gregg_goldstein

Solved that courtesy of a helpful PCMR Redditor. It appears the UEFI boot loader (part of BIOS) got absolutely screwed in the process of said cable yankage, resulting in the Windows Boot Manager being unable to load itself properly. As USB booting didn't work, this meant it was a BIOS problem. All it needed was a simple re-flash of the BIOS (this particular mobo supports flashing from USB), so I updated it to the latest stable ver. While I was at it and it loaded up like a charm.

Hi Guys, I am experiencing a consistent boot issue with my ASRock X570 Phantom Gaming-ITX/TB3 motherboard that I have been unable to resolve. My system fails to boot correctly, consistently returning the error message "BlInitializeLibrary failed 0xc0000001." The issue initially appeared when my PC could not wake up from sleep mode. After a forced shutdown by disconnecting the power cord, the boot error started to occur. Here are the details of my system configuration: Operating System: Windows 11 Pro Motherboard: ASRock X570 Phantom Gaming-ITX/TB3 Mini ITX AM4 CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2x16) DDR4-3200 CL16 SSD: Intel 660p 1TB NVMe Graphics Card: RTX3080ti 12GB PSU: Corsair SF750 80+ Platinum To troubleshoot the issue, I have undertaken the following steps: Checked the boot order in the BIOS: The operating system SSD is listed first. Loaded default BIOS settings: I restored the default settings in the BIOS. Disabled Secure Boot, Fast Boot, and CSM: I adjusted these settings in various combinations in the BIOS, but the error persisted. Cleared CMOS: I used the dedicated Clear CMOS button on my motherboard, but this didn't help. Tried to boot into Windows from a USB stick: I created a bootable Windows 11 USB drive and attempted to boot from it, but the same error occurred. I tried setting all other boot items, including the SSD, to disabled, leaving just the option to boot from USB. Despite these troubleshooting steps, the error persists, and I cannot boot into Windows 11 from either the SSD or a USB drive. Any ideas if I could have fried something when yanking out the power cord? I took it out and plugged it back in pretty quickly, and I could hear a "spark noise" - the PSU is pretty balling, but this looks like maybe a RAM issue. I'm at a loss... Many thanks, Greg

Summary Developers are overpromising gamers "photorealistic" graphics since the infamous days of the PS2's The Getaway. Setting aside what "photorealistic" means, we may be closer to that unicorn goal than ever before. Researchers at Intel Labs may soon have us covered by applying machine learning techniques to rendered footage captured from a console. Quotes My thoughts Before you jump in on relevant modding forums, they are turning a recording of a playthrough and applying a process which makes it look "photorealistic". Inference currently takes half a second. This is a step toward integrating real-time AI enhancement into rendering pipelines, but it’s not ready for an actual game. It’s not real time yet, and, it's not clear when we would have the GPU grunt available to apply any of the techniques discussed in the paper in real time. Sources https://gizmodo.com/grand-theft-auto-looks-frighteningly-photorealistic-wit-1846878938 https://intel-isl.github.io/PhotorealismEnhancement/

Surely!!! Swapped it out and sending it back. I wanted to play around with trying to stabilise it. Before it goes back to AMD I'm going to pop it back to the B450 it was in previously and try to replicate the behaviour. I'm wondering whether the X570 runs some sort of OC that throws it off, or whether it degraded so much.

