Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Mathew Lang

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


This user doesn't have any awards

About Mathew Lang

  • Title
  1. Downloading the LG TV app for my phone worked. Its not perfect but its definitely a 9 our of 10 solution for this issue. I can now choose each tv and control one at a time without interfering with the others in the room.
  2. I have three LG Flat Screens in the same room and all three use the LG Magic Remote Control. Whenever I try to use the remote it tries to control all three Flat Screens at the same time. Is there a way to make each of my three remotes control each individual Flat Screen? I tried a basic search but did not find anything. I hope that someone can point me in the right direction and give me a tip on which direction to search for more information.
  3. So here is what I have so far. On the left is the setting from RC and on the right of the equal sign is what I believe is the setting in the BIOS. I have left twoentries in bold because I can not figure them out. I think i did the rest of them correctly but please let me know if I did not. I have included a bunch of photos of the bios. tCL = tCL? tRCDWR = tRCDWR? tRCDRD = tCDRD? tRP = tRP? tRAS = tRAS? tRC = tRC? tRRDS = tRRD_S? tRRDL = tRRD_L? tFAW = tFAW? tWTRS = tWTR_S? tWTRL = tWTR_L? tWR = tWR? tRDRD SCL = tRDRDSC_L? tWRWR SCL = tWRWRSC_L? tRFC = tRFC (alt) = tCWL = tCWL? tRTP = tRTP tRDWR = tRDWR? tWRRD = tWRRD? tWRWR SC = tWRWRSC? tWRWR SD = tWRWRSD? tWRWR DD = tWRWRDD? tRDRD SC = tRDRDSC? tRDRD SD = tRDRDSD? tRDRD DD = tRDRDDD? tCKE = tCKE? DRAM Voltage = DRAM Voltage? SOC Voltage = CHIPSET SOC Voltage? VDDG CCD Voltage = VDDG CCD Voltage? VDDG IOD Voltage = VDDG IOD Voltage? cLDO VDDP Voltage = CHIPSET CLDO Voltage? Power Down mode = Power Down Enable? Gear Down mode = Gear Down Mode? Command rate = Command Rate? BGS = BankGroupSwap? BGS Alt = BankGroupSwapAlt? FCLK = FCLK Frequency? procODT = ProcODT? RTT_NOM = RttNom? RTT_WR = RttWr RTT_PARK = RttPark? CAD_BUS ClkDrv = ClkDrvStren? CAD_BUS AddrCmdDrv = AddrCmdSetup? CAD_BUS CsOdtDrv = CsOdtSetup? CAD_BUS CkeDrv = CkeSetup?
  4. This is my first time overclocking or fine tuning ram. So far I understand that hittimg the XMP button does not really do anything as far as performance goes. So it sounds like I need to go it and manually tune in the settings. I have learned how to indentify my RAM and then how to use Ryzen Calculator to get the settings I should use to achieve the desired OC. There are differences between RC (Ryzen Calculator) and the MSI Bios on the Unify board. I wanted to know if anyone could point me in the direction of the answers. I included a screenshot of RC but the onlyway I could think of to get an image of the bios was to take a photo of it and I will do that if needed. Thanks in advance .
  5. Hi there my friend. So this was interesting to look at with your benchmarks. I also just completed a 3900x build with 32gb and ram but am getting a stock Cenibench20 score between 7200 and 7400 depending on how I setup the heatsink. Honestly the only notable difference in our componet list is the GPU where I went with a 2070super. But Cinebench does not appear to pull any load from the GPU when I run the score. I wonder why you are 200 points lower? I will say that I do run a Nactua NH-D15 heatsink instead of the stock AMD. I also have casefans and am running a ton of different fan configurations to see what results I get but am finding that the heatsink is the most important factor above all. Spending $100 on a really good heatsink might bring your CPU up to where it should be. The reason for this is because you'll get more boost results from the better heatsink. Just for run I ran my heatsink with no fans at all and got 6599. I then ran it with with both included fans directed inwards towards the center of the heatsink and got a 7404 score. With just the heatsink in a closed Fractal Design Mehify S2 case and no case fans I have been able to get a stable manual clock of 4400 which got me a score of 7725 running Cinebench on a 30min loop to test stability of the clock. No amount of extra air cooling has allowed me to go higher for 30min runs. I got over 7800 once but could only get that on single runs of the benchmark. I plan on testing liquid metal to see if I can get better heat transfer to the heatsink and get that temp just a little lower. If I could run 7800 scores over 30min then I would be happy. Its fun to run the benchmarks and see how high you can get them but overall its not how to run the computer for every day use. I do like to use the benchmarks to tell me if I have my cooling setup in the most effecient manner and that how allowed me to run the highest score without messing with the cpu settings for my every day use. So in conclusion. Heatsink might be more important then case fans IMO.
