HadesCore

Alright I fixed it, I'll say how I did it for future reference if anyone runs into the same issue. As a kind of side note first though; I went back and read the manual again, noticed that the wifi adapter is actually the Intel AC-3168 but windows recognizes it as the 9260 in control panel and device manager. Thought this was a clue but turns out it didn't seem to have anything to do with the issue, just thought that was strange and worth pointing out. Anyway when I was reading the manual I also noticed it points out where the revision number sticker is located on the mobo, its a little white sticker on the bottom left, mine says REV: 1.1 It seems the gigabyte APP center installed the realtek drivers which are the most recent, but only applicable to REV: 1.2 When I was in the adapters properties and I clicked the "roll back drivers" option to revert to the intel drivers it didn't work. So I thought neither of those drivers were gonna work. But turns that intel driver was the correct one, but it only worked when I uninstalled the adapter from the device manager and ticked the box for "remove all driver software for this device" Upon reinstalling it I went to install the intel drivers again but windows already automatically applied those drivers and it was now working. Essentially, make sure your drivers match the revision of your board. and when you find the right drivers, make sure to do a clean install of them and uninstall the device/delete the old drivers. Pretty straight forward fix really, just thought id mention it for the strange things I noticed along the way, such as the wrong model number for the wireless adapter in windows, and the fact that gigabytes app center didn't detect the revision of my board and just installed the most recent drivers regardless.

Bluetooth is working fine, in Control Panel>Network and Internet>Network Connections it lists the Intel Wireless-AC 9260 and says Wi-Fi enabled, but when I try to connect it doesn't list any available networks. I've tried all the obvious stuff, windows is up to date, turned it off completely unplugged and let it sit unplugged (that seems to fix intermittent Bluetooth issues), unplugged the antenna and tried it with the leads swapped around. I've tried using the provided Realtek drivers and rolled back to intel drivers, neither work. In the Wi-Fi adapters properties under power management I've unticked the box for "allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" I ran the troubleshooter and it says: There might be a problem with the driver for the Wi-Fi adapter . Windows couldn't automatically bind the IP protocol stack to the network adapter. I'm stumped on this one, can anyone help?

Thanks for the help! I used to run an MSI Z390 tomahawk in my i5 9600k build so I can definitely appreciate the performance of an MSI board, but you are right unfortunately this won't fit my needs, since I will need to use a USB expansion card with it, it would end up costing the same price as getting a better board with the usb ports I need already built in. So far it looks like the gigabyte aorus offerings are gonna be my best bet if I want 8 or more USB ports, but they are still a bit above my price range, but I guess I could save money in other areas to pony up for the better board, ahh too many options to consider

Budget (including currency): ~$1000USD Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Mainly for gaming, will be playing AAA titles, some premiere pro editing. Other details I'm switching over from my Razer blade 15 advanced desktop setup which I run a caldigit ts3 plus daisy chaining to a Lenovo thinkpad tb3 docking station, this all powers my two monitors (1080p 144hz/1600x900 75hz) sennheiser gsx1000 Dac, KBM, and external SSDs. I'm planning on swapping out the laptop for a desktop, and most likely getting rid of the tb3 docks as well. I will be keeping my 1TB M.2 main drive and my secondary 1TB M.2 for the build. The first thing I want to cover is my usb situation, I also have an oculus rift with 3 sensors, which adds up to an extra 4 USB ports needed, meaning in total I need a minimum of 8 USB ports. For the sake of simplicity let's assume I'm gonna be running the 10600k for this next part. So is there a really good Mobo out there with 8 USB ports around the $100 mark with 2x M.2 slots? Because I haven't been able to find one, there are some really nice looking ones around $200 but they tend to include a lot of features I have no use for (such as an integrated high end dac, wifi, (although bluetooth would be nice)) it's just a luxury making the price unjustified for me. So in that case if there isn't a Mobo at that price that meets the criteria, would it then be reasonable to just get a USB pcie expansion card? The other possible route I could go is to just get a Mobo with TB3 and keep one of my docks, but I almost certainly won't do that since I've had way too many driver issues with thunderbolt and I'm over it at this point. Especially since I won't need to rely on it so much with a proper desktop pc. The second point is CPU selection, I don't want an R5 3600, I'd rather stick with intel since I'm so used to overclocking on that platform, especially 14nm because I had a i5 9600k build prior to my current set up. That's just my preference, I've recommended the r5 3600 to my friends and I'm building a gaming pc with the 3600 for my cousin because I know it's good, just not for me, but in saying that, if it all comes down to it and there is an amazing Mobo out there only for ryzen that fits all my needs and saves me a lot of money, I'm definitely open to considering the switch. Any suggestions are very much appreciated and if you made it all the way through this post I salute you, I know it's a lot to take it all at once