Hey guys, I managed to stabilise everything, and I figured I will post a final write-up in case anyone runs into similar issues. Many thanks for your input, it turns out you were right, mostly at least, and definitely insofar as the method of diagnosing/isolating and fixing the fault were. There's an added step that was needed, but it became apparent once the CPU got stabilised. As such: Yes, this was correct - it had been the CPU all along. I suspect I will need to RMA it, as it's less than a year old, was running stock in my previous rig and the level of silicone degradation makes no sense for the age of the part. THIS was the solution to stabilise the system. It took a 25mV offset to bring the CPU back to a stable state. Most freezes, shutdowns and random crashes have stopped, though the odd BSODs were popping up. These were related to bad/missing drivers. It was also a self-inflicted problem, a case where I had been trying to be more clever than my mobo vendor by picking and choosing what drivers I want to have installed. One fresh install later and inclusion of the previously omitted AMD VGA driver pack (literally on my mobo's support site) helped to sort the issue out. Also, I would warn against using any driver manager software, in my case I had originally gone the lazy way and downloaded the DriverBooster, unfortunately the way these programmes seem to work is to apply ANY driver rather than admit defeat. As such, it has been forcing the incorrect drivers causing additional instability. So my system is stable AS is, I'm going to RMA the old CPU (unless this level of degradation is normal?) when I can get my hands on a 5k series Ryzen. Many thanks once again for all your help!

Thanks guys, I've got a sealed 3600X next to me, I'll go in, swap out the CPU only and see if that helps. If it won't I will try re-seating everything, since I will have unpacked my neatly cable managed shoebox in order to do this. Next in line is a fresh install with manual driver updates, as I don't have a sterile-enough system restore point. Fingers crossed that I will see the end of it at one of the above steps. For sanity/curiosity, I will put the CPU back in the old mobo, I have another cooler, RAM and a 1080ti around to put together a test bench and see what's what. PS. As for the old CPU breaking - I did drive it across 1500miles when moving, while still socketed in the old board. I filled the old case with those little bags of air they use when they ship ready made systems, then I wrapped it in foam; and the car has air-suspension - tl;dr I was careful... Still, that's a fairly probable cause tbh. *edit: PPS. Attached full memtest report - no errors detected. MemTest86-Report-20201107-144648.html

Thanks guys, I've got a sealed 3600X next to me, I'll go in, swap out the CPU only and see if that helps. If it won't I will try re-seating everything, since I will have unpacked my neatly cable managed shoebox in order to do this. Next in line is a fresh install with manual driver updates, as I don't have a sterile-enough system restore point. Fingers crossed that I will see the end of it at one of the above steps. For sanity/curiosity, I will put the CPU back in the old mobo, I have another cooler, RAM and a 1080ti around to put together a test bench and see what's what. PS. As for the old CPU breaking - I did drive it across 1500miles when moving, while still socketed in the old board. I filled the old case with those little bags of air they use when they ship ready made systems, then I wrapped it in foam; and the car has air-suspension - tl;dr I was careful... Still, that's a fairly probable cause tbh.

Well it's less than 12 months old so I still have warranty there, however, how wishful is to think the fault may be elsewhere - I had been running this CPU just fine for months without a single issue on the B450 board before. I'll have another CPU to test tomorrow, I'll go in, re-seat everything and swap over the GPU riser to the one which came with the case (2080ti won't benefit from GEN4 speeds anyways). I will of course try to isolate the issues, ie. first just re-seat everything and swap the riser, as it's the least intensive of the two jobs, see if it will have made any difference, then try the new CPU. Will report when done. My temps are on the higher side, but still perfectly fine, under Prime95 load the maximum peak was 94C CPU and 93.3 chipset, but, both stabilised at around 90 under sustained load. Please bear in mind I am running a small hot box (Louqe Ghost S1), and irl my CPU rarely reaches 78C (basically gaming workloads).

For all intents and purposes it's impossible to check atm. That's my case https://www.louqe.com/ghost-s1/ and I can't physically plug the GPU in without it. Having said that, I have a PCIe Gen 3 Riser which came with the case laying around, so before going down the complete teardown route I'm minded to check that. Though ideally I'd wait and see if there are any software related troubleshooting steps I could try before disassembling everything.

