Juular

You've been told multiple times already that XPG Core Reactor and Corsair RM are pretty much on part, it's only the question of the price at this point. If the price is similar then get Corsair RM.

If that means the difference between the cables/adapters/splitters melting or not, then it is. You have a shitton of GPUs, why not just get a second PSU ?

There are no 85°C caps in the RM ... The fan is also pretty much the same thing as in RM-x 2018, just unbranded.

Replace it when you upgrade. For this build it's fine, chances are if you replace the thermal paste under it's FETs and maybe replace secondary side capacitors which show the signs of aging, it would be still better than modern Seasonic Prime GX but i wouldn't risk it with thousands dollars worth of the new hardware.

Trick question

With RTX3060 - no.

750W. RM-x is fine.

It's not the PSU fault that the connectors get oxidized, resistance rises, voltage falls and the load needs more current for the same power which heats up them even more, further raising resistance in a vicious cycle. You've reseated the cables and scratched off the oxidation, it would work for a while but then it would eventually oxidize again, put some grease on the terminals, it'll keep the humidity out. Corsair uses better terminals than most other PSU manufacturers out there including Seasonic and Super Flower, there are people from high-humidity countries with their Seasonic Focus having the PSU side connectors melted away, yours just shuts down.

That's the problem with this layout, Lian Li O11 is not a good pick if you have HDDs. You can try to swap the side-intake fans for exhaust so they get the air from the main compartment and 'exhaust' into the secondary one, and then close the perforation on the side panel somehow so the air is forced to go through the HDD cage.

If it's set to single-rail now then it would be rather surprising that it trips and the cables are still intact ... It's probably multi-rail. Get some dielectric grease for PSU side terminals.

It's supposed to be multi-rail by default. Living somewhere in a humid climate by any chance ?

Looks like some PSU protection kicking in, when it shuts down exactly ? Under load ? In games ? Happens any faster if you run Furmark and Prime95 simultaneously ? Tried switching to single-rail mode ? Also check and reseat all PSU cables on both ends.

It wasn't, because there's a very limited amounts of users with it. But it's a stock Seasonic Prime PX/TX so it's not unreasonable to expect it to perform exactly the same, including the flaws it has. Correct, it's not OCP as most people think. It's a design oversight by Seasonic triggered by too aggressive boosting algorithm of nVidia Ampere. But you can expect next generation GPUs to be even more aggressive so at this point it's a given. It was released in 2017, sill pretty much the same design as HX-i from 2013. But it still stands by this time. As long as the PSU was designed properly, that is, the fan curve is configured with all kinds of usage scenarios in mind to not put the PSU under the risk of failing, then that doesn't matter. And you can be assured that it was in the case of Corsair HX, which is also as quiet as Prime TX despite being less efficient because it uses better components. Corsair HX Platinum is better than Seasonic Prime TX / Antec Signature Titanium / Corsair AX in pretty much all metrics except for efficiency. There are basically only two four 80+ Titanium PSUs worth looking at over it, be quiet! Dark Power 12 Pro (not the non-Pro), and Corsair AX1600i, both of which are quite a bit more expensive, and also EVGA T2 or Super Flower Leadex Titanium, which usually aren't any cheaper either.

Yeah, it's not bomb tier bad per se, but it's group regulated with lackluster crossload performance, which alone doesn't let us to move it higher than tier D. And it's like 10 years old by now, so it's time to replace it anyway. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/evga-nex750g/ Tier A LP by current revision

Because you've mixed up models. One is G1 / NEX-G, the other is G1+ / G+. Say thanks to EVGA.

There's TOR (which is speculated to be 'cracked' by law enforcement now), and I2P (which is not 100% safe if you're a target of very high magnitude either) to hide your IP and traffic by routing it through multiple points and otherwise heavily obfuscating your network activity by mixing in unrelated traffic (from other users). And your system / browser fingerprinting can be mitigated by specialized software like Tor Browser and Tails OS. But in the end, if your presence on both clearnet (regular internet) and darknet (TOR / I2P) is high enough - you can be tracked by behavioral and lingual analysis, or rather your clearnet identity can be matched with your darkweb one, if you've bothered the law enforcement enough to warrant deploying this kind of operation. Whether that would hold up in court is another question, but that's a start, so they can then deploy other kinds of targeted attacks at you specifically.

AX1200i isn't sold anymore so it's irrelevant. AX1600i is current model, Corsair doesn't have any current lower wattage AX-i's. HX1200i may be 'old' but it still stands today, but it's also kinda overpriced, HX, non-i is basically the same thing without software control, get that instead. Antec Signature is literally the same thing as Seasonic Prime, which has shutdown issues with Ampere GPUs even in current revision, but it's not OCP unless you indeed max-out it's power delivery capabilities like in your case probably. You know if it's OCP if after the PSU shuts down you can start the PC right back only after resetting the PSU by flicking it's power switch off and on, if you can start it right back without doing so - it's not PSU protection. EVGA P2 is still good, older Super Flower platform. P6 is fine but not worth it over G6 which is the same thing but 80+ Gold (which is a good pick when you need a sub 1kW PSU). There are absolutely no reviews on P+, P3 or P5 so that's an automatic skip. Generally, trying to chase efficiency badge is pointless, the overall quality and performance don't necessarily go along with efficiency. But if you need a high wattage PSU, Corsair HX is basically the go-to choice today, unless EVGA P2 or Super Flower Leadex Platinum are noticeably cheaper. Edit: Also, i assume since that's an open air rig anyway judging by the amount of GPUs you have, it might be easier to just get a second lower wattage PSU, be sure to get one with 16AWG PCIe cables tho since that's a mining rig, and that pretty much limits your choice to Corsair RM/RMx/HX, EVGA G6 850/1000 (sub 850W are 18AWG) or some Thermaltakes (which aren't really worth it price wise over RMx anyway, except maybe for GF1 if it's cheaper). Most of the rest you'll see, including all Seasonics and the rest of EVGA is 18AWG. Super Flower even uses 20/22AWG in PCie after first connector with Leadex III and V, saving like a buck in total, WTF ...

If restore on power loss setting is set to off then it was likely the RAM.

It's a fully passive PC, unless they're living in Canada or smth, there's going to be hot in there, with zero airflow.

If it powers up the system, shuts down, goes to sleep and wakes up properly then what the tester shows is irrelevant.

And most modern 750W probably wouldn't either depending on the exact GPU.

But it's Noctua, it's magic ! Fanless PSUs are joke, and there's a reason why fanless PSUs don't go higher than 700W, and even that is not really suitable for a completely passive system because all of them are rated only for 40°C ambient and rely on the airflow already existing in the case in the first place. Just get a quiet non-fanless PSU instead.

With anything other than a Threadripper - it's not. GPU transient power draw spikes don't really contribute to the PSU wattage considerations. A good 750W PSU would be able to sustain an RTX3070 just fine, with the average power draw in torture stress tests with the most power hungry and overclocked desktop Intel CPUs out there some 50W shy of the PSU continuous rating. And nowhere near that in games or 99% of other workloads, so even a good 650W would be fine in that case. For RTX3080 however, or especially RTX3080 Ti i'd agree, 750W is very minimum, 850W is optimal, especially if used with some very power hungry CPU.

Considering that Linus is sponsored by Seasonic and shills them left and right, it was probably one of their fanless models. There's no window but the outer casing is mesh. Looks cool but Seasonic's fanless PSUs are even more overpriced than their regular models, since they're essentially downrated higher wattage models for even higher price. Unless you want such PSU just for the sake of it, there are better options which would be silent at sub 500-600W load.

Yes.