DankDoodles

My dumb cat had a wonderful time chewing along the whole strip of the power cable. No punctures from the looks of it, though I want to replace it for safety concerns sake. I tried looking through the specs of the ROG-THOR-1200P to figure out what kind of specs the new power cord needs to be. I'm no electrical engineer, so I am hoping someone here can point me in the right direction on a computer power cord on Amazon. I need that to be at least 12 feet so the cord to the stupid thing goes up my standing desk rather than on the ground and being a tripping hazard. If it is highly unsafe for a power cord to be this long to a 1200W PSU, just send the recommended length instead. tl;dr Need help finding a 12-foot-long power cord on Amazon with specs that are compatible with the ROG-THOR-1200P.

Currently, my house is running on some old coax cabling and I plan on replacing it. My new internet plan will be 1G Fiber hosted by Frontier. From my research, if I am running a brand new line across my house, I should go with CAT6 ethernet. The problem is, that there are a lot of different types of CAT6 ethernet cables. Can someone recommend me, preferably Amazon links, a CAT6 ethernet cable that is greater than 200 to 400 feet in length? Thanks!

I am going to upgrade my dual monitor setup to a triple monitor setup. For some reason, I cannot for the life of me find any monitors with these qualifications: 16:10 aspect ratio 2560x1600 resolution 1ms response time (if possible) 27 inch 144hz IPS The only ones I can find are meant to be portable/tablet. Is the monitor I want doesn't exist?!

For more clarification: It is missing the first 4 seconds of the audio where Linus says "My computer just died". This results in all audio being cut off at 22:20 to 22:24. I think this happened while you guys were exporting the audio tracks for different languages on YouTube. I discovered that the 4 missing seconds for some reason were Linus in the "Spanish (United States)" track and the "Portuguese (Brazil)" track. At the beginning of both tracks, Linus says "My computer just died" in English, and then the translated voice is played. Because of this 4-second delay, it causes the translated audio to be interrupted at the end of the video. Hope this helps, good luck!

So at what amperage do you recommend then? The room isn't "any normal room in any house in America" and a new breaker is needed for this room. The current breaker goes through multiple rooms before it leads into the cave, leaving it with little power. The limit of how much power you can use in the cave is way less than how much power you can use in another room. So much so as I said in the post above, the room isn't able to even support enough power for fast charging on a phone. If it isn't enough to do fast charging for a phone, I don't think it will be enough for my other electronics connected to it. Hope this elaboration helps! The electrician I had was very new on the field. Despite having a license as an electrician, their experience and "expertise" is very limited. I called the electrician to install power to a new AC unit and to install two lights. These supposedly simple tasks ended up being VERY hard for the technician. I would go into more detail about everything they did/think wrong, but I don't want to turn this help request into a rant post. Thanks for the input! I am getting recommended either 20 amp or 15 amp, though most of my previous installers are recommending 15 amps with a GFCI. I will probably go with 15 amps then since the existing wiring is configured for a 15 amp circuit and not a 20 amp circuit.

Budget (including currency): USD (Budget unknown) Country: United States of America / Florida Workloads: Computer 1, Computer 2, and 3D printer. Other details: Here are the states for Computer 1, Computer 2, and 3D Printer. Computer 1: Uses an ASUS Rog Thor 1200W which powers an AMD Ryzen 5900x and a TUF 3080Ti for gaming, recording, and 3D modeling. Computer 2: Uses an ASUS ROG STRIX 850W which powers an Intel Core i9-10900K and an EVGA 1080 Ti for VR gaming and recording. 3D Printer: It is a AnkerMake M5C 3D Printer which uses 350W according to the specs. What's the story? Currently, the new office (let us call it the "cave") doesn't have enough power to draw from. My house is really long, and by the time the power reaches there to the end of the house, there isn't enough left over. It is so bad that I can't even use fast charging for my phone back there. What is it that I am asking? I need help figuring out what to do with this power issue. What should I do to solve this power problem? I am thinking of having the cave on a dedicated breaker, the problem is that the outlets in the cave are 14 amps and the electrician says I need 20 amps for the hardware I want to run, despite that in my current office I am using 14 amps. I hope you all understand what I am asking, it's hard to ask a question and give context to something you fully don't understand/

The facts: Blocking ads on phones is harder than blocking ads on a computer. You need to watch ads to get in-game rewards on phone games. You won't get an in-game reward if the game isn't able to load an ad. The question: Is it possible to trick an application, in this case on Android, to think that it has watched an ad, without the user having to go through/watch an ad? Why not just watch the ad? Because recent ads "X" buttons are RIDICULOUSLY SMALL and it is annoying I keep clicking on the ad instead of the "X" almost every time! I have the same morals as I do on the computer, I only allow ads to platforms that I find willing to watch unless I supported them other how (like buying a bottle at LLT.store). Has

I record a lot of footage in mkv. Problem that I am seeing right now is that a lot of footage, and with so much footage requires a lot of storage. For majority of the videos, they can have minutes or HOURS blank or unusable video. Window's included trimmer with the "Movies & TV" app is VERY slow, it barely even allocates anything, neither CPU, GPU, etc. Anyone have a program in mind that would help me Trim these mkv files?

