gtr2244

 I did email the CEO with the photo and explained how I wouldn't send in my motherboard damaged, and I didn't have any photos before shipping to prove I didn't cause it. He asked for the photo I did have just showing the board with the cpu cover on, and at the end of the day he waived the repair fee.  If anyone needs CEO support, just look on the Asus website under support. 

Next time I rma something I'll make sure to photo the serial number clearly, with clear photos of the cpu pins.

 I have an Asus Tuf Z690 Plus motherboard I sent in for rma beginning of March. I didn't check the serial number and found out they replaced my board in the previous rma with a refurbished or new one. So having the wrong serial # took all month for them to process, and finally getting an email today saying I had caused physical damage and it was not going to be repaired under warranty. The picture they sent me has a few cpu pins bent or missing, I wouldn't have bothered sending this type of damage to them hoping for a free fix. My choice, pay $135 for repair, dispute, or toss it in the garbage. I sent in a dispute even though I don't have a picture to show my cpu pins before shipping. I also sent an email to their CEO on the Asus site. I hope this isn't a scam. any further steps I could take please let me know, thanks.

I finally received the RM850x Shift, the side plugs really make a difference, easy to install and hide the cables. They placed a sticker on the psu saying low power will cause the fan to not spin. I can't hear the psu fan at all, low or high power usage. Glad I bought it. Where the 2 RM850e's both sounded like a small engine I hope they figure that out.

 My temps on start up are up to 45c idle. Nothing restricting the air flow, fan is facing down, on a mesh filter. The psu is running constantly and sounds like a small motor, louder than my water pump motor, kind of an annoyance since I have all Noctua fans. That graph is on the outside of the box, I do have the psu watts on in Afterburner. It's  117w with only a web browser and no programs open, 327w while gaming. If you look at the RM850x it has a graph and it also says 0 fan noise 25c ambient. It does appear to be temperature controlled.  Corsair did have me send in a sound file of the noise which helped in the rma process.

 My case is an S2, it does fit with the shift. The shift is a better psu, having Japanese capacitors than non which is in the RM850e. The db graph shows at 50% load does the fan start to make noise. Hopefully it'll be quieter. I will give it a try and let you know the results.

My case doesn't have the room for a shift. Shift has the cables on the side of the psu. RMx looks good, some reviews were saying they had issues. On the Amazon description it shows a graph. @25c ambient it has 0 fan speed until 340 watts. Who has a pc that runs that cool? Maybe that's why my psu keeps turning on the fan because it's not power draw, it's above 25c then turns on. It is a loud fan motor noise though. The RM850x I'm looking at is $194 usd, so many versions. Low noise and nearly silent at low loads it says. 340-540 watts. 

Your right, just describes the fan as 0 rpm mode at lower temperatures. On the side of the box it has the graph, but you can't see it on the picture. I did contact Corsair, they're willing to rma it. I'm wondering if they'll give me a refund. Do you have a recommendation for other psu's?

Just read some others saying the RME series have loud fans and defective, I'm going to return this, find a better made one.

It's a Fractal Design S 6, the psu has the fan down. All the information is on the Corsair website, and on the box. At 170 watts the fans turn on, 10 db up to 340 watts, then starts to increase db to 60 tops. Has a graph for the description.

My case temps are around 35-45c idle.

Windows 11 Home

CPU: i9 12900k stock

GPU: Asus Tuf RTX 3080 OC 

MB: Asus Tuf z690 Pro

Ram: Corsair Dominator 2x8 gig 3600 hz

PSU: Corsair RM850e 

SSD: Samsung 980 Pro 1 Ter

M.2 Sata: WD Black 2 Ter, WD Blue 500 gig

I recently bought a Corsair RM850e psu, had sent it back because it kept turning on even while on the desktop using chrome, nothing open in the background. Now with the replacement, same model, the fan is constantly running. I have a silent case so this is the only noise I hear while idle. It is supposed to be 0 fan use until 170 watts, then 10 db of noise, which it sounds about what I'm hearing, but my pc shouldn't be drawing 170 watts while idle, what I've read it isn't drawing close to that. Any suggestions ?