That's good to know, with that knowledge I'd say it's safe to assume, the adapter is definitely not working correctly and not that I bought the wrong kind of adapter so I might try to see if I can dig up a receipt to return it. I tested both adapters with the same drive and same USB cable as I stated, so it can't be either of them it's definitely the adapter itself.

Thanks for the info, There's no TIM on either enclosure, But as I've stated, I already know the Volans is the problem (That's the blue PCB) the drives themselves are working completely fine, I'm just hoping to find out why the no matter what drive I put into it, the blue PCB is significantly slower and unreliable

Some background info; I own two M.2 NVMe SSD to USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type C Enclosures, they both advertise a 10Gpbs throughput, one is the Simplecom SE503 and the other is the Volans VL-UCM2. (From now on, for time's sake, I'm going to refer to these as the Simplecom and Volans respectively) Generally, in the Simplecom, I have a 256GB NVMe drive that came factory installed in my 2019 Razer blade 15, and a 1TB Crucial P1 NVMe drive in the Volans. Here's the issue; For the past few days, the Volans has been noticeably slower than the Simplecom, transfer speeds feel like first-gen SATA and even slower when it gets hot from sustained reads/writes. On top of that, it would regularly disconnect and reconnect from windows mid transfer causing failures to move game installations and having to start again. So I tested to find the cause of these issues, which brought me to the conclusion that the Volans is the culprit. Here's how I tested the enclosure; I tried the same transfers on the same computer, with the same USB C cable plugged into the same port with the same NVMe drive (Crucial P1) in both the Simplecom and Volans. The Simplecom performed as expected, transferring at full speeds, getting just as hot as the Volans would and only slowing down marginally, if it all. I didn't record exact transfer rate values but regardless, the tests made it obvious that the Volans was the weak link in the chain. (I can't speak confidently as to whether its performed this way all along or only started to recently, as I've owned it for a few months now but only started using it full time in the past few days.) The reason I'm posting this; If someone has the technical skills to, by looking at the photos I've provided in the link below, be able to understand if there are differences between the two enclosure's PCB's that might indicate if the Volans is fundamentally slower and falsely advertised, or if the issue I'm having is software related, even if you'd owned the same model Volans I have and could tell me your experience with it. Any help will be appreciated. Link to each enclosure from where I bought it: Volans https://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Hard-Drives-&-SSDs/Enclosures/76762-VL-UCM2?gclid=CjwKCAiAg9rxBRADEiwAxKDTukKZAczGIfiG5CxBC2jwdlGh8KeBHtG4jo7rBonPg1CmMNdCZThY3BoCI2IQAvD_BwE Simplecom https://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Hard-Drives-&-SSDs/Enclosures/76042-SE503

Thanks for the help guys, ISP's are horribly sneaky and I always knew that they did some shady stuff at the users expense for financial gain but I never realized it would be as frustrating as this!

