Overtime

Here's another picture, I never even thought that might be an issue. With the side off it looks good enough to me, what do you think? There's about 5cm/2 inches of room underneath.

I purposefully went for the "ChonkyBoi"-est cooler I could find, ironically to avoid thermal issues. This card is 4 slots and has the biggest heatsink I've ever seen, only 13mm smaller shorter than the biggest 3080 that exists. I'm not very sure, but my room is about 23-24c, maybe a bit hotter than average but I don't think it would make that big of a difference. My case side panel is always open and I usually do stress tests with the CPU at near idle, so that shouldn't be too bad as well. I've kind of gotten used to the temps at near 85 when gaming, but the fans being almost maxed out all the time get annoying and I was hoping to finally be able to fix it (if possible)

Sorry I totally forgot that in the specs, I'm using a Corsair 465x. Here's a picture of my setup if it helps. The front panel is always off.

I bought my 3080 Aorus Master a little over a year now, and I've had thermal issues with it since it came out of the box. I remember the thermals were pretty bad stock, but after repasting and replacing a few thermal pads everything got a lot worse somehow. I've repasted it at least 6-7 times, and replaced the thermal pads 3 times. I started with 2.5mm Thermalright pads (only for the few on the front), switched to 1.5mm, and now Thermal Grizzly Minus 2mm, as I assumed the height of the thermal pads might've caused the issue. I've mostly used Kryonaut to repaste, but now I've recently switched to Gelid GC-Extreme as I was worried the tubes I kept buying from Amazon may have been fake. I've tried a little thermal paste, a normal amount, and a huge amount, and basically nothing helps. My temperatures with my side panel off is at 86 degrees on Furmark (360w, 92% fan), and when the case is closed it throttles to about 280 watts. Most online reviews in closed cases show it at around 60-65 degrees at 60% fan speed, some at higher wattage since this is the Rev 1 with only 2 PCIe connectors. This is a massive 4 slot card with the biggest heatsink I've ever seen by far, so it's a little disappointing At one point I had to RMA the card for an unrelated reason, and they sent it back with their own thermal pads (and probably their own thermal paste as well), I don't remember it being any better at all. I don't think I'm bad at fixing these types of issues, and I didn't really want to bother people by making a thread here, but after an entire year of troubleshooting and loud fans I kind of give up. Do any of you have an idea of what I'm doing wrong? Could the card be defective somehow? Thanks!! Specs: Windows 11 64-bit Ryzen 9 5950x RTX 3080 Aorus Master (Rev 1) 32gb Corsair Vengeance RGB 2x2tb Generic NVMe PCIe 3.0 SSDs MSI B550 Tomahawk Corsair RM850x H115i Platinum RGB Intel AX200 Wifi Card 3x Corsair case fans Latest BIOS

So I don't know how I messed the card up so badly, but yesterday the card worked fine, and it's fans spun immediately after turning on my PC. Now when I try to turn it on, the card doesn't even seem to be powered, and the fans don't spin at all when powered on. When trying to boot with the card (RX 570 Armor OC 8gb), my motherboard is stuck on the same red "VGA" LED, which is the same thing that happens when I boot it without any GPU installed. When installing this card in the second PCIe slot alongside my brother's RX 580, it boots fine, but doesn't show anything in device manager, and even force flashing it with ATIWinFlash just tells me there isn't anything installed in that PCIe slot. I have also tested the card in 3 computers. Is there anything I can do to save the card? Thanks

It's fully stock settings, nothing changed. HWInfo64 screenshot is already attached to my original post. LLC is currently set to the 2nd option (very tiny curve upwards), but I think that would reflect in the voltage reading on HWInfo64 if I'm not mistaken. Deviation is 103-107%, motherboard is a B550 Tomahawk.

I've given up after trying everything I could to lower the temperatures on my 5600x. I have 4 140mm fans on the radiator, I switched from an NH-D15 to a Kraken X63 to a Corsair H115i, bought Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, reseated the CPU/repasted countless times and even swapped the 5600x with my brother's 5600x. At stock settings, it's around 46-55c idle, and 78 degrees under load. At an OC to 4.6GHz, it reaches around 85 degrees. 4.7GHz hits 91 degrees. I have tried countless things to fix it, and these are extremely high end coolers cooling a very low powered chip, the temperatures shouldn't be hitting 91 degrees under a modest OC. My chip can go up to 4.95GHz (curve optimizer), and I really want to try it out at high clock speeds, but temperatures are way too high and the chip throttles. It also REALLY sucks to spend $200+tax (cad) on a cooler for it to run basically as well as the stock cooler that comes in the box. Does anyone have any ideas on what I could be doing wrong? Stock Cinebench Run (1.3v) EDIT: My brother's PC (with the same CPU and cooler at the same settings with the same paste) somehow only reaches 62.5c at stock under load? I built them both basically identically, and even then I troubleshooted a ton, so I'm at a total loss.

Oh my bad, I didn't read the details on the bottom. Seemed a bit too good to be true lol. Thanks for your help!

It's regularly ~$120 CAD ($90 USD), but considering I was waiting for the 3080 for like 4 months, I was able to wait for all PC component sales for the parts I wanted. I was under the assumption that a 220w gigantic air cooler would cool much better than a 260mm AIO. I was watching GN's video about AIO vs air cooling, and at 150 watts, it said the NH-D15 was at 47 degrees.... I assumed if it could cool a 150w CPU to 47.5 degrees, my 95 watt OC would be significantly colder (or around the same temperature AT LEAST), but I have no clue what went wrong. He also cooled a 3950x at 200w to a freezing cold 55 degrees on the same cooler (100% fan speed)!! (click for video). I defenitely didn't think I would ever need to upgrade my cooling capacity to an AIO, but I guess I was wrong. If I'm not doing anything wrong, this kind of video is a bit misleading. Around 22 degrees in my house I'd guess. +- 1 degree.

