toasty99

Yeah that's what I ended up doing basically. Still curious what causes this thing, but oh well no longer a problem

I'd do that if there wasn't a stripped screw holding the motherboard in place to this crappy Cyberpowerpc case. It's a flat top screw that's rounded on the top now, I spent an hour trying to get under it with pliers/scissors to try and rotate the standoff up out of the case and had no luck. So, I'm at the point that would require a drill and I'm thinking the chances of drilling into a screw on a motherboard and not killing the board are pretty low.

I already went from the stock bios the prebuilt had installed which was from all the way back in 2019 to the latest bios on MSI's website. Considering the 9700f is newer than the 8600k and 8700, I am thinking that upgrading/downgrading the bios is going to do nothing. And the 9400f/9700f are the same generation so if it was a bios locking out older Gen issues the 9400f at least would work and it doesn't.

Yeah, so it's running the latest bios directly off MSI's website for the consumer z390-a Pro. Flashed it today troubleshooting this issue. So it's absolutely not due to a custom prebuilt vendor bios.

I've got a MSI z390-a pro that is in a cyberpowerpc prebuilt with a 9700f. Somehow, the motherboard is locked so it only works with that CPU. I've tried a 8700, 9400f, and 8600k that are known working. Only the 9700f that came in it will work. I immediately started troubleshooting by downloading the latest bios (it was on a 2019 bios) and updating. After the bios update, I still couldn't get any other CPUs to work. I tried CMOS resetting multiple times before and after bios update. I went into the bios and disabled FPTM, secure boot, anything I could think of that would somehow be doing this. I don't want to use the 9700f in this motherboard because the case the board is in is crap and there's a stripped screw that is holding the board in I spent an hour trying to get out that won't budge without drilling into it which has a good shot of breaking the board entirely. So yeah, I'm beyond frustrated. If anyone has ideas as to how in the heck you get a motherboard that's somehow hardware tied to the CPU to un-tie that's got nothing to do with bios, I'm all ears! There's no way there's a jumper you have to short to remove a CPU lock is there? That sounds really dumb but it's legitimately the only thing left I can think of being a possibility.

This is really terrible advice. An Xeon E5 1660v3 can match a Ryzen 3700x when overclocked. So to say "Xeon's are bad for gaming" is simply wrong. The E5 1650v3 was 6/12, 1660v3 was 8/16, and 1680v3 was 8/16 on the X99 platform and Haswell architecture. Fully overclockable and all pci-e lanes enabled for these chips just like the 5930k/5960x. Not slouches at all today because they can overclock to 4.5ghz, plus have quad channel ddr4. A few years back I tested this myself. Xeon E5 2000 and above chips were never overclockable, and E5 1600v4 chips aren't overclockable making these the ones you generally wanna avoid. The E5 V3 2000 chips do have a turbo boost hack which is somewhat useful though. X79 E5 1650 and 1660 v1 and v2 chips were 6 core 12 threads based off either Sandy or Ivy bridge architecture as the i7 3930k/3960x/4930/4960x were. Again, old these days, but for the time the same performance as the top of the line i7 chips. In their heyday, you could get within spitting distance of first gen Ryzen (they lack AVX2 though which in recent years has become a growing issue) Going to lower end models, the Xeon E3 1230 v1 and above are 4 cores/8 thread Sandy Bridge (like i7 2600), E3 1230v2 and above are Ivy (like i7 3770), E3 1230v3 and above are Haswell (like i7 4770). These are old, but no worse than their i7 non K counterparts! No overclocking, but for extreme budgets they aren't awful. Xeon e3 v4 and v5 are less practical because at this point Intel locked them out of being used on consumer boards, but if you somehow found one and a board they are similar to the 6th and 7th gen core non K series.

I picked up a Mucai X99 P4 and a ZSUS X99-8D4 board off Aliexpress. I've got an Xeon 1660v3 and a 1650v3 so both overclockable chips and do wanna try a bit of an overclock but the default bioses don't have that option. I've got a Ch341a flash programmer, so worst case I can always flash the bios back. Just hoping someone's got some information in English, Miyconst has videos on some boards but not these ones and even then his translations are a tad rough. Heck, it might not even be possible, I did just buy the cheapest boards lol. Figured it was worth asking if anyone had figured it out. I messed with the Mucai board already and flashed a bios I was hoping would work based on it working on similar boards and didn't have luck lol.

