chawndi

So recently I picked up a RODE NTA-1 And a behringer UMC22 to pair it with. Out the box it worked great and I've loved it, made some adjustments to quality and so forth. I decided to change the audio quality to 2 channel, 16 bit 48000hz, dvd quality. It was originally on one channel. When I change it to 2 instead of 1, when I play back anything or record anything the audio only comes from one side of my ear, yet for people on discord per say, hear it from both. Is this something on my end I'd need to adjust so my microphone will produce audio to both sides of the headphones if played back from a recording, e.g shadowplay, audacity? Edit: Or is this something I don't necessarily need to worry about and doesn't make much of a noticeable difference?

Tried it on HDMI and so on and it persisted to continue.

We did it and seems like nothing changed besides the screen tearing gone. The extreme motion blur or whatever it is is still here.

Yeah, does it the same out of game too.

This is what the monitor looks like whilst moving left to right ingame. This never happened on my other monitor (BenQ XL2411Z) As you can see, the motion blur issue and even some screen tearing.

I got my new monitor today, an AOC 24G2U. I have an issue with whenever I play games it has an intense motion blur I can't get rid of (this being from the monitor im assuming it's from the low input lag mode built in) If it's not the low input lag mode, Does anyone know a fix around this? Specs; i7 9700K GTX 980ti 32gb gskill trident z any help is appreciated :)

Tried it and doesn't show.

Have not yet, will look into doing it if I can dig around and find a USB. I'll try that now.

Hi, I have recently overclocked my 9700K to 4.7GHz and have been super stable, and today I wanted to push it a little bit more for a bit extra juice out of it, and went to 4.9GHz, on the 4.7 OC I went with auto voltage and has worked well since, and when trying to do it on 4.9GHz, when re booting it appeared I had no connection to the internet somehow. I reset the CMOS as that was a common fix with this after overclocking but it just didn't seem to work still. Specs: Intel i7 9700K, 16GB Corsair LPX DDR4 Ram, MSI GTX 980Ti, ASRock Z390 Steel Legend If any quick helpers could help with this would be amazing! UPDATE: FIXED

Gonna try loosening the cooler and running the pc and maybe that might help it. I'll try it out later and keep you all updated about it. Thankyou for the help.

Hi! Me again. Since my last cooler issue I have since gotten a new one and the clicking noises have gone! But ah! A new problem has arose, I got to installing my 212 Evo yesterday and upon restarting my pc It wouldn't display to my monitors. My setup is: ASUS Z97-K Intel i5 4460 @3.2 Hyper X Beast DDR3 1600Mhz GTX 1060 STRIX 6GB EVGA 650 SUPERNOVA 80+GOLD Kingston 120GB SSD Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO EDIT*: I just tried to boot with different slots and came to find it would only boot on A2/B2 slots, yet in A1/B1 it would send it into a continuous loop cycle and not show any output to the monitors, XMP is enabled on the right profile too. So, once installing it wouldn't display to the monitors. I googled around and tried some different things. My pc will boot to bios/windows on one stick of ram and give me a prescreen saying "OVERCLOCKING FAILED, PRESS F1 TO CONTINUE or enter bios something like that" This happens with both sticks, and they all each work independently in every slot that they're put in and started in. I tried them in 1/3 and 2/4 and it would either boot and no display or put itself into a constant loop cycle. I re installed the cpu for an attempt to fix but nothing really came out of it. I re installed the gpu too. I also re installed all the power cables routing from the PSU to the motherboard. If anyone else maybe has some fixes please help me Thanks, Chawndi.

Did this but it just persisted to be louder and louder, gonna try one more thing today and if that doesnt work then I'll contact the support. Would I need to send in my current H75 or would I be able to get a replacement if so? I don't have any sort of boxes/receipts anywhere I don't think, so I don't know what I could do.

I just realised as I heard this notification, I meant pump not fans. If I were to get one replaced what would I need to provide? Thanks @Corsair Nick

Put it onto DC Mode 100% and the motherboard didn't really label anywhere the amount of volts the fans were getting. Going to retry in the morning and set the pc on its side for a few hours and shake the rad too to see if that clears any bubbles alongside it being on its side, if it's no use I'll create a ticket as last resort.

Not yet, as I need to get the part number etc from the Cooler itself and I haven't taken it apart yet to do so.

The problem still persists with it rattling after shaking and letting it sit on its side unfortunately I'll try a couple more things tomorrow maybe, but otherwise I think the pump is gone maybe.

Turned it on its side, took the cooler off and shook it, turned it on and it rattled like hell, kept shaking it whilst it was on until it shutup, let it sit for 20 ish minutes to flow, stood it back up on its feet and it was quiet again. If this now works, I'll be over the moon.

I'll give that a try and see how it performs.

My temps remain fine, it's just that the cooler gets super noisy as time goes on.

Alright, If there's no way they can help with replacing I may aswell switch to a simple 212 Evo until I buy the new gen set of Intel processors anyway But hope there's a fix to it somehow.

I think maybe 4 close to 5. Don't have the receipt nor box for it anymore.

Can feel some sort of clicking ish, in about 3 hours of uptime in total the clicking is horrendously fast and loud.

GPU is fine, have tested it without the gpu.

Update: It's been since I last posted and the clicking noises have returned, would this maybe stop after time as the pipes are on the bottom?

Just flipped the rad and put the pipes to the bottom, will update if anything happens or if the same thing happens again Thankyou