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Ishit Singh

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  • Posts

    155
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System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 5 2600x
  • Motherboard
    MSI B450 Carbon Pro AC
  • RAM
    Corsair VENGEANCE LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15
  • GPU
    Rtx 2080
  • Case
    NZXT H500
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 pro NVME
  • Cooling
    MasterLiquid ML120L RGB
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home

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Ishit Singh's Achievements

  1. Nope as far as I know there's no store around me that provide that service. You either buy the product or leave, there's no option to test a produce and see if you are comfortable using it.
  2. True, it's all about trial and error and that's why i'm thinking about giving HyperX Pulsefire Haste or any other ultralight mouse a try because I never get to experience ultralight mice and if I don't like it i'll just replace it and buy Razer Basilisk v3.
  3. Yup same story. Model O price is 9,499 rs which is almost 130$
  4. Sadly Glorious Model D is overpriced where I live, it's 130$ which is way over my budget.
  5. For almost 2 years I've been just blowing air under G502 switches in order to temporary fix it's infamous double click issue while playing FPS games and I finally can't take it anymore. I really want to get a mouse which isn't Logitech because of there use of this terrible switch and after hearing next G502X will be using the same switch I finally give up any hope I had for this company. The dimensions of my hands are 19cm/7.5 inch length and 10cm/ 3.9 inch width. I use fingertip grip while playing FPS and while doing work or playing MOBA I prefer using palm grip, sometimes when i'm tired I use palm grip for FPS as well. I've only used mouse with thumb ledges my entire life but I'm down to use a mouse without one if it will improve my aim. I was leaning towards buying Razer Basilisk v3 because of how similar it is to G502 but then some people recommended me to get HyperX Pulsefire Haste instead since I play FPS game with fingertip grip and this mouse is made specifically for that grip in mind but because I've been using a brick my entire life i'm not quite sure if i'll be able to adapt and transition my aim to an ultralight mouse. I'll be glad to hear you guys opinion and recommendation.
  6. Sadly there are no ISP in my area which provides no FUP unlimited 300mbps up/down and this ISP has fiber monopoly in this area as well so even if I want to switch to different ISP I can't.
  7. True if it were just +10 or 20ms ping I would've thought its just weather but 400ms ping right after they got there new server doesn't seem like any whether issue. Well I guess I have to pay extra just to play online games now...
  8. I live in India so there aren't many India dedicated servers so I mostly have to connect to EUW or Singapore in order to play games. Ever since my ISP switched to there new server this week my EUW ping has almost tripled, it used to be 150ms at League of Legends but now it's at 400ms. I have to use external services like Exitlag nowadays in order to bring my ping back to 150ms so this issue must be because of bad server routing at there end. I recently talked with my ISP and they were useless, they kept telling me to check my ping on there local server at New Delhi, they completely ignored the fact that I've been getting high ping not on there server but at EUW servers. Then they kept telling me that "Ping on external servers always fluctuate" over and over ignoring the fact that the ping used to be 150-170 not 400ms. I then said "It wasn't used to be 400ms in past 3 years, it used to be 150ms and I now need to use a VPN service in order to revert my ping back to how it used to be" after reading that I use VPN they kept telling me we do not support the use of VPN since it doesn't use our own servers and left the chat. They were extremely ignorant and the fact that they just left the chat without any resolution just because I mentioned "VPN" was annoying. What should I do to convince them to fix there server routing or just revert back to there old server?
  9. I just did some benchmark of my Samsung 860 EVO SSD and found out that my random write are much slower compare to other 860 EVO benchmark I've seen. Is it because of my SATA cable? It was a struggle installing SATA cable on my motherboard because of how the case I have is designed. Is it slow because I broke something on the motherboard while installing the SATA cable in the process? Can something on the motherboard be easily broken without even noticing like bent pins or something? Also can data even transfer with broken or bent pins on a motherboard? The SATA cable I have came with the case. My case is NZXT H500. My SSD Benchmark- The Benchmark I saw-
  10. I was worried because I thought anything that makes an electrical current flow could be damage if it's not disconnected properly
  11. As the title says, I removed 2 pin connector of my IEM after noticing that I connected left side to right iem and right to left. I removed 2 pin connector of my IEM without noticing they were still connected to my laptop. I'm afraid that I might've damaged them because they were connected to a power source (Laptop 3.5mm jack) My IEM is TRN BA5
  12. I just experienced BSOD (blue screen of death) while running league. League client had widespread issue of users not being able to login yesterday but they fixed that issue after a hour or 2. That same issue happened to me today and after restarting client multiple times it later caused bsod. After restarting my PC, both league client fixed itself and I never got BSOD while running league. Should i be worried? What caused BSOD? This is what bluescreenviewer says MiniDMP.zip Edit- Here's Kernel dump as well
  13. Sorry for late reply! I'm upgrading my current monitor is because I've been getting strange horizontal bars on my current monitor
  14. I'm currently really confused which monitor should I go with. I've been using 27 inch 1080p for like a year and half now and 81PPI doesn't bother me at all, I never seen any visible pixels unless I get extremely close to my monitor and getting 24 inch monitor feels like a downgrade to me. The reason why i'm confused is because many people say 1080p on 27 inch monitor looks ugly but since I never experienced 27 inch 1440p myself I can't tell any difference and why i'm hesitating into getting 27 inch 1440p is because not every game can run at above 60FPS on max settings at that resolution yet and I'm the guy who hate it when games run under 60FPS. So here's my question, how terrible does 1080p resolution looks on 1440p monitor compared to 27 inch 1080p monitor? Should I buy 1440p monitor and run it on 1080p or just get 1080p monitor? These are the monitor that I think I might buy because i'm into graphic designing as well and they good good response time and decent colour accuracy. LG27GL850 or LG27GL750
  15. These horizontal bar appear when I enable Freesync ultimate in monitor OSD and Adaptive sync in Nvidia Control Panel or when there's a voltage fluctuation. Case-1 I always get horizontal bar when I boot my PC or switch back and forth from desktop to a full screen application whenever Freesync Ultimate and Adaptive sync are running. These bar also appear when there's voltage fluctuation Case-2 When Freesync and adaptive sync are disabled I don't get horizontal bar when booting my PC or switching to fullscreen application but I get those horizontal bars when there's a voltage fluctuation. Voltage fluctuation happens rarely but when it does these horizontal bar always appear for half a second. So horizontal bar appear when Freesync and adaptive sync are enabled and also when there's voltage fluctuation in Case-1 but in Case-2 these horizontal bar appear only when there's voltage fluctuation. I want to know whether it's my GPU which is causing these bar to appear or is it my Monitor. When I was trying to recreate horizontal bars in order to take pictures of them, I had to switch from desktop to fullscreen application multiple times which later causes this strange GPU artifact to appear. This artifact appeared right when my entire monitor colour went red for a split second. My GPU is Zotac RTX2080 (Model no. ZT-T20800G-10P) My Monitor is Samsung LC27F591FDWXXL My Display Port is Vesa Certified Club3D CAC-2068
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