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PriitM

Member
  • Content Count

    63
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About PriitM

  • Title
    Member

System

  • CPU
    i7-7700k
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z170 M3 Gaming
  • RAM
    16GB DDR4 HyperX
  • GPU
    Asus Strix R9 390X
  • Case
    Own design from plywood
  • Storage
    512GB SSD + 8TB external vault
  • PSU
    550W Enermax fanless
  • Display(s)
    ASUS MG28U 4K@60Hz and Freesync
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH14 and 1x Bitfenix Specter 200mm exhaust fan
  • Keyboard
    Natec Medusa 2 or HP Collaboration keyboard
  • Mouse
    A4Tech X750
  • Sound
    Philips Fidelio X2 HR
  • Operating System
    Win 10 64 bit

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  1. Realtek audio driver offers you audio port mapping. Then, in windows volume control you should be able to mute/unmute channels. I bet there is dedicated channel switch software somewhere. But I have found it easier to keep the external volume/on-off fob on the table and just switch speakers on-off.
  2. This is for the record: Hardest part is taking off the finish. I think its well covered in this thread, tho I recommend using caution with solvents. You can stain aluminium with the wrong solvent. Getting the "brushed" look tho: satin finish pads. Spongy pads, available from the paint section of your local hardware store. There are several kinds, but most often you find two: brown for soft materials like wood and plastics and green for stainless steel/metal. Advantages are: even pressure over surface and uniform depth of "cut". Better for finishing curved surfaces.
  3. Two regular PC cases from scratch build behind me, Im working on my third. And when I say case...its more of a minimum space water cooling thingy. Radiators will be the sidepanels. To build a case, you must focus on 3 areas: Material strength airflow post-build accessibility. If you can work out these three areas then everything else should be copy-pasta-assembly around existing parts. Material choice: wood (plywood/MDF/edge glued panels): cheap, abundant, CNC friendly, forgiving when finishing-assembly. Downsides are moisture absorption and weight. Plastics: (Acrylic, polycarb): unique, wide range of colours/finishes. Easy to work with, stable material. Pain in the ass to finish and assemble, not CNC friendly, Needs experience to work with Metals: strength per weight. Forgiving when finishing. Most stable material, forgiving when assembling. Most difficult to work with, requires power tools and proper workshop. If you want design help, PM me
  4. How much space you have?
  5. Take EQ sliders. Imagine there is a middle line. Everything left of the middle line= bass. Evertyhing right= NOT bass. Quick maths
  6. What do you want to have? I built 3 different cases from plywood. Also am proficient in lateral thinking and CAD softwares...so take that as you would for experience
  7. Obviously you have not experienced online rage...
  8. HP Collaboration/Elite V2. Not a chicklet but a scissor switch. BTW, dont confuse a chicklet with scissor switches: Chicklets use tougher domes because there is less support for the keys. Always found with any chicklet them being much much mushier. Scissor switches use lighter domes, thus faster and less press weight.
  9. Yes, I know these exist, but imagine you dont want mounting screw heads on your front panel. That means inserting sockets from the front. And if the connector is bigger than the mounting hole, you must solder. Thats what im saying.
  10. X2HR for sure since they are 32 ohm (no need for amp), most comfortable and most versatile. Not the brightest, but you dont get listening fatigue after many hours
  11. You could try mic gain. I had a low level hiss (DC hiss) for years, until I turned down mic gain from 20db to 10db. Low level high pitched whine usually means coil whine, most likely GPU.
  12. High pitched sound could mean coil whine. Are you using front panel audio socket? If so, then try with rear socket. If the whine persists, then we can go from there
  13. Yes, you can get individual USB 3.0 female sockets, but 3.0 uses 9 wires compared to 4 on USB 2.0. And Type-C uses 17... try solderin them on a tiny socket...
  14. You gotta squeeze those nuts to get them loose...for real
  15. 60cm...thats like knee height. There is absolutley no chance of damage to the driver. Let alone the magnet popping off the glue. And you should have heard hissing/crackling during the first listening. If you did'nt Congrats, your OCD can focus on other things. Like that dent you did on the carpet...
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