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asheenlevrai

Member
  • Content Count

    109
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About asheenlevrai

  • Title
    Member

System

  • CPU
    9900k
  • Motherboard
    Asus z390-a
  • RAM
    16gb
  • GPU
    rx 590
  • Case
    cooltek x5
  • Storage
    500GB Samsung 970 Evo
  • PSU
    cannot remember
  • Display(s)
    Philips BDM4350
  • Cooling
    AIO
  • Keyboard
    no-name
  • Mouse
    no-name
  • Sound
    embeded (monitor speakers)
  • Operating System
    Win10

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  1. UPDATE: I had 2 units of this monitor. I bought them together a few years ago. Now the 2nd unit stopped working as well and show exactly the same symptoms. They died 2 weeks apart from each other. this is very unlikely, isn't it? I wonder if there is something to be done about these failures. maybe the hardware can be recovered somehow. Any suggestion is welcome. Best, -a-
  2. That's what I was afraid of. Bummer... I wish I had any electronics skills Thanks again for replying. Best, -a-
  3. Hi I use an apple Thunderbolt display on a PC running Windows 10 and everything works well except for the built-in camera. Apparently no driver for "FaceTime HD Camera (display)". I tried downloading the 2015 driver from Apple (exe file) but it won't run on Windows 10 (error message saying that the update is not designed for this platform or something like that). Does anyone know how to fix this (if this can be achieved) or if it's a lost cause? Thank you very much in advance for your help. Best, -a-
  4. Thanks Yes I tried. Actually, I get the same problem when the monitor is hooked up to nothing. I would expect the "no signal" or "no input" message or something but again when I press the power button the power led blinks once and then nothing. I believe the display is OFF (not ON but displaying a black screen)
  5. EDIT: see post of July 29th. A 2nd unit of this model "died" 2 weeks later... Hi everyone I have a 28'' 4K AOC monitor that causes problems now. It remains black (not recognized in windows). when I press the power button, the LED blinks once and then nothing. I changed the power cord and tried a different power outlet but the problem remains. I suspect the PSU is dead. Is there anything worth trying before I throw it out? It's a shame since it's a relatively nice monitor. Thank you very much in advance for your help. Best, -a-
  6. Cpuid doesn't seem to offer something like what I need
  7. Thanks. I tried perfmon in the past but it was mostly unreliable (would stop unexpectedly and wouldn't startup automatically at boot although I set it up to). I'll look into cpuid. Other 3rd party recommendations are welcome. thanks -a-
  8. Thanks Actually I posted after watching several videos like these (especially the 1st one) and came up with the workaround of jump-starting the psu (on the wire side of the 24pins connector). I'm still looking for a more elegant / permanent fix though.
  9. Hello my Synology DS1815+ won't turn on anymore. I thought it was the PSU so I got a replacement, but the problem remains the same. However, if I jump-start the PSU (not the motherboard) by shorting pins 3 and 4 (black and green wires, using a paperclip) on the PSU->MB power connector (is it an ATX 24 pins connector?) while it is connected to the MB (I do this on the "external side of the connector, obviously since the internal side is connected to the MB), then the DS1815+ turns ON and behaves normally. I thought maybe the front panel (power button) is defective. I didn't try to jump-start the motherboard since I don't know which pins correspond to PWR_SW. I tried to power ON the DS1815+ using the front panel from a different unit that I could borrow (DS1819+) and that seems to be identical, however, the DS1815+ won't turn ON either. I guess the problem comes from the MB, right? Any other idea? What sucks with my current paperclip fix is that I cannot turn OFF the DS1815+ without removing the paperclip. I can reboot it, though. I'd be very happy if I could find a more elegant permanent fix... Maybe shorting pins 3 and 4 but with a switch (a power button) or something... All suggestions and ideas are most welcome. Thank you very much in advance for your feedback. Best, -a-
  10. Thanks Unfortunately it's too late. I went with the 50 incher since it has androidTV and I read online that androidTV benefit from the very large Google play store app repertoire (the lack of apps on webOS was a turn down for me). However, I'm very disappointed since the app store on androidTv has very few app compared to the regular Google Play store. I can stil sideload apps (with APK) but they made sure this is a PITA to achieve... Well, I guess we can't have nice things... Best, -a-
  11. Hi In DSM (Synology OS) there is a tool that I find very convenient. The NAS will automatically monitor and log resources usage (CPU, RAM, disk space, network, ...). This is done automatically and it doesn't require to manually launch anything upon reboot, for instance. What is really useful to me is that I can easily have an overview of what CPU/RAM usage looked like in the past 24h / week / month or even year. Very useful to determine if (and how frequently) resources have become a limiting factor. Now I wonder if there was such a tool (easy to use, automatically always running in the background, basically fault proof) that would allow me to obtain the same information on either Windows10 or macOS (or both). Thank you very much in advance for your help. Best, -a-
  12. Hi What is your favorite OS among these 2? Why? Tx -a-
  13. Yeah that was my first intention. Now I'm wondering about the OS. That's why I posted here.
  14. Hi I need to purchase a "cheap" TV for my living room and I hesitate between these 2 models that are priced very closely in my region: - Sharp 50BL2EA - Sharp 55BJ2E As the name indicate, the 1st one is 50" while the 2nd is 55". The major difference is the OS. The 50" is AndroidTV while the 55" is SHARP AQUOS NET+ I have zero experience with any of these but my best guess is that AndroidTV would be nicer... Or is it? Let me know what you think. I was frustrated with the old WebOS on my older LG TV because of the lack of updates and the sometimes unintuitive settings structure. The 50" supports HLG but I guess this is not going to be relevant for me since I watch almost no broadcast TV (mostly online content of from my Synology NAS) Other than that, I couldn't find any major differences. one has 3 USB ports, the other 2 plus 1 micro USB port. I believe the 50" one as 1 more HDMI port (4 vs 3)... Let me know if I missed something. Please let me know which one you would recommend. Thanks a lot for your help. Best, -a-
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