  6. I agree with you that something needs to be done in that area. I was talking to JMMods about cutting me about four SSD covers with the name of the system spelled out as: FROZEN IN THE BLIZZARD Then have some snow flakes on some SSD coverse on the back side. All of them lit up. That way when I complete the cable management it will be a complete 360 degree presentation. The amount of cables is.... high. Between now and then I am tweaking the system. I have it overclocked at 4400/1.42v with no crashs after running for an hour. The Graphics card is bumped up 100/900 over spec with no crashes. I am going to start tunning the memory and then ill investigate what else I can tune on it. I have been moving fans around in different configurations to stamp out various hot spots in the system as they have made themselves present. It runs between 28-40c on idle and tops out at 78c at full load. This is all closed system, airflow only. I dont want to use measurements with the panels open. I want to see just how high i can get the specs at stable. My fear is that when the 3k series of RTX cards comes out that they wont release any white cards and ill have to use my arts/crafts skills on it.
  7. Frozen In The Blizzard Snow White Color Theme & Massive Air Flow "When I was young we didn't have it good like you kids today with you're giga this and peta that. We had kilas and if you were willing to walk in the snow you could fight that blizzard outside and invest a weeks pay in a single megabyte of ram! Bah! Air Flow you say? Stop being weak you little snott! I didn't need any Air Flow for my 386 but if you really want some Air Flow just give me a moment, Grand Pa had some beans for lunch earlier today, you're about to get some Air Flow soon you whipper snapper." - Grandpa Weather Forecast Data Case: Fractal Design Meshify S2 with Duel Tempered Glass Panels Power Supply: Be Quiet Straight Power 11 750W 80 Plus Gold Mother Board: MSI MEG X570 Unify CPU: AMD Ryzen 3900x RAM: Micron Crucial Ballistix Gaming(HA! Marketing!) Memory 32GB (4x8GB DDR3600, 2666 OCed up to 3600) Boot Drive: Corsair Force Series MP600 NVMe PCIe Gen4 x4 M.2 SSD 1TB GPU: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 Super Gaming OC 3x White 8G (Virtically mounted through a Lian Li 011D-1X PCEI 3.0 x16 kit) CPU Cooling: Noctua NH-D15 Chromx.black (Noctua NA-HC4 chromax.white added for looks) CPU Thermal: Noctua NT-H1 Thermal Paste Case Fans: 7 Noctua NF-A14 IndustrialPPC-3000 PWM (Noctua NA-SAVP1 chromax.white Anti-Vibration PADS replaced the brown included pads for looks), 2 Notctua NF-F12 IndustrialPPC-3000PWM (with the same white vibration pads) LED: 7 Phanteks 140mm Halos Lux Digital RGB Frames, 2 Phanteks 120mm Halos Lux Digital RGB Frames (These are connected through a single Phanteks Digital-RGB Controller to a JRGB port),3 Phanteks Neon M5 Digital-RGB LED Strips (connected through a 2nd Controller to a 2nd JRGB Port) Comments From The Weather Man This was a really fun build. I started by stripping down the S2 case so that I could understand my options and was not disappointed by all of the nooks within the case which left many possibilities to be explored. I stated by choosing the Unify Board because it was the most basic x570 board I could find which also had just enough features for multiple future planned upgrades down the line. Even though this build has quite a few LED elements, I appreciate that this board has minimalist design which does not force its own lighting on my design. I am also happy with the Bios options which will make my Overclocking adventure a really fun story to tell when that time arrives. For the CPU I went with a 3900x. This was a future proofing choice. It will handle my Multi Tasking habit and also not bottle neck a planned upgrade to a Duel 3000 Graphics purchase for Christmas. This CPU is being cooled down by a NH-D15 with White Caps added for looks. The fans have been setup to blow cool air to the center and then get sucked out the bottom by the lower case exhaust arrangement. The vertical GPU orientation allows the air to flow down with no impediments. Future upgrades include liquid metal and Lathing as part of the future Overclocking Adventure. I went with Crucial ram for pure aesthetic reasons and I went with 32gb because I tend to run allot of programs at once and the extra Ram allows me to Game while I work. For the GPU I just wanted a white card that was good enough to give me a good experience today without spending too much. I will end up selling this on Ebay when I upgrade in December. This 2070 allows me to easily game at 4k/30+ FPS in FFXV and other titles I have tested so far. Gigabyte has software to change the color of the on board LED but once you choose your color you can just delete the program as the card holds your choice permanently. I did Vertically mount this because this case has about 20mm between the side panel and the card for plenty of airflow. This places the card perfectly in line with the top of the Noctua Heat sink. If I had done a Horizontal mount I would have to worry about GPU sag and it would have not lined up with the dimensions of the heat sink as nicely. I do not need allot of storage so I went with just a single 1tb NVME gen 4 as my boot drive. I am very happy with this choice as it takes advantage of the PCIE 4 and gave my higher then advertised results when I ran it through some benchmarks. For airflow