Light034

I want my home server to connect to the VPN so that I can bypass my ISP restrictions, however, when I ping the VPS using the VPN IP (172.27.224.1) with the port 21 or 25565 the connection times out and no data is received in the VPN, but if I ping my home server using from the VPS using the computer IP (172.27.232.4) the connection is successful and I get a response. The command I'm using for pinging my home server is telnet 127.27.232.4 21 and I get the output Trying 172.27.232.4... Connected to 172.27.232.4. Escape character is '^]'. which means that the connection was succesfull, but when I try the same command with the IP 127.27.224.1 I get the output Trying 172.127.224.1... telnet: Unable to connect to remote host: Connection timed out if the port were to be closed I would get : telnet: Unable to connect to remote host: Connection refused and using port checker it tells me the port 21 is closed on my VPS even tho I specified using iptables to open port 21.

Hi, I'm trying to get my home server to be discoverable so that I can use it to store files and do backups while I'm out of home (eg. backing up photos from a week long camping trip remotely), however, I cannot make my home server visible to the extranet because my home network is under a NAT and I share my IP address with other home networks (ISP refuses to give me a dynamic single IP without paying a hefty amount) so the next best thing that I can do is rent a $5 VPS and forward all requests directly to my home server to bypass the port blocking of my ISP. I have succesfully set up OpenVPN on the VPS, but when I try connecting it just times out the connection. The VPS can ping my home server through the FTP port, but when I try pinging the VPS the connection times out, meaning that for some reason my FTP request from my home network to the VPS is getting blocked. Here is some info about my configuration: The VPS is running Ubuntu 20.04 and OpenVPN My home server is running Arch Linux (It's the distro I'm most familiar with) The VPS service provider is Vultr. Using the VPS as my backup server is not a viable option because my home server has 2TB of space and that same amount in a VPS is really really expensive. Here is a diagram of how my network is set up Here is a diagram of how I want to set up the VPS and home server. I have read some of the documents from OpenVPN but most of the info went over my head and I could not find a reliable tutorial online for my specific use case. I think my connections are timing out because the firewall from the VPS is blocking port 21 and other ones, however, I have checked iptables and the VPS is listening to the port and it's supposed to be open, I have also tried setting up a minecraft world but it also times out. Any help is greatly appreciated!!

My ISP doesn't provide any static IP addresses and from what I found, I would need to set up a Dynamic DNS or something similar, but I'm not sure how complicated that would be, my router seems to support DDNS but I would need to look a little more into it

oops, accidentally uploaded my post before finishing writing...

Hi everyone, I want to set my own home server for a small website-gallery to put some photos on, I know this is not ideal to do on a residence network and at home because it simply is not cost effective, but I'm entering university this year into computer engineering and I really want to start setting up servers and learning this kind of stuff. However, there is a small problem to which I gave up looking online, this being that my ISP TOS doesn't allow any kind of self hosted website or service, this being public or private, on their network, this would be no problem if I wanted to host a small website with not a lot of content on a VPS, but I want to set up my website as a gallery showcase of photographs I take and the people who visit the website to download any picture(s) they want as RAW or PNG, this means that I would need a lot of storage if I want to upload all my pictures, since this is a project just for fun and non-profit, having a VPS with huge storage capacity is out of sight. What I was thinking about is setting up a home server with Debian 10 and a 2TB drive, then setting up a front end website on a cheap VPS (debian) and then when a user requests to view or download any image, the request gets send to my home server and then the home server sends back the data to the VPS and then the VPS sends the data to the user. I was thinking of setting a VPN between my home server and the VPS so that my ISP don't see that I'm doing something that breaks their TOS, but I'm not really sure on how to do it, I've looked at some stuff online but nothing specific that would help me with my end goal. Any information sources or leads are greatly appreciated! Also, I plan on licensing all my photos as CC0 and making the website code open source under GLPv3

