. And therefore my second question would be, is that possible ( I read they both use the same connectors, so it should be possible). ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- About my system: CPU S-1150 Intel Core i7-4790 Box 'Haswell (Ref.)' 3.6 GHz, 8 MB V PCIe NVIDIA GTX780 Ti 3GB ASUS DirectCU II OC MB S-1150 Z97 MSI Gaming 5 SSD 2-5 SA3 120 GB SAMSUNG 840 EVO Power Supply: 750W Be Quiet! Power Zone CM Case: Miditower Fractal Define R4 USB3 Black Pearl CPU-cooler: Scythe Katana 4 RAM: 2 x G.SKILL NT Series 8 GB DDR3-1600 CL11 Dimm ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So I think judging from the price back then it was quite a good system and as it is still running today investing 500$ or less for a new GPU after 6 years is okay to me. When I check various sites they all tell my that for example my Z97 MSI Gaming 5 is compatible with the RTX 2070 Super and also with the i7-4790. I think with my power supply there shouldn't be much change from 780 Ti (250 W, min 600 W supply) to 2070 Super (215 W ?, min. 650 W supply). So do you think I could install a 2070 Super in my system or are there issues and if not would a 1080 Ti work then instead? Also will it fit into my case and if it does are the connectors similar enough and at similar places that I could use the old 6-pin and 8-pin? I will leave the seller of the 2070 Super open to you in case one company has a better sized card, I think MSI even did something like 2 x 8-pin. Thank you for any suggestion, I really need some help with my decision here. Stay safe and healthy, Many greetings A1.jfif A2.jfif
  15. Thank you both for your fast answer. I was thinking about either gettting a 1080 Ti or a RTX 2070 Super. But after Glenwing's post I'm a bit sceptical about that sentence Would a 10xx or 20xx series card at least get me to 10 bit? I don't really need that HDR-10 format. Or let's put it straight here. I'm not buying a new card for that improvement in some limited 10 bit, I'm getting one of the two for other reasons. But while I got the choice to pick one, would I be able to get at least 10 bit using them?