Bombama

That is cool but it's not a concern. I'm only thinking about the connector itself, how it's called and how to choose proper connector for it. Because there are many different connectors for different laptops. They are not standardized.

Hi. I found out that there's unused JHDD connector in Dell 9560. I tried to find specific connector but all I got is something visually similar. So is it really SATA interface? Will it work if I find right connector? I'm thinking about putting another SSD inside, the small SATA SSD without 2.5" enclosure, just PCB, if it'll fit with according printed mounting bracket. Right now the only concern is whether it is even SATA interface or maybe something else.

Why did you cool down CPU through the heat pipes instead of making a protrusion on the enclosure aluminium and cooling it directly with the enclosure? So much of wasted space and a bit of wasted cooling performance. About 3D scanning. You don't need to scan it. The shape is super simple. It's easier to measure and rebuild the model, than clearing up the scan. About soldering to aluminium. You don't solder to aluminium. It's not connecting properly, it just barely sticks to it.

2 performance.

Hi. I'm looking for the screen protector for the phone (iphone 11 pro max) and they all seem small - they don't cover the edges of the screen. On images they're often photoshopped to cover entire screen but people in feedbacks show otherwise. I can't find the glass that will cover entire screen. When you google any reviews, you only find either list of random glasses with no real review or blatant advertisement. Maybe there is some decent screen protector that people really used and can recommend? Thanks. Please, refrain from arguing whether I need one or not. Thanks.

Is there a way to connect SATA SSD? Wouldn't it work better through USB than SD card? I have SATA to USB connector (both USB A and USB C options). It can give over 300 MB/s bandwidth but I don't know if Rpi can have advantage from that. I don't want a laptop. The idea of Rpi fits perfectly in usage - I can connect it to her TV and she can use it from chair. Recently saw her sitting at the desk watching series on laptop and it looks inconvenient. I think she wouldn't like to mess with HDMI to connect it to the TV. But I guess I have to assemble Rpi and experiment on my own to figure out how it'll work in my case. Because all I can find is demos like "you can launch web browser and watch movies". But no real experience from people who tried to use it as real desktop.

It's falling apart. I would put SSD, it's not a problem, but I just can't look at a laptop when keys are coming out of keyboard. It's time for it to go. But when I'm picking parts for ITX build, I can't stop at cheapest things, and ending up with Ryzen 3 or 5. I'd try Rpi, but I'll have to wait for delivery so I'd prefer to know for sure what performance to expect from it. Whether it's usable PC or just a toy like "mom, look, it loads Crysis!".

it shouldn't be a problem since Pi 4 has WiFi built-in. Although I have spare USB WiFi. Does IoT Windows 10 work as desktop or it's unusable?

That's not a problem. If I'll put shortcuts on taskbar in the same place, it'll be enough. But I guess, I'd need to find and tweak programs for convenience, like image viewer and others. But things like browser, office text editor, telegram, skype, video player - remain the same, especially if I set "explorer" to look like on Windows. I found out that people install full Win10 (non IoT version) but it's not usable for real tasks. My concern with entire device is RAM and CPU. What if it'll be even slower than 10 years old laptop? I'm not expecting it to run Crysis, but I need it to switch between programs snappy and be responsive. So entire build would not feel like a gimmick.

Hi. I'm thinking about fixing grandma's old laptop that she uses for communication (websites, video calls), writing texts in Office programs, watching series and collecting and keeping family photos. Nothing demanding. Laptop is very old and weak, that's why I'm thinking maybe Raspberry will do the job. I never used Raspberry and I don't know if it's really usable as basic PC or it's just a demo with no relation to reality. The point is to make it quiet, low power consuming and use with TV instead of regular monitor to let grandma see things better on big screen, as she barely reads regular 15" screen. I think if it's powerful enough, I don't mind building little setup with 2.5" SSD and 120 mm quiet fan. Would be interesting.

thanks for suggestion. I didn't try it. Maybe I used extension in first months of use, when I didn't have issues with G602. But I didn't notice the correlation because I focused on power and software issues. But today I just bought new mouse, because it couldn't do the job with G602 - it was painful experience but I really wanted to use that mouse because of very convenient shapes and amount of buttons that I'm using constantly for everything. Now using Razer Basilisk Essential with 3 buttons and trying to get used to this, using Shift feature (it was in Logitech too but I didn't need it then). This is awesome - my cursor is moving MUCH more accurately, faster, without skipping, and I'm not misclicking buttons in work software, when single misclick can cause couple minutes waiting. And Razer's software is noticeably better than LGS or G Hub - it switches profiles for programs seamlessly and consistently, unlike Logitech which often didn't switch if you do it too fast. Also I've noticed that I don't have any issues when the system is under the load - Logitech was skipping movement and rebooting. I'll do some experimenting with G602 and extension and note results here later. P.S. IT"S SO FAST AND ACCURATE! Enjoying this whole day. Can't wait to try in game.

