Pocketmouse

Maybe that's the better route for me then, thanks!

Alright, ya caught me, that's actually what I'm using now. XD Using DSM 6.0.2-8451 I just remember that being a huge pain to get working properly since support for it has faded quite a bit. Also, maybe I am wrong, but don't you need to match the specifications of the hardware on specific disk stations for it to work properly? I am upgrading my gaming rig and will have 16 GB of RAM and an i7 4770K that will be sitting around the house taking up space, I thought it might work out well to have my . My current Xpenology only has 4 GB of RAM and an i3 4130. I'm just trying to give my server some much needed "Oomf" so more people can stream media at a time without stalling up the system.

I am considering replacing my Synology NAS with a custom built PC using Ubuntu (or another flavor of Linux- haven't decided for certain) and FreeNAS, the only thing that's really holding me back from completely swapping over to FreeNAS is that my wife will help me out with a project from time to time or put pictures and documents up on the Synology and all she has to do is log in from whatever device and drag and drop and that's that. Will a web GUI still be available if I use FreeNAS? If not is there another option that has similar features to a Synology Disk Station?

Can you explain how this is helpful to OP's issue?

You have a lot of options to consider. If you're just concerned about your CPU's speed you could always just go for an i7 7700K which comes with a price tag of just under 350 (conveniently), but if you're looking for something newer here's a build I put together for under $350 that will significantly boost your performance as well: Specs: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X $179.99 Motherboard: AsRock B450M Pro4 $75.61 Memory: 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 MHz $84.99 Total: $340.49 https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Pocketmouse/saved/#view=9Zmx6h I used DDR4 3200 because Ryzen CPU's perform better with faster memory and since you only had 2400 MHz memory, I opted to go for memory instead of an after market cooler since the 2600X comes with the Wraith Spire cooler and while it isn't top-of-the-line, it's much better than Intel's stock cooler, or (in the case of recent generations) no cooler at all. Of course, you can always swap the Memory out for a cooler if you deem that more important.

I own the X62, it's a pretty neat cooler! I originally installed it with the pre-applied stuff last year in November and a couple days ago I went through and cleaned out my case and decided to change out the thermal paste while I was at it. The new stuff didn't make a world of difference but it did lower the temps by a couple degrees, I'm not sure if it's because it was a new coat or if the thermal paste I used was better than what they used. So I wouldn't say it's as bad as the stuff that comes pre-applied to AMD or Intel's stock coolers, but still, since it was applied on the day of manufacturing who knows how long the cooler was just sitting in a box on some shelf in a ware house before it was shipped to you. If you have a tube of paste I'd clean it off and put a new coat on just because a coat applied day one of use is always going to be better than a coat that was applied weeks or months before use. That said if you don't have a tube of thermal paste or the means to clean it off, I wouldn't stress about it.

I actually could make those work- I have about 15 feet left of my 20 foot rubber cable cover which should be enough to cut up and run the cables through underneath the carpet at the door ways. It's certainly the most time consuming option but it would look the best in my opinion. At the end of the day however, I think the most practical option would be the zip tie anchors @Enderman suggested- I found a different type on amazon that can be screwed/nailed into the wall. Since I'm living in a relative's house and not an apartment, it's easier for me to get permission to do things like nailing things into the wall and stuff- I'm just fairly weary of it cause accidents happen and I don't want to be responsible for a big hole in the wall- that said I think I can handle putting a few nails in the wall.

