bob3002

It really shouldn't have issues with generic bluetooth, but as always wireless can be finicky. If it does you can use a cable until you can get a better bluetooth dongle or the official wireless dongle (which uses 2.4 Ghz radio instead of BT and thus works with old and new controllers) Xbox controllers use xinput, which is supported in most modern games. For legacy games, Steam has a wrapper built in to emulate classic gamepads/joystick input. I believe the Playstation DS4 also works on Steam but I have no personal experience using that controller on Windows.

Any regular xb1 controller since 2016 has bluetooth. The old elite controller doesn't have bluetooth but the new 'elite 2" does. If you're not sure, look at the top section surrounding the xbox button. If it's the same color/texture as the main body, it's new. If it's the same color as the bumpers, it's old. Also remember that any micro-USB cable (not USB-C) will also allow you to connect the controller to Windows 10, without depleting your batteries.

I bought a starter pack of Panasonic Eneloop rechargeable NiMH batteries about 4 years ago and I've been using them in all my wireless peripherals since (mice and controllers). I highly recommend them as long as your peripherals are fine taking 1.2 V instead of 1.5 V (which is most of them).

Yes, I was referring to the stock config where both 140's were blowing out the case in the top and rear. GN found that it was the best for GPU temperatures at the expense of a few degrees of CPU temperatures (with a tower cooler, not an AIO). Other reviewers have found that adding fans to the front in addition to the stock config doesn't lower temperatures any more. It just recirculates the air inside the case. For an AIO that still might be fine.

As long as you're about to mod the case, why not prop the front and back up with books and give the intake more breathing room too?

The NZXT H500i is... special. Because of the closed front and tiny side holes, front intake fans don't do anything for airflow. The right way to use that case is to have two fans as exhaust in the back of the case so the entire system is under negative pressure. See the GN review for details. If you mount the AIO radiator to the front, it'll be recirculating case air, but it will probably still work adequately because the negative pressure draws sufficient air through the crevices in the case.

I usually manually view my temps in HWMonitor. I know Linus and co. use AIDA64 but that costs money. I'm not qualified to comment on liquid metal, as I've never used it.

If the fans are jumping up and down, doesn't that mean your CPU temperature is doing the same? You could flatten the fan curve so the ramp up/down isn't so dramatic. Definitely check how much the CPU temperatures fluctuate during gaming. You could also remove some PCI slot covers so you get a bit more exhaust. From some quick googling that model appears to have solid slot covers. As a last resort you could also flip your PSU over so the fan is on top. It'll act like a second exhaust fan for your GPU and remove more hot air from your case, which might help your AIO a bit.

What exactly do you mean that your intake fans start screaming? Are you using sleeve bearing fans mounted on the bottom of your case?