I'm using Logitech G602 and Dell 9560 laptop. I've noticed that when I'm using any USB storage, my mouse works horribly and inconsistently - sudden connection drops, mouse reboots. Regardless of battery level. Receiver is on the right side, within 20 cm from the mouse. Doesn't matter, whether I'm using USB-A or USB-C connector. I've found out that people mentioned that USB 3+ has some interference with 2.4 GHz mice. Is there a way to fix this? I've tried to update drivers but nothing changed.

Thanks for suggestion, it would be ok for desktop. But what about Android? I liked the initial idea mostly because it works without any additional gimmicks. I'm just copying files to the folder and it's done. But now just because Wind10 Home has encryption locked out, I'd have to look for 3rd-party solutions for both - Windows and Android. BTW, is there ANY program for Windows that uses fingerprint sensor on laptop? I just noticed that it's convenient to use on phone but I never used it on laptop for other than unlocking the lock-screen.

I got a USB-C+A drive to backup my phone "on-the-go" and I'm thinking about encrypting some folders there with AES 256, which is conveniently built-in in my daily used Solid Explorer. I want to use this because it's supposed to be natively supported by Windows so I could open the folder on any computer, no bloatware needed. But seems like it's disabled in Windows 10 Home edition. Also I'm not sure if it works with FAT32. Is there a way to unlock/install support of AES 256 folder encryption (not Bitlocker volume encryption)? I've found solution involving 3rd-party tools for same purpose that don't work with AES 256 encrypted folders.

That's not enough.

I'm using Lightroom Classic on laptop with Intel 7700HQ and GTX1050. HW acceleration is on, catalog settings (preview sizes) are optimized for performance. In Lightroom my CPU spikes up to 100% in normal workflow processing regular 16 MP RAWs, nothing extra. CPU load jumps between 30% and over 90%. It doesn't work well. I tried to make new catalog in case if old one had too much of photos but it didn't affect performance. NVME SSD doesn't spike, no issues with access to files. No other program has issues. Seems like it's LR's issue. I understand that it have to load CPU. But not as much to make background running video to stutter. I've had exactly the same performance with Lightroom on my old laptop with Intel U processor, DDR3 memory and SATA SSD. It's like hardware doesn't affect performance. Sometimes it works better, sometimes worse. I don't know what's happening, because I'm turning sync off and not running any face recognition in background. Nothing should hurt performance. Just in case, I don't have any issues with thermals and I'm using the same hardware with more demanding programs without problems.

Do they still install chinese botnet along with Epic Games Store?

they all have 2. No headsets on this planet offer more earcups.

Yes, temps are better after I put better thermal paste. But I'm still not a fan of this fan. Working in case with relatively quiet fans this stock cooler makes this build noticeably loud. At least it's better than it was yesterday when it reached 80 under the load and was over 55 idle. I've seen "fresh" thermal compound drying out in couple of months, maybe that's what happened with this new CPU in box. CSGO made it 72 degree. Apparently GPU is adding to that. Case fans were working ok with previous build on 77W Intel CPU inside. About to order Fuma 2.

Just changed thermal paste to Noctua NH-T1. Idle - 42 Slightly used - 51 (launching programs) OCCT - 70. Case is microATX case with 3x120 on front, 2x120 on top and 1x120 on back. PSU is in bottom shroud. I use Silent Wings 120 fans: 2 on front and 2 on top. Case is not a problem, it was working fine with previous build and Performa with Noctua fan.

Looks okayish for $20 but in my Ukraine it costs $35 (we have shitty prices for PC hardware). And for a bit more I see couple better options. Also it has aluminium base and direct tubes, so I won't be able to use liquid metal later. Currently thinking about Scythe Fuma 2. If not choosing from "cheapest from the decent", then "best from <150 mm". Even thought about AIO watercooling but the only optimal choice is EKWB 360 mm for 150 euro. For additional couple degrees it's not worth it.

Very loud and hot. I use 2 intake Silent Wings 120 mm fans on front face and 2 exhaust 120 mm fans on top, they're quiet. And I was using Noctua fan on Performa. Now I assembled r5 3600 kit and have to use stock cooler which is loudest thing in the room. Also it doesn't cool decently but it might been thermal compound they provided. I'll need to check it with Noctua NH-T1 which I use normally. I was considering this one. But for its price it's not give much of advantage over 2 times cheaper coolers. I would prefer something relatively cheap, because if I would buy something really good, I'd go for Noctua D15 and change the case to bigger one. I didn't think about AM4 mounting when I assembled this kit and I wanted to use old good Performa. Sounds good, doesn't work. Thanks for recommendation, I will check Mugen 5. But it cost close to Noctua D14 (doesn't fit in the case but I really like Noctua's coolers).

Turned out that my Performa doesn't have AM4 mounting bracket and special AM4 mounting kit for it is out of stock everywhere. I can't find any decent cooler that would fit in my case - 155 mm and lower. I was looking at be quiet! Pure Rock but on tests it performs worse than Performa. The same with couple others. Is there a good cooler that would fit into 155 mm and work well on r5 3600?