This is only a one generation newer chip and you only have a Rtx 3090. Really, this was a completely unnecessary upgrade. Yes, this is a better CPU but you already had a good processor. Sometimes, you need to get off the tech YouTube space where people have infinite money for toys and enjoy what you already have.

ddr3 is incredibly cheap actually. It's just you need to buy it in bulk. It's not worth a seller parting out sticks and testing them unless they are gonna sell them in a lot of 10-20. Selling multiple little packages like a single 4gb or 8gb stick is way more work than big lots of ram. It's priced accordingly. Not to mention getting a single stick of ram shipped with tracking is gonna be most of the sale price.

With ddr4, 2 sticks is always more stable than 4 sticks. Your best bet is to buy 2x16gb ddr4 3200cl16 sticks, you can do this for like $40-50 these days. Then, get rid of your 8gb sticks. Will a 4x8gb configuration work? Yes, but if you mismatch sticks now you need to get it stable. If you buy the same sticks, it probably costs you more than is worth paying AND they might have changed the sticks without changing the sku meaning you'd still be mismatched. Also, what would be the use case for 32gb of ram with a Ryzen 2600?

Actually, they should. You just have to know what you're buying. It's likely a mining card that the die was removed from and placed on a new PCB or a mining GPU that was cleaned up and shipped to you. It's not a new card, but if you go into it like buying a used card it's fine. In fact, I get less dead GPUs from AliExpress than eBay or Facebook marketplace. AliExpress sellers actually put new thermal paste on, clean out dust, and test their crap. With ebay or Facebook marketplace, most cards aren't cleaned at all, dusty, have dried out thermal paste, and if it says "never mined on" that means it was mined on hard. Go ahead and buy 100 GPUs from Aliexpress, 100 from eBay, and 100 locally. I absolutely guarantee your failure rate is the lowest on Aliexpress.

You can certainly upgrade, but it's not like the 11700k is an awful CPU. It was launched around the time of the Rtx 3080ti, you're using a CPU and GPU combo that's pretty balanced. If you upgrade the cpu, you'll get more performance but I don't think it's necessarily worth it unless you have specific examples where it's sluggish or play a lot of simulation heavy games where the X3d parts are so useful. One of those situations where you're going to spend say $400-500 and go "ugh my 3080ti is holding back my 14700k/7800x3d/etc I need to upgrade it now".

They do? That's literally what AMD Ryzen was. AMD was took two CPU chiplets and used the infinity fabric technology (or as Intel called it at the time "glue") to put two separate CPU chiplets together. AMD was able to scale this into AMD Threadripper and AMD Epyc. On the consumer side, you're looking at two chiplets maximum. On Epyc, they have used as much as 12 chiplets. Intel is trying their own version of this. Look up Level1 techs if you want a deep dive into it but the tldr is that Intel is going to try using a tile structure to seperate different parts of the CPU.

First off, ram compatibility is a complex issue. If your ram is not on the QVL list of the motherboard you purchased, then that's user error. XMP/Expo are overclocking, the only way you should expect the rated speeds are if you are using a kit of memory with a motherboard where it is explicitly listed on the QVL. Otherwise, it's just overclocking and your mileage may vary. Now, there are absolutely boards that overclock ram better. EVGA mounts their ram slots above the CPU to lower the trace distance to improve ram overclocking. It's a well known and highly touted feature on the enthusiast motherboards they make. The thing is, to get the fastest ram overclocking they also only have two ram slots, a sacrifice your average customer may not want to make. As for budget vs mid range boards, HWunboxed tested cheap b650 boards and most of the $120 boards had no issue running a 7950x at full load without overheating. That's certainly within specification and reasonable. There are a620 boards out there that have tdp limits for the CPU because they don't have good enough VRMs, so I would in general just avoid A620 with the pricing of b650. Of the b650 boards HWunboxed tested, only two boards (both Asus) failed with a 7950x at full load, so that's legitimately a worst case scenario and most of them were fine. https://youtu.be/DTFUa60ozKY?si=T05QqTnpw583fYsy As for calling the mid range $200, that's your opinion. If a $120 b650 motherboard can handle a Ryzen 7950x, that's really more than enough for most users is it not? I've even seen PCI-e gen 5 support on $120 motherboards! Now, your concern of ANY board having an issue with a Ryzen 7500 is completely unfounded. Even the worst A620 board can handle that chip. As I brought up above, with higher end chips there is a concern, but the low end chips you'll never have an issue. There's really only two things in motherboard reviews worth evaluating: 1. The "HALO" products. Enthusiast motherboards designed for overclocking. It's completely valid to test and push those extremely expensive $500+ boards to see what the best case scenario of performance can be. 2. Just finding where "good enough" is. What's the point where "hey this budget motherboard can handle the 14900k/7950x just fine at stock, so you're good to go".

