Hawick

Hi. Thanks for replying. I have this graphics card: ASUS DUAL-RTX2060-A6G-EVO GEFORCE RTX 2060 6GB GDDR6 ADVANCED EVO PCIE I don't know what DVI it is. About the title, yea I think I was wrong. It's a cable that has DisplayPort (hooks up to the monitor) and then on the other end of the cable there's a DVI port, which is meant to be connected to the video card. Here:

Are there any major disadvantages of this type of cable? (the cable itself has a DisplayPort port that connects to the monitor and a DVI port that connects to the video card) I'm thinking input lag (response time), screen tearing, refresh rate - does it worsen any of these (compared to a regular displayport) Thank you.

Well, I've been using Windows 10 on my new pc ever since I made this forum thread and literally the only driver I manually installed was NVIDIA Driver for RTX2060. That's all I did. Everything is plug & play, (for example Xbox one wireless usb adapter, controller, etc) I don't have to do anything. I haven't run into any issues as of yet, everything's working just fine.

Okay so unless I experience any issues I should just skip installing drivers, except for the graphics card. Thanks for the reply.

Okay, so I just got my new PC and I received a DVD with the chipset drivers on it. Back in the day I used to download and install drivers from the motherboard's official website but do I really need to do it in 2020? I mean I have Windows 10. Do I need to install any driver from the DVD (or the website) separately? Windows 10 kinda does all that automatically, doesn't it? What if I manually install drivers anyway? Will it overwrite them? Will it causes issues? Thank you!

Thanks for the suggestions. I agree with the PSU. I might change that. I also agree with the CPU. I think a Ryzen 5 3600 is a better deal overall, you're right. Honestly I'd buy AMD video cards but ShadowPlay is just so much superior to AMD's Relive that I can't really choose anything else but Nvidia. I dislike AMD Relive so I'd have to buy a capture card if I go with the AMD graphics card. As for the mobo, I need built-in WiFi for when I do not use an ethernet cable, I need Bluetooth for my wireless xbox controller and I don't want to buy a USB bluetooth adapter because I will need all the ports for other things, I also need RAID, which might come in handy one day. It also has 2x M.2 SSD slot w/ heatsink, supports 7.1 surround and I have a 7.1 surround speaker system in my room. It basically suits all my needs. I heard it has great VRM cooling, too.

Budapest / Hungary, $850. Suggestions are more than welcome!

I checked the motherboard's official manufacturer website and it says "3000Mhz(OC)" ram are supported. On the website it also says "Ryzen 3000 Desktop Ready". Will my Ryzen 5 2600 work without issues? The shop I'm buying from will update BIOS on this board. Could you tell me if everything is gonna work flawlessly in this build? MOBO: ASUS ROG STRIX B450-E GAMING CPU: AMD RYZEN 5 2600 3.40GHZ AM4 BOX WITH "WRAITH STEAL" COOLER(YD2600BBAFBOX) RAM: G.SKILL 16GB AEGIS DDR4 3000MHZ CL16 KIT F4-3000C16D-16GISB (2X8 DUAL CHANNEL) GRAPHICS CARD: ASUS DUAL-RTX2060-A6G-EVO GeForce RTX 2060 6GB GDDR6 Advanced EVO PCI-E CASE: DEEPCOOL D-SHIELD V2 PSU: CHIEFTEC GPS-700A8 700

So you guys consistently say that B450 is better, I'll definitely scope it out, thanks for the suggestion. @dizmo In Hungary, the Ryzen 5 2600 is the cheapest option I'll also look for a Bronze 80+ PSU then. Wonder if 500 watts will cut it?