I have a hard drive that needs replacing, and I just bought a new hard drive. Can someone recommend me a youtube video and or program to help me copy all of my data, including the windows installation, to the new drive? I am thinking of buying this temporarily and then returning it after I am done https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HD2B/dp/B0759567JT

Sorry in advance that this is located at the wrong place, but I have no idea where to post this information. Here is the scammer information. YT Comment Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03cezdF7J5I&lc=UgzYqsgnZJpYlmCerqx4AaABAg.9cF_J1hm8Dt9cFtrldhhHO YT Channel Link: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQVuXIUW5SxQEvS4qiYxRIQ Quick Q.n.A "No one will fall for this" I wish that was true! There are people, from children to grown adults, that fall for these petty scams everyday. this is the end of the quick q.n.a

Noted, but I am looking between either 2x16GB or 4x8GB 3200Hz RAM.

DDR4 Memory at 3200Hz since the stuff I am going to do on this computer won't be super crazy

Intel Core i5-11600K 3.9 GHz 6-Core Processor Asus TUF Gaming Z590-PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1200 Motherboard Asus GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB TUF GAMING OC Video Card (Maybe a 3060 or 3070 in the future)

As it says in the title... What kind of RAM Setup I should get? 2x16GB or 4x8GB at 3200Hz speeds. Specs I am going for are: Intel Core i5-11600K 3.9 GHz 6-Core Processor Asus TUF Gaming Z590-PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1200 Motherboard Asus GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB TUF GAMING OC Video Card Is there a difference? Or is the only difference is the prices?

Managed to fine this and it should work perfectly fine RGBZONE 32.8ft 5 Pin RGBW Extension Cable Wire Cord

Here is my current setup for my LEDs: • BTF-LIGHTING Controller • BTF-LIGHTING 5050 RGBW LED Strip • 24V AC Power Supply Adapter The Problem: The 5PIN wire between the LED Strip and the LED Controller is too short! I need connection that goes to the LED Strip and how to connect the other end of the wire to the LED Controller. What items (preferably from Amazon) should I get for an extension (or some other thing that would fix my issue)? I am having a very hard time finding something that can connect to each ends of the wire. I was thinking of getting something like this (image below) then cut it to length, problem is that I don't know what to put at the end of the connectors.

Why is Windows 10 taking up 370 GB for "system" stuff for my (D:) SSD instead of where Windows 10 is installed (C:)?

I bought a new SSD which is 4TB of storage because my steam games were taking up a lot of space. After I added it and format the SSD, I moved my Steam Games. I then realize that for some reason under the SSD Properties, it says that the capacity of the SSD is 3.63 TB! Where did the 370 GB of storage go??

My new GPU finally came today! But this little s#@% wouldn't let me pull out my GPU. I pushed it in, NOTHING, pulled it out, NOTHING, and it ONLY finally came off when the stupid plastic metal-covered bit broke off. Here's the Amazon listing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MTKJ6HM/ Here are my list of panicked questions: What is the name of this thing? Can and how how do I replace it? If this broke off, did it cause damage to the PCIE slot? Is it still safe to put my GPU inside? How do I know if the PCIE slot is damaged? Do I need to replace my entire motherboard for this?

Problem is that I will have to wait for almost 5 weeks before my power supplier can come over with an electrician and do it. They are very behind schedule and I don't feel like waiting to have a functioning fan and light above me.

Story: So one day the light of the ceiling fan stopped working, and since I needed a new fan anyways I bought one. I turned off the breaker, took the fan off, and since the power was off and I had a new spare light switch, I thought I would replace that too. Currently, this story is about the light switch. I removed the light switch, for some reason some of the wires were wrapped together, and my dumb idiot brain decided to untangle the wires, turns out the wires were wrapped for a reason!! The problem: How in the world do I put this together? (See image/diagram below) • I am installing this light switch to control the ceiling fan (green). • I don't want the light switch (green) to affect whether or not it gives powers to the light switch (blue). • The light switch (blue) is located in the other room, and this switch will be the one that decides whether or not the ceiling fan (blue) gets power. Here is an image containing descriptions and problems I am currently asking for help: • Black: Positive (Live wire) • White: Neutral • Copper: Ground • Green: Refers to the room located where the three wires are (image below). This room is my office. • Blue: Refers to the other room where constant power should be sent to the light switch (blue). This room is my bedroom. (No image attached) Someone please help me!! A video (preferably) or a diagram will be extremely helpful. If you want more information or need to ask me questions so you can help me further, don't be afraid to do so!

I can't tell if they did these pricing intentionally or not. Kinda wish I could leave a tip just so I can tip 3 cents.

It depends. From what I have read and can tell, doing simple/minor or basic maintenance electrical things like: Changing a lightbulb Changing light switches Changing outlets Replacing ceiling fan (probably) are probably fine doing. (not a legal expert so don't count it on me) I mean if I did do it illegally, no one will go charging into my house randomly and inspect to see whether I go to jail or not. They probably wouldn't even be able to tell if an electrician did it or not since if you did something stupid then an electrician can also probably do that stupid thing you did. So far I have done better than previous electricians. When replacing an outlet for some stupid reason the white wire wasn't securely connected to the outlet. Whoever installed the ceiling fan did a horrible job, instead of getting a slightly shorter screw they instead added 20 washer rings. All of the outlets that they ended up installing was either crooked or wiggled too much against the wall.

These are the products I ended up purchasing via Amazon ELEGRP Decorator Receptacle, 15A 125V (Perfect for what I needed and the price) Lutron CW-1-WH-6 Wallplate (No exposed screws) Gardner Bender GSP-04 Electrical Switch and Receptical Spacers (Very helpful, allowed the outlet to be very flushed against the wall) Images of the results are shown below: