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mmurley

Member
  • Posts

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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Contact Methods

  • Reddit
    r/ODA564

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    Many things. Tech.
  • Biography
    Retired SF officer. Former fishing lodge manager. Former defense industrial complex merchant of death. Nice guy.
  • Occupation
    Getting kids off my lawn.

System

  • CPU
    i7-4790 2 3.60GHZ
  • Motherboard
    Dell Optiplex 9020 0N4YC8
  • RAM
    8GB
  • GPU
    XFX ATI Radeon HD 5850 1GB GDDR5
  • Case
    Corsair Carbide Series 100R Mid Tower Case
  • Storage
    1x Samsung 500GB 850 EVO SSD: 1x Seagate 2TB HHD; 3x Hitachi 4TB HHD
  • PSU
    Corsair CX Series 550 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Modular PSU
  • Display(s)
    Samsung SMBX2231; Sceptre 27" Curved 75Hz LED C278W-1920R
  • Cooling
    OEM Dell CPU cooler
  • Keyboard
    Dell LP KM717 Premier Wireless Keyboard
  • Mouse
    Dell LP KM717 Premier Wireless Mouse
  • Sound
    AMD HD Audio Device HDMI output to Cyber Acoustics CA-2014 multimedia desktop computer speakers
  • Operating System
    Win7 Ultimate
  • Laptop
    Huawei Matebook Pro X Signature Edition (Win10 Pro); i5-8250U; 8GB RAM