Sometimes repair shops detect a different issue than the one that is actually happens (just look at apple store genius program), I had a similar issue years ago with my work laptop, every time I picked it up a little to fast or placed it in the table while on it would just crash everything and gave weird funky screens and blue screens, the laptop was from 2014 and it was 2017 at the time so it was fairly old, after inspecting the issue I noticed that the problem was the hard drive (HDD), I installed windows on an external HDD that I had lying around and the issue was gone, later on I replaced the HDD with an SSD, since then I bought a different laptop and just transfused the SSD, but the issue has been forever gone. I don't think that this has something to do with your CPU, here's why: CPU doesn't care about movement, unless the CPU is not mounted correctly there is no way for a CPU to crash when you move the whole PC, since you have Intel the CPU has no pins and the motherboard has the pins, the motherboard pins in the socket are like little springs that even if the CPU is not making a lot of pressure over those it still makes contact properly. Also, a CPU getting fried by the memory speed is very unlikely, if the CPU supports 3000Mhz it will have no problem handling those speeds, and the only thing that could fry the CPU would be the temps that you run it, a wrongly set up overclock or some issue with the power delivery on your motherboard. Some other troubleshooting would be to check if there are any signs of heat damage on the motherboard, sometimes some components heat a lot when they partially fail and they make the motherboard bend or even desolder the components in the motherboard, check if there is any component that might show signs of damage and if you do find one, well, try to fix it or replace the board. Also check your PSU cables, check that everything is plugged correctly all the way in and also check the cables individually to see if for some reason a cable is loose from the connector.

As adm0n mentioned, right now is a horrible time to build a PC, is really hard to find the right components and also since AMD is about to release new CPU's and GPU's its hard to know if the new hardware its gonna bring more performance per dollar. However, here is a list of components I recommend if you want to build you computer right now. Keep in mind that I don't know how the prices for this components are on Denmark right now but here is a build that would be perfect for CS:GO and some other games. CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 Motherboard: Gigabyte B450 Aorus Elite Max ATX RAM: Corsair Vengance Pro 16GB (3200Mhz if you can get it, if not you can go for 3000Mhz) Storage:Samsung 860 EVO 500GB SSD, if you wish you can only get a 225GB SSD for the OS and buy 1TB HDD GPU: AMD RX 580 8GB (of the brand you find cheapest on your country, used RX 580's are really cheap) PSU: Honestly right now power supplies are low on stock and its gonna be hard for you to find one that I would recommend because almost every PSU is gone, just make sure that you choose over 500W, 80+ Gold rating, and Semi-modular or Fully-modular. Corsair makes really good, cheap PSU's. For the case it really depends on your preferences, but I would suggest you the H510 from NZXT, it has a tempered glass panel and the H510i has a fan controller with RGB already installed. And for the keyboard and mouse, again, it depends on what you like. If you want a small keyboard look up for a 60% keyboard, there are a lot of options out there for this size, also for the switches, it really depends on what you like to feel when you type, I'll be following the Cherry MX color line up even though I dislike Cherry MX. Red: Linear, perfect for competitive gaming, not so great for typing long periods of time. You don't get a lot of feedback each key-press other than bottoming out the switch. Blue: Clicky, each key will make your neighbor/roommate a little angrier, kinda good for typing long periods of time, even thought the clickyness can bee tiring after some time because of the force each key-press needs, this depends on manufactures of course. Each key-press you hear a click, good for people with obsessive compulsive disorder. Brown, tactile, this are the hardest switches to get right, some feel linear, some feel clicky, if you find the right brown switch you will be able to type for a long time without feeling like your fingers are falling. This are hard to get right because they are a middle point between tactile and clicky, they are not too loud but you still hear the distinctive sound of mechanical keyboards. And there are much more switches but outside of those, all the others are points in between linear and tactile. Just try to avoid brands like Razer, they make awful switches. Also avoid any keyboard that doesn't say specifically what type of switches it has because it will be most likely a membrane keyboard. Also remember that this is just a recommendation, I suggest you to do research on your own to see what fits more specifically your needs in the near and far future.