What proof do you need? It's a mathematic equation. Rtx 4070 full load power consumption: ~200w Ryzen 5700 full load power consumption: ~100w Additional devices like fans, SSDs, hard drive, etc headroom: ~50w Total: ~350w Give yourself ~50w to play with I wish major tech YouTubers would just test this rather than people constantly arguing "you need to over spec PSU". Go ahead and run a system with what the math suggests, and 99.9% of the time you are going to be fine. Of course, if you use a Coolmax PSU or something obviously a fire hazard that's a different story.

Pci-e 3.0 x8 is perfectly fine for a Rx 6600. In that video you attached, it's mostly a 1-2 fps difference on average. It's not a problem. The 3060 is simply overkill AND it draws 170w. Too much to be done safely this way. Cannot reccomend it. In gaming? It is overkill. It just is with this cpu. Therefore, I stand by reccomendation of a Rx 6600 or a Gtx 1660ti with the other options I listed as alternatives depending on pricing. Also, you're looking at a 4790k running at 4.4ghz. OP has an i7 4790, that runs at 4ghz. 400mhz clock speed is a pretty significant difference on a product of this age.

The 5700xt is actually about the same as a 1080ti these days. This is due to AMD finewine technology or optimizing their crap launch drivers, however you view that. OP, what about importing from AliExpress? AliExpress has good prices on the Rx 5700 and Rx 5700xt quite often. If the importing isn't too crazy, I'd just do that.

If you can read Chinese and know what you're buying then yes. If you can't read Chinese, I'd avoid since you will have a hard time knowing what you're buying.

Wow, so this is actually quite simple. First off, return the Rtx 3060. It makes no sense. You have an i7 4790, it's an old CPU that cannot possibly hope to keep up with a Rtx 3060. Now, let's get a REASONABLE gpu for the system. You will want something that's using a single 6 pin or single 8 pin. The Rx 6600, Gtx 1660 models (ti is the best, followed by the 1660 super then 1660), and Gtx 1060 6gb are the cards you should choose from. Depends what pricing is like on the used market in your region as to which to pick. Don't buy a brand new Rx 6600, too much money. Stick to used, and really the 6600 isn't worth much a premium over the 1660ti in this case because the CPU is gonna be the bottleneck. These GPUs are all in the 120w-130w range, something this PC can handle with the current PSU. Now, to power these cards you will need a 6 or an 8 pin. To get that, you use a dual SATA to 8 pin (6+2) adapter. About $5-6. Like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/184834291436?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=C_pEmDIxSEO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=5uuha8tgrd-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY DO NOT USE THIS ADAPTER TO TRY AND POWER A 3060, the 3060 uses too much power and if you burn down your house I'm not responsible.

Why would you get an engineering sample 13900? The i9 13900 engineering samples don't run at very high clock speeds. That's a bad idea if you need single thread performance.

I'm just gonna horrify the PSU snobs here: I ran a Rtx 4070 with a Ryzen 5700 on a 400w Rosewill power supply. Had a single SSD, no hard drive. No rating psu, cheapest junk you can get. I tested it full load with prime 95 and Furmark, it was fine. Carry on about your arguments as to how a 650w unit cannot possibly manage this.

It's fine. Depends what games you're playing whether CPU or GPU matters more. 6950xt is an odd choice though, unless you're getting it at a good price because the 7900xt is just a newer generation card with a bit more performance. But hey, if the savings are enough sure it works!

If you don't like G-sync, you'd hate Freesync. Your best bet is probably to wait and see what the 4000 Super refresh brings. That'll probably drive the prices down. Currently, the 4070 at $520 or so is a decent option, but I think purely speculating that Nvidia is going to drop a super card in that $700-800 range that'll be compelling. The 4070ti is a $700+ card there are rumors they are slowing production on to replace it with something with more than 12gb of vram, which has been a major complaint with a card of that performance level since launch. Used anything Rtx 3080 or better would be an upgrade. AMD offerings are fine, if you can deal with the lack of ray tracing/DLSS. Based on your games, you probably can. If you go that route, 7800xt or 7900xt are good upgrades. Any used Rx 6800 or better you find is an option as well.

If you installed it correctly (plugged in all the cables? It does have 2 power connectors not one like your 1060) it is a dead gpu. Those GPUs are the same generation, so if a Gtx 1060 works a 1080 would work. It can't be some weird setting in the bios causing the issue since they are the same GPU generation.

Again, card degradation comes in the form of memory going bad not stutters/frame dropping. I really would suggest figuring out what is wrong with your current system, because it is fixable. Another thing worth looking into is that it's not even the GPU at fault. The issues you described also can be caused by a virus/background program that is stealing CPU cycles.