Thanks, completed the p95 run, full results attached, came up with one error: [Fri Nov 6 16:11:49 2020] FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 8.203518461e+11, expected less than 0.4 Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file. Self-test 36K passed! Gonna re-run Memtest86. results.txt

Yes, sorry - I've run memtest86 as well. It was a lot to round up, my bad:)

Hello guys, I'm looking for some help with my newly upgraded computer; at this stage, it's effectively a new build, as I am trying a fresh SSD with a new Windows 10 Pro installation. I'm getting the following errors: IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL APC_INDEX_MISMATCH KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE and frequent crashes not logged. Below a list of key hardware as per guidelines: OS - Windows 10 Pro, x64, full retail ver.; fresh installation Own build with no OEM OS CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor (10 months old; used in previous build, working fine) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12 Ghost S1 37.8 CFM CPU Cooler (new) Motherboard: ASRock X570 PHANTOM GAMING-ITX/TB3 Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard (new) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory (new) Storage: Intel 660p Series 1.02 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (10 months old; used in previous build, checked and validated with Intel software, no errors, full health) Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB Founders Edition Video Card (20 months old; used in previous build, working fine) Power Supply: Corsair SF 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply (10 months old; used in previous build, working fine) Case Fan: Noctua A12x15 PWM 55.44 CFM 120 mm Fan (new) Monitor: Xiaomi XM700001 34.0" 3440x1440 144 Hz Monitor (new) Mouse: Logitech G Pro Wireless Wireless Optical Mouse (10 months old; used in previous build, working fine) Custom: OWC Thunderbolt 3 Pro Dock (new) Custom: LINKUP - Ultra PCIe 4.0 X16 Riser Cable Twin-axial Vertical Mount Gaming PCI Express Gen4 2020 | Straight Socket {25 cm} 3.0 Gen3 & TT Compatible (new) I can't get it to a stable state; I'm getting BSODs every couple of minutes and the machine is currently not much more than a pretty, but somewhat overpriced paperweight. I'm going to provide you with a crash dump analysis below, as well as links to my latest dump files. For clarity, I'm going to include the steps I've taken thus far. Anything else is currently above my paygrade, and, I exhausted both my knowledge and google-fu skills at this point: Hardware is running at stock values (no overclock, no XMP, UEFI defaults loaded). The motherboard is running the latest BIOS which at the time of writing this is ver.2.7.0. Latest drivers and Windows Updates are installed (except for currently optional KB4580364 that became available to me during the last few days. I hadn't applied it for the simple reason that the computer cannot maintain stability for long enough to download the update). I used the latest available drivers as per Iobit's Driver Booster application (to save time on having to search for, check and apply drivers manually). During this "run" I took extra steps to reboot after installing each driver from the list and run the computer for a while to see whether it had any effect on the BSODs. This extra effort did not result in much extra time wasted, as the BSODs are numerous and frequent:). I had purposefully not installed any antivirus software. Any software installed by me on this machine (which includes even the Chrome browser, I mean ANY in the most literal sense here) has been added after the steps above, and I had not noticed any increase or further decrease in system stability. It still pretty much crashes every couple of minutes. I had run the following checks: Extended Memory test - no errors found, two passes Elevated admin console: SFC /scannow - no errors DISM /online /cleanup-image /scanhealth - no errors DISM /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth - completed, no issues Another problem I am having is that I cannot upload anything larger than 1MB to any platform, be it onedrive or google drive. I had to move to my laptop to upload the *.DMP files below: OneDrive Crash Dump Data shared Please note that I had approx six crashes not recorded in the dump files whilst trying to post this (before I resigned to my laptop;). That's between 14:18 GMT at the time of writing and 12:31 GMT as recorded in the Crash Dump Analysis attached. I am unable to attach PERFMON output as it doesn not finish. I let it run, it does not appear to be doing anything, but the 60 seconds passes, at no point the option to save output becomes avaiable and inevitably my system crashed as per usual after about 15-20m. I hope the WhoCrashed output (PDF attached to the thread) helps in the meantime. I'm looking forward to your thoughts on the matter. I just wanted to play me some games after a platform update in anticipation of the new Ryzen CPUs;(. Many thanks! Crash Dump Analysis.pdf

Thanks mate, these are some valid points re installation, though I don't think the APs work as extenders strictly speaking, and for any ceiling mounted APs I'd need dedicated cable runs. I guess I'll give Senetic a shout, even though they are likely to charge... let's be fair and say adequately to their expertise. It feels like rolling out a cannon to try and shoot a mosquito with but hey, PCMR and all that;).

