NobodyOfNote

Figured out the issue. Turns out the motherboard was dead. Replaced it with a new motherboard and the system works perfectly. I'm not sure what happened to it, I think it may have coincidentally failed during the trip.

I have reseated every connector in the computer, I reseat the CPU, GPU, and all 4 RAM sticks. I’ve tried booting with only the required components, and I’ve cleared the CMOS. Still no luck.

My PC has been working just fine for years, but after moving it between cities yesterday, my PC won’t post. All fans, RGB, and the AIO still work fine, the RAM lights up, and the GPU fans are spinning. However, no diagnostic LEDs illuminate. I’ve followed the steps in the no-POST guide (are all cables still plugged in, etc) with no luck. I suspected it was the power supply, so I removed the power supply from the system and used a multimeter to measure the voltage output, and all pins on both the 24-pin and EPS connectors are providing the correct voltages. I don’t currently suspect the CPU because no diagnostic lights come on. I’m at a loss, is there anything else I should try, or is the motherboard just bad? Specs: ASUS ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING Ryzen 5 3600 G.Skill Trident Z RGB, 4x8GB Zotac 2060 Twin Fan Corsair CX550 PSU P.S. The PC spent a fair amount of time in negative degree weather, but I did check the PC for condensation before powering on.

I have an Unraid server that is the center of my life. It contains absolutely all of my data, and non of my data is stored in the cloud. However, I have no backups and it would be devastating to lose this server. I have a bunch of shares, docker containers, and VMs that I want backed up offsite. I have an identical server and an offsite location that I can store it, and I want the offsite server to be pretty much an exact copy of the main server that is constantly kept in sync. What would be the best method of backing up absolutely everything to an offsite server through a secure tunnel?

I fixed the issue. All I had to do was install the default keys. For some reason secure boot has been turned off all this time. Oh well, it's fixed now.

I updated my BIOS, and when booting back into Windows I checked system info, and Secure Boot State is set to off. I went through the BIOS and it has the same settings as before. I forgot to check system info before updating, so I'm pretty sure it has always been off. How do I enable it on this motherboard?

No, I'm currently on Version 3003 build date 12/09/2019. I can try updating to version 4901.

Hello all! I'm try to play Valorant for the first time, however I am unable to play due to a secure boot error. Every time I try to launch the game, I get met with error VAN9003: "Initial attestation failure: Secure boot requirement not met." I did a clean reinstall of both the Riot client and Valorant and still got the issue. I have a ASUS ROG Strix B450M Gaming board running Windows 11. I have AMD fTPM enabled, and I'm pretty sure secure is enabled. In the BIOS under Boot > Secure Boot, secure boot state is setup, and under Boot > CSM, CSM is disabled. Does this mean that secure boot is actually enabled? If not, how do I actually get secure boot fully enabled, and if it is, what else can I try to get Vanguard working? Thanks!

I built an IRL streaming setup for a friend but it isn't working very well. The stream seemed to be fine for a few minutes, but every few minutes the stream turns into a gray block mess for a minute straight (see attached video). The test stream was at Estabrook Park in Milwaukee, WI USA, and the setup is using a T-Mobile connection which should be very good, as there is only a cell tower a couple hundred feet away and the coverage map says the location is well covered. The setup is a iPhone connected through HDMI to a LinkPi ENC1-V2 Encoder, which is then connected to to a NRadio AC1200 router, which is then connected through a SRT video stream to a computer at home running OBS, and then streaming to Twitch. I am new to wireless streaming, so help would be greatly appreciated. VIDEO: https://clips.twitch.tv/SavoryPlumpOcelotWTRuck-LnbY9OoKbWH5UVLZ

I will test with a new cable and new monitor and will update here.

A friend of mine called me saying that his computer has green dots all over the screen, both in Windows and the BIOS. Is this a case of needing to update drivers, or is there a case of broken hardware? He has his files backed up so reinstalling Windows is also an option. He has a GTX 1650 with a Ryzen 3 3200G.

Hello! I acquired an old robot vacuum that has never been used, but it no longer works due to the battery dying after sitting for a year. It is a 14.8v 2600mAh 18650 battery pack that is measuring just above 3v on the leads. Is the battery definitely in need of replacement, or is there a charger I can get that will get it operating again? If it is completely dead, where can I find a replacement? The manufacturer of the vacuum was not helpful, and the batteries on Amazon have different leads for the battery. Does anyone know where I can buy this exact battery, or do the 2 yellow wires not matter? Thanks!

If you want to upgrade to Windows 11, not every PC has had Windows 11 rolled out to it yet, however you can get around it by updating via the Windows 11 Installation Assistant. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows11?ranMID=24542&ranEAID=0JlRymcP1YU&ranSiteID=0JlRymcP1YU-7hdvinATpQIEVGE4t4o1OQ&epi=0JlRymcP1YU-7hdvinATpQIEVGE4t4o1OQ&irgwc=1&OCID=AID2200057_aff_7593_1243925&tduid=(ir__ghqxc0669okf6kotsq1xe02xl22xo0avq6wdzij900)(7593)(1243925)(0JlRymcP1YU-7hdvinATpQIEVGE4t4o1OQ)()&irclickid=_ghqxc0669okf6kotsq1xe02xl22xo0avq6wdzij900

Those two links you sent are the same thing. But that is the card I have personally and I get 1gbps perfectly and reliably.

You will need to make sure you have a PCIe x1 slot available and not covered by your graphics card. By looking at the motherboard in you PCPP list, there is one available, but you have to put the graphics card below the x1 slot. Just make sure you have a big enough case, which you do. You should be fine.

I broke my phone a little bit ago, and I ended up buying a Google Pixel 4a, since it is only $350, and its a good option, I really like it. It doesn't have 5G though, without paying an additional $150.

You will need to buy some sort of wireless card. I would recommend buying a PCIe wifi card, but you can get a USB one if you need something cheaper.

Whenever I move a window out of or into maximized mode in Windows 10, the screen goes black for a second. This only happens when watching videos. Rebooting, reinstalling the graphics card, and reinstalling the drivers did not fix the problem. RTX 2060, Ryzen 5 3600 @ 4.6GHz (this was happening even when the overclock was reset) Link to a video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QX92UWciXN97he_egxEvPL1PQYg40kqT/view?usp=sharing

Did you overclock?

Whenever I move a window out of or into maximized mode in Windows 10, the screen goes black for a second. Rebooting, reinstalling the graphics card, and reinstalling the drivers did not fix the problem. RTX 2060, Ryzen 5 3600 @ 4.6GHz (this was happening even when the overclock was reset) Link to a video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QX92UWciXN97he_egxEvPL1PQYg40kqT/view?usp=sharing

Yes, my radiator fans are plugged into the CPU fan header. This is why this is so bizzare.

Now I'm confused. I reset my BIOS but am still getting the error. No cables were moved around on the motherboard, and everything is plugged in correctly. CPU was at 1.385 volts before BIOS reset.

Edit: The CPU is at 4.6GHz, not 4.7

I wasn't getting the error before the overclock. I restored the BIOS to default and then overclocked my CPU to a stable 4.7GHz and overclocked my RAM. Then I started to get the error. Everything is plugged into the motherboard properly. I'll restart my PC to get a pic for you.

When ever I boot my PC, it gives me a CPU fan error warning. I use an AIO pump, and it says its working fine when I open the BIOS. This started happening after I overclocked. I have a Ryzen 5 3600 overclocked to 4.7GHz on a B450 motherboard. Please help, its annoying to have to go into the BIOS every time I boot my PC. I changed nothing in the BIOS except the overclock and RAM profile.