That's very true, thank you for the information! I'd actually assume water would be better than heatpipes for this kind of scenario too, but the cooler was like $65 USD so an AIO would be out of budget anyways (they are all more expensive in Canada).

I was giving that overclock as a random example, I couldn't possibly use it as it's at 100 degrees and shutting down, I just thought it might be useful for someone to know it was at 100 degrees. I use 1.25v @ 4.3GHz and it's at 83 degrees now, is this a reasonable number or is it too high for my system? This OC is 91w.

Maybe you're right, that actually sucks. No idea why people would buy these kinds of coolers if they make literally no difference for Zen 2, thanks for your help.

I've remounted like 4 times now, could the backplate be the issue or something? I tried screwing the mounting bracket down as much as it can possibly go, and I've repasted 4 times, each after remounting the cooler. Also, I found a 3950x running at 71 degrees on the same NH-D15, mine is on open air so it should have an advantage? 85 degrees for a much lower tier CPU must mean I am doing something wrong, right?

I just built a new PC with an NH-D15 (both 140mm fans attached) and a 3600XT. It reaches 95 watts through AMD's "precision boost overdrive" on Ryzen Master, but temperatures reach around 81-85 degrees, even with both fans on absolutely max speed. Manual 1.33v OC at 4.5GHz hits 100 degrees, I couldn't check the watts used in time. It might also help to note that the temperature difference between fans at 100% and fans at 20% is literally nothing, the heatsink fins are barely warm, and the idle temperature is 40 degrees. I am using AIDA64 Extreme Edition, Cinebench is about 8 degrees cooler for some reason. I've tried taking the NH-D15 off the CPU and screwing it back in 4 times, and I tried everything from very little to a lot of thermal paste (NT-H1). Case side panels are both off, air is relatively cold in the room. The "TDP" of the NH-D15 is 220w, and I bought it due to the fact I thought it was better than a 260mm AIO, and thought I could have a ton of overclocking headroom for this 95 watt CPU. Are these temperatures and behaviors normal, or could I have done something wrong? My old 2600x at 130watts kept similar temperatures on my 212 evo, so I am very confused.

I have a computer that wouldn’t post no matter what I did, and after some troubleshooting, I realized it displayed just fine on another monitor but not my main one. I’ve tried swapping cables, ports etc. and both screens are using the exact same cable interchanged. I am pretty sure this issue has happened more than once with another computer, but I didn’t have the chance to test it with a second monitor. The main monitor that the computer won’t boot/display to is a Sceptre 165hz e258b-1658a, and the one it boots to is a Samsung TSS-23WB LED I’ve tried a Quadro 410, an HD Radeon card and my RX 580, they all have the same issue with one screen booting/displaying and the other not. Please note my screen still worked with my old computer that had the RX 580. Is there any troubleshooting tips I can try? Could my screen be broken, somehow? Thanks for your help! EDIT: I installed Adrenaline drivers on the new computer using the temporary monitor and it fixed the issue. I’m still not sure why that would matter for one monitor but not the other, or why multiple NVIDIA graphics cards wouldn’t boot/display either.

I'll order some right now, thanks for all your help!!

Lots of thermal pastes on amazon/newegg in my area aren't available or are very expensive, do you think the Noctua NT-H1 would do the trick? It's non-conductive on their website and is at a reasonable price.

I don't have any thermal paste on-hand right now but I'll order some asap, hopefully with minimal shipping delays. Thanks!

I've cleaned out the card completely, it didn't help as it was relatively clean already. I also tried lowering the core voltage % and power limit on afterburner with barely any difference

Without any overclocking, my 1080ti has recently been getting extremely hot and throttling down under base clock in any full load. Any idea how to fix it? It's a 3 year old card if that helps, all 3 fans spin. My case does have pretty bad airflow, but the thermals are almost the same with the entire pc side panel off, so I don't think it's an airflow issue. Here's a video of it (sped up 800%) Thanks! (I set a temperature limit at 84 degrees in Afterburner because it would constantly jump to 90 degrees+ and shut my computer down when playing games.)

Can't RMA, its a used PSU I just bought off a random person. : /

It just makes an annoying sound when I'm trying to do anything. It sounds exactly like a lower volume version of an air horn constantly blaring at me.

Do you think there is something I can do to either fix the fan so it moves when needed or increase the fan speed/power?

When on my home screen it sometimes emits a constant electronic buzz (which is different than the small coil whine) while the fan stands still. Sounds exactly like an air horn but quieter. When I turn on a game, the buzz soon starts up and it looks like it's making desperate attempts at pushing the fan but failing. The fan actually does start moving when the game/workload gets bigger, but when between completely idle and full load, the fan is stuck like this. You can only hear the buzz in the first second of the video for some reason (turn up volume), but there is a coil-whine type buzz whenever it tries pushing the fan. I bought this TX650m used a few days ago, did I get scammed or is this normal for the power supply?

That's true, but my main concern is this power supply is extremely loud, broken or not. I'll just use the website you sent me and hopefully find a quieter model from Corsair. Thanks for your help!