Hi guys! I had been mulling over the WiFi setup at my new home - can you help me, please? Due to the currently prevalent human malware situation and delays it caused we are extremely short on time when it comes to the move and the work that will be carried out. As such, I need to plan this installation blind, without having access to the property, I need to order everything and have it at the ready, the installers will need to come in, do the cable runs and then the builders move in with whatever else they're scheduled to be doing. The Basics This Google Photos album has screenshots of my currently "planned deployment" created in the UniFi Design Center. I was too stupid to figure out a way to share the designs from within the suite in any other way, sorry if it's a thing. The house is spread across four floors and that is the thing that's throwing me off - I am yet to find a definitive source of information on how the APs behave in a vertical space. Most resources I found on the forums say either something vague like 1 or 2 APs per typical house or pertain to commercial deployment scenarios, where one is likely to be dealing with concrete floors anyway. The Internets I have a Gigabit fibre optic connection terminating in the cupboard. The cupboard is about as tidy when it comes to the hodgepodge of pipes and tanks as in the attached image (album), hence I am minded to relocate the rack under the stairs. The House Some general info on materials and construction: Internal walls between rooms in were built in block work or from metal frames. Block work walls can be finished in plaster or plasterboard dry lining. Metal framed walls are finished in plasterboard. External walls Walls that are used to separate townhouses are designed to provide an effective sound and fire barrier. In the townhouses the party walls are constructed of two leafs of concrete blocks with a mineral wool insulation cavity infill. They have a plasterboard finish. Plan notes Ground floor: Wife's study, toilet, pantry, kitchen/dining room, terrace/garden || Rack under stairs First floor: My study/guest bedroom, bathroom, drawing room Second floor: Kids' bedrooms/study rooms Third floor: Master bedroom, walk-in wardrobe, bathroom The Goals We would like to have a 10GbE solution for work on shared 4k video projects, run a NAS and a Plex server for media distribution. Having a centralised Steam Library is also an added bonus, I'll get on it when I have the time;). As such I'm planning for: Cable runs to the spots where main devices require hardline connection: both studies, entertainment centre in the drawing room, kids bedrooms. That's work, kids schoolwork and main entertainment/media consumption (drawing room powered by an HTPC). Excellent WiFi coverage throughout. That's mobiles/tablets and the occasional time a laptop is used not plugged in;). I'm minded to focus on 5GHz on all APs save one with good access to downstairs and the first floor (my on-paper candidate is the in-wall AP in my wife's study downstairs) - we don't have too many legacy WiFi devices and the 2.4 GHz will be mostly to serve the guest network. This is the area I'm struggling with the most, due to my lack of knowledge about the vertical signal range between floors. Any comments as the the appropriate numbers of APs or alternative locations are welcome, as well as whether I should be careful of the between-AP interference, if I intend to run them on different alternating channels, and, being the end of terrace I only have one neighbour to my left (when looking at the plans). The Monies, please One of the attached album pictures contains an estimate of the total costs w/o the actual cable runs and on site installation. Gulp! Help me please not spend all that money needlessly. I know I should be using the Nano HD instead of the Pros, but the Design Center fails to feature them (or I'm too stupid to figure out where they are), but besides cutting down on the amount of APs I don't see immediate cost saving measures. Thanks!

Guys, has anyone got any idea why my little Razer Blade 13 is getting back to back assignments while the main PC which cracks 150-200k tasks a go can't get a thing for hours on end? Luck of the draw?