What are those?? That looks fantastic and exactly the type of thing I'm looking for

My cable management hooks don't stick to the wall for very long in a specific corner downstairs and it 's driving me crazy. I do not own the house so I don't currently have permission to pull cables through the walls (I haven't really asked so I'm not saying it's out of the question, but I like having options). I have these nice hooks that for the most part keep the cables up along the ceiling/wall in the basement. This is near where all my hardware is located- I have two PC's, a server and all my networking equipment (Xfinity cable Modem, Router, and POE Switch that feeds the PC's and Ubiquiti AP). The cable comes into the cable modem (obviously) and is run along side an Ethernet cord that was pre-installed and goes upstairs and a power extension cord to get power to all my equipment (it's an older hosue and doesn't have a lot of power outlets). It's kind of a hacked together office set up for my wife and I, so it doesn't look great but looks better when the cabling stays where it's supposed to. Attached is a picture of what I'm dealing with and where I'd like the cabling to go (sorry for the bad lighting): The white Cable is the power cord, the Black is the modem cable and blue is the Ethernet. As you can see the cables drop down in front of two doors (the one on my left is my bedroom door and the one on the right is dry storage) and you can't really see it in the picture but the adhesive strips have just peeled off the wall and are dangling on the cord. The white patch is some really sticky tape that also just peels off after a few days. Just past the door on the right is where my modem is- not behind the door but down, to the right of the doorway and in front. To apply the adhesive I take a cotton swap and rubbing alcohol and scrub the surface then wait for it to dry, hold the hook in place with firm pressure and wait about 30 seconds, then another 30 seconds before putting the cables on it. I'm using separate hooks for the ethernet and cable. I'd like them to follow along the path in red in the attached picture. Any suggestions on how I can get the cabling to stay put?

Hoooo boy. I basically spent the majority of my free time cleaning my dust filters, pulling the plastic "Tuf Guard" off, cleaning off my CPU cooler and reapplying a fresh dose of thermal paste. During my cleaning I did find the USB 3.0 front panel connector undone slightly but that wasn't being used so that shouldn't have caused any issue. So far so good. My CPU thermals have dropped a couple degrees but I guess that's to be expected after applying new thermal compound to the CPU. I guess we'll see how the memtest goes. I have not reset the BIOS just yet, since you suggested I test memory under it's current profile, but if I experience any crashes, that will be the next step. Thanks for the suggestions.

Good luck with that man, I'll let you know how everything turns out.

Mostly gaming. I do some light programing and multimedia projects like animating and sound production as well. The programming work load is run on my server not my PC though.

@ELSknutson Maybe you're misunderstanding my question. I'm not buying these parts I'm selling them so I can upgrade my PC. For my upgrade I was planning on going with Ryzen though. Thank you for the advice.

Thanks for the input, I'll drop it to $25, though I expect haggling to ensue. How much would you pay for it? Thank you, I have already reset the BIOS to factory defaults and still get the crash. I got the board last November and was receiving the crashes, as the temperature rises the crashes seem to happen more offten, therefore I believe it may have something to do with thermals on the board- I still have the "tough armor" or whatever the dust shield is called on the board which I understand doesn't help that much for thermals. I should probably try removing the dust shield and testing the memory though just in case. When the crash occurs the error I get in Windows 10 is a Blue screen with WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR, which from what I've read is usually related to hardware failure. Any input? I was kind of expecting to haggle so I'm shooting a bit higher, but from what everyone else is saying

Thanks for the input @ELSknutson, I will keep that in mind. I'm not trying to sell my parts and build off of the money I get for them, just trying to plan this out so that I spend less of my paycheck.

I'm needing to do an impromptu upgrade so to help with funds I've decided to sell the working parts of my build. My PC is starting to crash under light load and I have reason to believe it's the motherboard that's causing the issue- it was given to me for free and I was warned that it was causing issues on the previous owner's system too. Basically I'm thinking I'll throw in the motherboard for free if the buyer thinks they can fix it up and charge $225 for Memory and Processor. Here are the parts: CPU: Intel Core i7 4770K Haven't done much overclocking on it- asking for $175 (on ebay as high as 200 as low as $150 taking the middle ground here) RAM: Corsair Vengeance Pro (black/red color scheme) DDR3 1333 MHz- can easily clock to 1866 which I've had them at since I've owned them solid memory- asking price $50.00 (as high as $75.00 on ebay). Planning on posting this for sale to a closed FB group that deals with this sort of thing regularly and just wanted to see if I was pricing it too high/low or if this was a reasonable price to ask for parts.

