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  1. So I don't know how I messed the card up so badly, but yesterday the card worked fine, and it's fans spun immediately after turning on my PC. Now when I try to turn it on, the card doesn't even seem to be powered, and the fans don't spin at all when powered on. When trying to boot with the card (RX 570 Armor OC 8gb), my motherboard is stuck on the same red "VGA" LED, which is the same thing that happens when I boot it without any GPU installed. When installing this card in the second PCIe slot alongside my brother's RX 580, it boots fine, but doesn't show anything in device manager
  2. It's fully stock settings, nothing changed. HWInfo64 screenshot is already attached to my original post. LLC is currently set to the 2nd option (very tiny curve upwards), but I think that would reflect in the voltage reading on HWInfo64 if I'm not mistaken. Deviation is 103-107%, motherboard is a B550 Tomahawk.
  3. I've given up after trying everything I could to lower the temperatures on my 5600x. I have 4 140mm fans on the radiator, I switched from an NH-D15 to a Kraken X63 to a Corsair H115i, bought Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, reseated the CPU/repasted countless times and even swapped the 5600x with my brother's 5600x. At stock settings, it's around 46-55c idle, and 78 degrees under load. At an OC to 4.6GHz, it reaches around 85 degrees. 4.7GHz hits 91 degrees. I have tried countless things to fix it, and these are extremely high end coolers cooling a very low powered chip, the temperatures
  4. Oh my bad, I didn't read the details on the bottom. Seemed a bit too good to be true lol. Thanks for your help!
  5. It's regularly ~$120 CAD ($90 USD), but considering I was waiting for the 3080 for like 4 months, I was able to wait for all PC component sales for the parts I wanted. I was under the assumption that a 220w gigantic air cooler would cool much better than a 260mm AIO. I was watching GN's video about AIO vs air cooling, and at 150 watts, it said the NH-D15 was at 47 degrees.... I assumed if it could cool a 150w CPU to 47.5 degrees, my 95 watt OC would be significantly colder (or around the same temperature AT LEAST), but I have no clue what went wrong. He also cooled a 39
  6. That's very true, thank you for the information! I'd actually assume water would be better than heatpipes for this kind of scenario too, but the cooler was like $65 USD so an AIO would be out of budget anyways (they are all more expensive in Canada).
  7. I was giving that overclock as a random example, I couldn't possibly use it as it's at 100 degrees and shutting down, I just thought it might be useful for someone to know it was at 100 degrees. I use 1.25v @ 4.3GHz and it's at 83 degrees now, is this a reasonable number or is it too high for my system? This OC is 91w.
  8. Maybe you're right, that actually sucks. No idea why people would buy these kinds of coolers if they make literally no difference for Zen 2, thanks for your help.
  9. I've remounted like 4 times now, could the backplate be the issue or something? I tried screwing the mounting bracket down as much as it can possibly go, and I've repasted 4 times, each after remounting the cooler. Also, I found a 3950x running at 71 degrees on the same NH-D15, mine is on open air so it should have an advantage? 85 degrees for a much lower tier CPU must mean I am doing something wrong, right?
  10. I just built a new PC with an NH-D15 (both 140mm fans attached) and a 3600XT. It reaches 95 watts through AMD's "precision boost overdrive" on Ryzen Master, but temperatures reach around 81-85 degrees, even with both fans on absolutely max speed. Manual 1.33v OC at 4.5GHz hits 100 degrees, I couldn't check the watts used in time. It might also help to note that the temperature difference between fans at 100% and fans at 20% is literally nothing, the heatsink fins are barely warm, and the idle temperature is 40 degrees. I am using AIDA64 Extreme Edition, Cinebench is about 8 degrees
  11. I have a computer that wouldn’t post no matter what I did, and after some troubleshooting, I realized it displayed just fine on another monitor but not my main one. I’ve tried swapping cables, ports etc. and both screens are using the exact same cable interchanged. I am pretty sure this issue has happened more than once with another computer, but I didn’t have the chance to test it with a second monitor. The main monitor that the computer won’t boot/display to is a Sceptre 165hz e258b-1658a, and the one it boots to is a Samsung TSS-23WB LED I’ve tried a Quadro 410, an H
  12. Lots of thermal pastes on amazon/newegg in my area aren't available or are very expensive, do you think the Noctua NT-H1 would do the trick? It's non-conductive on their website and is at a reasonable price.
  13. I don't have any thermal paste on-hand right now but I'll order some asap, hopefully with minimal shipping delays. Thanks!
  14. I've cleaned out the card completely, it didn't help as it was relatively clean already. I also tried lowering the core voltage % and power limit on afterburner with barely any difference