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About MrBrightSyde

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  1. The Dell S2719DGF is a TN panel that is pretty good and reliable. If you want an IPS monitor, you could try the BenQ EX2780Q. It's only 20 pound over budget. Heard it's really nice but do not use HDR as it's only HDR400 and looks horrible. Also, this next monitor is out-of-stock online in the UK but if you can find it for anywhere around 380-420 pounds (might have to check local stores), the LG 27GL83A would be a better choice than the BenQ.
  2. I have a few questions. First is budget? Second is what type of panel you want? TN, VA, or IPS? Third is what are you mainly going to use it for? Gaming, Work, or Watching TV shows and movies?
  3. Well, it seems there are a few points of failure. I would start by rolling back your Nvidia drivers and see if that fixes it. If it doesn't, make sure that your wireless adapter is working properly and is seated properly on the headset. Double-check all cables too, since one of them could've been frayed, or something like that.
  4. Your PSU doesn't actually affect performance of your parts. If you were overloading your PSU, it would've been overheating and likely been melted by now. The power recommendation is for idiots who buy the cheapest PSUs with crap efficiency and doesn't actually supply the full wattage it says it does so that the manufacturers of GPUs are covered legally. Anyway, you need a CPU upgrade. That's what is holding back your performance.
  5. I'd wait for the next gen cards to come out. Theoretically speaking, the Nvidia 3070 (or whatever they're going to name it) would have at least 1.7x the performance over the 1070, basing on benchmarks between the 2070 non-Super and 1070, with the 2070 non-Super being about 30-35% faster than the 1070.
  6. They are all the same tier so it basically comes down to price and features The Gigabyte G750H is a semi-modular 80+ Gold rated PSU The Cooler Master 550w MWE Gold is a fully-modular 80+ Gold rated PSU The Corsair CX650 is a non-modular 80+ Bronze rated PSU All come with a standard 5 year warranty. If they are within ~$10-15, the Gigabyte would be my choice due to higher wattage. Second choice would be the 550w MWE Gold for being fully modular and Gold-rated over the CX. CX would be last since it's a Bronze-rated non-modular PSU.
  7. Those are all OC'd to the max and are not stock. I was comparing to stock clocks like in this GamersNexus video (it also shows the cards OCd though those are mild compared to the video you showed.
  8. Depends on the Resolution of your monitor and it's refresh rate. The 5700 XT is about 10% better than the 2060Super in 1080p and about 8% better in 1440p. for the same price the 5700 XT is better overall, though it does have a few issues with it's drivers which can cause headaches. In that case the 2060Super has more reliable drivers but lacks performance. Maybe in 5-10 years, RTX (and whatever AMDs equivalent would be if popular enough) will be viable to use, but right now it isn't worth the performance drop when turned on. Also, it doesn't matter how reliable something is. You could buy the most reliable parts and still have a chance at a dud, whether it be the CPU, GPU, RAM, etc. Just as long as it's not complete trash and riddled with issues(looks at 2080TI launch), you should be fine.
  9. The question is do you want to play the GPU lottery (not as bad as the panel lottery). You are making minimal gains and if you already have a 5700XT, why would you do a side grade? Also depending on the game and what resolution you game on, you could get anywhere from 2-3 fps in favor of the 5700 XT, to 10 FPS in favor of the Radeon VII. Basically, the performance difference is minimal and that a Radeon VII is not worth the extra ~$70 USD, especially since you already have the 5700 XT
  10. Depends on the game and how they implement Ray Tracing. Metro Exodus? 2080 Ti is the only viable option (maybe a 2080 Super) for anything higher than 1080p 60hz. COD: Modern Warfare? a 2060 non-super would work. Also, OP is using a 1080p 60hz TV as a monitor, so 1440p isn't relevant here. In all honesty, for 1080p 60hz with RTX capabilities, the 2060 or 2060 Super would be the best option, whichever is cheaper (if the Super is within $15 USD of the 2060, get the Super).
  11. 24" 1440p 144hz? There's only like 4-5 of those and they are all above $300 and this is assuming you are based out of the US I'll list those that come close to the budget, then I'll recommend monitors that don't meet the 24" spec. In spec but a little overbudget: AOC AG241QX Dell S2417DG In budget but not 24": Dell S2719DGF MSI Optix MAG27CQ (curved) AOC CQ27G1 (curved)
  12. Basically anything between a 1660 Super to a 2060 Super will fit your needs.
  13. Are you sure you are running the RAM at 2666 mhz? Check in the BIOS to see if it's running at 2666 or it might just be running at 2133. Also check and make sure you are plugging into the GPU and not the Motherboard. It will be running off of the integrated graphics of the CPU if that's the case. And make sure you double-check the power connectors to the GPU are completely plugged in. Also, is the 8GB of RAM in your new PC one or two sticks? Same question for the old PC. If the old PC had two sticks while the new PC has one stick, that would cause a significant difference to performance as RAM running on single channel won't run as fast as dual channel. That wouldn't completely explain why the old PC would run better than the new PC, but it is a factor which will show.
  14. That doesn't help. What is your monitor? What refresh rate are you going for? If it's 60hz, then the 2060 non-Super (or Super if you can get it for around the same price) is your best bet. If it's 144hz, then you should get a 2070 Super (or a 5700 XT if you're fine with AMD)