I have checked guides online, that was the first thing I did. It says I should be able to just go to Storage Manager > Volume > Select the volume > Manage > Expand But that is not an option. Synology recognizes that I have a disk connected but will not format the disk. I feel like there's something I'm missing, but there's no documentation I can find that tells me how. There is a mountain of documentation that comes with a Synology but I was hoping to fast track this as I'm running out of storage.

I have the new drive connected physically to my server but I'm not sure how to format it so I can put files on it.

I'll mount it on the top again just to see what temperatures I get, but I honestly haven't really run into any issues on the bottom slot- I just wanted to make sure I wasn't putting any unwarranted stress on it- I want to make sure my investment lasts.

My 1080 TI is currently idlilng at 33-35C and on Superposition benchmarks it usually hits 84. but I haven't seen it hit that high while actually gaming.

I installed an AIO in my rig about a month ago. I hate how most of the time AIO pipes rest on top of the GPU and stick out (depending on where the radiator is mounted) to me it looks just as bad as having power cables unmanaged. In order to make room for the AIO tubes and have a sleeker look I moved my GPU down a slot and there's room for the piping- the only draw back I'm seeing so far is now that my GPU is down lower there's only about an inch to an inch and a half between the GPU and the bottom of my case. Here's a picture of my current set up as of 2 weeks ago. You can see the GPU mounted on the lower PCI Express 3.0 X16 slot- the perspective of the photo makes it look kind of like it's on the ground but there's about 1-1.5 inches between the GPU and the PSU shroud. Is this enough room? I'm also curious because my case can do a vertical mounted GPU which looks great but also puts the GPU's fans really close to the tempered glass on my case.

Thanks, that's too bad.

I just found out over the weekend that as of a driver update (417.71) that was released on January 15, 2019 NVIDIA GeForce cards (GeForce Series 600+) are now able to use adaptive sync on both G-Sync and Freesync Monitors. Was there any special reason why it took 5 years for this to happen or was this able to happen since the 600 series all along?

I don't care about the board- as stated before I am replacing it with a new one. I have 70% Isopropyl Alcohol and some of that Arcticlean CPU cleaner. I did my best to clean the CPU pins off but there's still some at the base of the pins... but after spending a lot of time painstakingly cleaning the pins I found that the front panel connectors on the HP case are unlabeled and in a proprietary configuration that don't match up with . (ノಠ益ಠ)ノ彡┻━┻ Screw it! I'm getting a new case and building a completely different PC that I can upgrade later.

My wife's PC has been behaving a little odd. Sometimes it will turn on and other times it will just sit fans running without a successful POST. She has an HP Envy 1414 (specs listed below). Her computer has been having problems and I have read on many forums that this pre-built model is just trash as far as reliability is concerned so I figured since I recently upgraded my rig, it was time to introduce her to the power and beauty of custom built PC's. Since I recently spent quite a bit of money on my rig we decided that for now we would just salvage the good parts from her PC and replace the bad parts. HP Envy H8 1414 System Specs: CPU: AMD FX 6120 CPU cooler: Stock Motherboard: Proprietary AM3 or AM3+ socket uATX form factor Memory: 10 GB (2x 4 GB 1x 2 GB) Kingston DDR3 1600 SSD: None HDD: 1 TB Western Digital WD Blue 10EZEX GPU: AMD Radeon HD 7450 PSU: Proprietary can't see any wattage listed Case: Proprietary So last night her new motherboard arrived along with her aftermarket CPU cooler and this morning I began to salvage what I could from her PC and clean out her case. When it came time to remove the CPU I found that HP had not only used a crappy Intel knock off stock cooler for the CPU, they had also used way too much thermal paste. So much thermal paste in fact- that it had essentially glued the CPU to the heatsink and gushed out the sides onto edges of the CPU chip. And it gets worse- because when I managed to get the fan off the CPU I found that the thermal paste was on some of the edge pins of the CPU and on the socket. I was going to replace the motherboard anyway but is there a way I can save the CPU or does my wife need to wait for a CPU replacement to arrive as well?