mmurley's Achievements

  1. His laptop only has a model number on the bottom - there's no sticker. We used HP support's "ID your computer" web app and read everything in the support section. No specificity. And the enigmatic bar code and part number on the OEM Crucicial stick leads nowhere.
  2. I don't think I was clear. My son barely understands the concept of RAM, let alone pin configuration, DIMM or SODIMM, buffered or unbuffered, non-ECC or ECC, etc. He bought 2x8 GB Corsair DDR4 PC4 SODIMM. He did it without asking me. Obviously he failed to read far enough into the the Amazon description to see the RAM speed is 2666 MHz and the RAM he bought was 2400 MHz. HP's website is worse than useless as far as specific RAM requirements for that model. Crucial showed both speeds (2666 and 3200) as compatible (but doesn't clearly indicate that that's "MHz" does it). And the Crucial stick in the laptop is basically unmarked (it has a part number / SKU and bar codes but that's a Google chase he's not up to). So he's very reticent to buy more RAM and take the laptop apart (again) only to find out its the wrong RAM. I'm going to buy him a Crucial 2x8 Gb 2666MHz kit and put the onus on me rather than cause him more angst.
  3. My son bought a HP 15-dy1751ms and wanted to upgrade the RAM to 16 Gb. He bought the wrong DDR4 RAM (computer failed POST). Crucial shows both module SKU CT8G4SFRA32A (DDR4 PC4-25600 • CL=22 • Unbuffered • NON-ECC • DDR4-3200 • 1.2V • 1024Meg x 64) and module SKU CT8G4SFRA266 (DDR4 PC4-21300 • CL=19 • Unbuffered • NON-ECC • DDR4-2666 • 1.2V • 1024Meg x 64) as compatible. HP's website is less than helpful. Anyone have a clue?
  4. I have a project computer - a Dell Optiplex that I case-swapped into a Corsair case, etc. I wanted a HDMI graphics card - but I'm not a "gamer" really (my last game was Hearts of Iron III which isn't really a graphics hog! ). So I put a ATI Radeon HD 5850 1G in it - my other choices in the parts box are a Nvidia GeForce GT 1030 OC 2G or a Nvidia GeForce GT 730 2GB (but it's DP and DVI - no HDMI). Reading around the internet I think the 5850 is the better card (even if it's old tech)?
  5. Does anyone know of a USB Bluetooth adapter known to work with the Dell multi-device "Premium" keyboard KM717? So, I have three computers (Hauwei Matebook Pro X laptop; Dell Inspiron i3647 and my project build). I wanted one multi-device keyboard & mouse to control them. The Dell KM7171 was highly reviewed (didn't need mechanical). The KM717 comes with a USB dongle (RF) and can add 2 more BT devices. My Huawei paired with it immediately. My Dell i3647's Bluetooth (Dell BT1705) sees it but won't pair with it - it asks for a pairing code and I can't input anything so how does that work? And the generic BT dongle on my project build is oblivious.
  6. Here's a blog showing step-by-step how one guy did it. Here's the YouTube video about the case you illustrate. This guy did it but he had it professionally done.
  7. 1. You don't need varnish. 2. Don't use latex paint. 3. You want to use spray paint (if you are DIYing this). Krylon makes a spray paint type called "Fusion" designed to adhere to plastic better than plain spray paint. For DIY plastic painting, it is the best (usually). Spray paint requires using light, moving strokes so you don't get puddles of paint that create rivulets that ruin the smooth finish. You need to practice, practice, practice. And if you have a part of the case that no-one will see that you can test the paint on, that's best. Another option is to use automotive paint - Duracoat is basically automotive paint and you can get it in multiple colors (again, some paint doesn't work with some plastic - as in it dissolves it and I have no idea what plastic Apple used - neither does Google). You'd have to use an airbrush (again, practices plus you'd have to buy one and have an area to use it in) and it has to be heat cured (people make curing ovens with plywood, aluminum foil and heat lamps). Obviously you'd have to completely disassemble the case, buttons have to come out, etc. Then clean it thoroughly. And degrease it - which is where testing the plastic comes in - alcohol or mineral spirits but you don't want to melt the plastic if it reacts with one or the other. At this point you want nitrile gloves to avoid oil from your fingers. Mask any parts you need to with painter's tape trimmed with an exacto knife. Then use a plastic primer. Then the paint. Light strokes, many coats is better than heavy strokes, thick coats. Watch YouTube videos like this one. Practice on scrap. Don't be in a rush.
  8. Looking for some unicorns. Looking for small (ideally USB A slot width) USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 symbol decals for a custom case front IO panel.Despite advanced Google search skills, I've only found 1" and 2" USB 2.0 symbols on stickertalk.com (which are way too big and don't include USB 3.0). ModDIY has nada. They need to be white, so I don't think clear labels for my inkjet would work,
  9. So I cleared the BIOS log. Then checked, cleaned and reseated the CPU. New thermal paste of course. Cleaned the RAM slots as best I could. Cleaned the pins on the modules. Reseated them all. Mades sure they were seated. Rebooted. Got the F1 to continue, F2 to enter setup, F5 for onboard diagnostics message. Choose F5. Memory passed all tests. On exit and reboot I got the same symptom as before. Repeated single beep. I think Egad is right. 8GB is enough for right now (I'm not a gamer in the Fornite, etc. sense).
  10. I read that in the manual (I am intimate with the manual). It says (to me) that: 1. All channels (white or black) must be populated with the same size modules. In other words you can put 2GB sticks in white and 4GB in black but the 2GB sticks have to be the same configuration (single or dual rank but not both) and the 4 GB sticks have to be the same configuration (single or dual rank but not both). Correct? 2. You can't put different size sticks in the same channel (RAM 101). I'm not. 3. You can use single or dual rank modules but the sticks in each channel have to be the same (see above). If you use quad rank sticks they have to go in the white slots. Correct? 4. RAM speed defaults to the lowest speed modules - so you can have different speed modules in different channels, as long as all the modules in a channel are the same configuration. Correct? So I am not violating any Dell law. I have 2 4GB single rank modules (Kingston) and 2 4GB dual rank modules (Hynix). All of them are PC3-12800 DDR3 SDRAM (non-ECC) @ 1600MhZ. Ass long as I put one set in the white slots and one set in the black slots it should be fine. The computer works with either set in the white slots but not with either set installed in the black slots - except that it will bot ONCE after either set is installed in the black slots, then give me a non-Dell manual Memory configuration has changed Press F1 to continue or press F2 to enter setup warning and runs perfectly fine until you try to restart it (error messages are on pages 48-51 of the Dell 9020 Owners Manual). But once you restart (either from the OS or starting it after shutdown with the power switch) just cycles power while giving a non-Dell manual error beep (1 beep repeating). As the 9020 Owners Manual says - the startup (POST?) memory failure beep code is 1-3-2 (9020 Owners Manual page 48) . Not 1-1-1. Not getting any of the power LED amber or white state diagnostic codes either (I preserved the OEM power cable / switch / LED). I am not getting an amber LED state blinking 3,5 for memory modules are detected, but a memory configuration or compatibility error which I would expect to get if the different RAM module set were this issue.
  11. And today's adventure. So this AM I switched the modules I put the 'new ones' (Dell OEM) in DIMM slots 1&2 (white tab). The computer started with no issues. Those are specifically Hynix 4GB PC3-12800. Then I put the 'original' modules in DIMM slots 3&4 (black tabs). On startup , after the BIOS screens, I got a "Warning! The memory configuration has been changed, press F1 to continue or F2 to enter setup" message. I pressed F1 and the computer booted. Then I tried a restart (soft boot). Computer won't start - fans start and stop repeatedly and I get a beep ---beep---beep. Which is a single beep and not listed by Dell - Dell says the memory failure beep code is 1-3-2 . Took the 'original modules' out, cold booted and I get : "Error! Memory configured incorrectly. Please enter setup for memory information details. Alert! The amount of system memory has changed. System halted!" That error message is not listed by Dell. Neither is the "Memory configuration has been changed" error message. I restarted and entered the BIOS. In the Dell BIOS A25 for the 9020 there is only memory information (no way to configure it) - it shows this. Exit the BIOS and the computer boots into Windows. The 'new' or Hynix modules are installed. The 'original' modules are Kingston. The Hynix are double sided and the Kingston single sided. The computer will boot with either modules in slots 1&2 (white tabs). And will boot once (after F1) with both installed, but not after that. The RAM modules are all good. There's something wonky. Could be the BIOS or DIMM slots 3&4 - but it will boot with those slots populated (under conditions).
  12. I did when I first set the computer up (it's a project computer) - this is my second motherboard for this project (the first one apparently failed - I'm still tinkering with it). This mobo required a new coin battery. I took the RAM off the old mobo. Two modules were mismatched brand but same spec and two were OEM Dell. Once I got the mobo installed I couldn't get it to boot with the two mismatched brand name modules in slots 3&4. It would try to boot and then give me a memory configuration changed message and then BSOD before I could do anything. Or just crash into a BSOD. I guessed it was RAM from the behavior). So I pulled the slot 3&4 mismatched brand modules. Then I could get into the BIOS and it booted into Windows So I bought 2 used Dell OEM Hynix 4GB PC3-12800 modules. I installed them and I got the "memory configuration changed" message. F1 to continue, F2 to enter BIOS and change the memory configuration. I hit F2. There is no option to change the memory configuration. Exit and BSOD. Tomorrow I'll try F1 to continue (but a post in the Dell Community forums says a user that did that continued to have BSODs when he did a cold boot until he updated his BIOS - but I've updated to the latest BIOS - A25), I'll also try the "new" RAM in slots 1&2.
  13. I haven't tried that. The modules are all the same (the RAM in the 9020 and the other modules). I've been loathe to mess with the slot 1&2 RAM because the computer runs until I mess with the RAM and then I have to go through repeated attempts before it works (boots into Windows) and then it's 'stable'.
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