Do you already have the peripherals (Monitor, keyboard, mouse) or do you also would like to get suggestions on those?

It might be that you are drawing a lot of power from a single breaker, check if you have other high power things connected in the same line (Fridge, Microwave, Electric stove, Heater, AC, etc). If you have other high power systems on the same line I would suggest you to balance the load around your house, this can be a little tricky specially if you live in an apartment. It is better to have different breakers for each part of the house to prevent overloading a single breaker (hard to do but possible). If you have all the high power stuff connected to a single breaker and you don't know how to separate it into single breakers please don't try it yourself, live voltage is dangerous specially when working in the breaker box. Other thing that you could do is install a breaker, only for your computer and run the cable directly to your computer, again, this is tricky because if you want it to look pretty you almost always need to break a wall or pull hard on cables to make the line go through. I had this issue years ago that every time I turned on my Microwave the breaker would pop, I fixed it by running the microwave on its own breaker along with the AC. Since then I haven't had any issues with the electricity. Again, if you don't know how to do any of the things I mentioned please call an electrician, an electrician will be able to balance the load on your house.

Thank you! I don't know what I changed on the BIOS but it just fixed itself after a restart. I suspect that the issue was that it had internal graphics enabled and somehow that made the CPU to stay at max clock speed, I also changed some other settings on the BIOS from Auto to Enabled so I'm not completely sure what was the issue. In conclusion, updating the BIOS is a nightmare.

It's already on balanced.

Ok so this is a weird thing that's been happening for some days now, the thing is that my CPU for some weird reason always stays at max turbo frequency, this would not be big of a deal if it weren't by the fact that I already have to pay a massive electricity bill just for playing 4-6 hours a day all days, I've looked everywhere in the web to see why this was happening and most of the solutions didn't help. I already booted into safe mode and in safe mode it still keeps at it's max frequency, even in BIOS it shows me that the CPU is stuck at max frequency. I tried enabling all C states on the CPU and disabling them but nothing seems to work, I'm just out of ideas on what could be happening with this. Here is some information regarding my system : CPU: I5-8400 2.8Ghz. 3.8Ghz max turbo GPU: RX 580 8GB RAM: flashy 16GB Corsair modules MB: Gigabyte B360M DS3H (rev. 1.0) BIOS: F15 Also this started happening since I updated my BIOS to F15 (I had F5 before) and for some stupid reason the BIOS had an option turned on by default to install some Gigabyte programs by default, one of them was EasyTune and that program allows to change the CPU settings directly on Windows (Thing that I'm not comfortable of doing). After uninstalling those annoying programs I realized that the frequency got stuck. I don't know what to do at this point, it might be a setting on the BIOS but since I don't have unlocked CPU and MB I'm not able to tweak a lot of things. If anyone has any idea for stupid that it might be please let me know.

Ok, I fixed it, it was the easiest fix I have ever had to do. The problem was the thermal paste, I replaced it with a Thermal Grizzly Kyronaut and the gpu fans going full speed is no more. Thanks for answering my thread Majestic and Mesterial!

I moved the thermal pad to the capacitors but I get the same result, now the temps are a little lower while gaming (52°C max) but the fans still go full speed and it takes them a long time after the load is gone to go to idle speed. Here is another screenshot of the graph and how the fan speed goes up while the temps remain the same. After some mins of load the backplate where the power delivery section is feels a little warm but isn't a lot. I'm thinking of buying another thermal pad and placing it next to the other one so both the capacitors and the mosfets have thermal pads.

The clockspeeds are the same as before. I only touched the heatsink so the VRM should be ok. The only thing I did outside the thermalpaste swap was that I repositioned the thermal pad that was on the power delivery section and placed just in the boxes leaving the capacitors without thermal pad, here is a photo of the pcb of my gpu, in the red box I paced the thermal pad leaving the capacitors without it, I don't know if it was in between before I removed the heatsink. Also I don't know if this capacitors generate a lot of heat.