Budget (including currency): 850 USD Country: Hungary Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming Hello. First off, please tell me if this build is any good: 1.) ASUS PRIME A320M-K 2.) AMD RYZEN 5 2600 3.40GHZ AM4 BOX WITH "WRAITH STEALTH COOLER" YD2600BBAFBOX 3.) G.SKILL 16GB AEGIS DDR4 3000MHZ CL16 KIT F4-3000C16D-16GISB (2X8) 4.) ASUS DUAL-RTX2060-A6G-EVO GEFORCE RTX 2060 6GB GDDR6 ADVANCED EVO PCIE 5.) WD BLUE 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM 64MB SATA 3 WD10EZEX 6.) SAMSUNG 250GB 970 EVO PLUS M.2 PCIE M.2 2280 MZ-V7S250BW 7.) DEEPCOOL D-SHIELD V2 8.) CHIEFTEC GPS-700A8 700W I kind of tried to analyze my own build here. What's your take on this? Could you correct me if I'm wrong? 1.) As for the motherboard, I was told if I'm not planning to OC, paired with a Ryzen 5 2600 or 3600, the VRM's will be at ok temps. I tried to save money here. 2.) The CPU is quite decent I assume, for its price of course. I'm not planning to overclock at all (this board prevents me from doing it anyway so uh, that's that). 3.) About the RAM, I've only seen positive reviews about this particular kit. CL16 is pretty standard I'd say. 3000Mhz is also decent I think. 4.) The video card is a beast (for this particular build and price - there might be a slight bottleneck if paired up with a R5 2600 but I'd say it's ok-ish?) 5.) WD Blue 1TB because I can't afford a better and faster HDD. 6.) This M.2 SSD is pretty darn good. Nothing else to say about it. I want a very fast and reliable M.2 SSD. 7.) This is a basic case, I like the design of it and two extra fans can be mounted on top. I tried to save money on here, too. It's cheap but it's good. 8.) The PSU is kinda whack but I simply cannot afford a better one. After all this I still think the motherboard is kinda off. Could you recommend something else within a similar price range? Something that has better VRM cooling and has more features. I'm thinking AsRock or MSI? Thanks for reading.

Recommend a good 8 core i7 cpu then?

Can you recommend a very good gaming motherboard that can work with i7 9700K?

Would you recommend this board? Have you had any experiences with this board? Is it great? Are there significantly better boards out there for the same price? Also I'd like to use an i7-6700K or i7-7700K or i7-9700K. LGA socket is 1151 so it should be cool.

Yeah. I've already been screwed over with used parts.

My current PC has just died. I need a new PC urgently. I currently have like $500 budget. That's all I've got. Later I'll have more but as of right now this is it. I'll save up for a good video card and 64GB ram later. Now I only need a motherboard, a cpu and a power supply. 3 components. But I want it to be up to date and really good - if that is possible at all with $500 budget, lol. Budget: $500 I already have: - Case - Blu-Ray Drive - Samsung 500GB SATA3 SSD - HDD - Windows 10 x64 - A lame video card that I can use temporarily until I buy a new one. What I need: 1.) A dope-ass motherboard that supports: - DDR4 ram with 3000Mhz speed support and dual channel but preferably quad channel setup - 64GB ram max - some great built-in audio chip such as the "Gigabyte Z97 Gaming 7". It has on-board Sound Blaster chip. I need something like that. - M.2 SSD - Gigabit Ethernet - Windows 10 OS - UEFI - Built-in WIFI (this one isn't important, the rest are, tho) 2.) A great i7 mid-range CPU (It can also be an i7 equivalent AMD but I'd prefer Intel please) that supports: - 64GB RAM (3000Mhz speed should be supported) - Hyperthreading - x64 Windows 10 OS 3.) A reliable MODULAR powersupply 500W+. That's all the components I need. I don't need RAM as of yet. I'll just buy 1 ram stick to start off with but RAM and the rest of the components aren't important now. Thank you very much.

Thx for the replies.

Two consoles I cannot decide between: XBOX360E and XBOX360S (Slim) First off I already own a lot of consoles and I like them all: -- PS3, PS4, XBOX ONE The only thing I'm missing is an XBOX360. I'm not sure which one to buy. I know in terms of performance they're the same. I also know the only reason Microsoft released the "E" model is purely because of money. However, it's stil a different set of hardware, so with that being said: 1.) Which one is less likely to get RRoD (Red Ring of Death)? 2.) Which one runs cooler (both the console and the power brick)? 3.) Which power brick is more robust - which one lasts longer (the one that comes with the "S" model or the one with the "E")? 4.) Which one is less noisy? (It's important to me because I remember using PS3 Slim and it's kind of quiet except for the Blu-ray drive. When it reads the disc it sounds like a goddamn printer and it's very annoying.) 5.) Can I record games through HDMI (w/ capture cards) without being forced to use a splitter to bypass HDCP? Thank you in advance.