Thanks guy's I always used to use cloudflare DNS on my main desktop and overlooked changing my DNS when setting up this as my main PC. I've set my DNS to cloudflare's now. Hopefully this fixes the issue. I always changed my DNS to this because of privacy and faster internet speeds, but out of curiosity and closure with this issue, could you explain how having my current DNS set to auto would cause this issue?

Im using a Razer Blade 15 Advanced (early 2019 model) and have a standard rj45 cat6 ethernet cable from my NBN home network router connected to my lenovo thinkpad dock which is also a hub for all my peripherals, connected to my laptop through thunderbolt 3 usb-c. Now when I enable usb debugging for network sharing on my phone and connect my phone to the dock through usb-c to usb-c (which the pc recognizes as a wired internet connection) my internet speeds are noticeably quicker, and I mean in just basic scenarios such as opening and loading webpages and the like. But here's when thing's get tricky, and the reason I'm posting this in a veil of confusion, When I run a standard internet speed test (by Ookla) on multiple different servers, the general result I get is around 45Mbps for both connections with some servers hitting as low as 25Mbps on my mobile connection. But the ping latency value is twice to three times slower on my mobile connection, and from what I understand, the ping is the server response delay in ms. So on my standard home wired connection I get about a 6ms ping, but on my mobile connection I cant get any lower than 15ms ping. Based on these numbers and from what I understand, this would indicate that my wired home internet connection should be faster than my wired mobile internet. But somehow when I open webpages on my wired mobile internet, the pages, or videos, load almost instantly, whereas for my home internet, I find myself having to consistently wait a few seconds at the very least, to sometimes even waiting over a minute and just assuming something is wrong with the webpage then trying to refresh the page to no avail. In sure there are a lot more values to consider when trying to understand how the speed of an internet connection works other than just the network bandwidth and latency, but how do I identify it? and more importantly, how do I fix it? I couple other things probably worth mentioning; I made sure to unplug either internet connection from the dock when I wasn't using it to make sure it was giving me correct data. When I run a speed test on my mobile device itself, I get about 75Mbps and about the same ping. This slowness isn't consistent, majority of the time my home internet connection is completely fine and comparable in speed to my mobile's connection in real world use. I seem to get these spikes intermittently but without any warning or indication to why it's happening even when I try to look for it.

Since I have the blade 15 it has its own proprietary charger, in which case, unless you have the blade stealth, a dock wont charge your blade. Only the stealth blades charge through USB, but it has charging capabilities and from what I understand, they do charge the lenovo thinkpads through the single cord, so I dont see why it wouldn't charge the stealth as well, but I cant make any guarantee's as I haven't tested it myself, I recommend looking into it before you buy it if that's an important feature to you

I ended up going with a lenovo thinkpad usbc dock and it works great, supports 3 monitors just fine

To anyone actually interested for future reference, after applying liquid metal, undervolting, matching the turbo boost short power max to the turbo boost power max, removing all the DPTF and making sure it doesn't come back, a bunch of other general system optimisations such as debloating, customising power plans, registy edits, ect. Im glad to share that i've gained more FPS on battery power to where most games are playable to a more acceptable level. All in all from absolutely everything ive done, (hardware and software tweaks included) I've gained about 20-30FPS which I tested by installing a new SSD with a fresh install, compared to after all the optmisations. I still think theres a bit of potential to be gained as there are some things i've noticed in aida64 that dont make complete sense so I've got more research to do.

mate im not here to prove anything when did this become a debate lol? im just trying to get the most out of my laptop, you're wasting your time trying to convice me that "this is just how it is" i've already made significant improvements with more to come, which were suggested to me by people actually trying to help and not just prove a point. Someone on reddit suggested uninstalling Intel Thermal Framework so im going to look into that now.

lol mine stays at 144hz, im not "salty" the answer was just redundant because as I stated in the original post, im aware that performance drops on battery power, but its dropping more than it should, and thats what im trying to resolve. You're obviously not trying to help though, so go be a smartass on someone elses thread ?