I went absolutely overboard and threw in as many fans as the case could hold just because I wanted too. The one thing to note here is that while most people will have a single case fan blow out behind the CPU I am actually bringing air in through that location. The reason I am doing that is because my CPU fan setup wants air from both sides of the CPU and then is exhausting the hot air down. Because of this I did add a small air filter between the case and the fan. All 7 intake fans are filtered. I was forced to place to 120mm fan in the bottom of the case instead of 140mm because the larger fans would not fit due to the LEDs and the Power Supply. This also left me a little extra room for cables and with the 23 extra components I have many wires to manage. Power was chosen for silence more and size vs power so that I could fit everything in. I also went with a 750w to allow for all of the extra components. I know a single case fan does not have allot of pull but when you have 11 fans and 12 lighting elements then the those small numbers start adding up to something that at least has to be considered in your power totals. Finally to give me a massive increase in FPS, CPU clock speed, Extra RAM speed and lower heat ratings across the board I added LED elements throughout the case. To achieve these amazing stats I went with the Phantek Digital LED system with Halo products on each case fan and NEON stips along the motherboard and the base of the panel. This products works with MSI's Mystic Lighting product and finally brings lighting to my Noctua Fans (I hope Noctua does not repo my fans!). I have these lights synced with my system's sound output which provides me with a simple light show and also keeps the lights off when I am not using my computer without requiring any thought. Something to think about when it comes to LED products like these is that they do burn out eventually. So doing it this way will keep them working longer. Frozen In The Blizzard has been a passion project of mine for the last two months which began with my first post a while ago about stripping down the Meshify S2 case for this build. At the time I had bigger aspirations about doing an entire series about the build. Life gets in the way and my lack of experience with media and story telling really made the venture more then I am ready for. I did take lots of video and photos to document the adventure I had and maybe in the future I will have the talent to tell the full story of how this build got from point A to point B. Thank You! In conclusion I want to thank everyone in the community. I am not able to give credit to all of the individuals because I just do not remember every single person but I want to thank every person who created a video I watched, a post I read or a website I looked at to help me with this build. Your content matters and it helps all of us with these builds we share with you. "I looks like that Blizzard is finally done. You're Grand Dad told me you built a new computer. Can it dial up Facebook for me?" - Grandma
  8. I have enjoyed working on and building my own computers for my entire life but this will be the first time that I really share it with anyone outside of my circle of friends. I found this forum and am really pulled to the idea of sharing this experience with others who might enjoy the story I am about to tell. I bounced between a few ideas for how to theme this build and when I began I was going to try to go with an All White build. I found this to be a challenge due to the limited supply of PC parts. I was also going to go with some really cool RGB builds and found this to be frustrating in my attempt to mix multiple Eco-Systems between the already limited parts which were available in white. During my time with the All White build theme I found that the Fractal Meshify S2 case met almost all of my goals. It was one of the only cases which featured a tempered glass panel with a white border. I felt that I can turn all of the remaining black parts of the case into white with some paint but that having the glass already be white was one major headache I was able to avoid. After I received the case I ultimately felt that I needed to drop the All White theme and go with a Black & White theme for this PC. Fortunately the case fits this theme choice perfectly. I opened the Box from Fractal and found a wonderful case. I decided the first step of this build project was to get to know my case and I did this by stripping it down as much as I could. I removed every single screw and wire I could. I felt that I could not know what was possible to upgrade until I knew what could and could not be removed. So today for the first post of this Multi-Part Build Log I wanted to share with you the photos of a completely stripped down Meshify S2 case. Once I stripped it down the total weight was only 1/3 of its original and I was really able to understand the structure of the case better. Doing this has allowed me to better plan out the next parts I am buying. The next update to this will be in about 2 weeks when the next shipment of parts comes in. It took me forever to choose the Power Supply, Case Fan and CPU cooling setup which fit my overall Black & White theme but I am really happy with my final choices and I look forward to sharing them with you. My final note on this post is to happily recommend the Meshify S2 for its easy modification factor.