Hello everybody, I'd like to record my PS3 games but I can't decide between AverMedia Game Capture HD II and Elgato Game Capture HD60S. YouTube video quality is the most important aspect for me. I want a nice sharp and crisp image even during lots of motion such as while driving in a car - let's say in GTA V. Videos tend to get very pixelated during motion and I'd like to know which one handles this better: the above mentioned avermedia or the elgato device? Pros & Cons of the AverMedia Game Capture HD II) Pros - has component cable port (so HDMI splitter isn't necessary) - does not require a PC and therefore no annoying softwares have to be installed in order for it to work - has built-in video editor, which is kind of whack but I could get away with that - much cheaper than the Elgato one (about 100~120 USD) Cons - can record at 30 fps max (which is bad because I know for a fact that even if the game you're trying to record is 30 fps it is still beneficial to record at 60 fps because it forces YouTube to display your video at a higher bit rate) - can't live stream (not really important as I don't live stream) - no flashback feature Pros & Cons of Elgato Game Capture HD60S Pros - can record at 60 fps (possibly meaning higher max bit rate) - can live stream (not really important as I don't live stream) - has a so-called "Flashback" recording feature, which means that you can just press a button and it'll record the last X minutes of your gameplay regardless Cons - requires a laptop or PC with Windows 8+ (I heard only is it compatible with Windows 10) - does not have component port and that kind of requires that I buy a HDMI splitter; not to mention it also has to bypass HDCP and not all splitters can do that so it could cause a major headache - much more expensive compared to the AverMedia one (somewhere between 200~220 USD) The only thing I have no information about is the quality of the actual recorded footage (I mean the quality once it's uploaded to YouTube, because that's the only thing that matters to me - I don't care about the raw file's quality!) I could save up for the Elgato if I really wanted to but...is it worth it? If it has noticeably less pixelation on YouTube (compared to the AverMedia counterpart) then I'd say it's worth it. Could you give me your opinion? Thanks!

Because I don't like Windows 10 and chances are, I'll never like it. When Windows 10 will be the last working OS that's left, I'll switch to Linux and I'll use Wine to emulate Windows games or I'll simply stop playing PC games. Windows 10 is utter garbage (that's my own personal opinion, don't feel attacked please) and therefore I'll avoid using it.

Thank you.

I wanna install Windows 7 on my rig. My Motherboard: GIGABYTE Z97X Gaming 7 Rev 1.0 I was just downloading the drivers from the original manufacturer page and I came across this file right here: marvell preinstall driver It's some SATA controller stuff that has to be loaded before Windows 7 Installation. When I checked these files, I saw two folders in it: - amd64 - i386 My CPU is x64 and I'm gonna install x64 version of Windows 7 ofc. Since I know x86 means 32 bit I'm guessing the "i386" is the 32 bit folder and the other one is 64 bit and I need the 64 bit one. But why does it say "AMD64"? I don't have any AMD components in my PC. I only got Intel and NVIDIA. My cpu is Intel i5-4460. Can anyone help? Should I install this thing?

I do not have the code anymore just the .obj files. I was wondering if there's a way to load those .obj files from Visual Studio and create executable, since the compiler's job is to create .obj then .exe - I think. I might be wrong.

I only got .obj files (and .sbr). Is it possible to create executable file from this? As far as I know object-oriented programming works in such a manner that it intially creates .obj files (if the source code does not contain erors) and then it creates .exe from those .obj files. Thanks.

I have this smart TV (pretty old): Samsung UE32EH5300W It's 1920x1080@60/50Hz and I'd like to use it as PC monitor as an alternative until I get a normal PC monitor. When I plugged it into my PC (HDMI) the whole screen was not properly aligned, like 10% of the screen was somehow not shown because it was under the bezel or something. How do I fix this? Also I don't play online games where reaction times matter so higher than normal input lag isn't much of a concern. I'm used to high input lag because I use this TV with my PS4.

Well that Ryzen build that @LinusTechTipsFanFromDarlo has posted looks pretty solid. I know my build is shit.