Mclegendary

Hi everyone, I opened the Windows 10 advanced troubleshooting on my Lenovo laptop to access the UEFI from it, where I needed to enable Intel Vt-x. Since this, my laptop has been booting straight into the troubleshooting menu. The continue to Windows 10 option does not appear. I tried running startup repair and loading optimized defaults, nothing's changed. Thanks in advance for your help.

Hi everyone, I'm looking for a USB drive for a portable installation of Arch Linux. Ideally I'd like something compact, but also fast enough that it doesn't feel slow for someone who's used to an SSD. I want something smaller than the Corsair Voyager GTX, but with better random read/write than the Voyager Vega. What is the smallest USB drive that won't feel too different from an SSD? I'm not particularly worried about capacity. Thanks in advance for your help.

I did have a multiport top on hand, and using that as an inlet fixed some of the strange noises my pump was making. Now I have to wait for an aqua pipe to prevent the falling water. I'm also going to try filling the loop through one of the vacant ports on the radiator.

I disassembled my pump and reseated the impeller, but nothing's working. Is it time to call my pump dead?

I've tried this, and now the pump makes a deep whirring sound without changing the water level at all. Air bubbles rise from the pump to the top of the reservoir. Do I need to completely fill the reservoir, and should I run the loop with the top of the reservoir closed?

How would I go about getting the air out of the pump?

Hi everyone, I'd nearly finished my custom watercooling loop when my pump started acting up. It's a Laing DDC with the bitspower 250 upgrade kit, bitspower top, and EK heatsink. I'm using monsoon compression fittings. When I start the pump, the water level in the reservoir briefly drops, then becomes constant. The pump starts making a sharp crackling sound. When I stop the pump, the water level returns to what it was. The video attached shows this in more detail. Does anyone have any suggestions? pump.mp4

I'm using the following components: EK supremacy evo Laing d5 with Bitspower upgrade kit and mod top Phobya 9x140mm radiator There are quite substantial lengths of hose because I'm going external. How much distilled water should I be using?

I'm looking for a new mouse primarily for playing Counter Strike GO, right now I'm using a cheap Sharkoon shark force. The mice I've been considering are the SS sensei RAW, the Zowie ECx-a and the Roccat kone pure optical, but any other suggestions are welcome. I need it to have an optical sensor, good ergonomics and I don't need 600 buttons. I have fairly small hands and my grip is a weird palm claw hybrid.

The msi board is much better. On top of that gigabyte has also had recent issues with changing the specs of some of their motherboards. http://overclock3d.net/articles/cpu_mainboard/gigabyte_in_ebenezer_mode/1 Side note: While I was writing this msi announced an x99s sli krait edition.

Use AIDA64 or OCCT and stability test for at least 6 hours.

Get the G skill. The only downside is the stupid stickers they put on the RAM.

So I want to get a monitor to replace my cheap 1080p tn panel. I am planning on getting a 1440p Korean monitor and I can't decide which one. I've shortlisted a few but I'd be open to more suggestions and I will be putting them on an arctic z2 monitor mount if that information is important. Crossover Black Tune 2735AMG http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2735AMG-IPS-LED-27-LG-AH-IPS-2560X1440-27-inch-PC-MONITOR-/130921768588?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7b8ba68c Qnix qx2710 true10 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor-/111380363963?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item19eec97abb Qnix qx2710 true10 with multiple inputs http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-EVOLUTION-II-DP-MULTI-TRUE10-27-LED-2560x1440-Computer-Monitor-/121505895037?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c4a50d27d

It's probably because your motherboard simply doesn't have the same overclocking capabilities as the sabertooth. It also may be because you have overclocked your processor since you changed motherboard. Higher RAM frequency puts extra stress on the IMC which can tip the CPU over the edge.

The whole point of this is for when you do not have access to specs, and it can also check for interferences with mobo heatsinks and PCI-e slots.