Anyone recommend a small pump/res? Around $100, maybe Alphacool?

EK-XRES 100 DDC MX 3.1 PWM (incl. pump) is my pump/reservoir combo. The pump recently stopped working, I cleaned out the gunk from previous colored coolant and it worked for about a week. On EKWB site they only sell newer models and I didn't see my reservoir listed for compatibility , anyone know a pump replacement that would fit? Or should I just but a new unit. All I need is a small pump/res for my i9 12900k, EKWB has them listed for $200 usd and I'm not sure about Alphacool, they have one for about $60. The Eisstation. Mixed reviews.

 Checked the motherboard, made sure a cpu mount screws were evenly tightened, same no display.

I haven't checked for a bent pin, and I do have a similar cpu frame bracket , Thermaltake I think. Guess I'll have to do a tear down see if it is a pin.

My specs:

Windows 11 

i9 12900k stock

Asus Tuf 3080 oc

Asus Tuf z690 Plus

Corsair Dominator DDR4 16gig RAM (8x2)

Corsair RM 850e watt psu

EK Quantum cpu waterblock

 I just purchased the motherboard, 850w and ram, installed and booted with no post. The ram light on the motherboard is lit up, so I changed their positions from A2, B2 to A1, B1. Then just one stick. Cleared the cmos, checked my video cable, tried another cable, power cable connections, I'm not sure what else to try.

5 years? I cleaned the fluid because Primochill recommended every 6 months. My tubes aren't even that old, maybe a year. The sunlight doesn't reach the inside. I can remove this tint by cleaning it with a cloth at the end, something from the cooling liquid? Checkout the image I posted the link above.

I just watched a video and they mentioned Primochill does leave behind sediment in the radiator and blocks, I need to try another coolant. Maybe EKWB.

I just cleaned my custom loop with Primochill, the mixture has been sitting for about 1 year, it cleaned the cpu block but my tubes still have a yellowish tint. I'm wondering if I should soak the radiator and replace the tubes also. Last time I cleaned my pc and loop was 6 months ago. The Primochill worked well.

My radiator is a Corsair 240mm x 40mm. Not sure what the material is. Or if you have a system cleaner you can recommend or I might try a new Primochill cleaner bottle.

https://i.imgur.com/M75qTWf.jpg?1

I'm looking at this, the reviews are very positive, Still looking at other brands, ASUS TUF Gaming 27" 2K HDR Monitor (VG27AQ1A) - QHD (2560 x 1440), IPS, 170Hz (Supports 144Hz), 1ms, Extreme Low Motion Blur, Speaker, G-SYNC Compatible, VESA Mountable, DisplayPort, HDMI

It's $309 right now on Amazon.

I was wondering about that. Had this monitor for some time now. Any suggestions? $250-350 range, not sure what the market looks like.

Asus 3080

Asus z690 TUF Plus Motherboard

Asus VG248QE Monitor

Corsair HX 750i PSU

Corsair Dominator DDR4  2 x 8 gb @3600 mhz RAM

Windows 11 64 bit, Home

  I'm wondering is there something I need to optimize or change because in the games I'm playing the gpu is 80-100% and the cpu is always under 10%. Both at stock settings. Great fps, sometimes I do get unclear or not so smooth textures when I move my mouse cursor from left to right. 1920x1080p on all games. Hitman 3 I have tried with RTX settings on, gameplay is bad, turned off most of them, the cpu stays the same. Battlefield 2042 I have mostly medium and low settings with rtx off.

Got it done. I measured the distance between the top row holes and then the bottom row, the top row is shorter, on the motherboard. The back plate has Intel written on the top of it, thought that's the way to install it. Flipped it and it lined up, all set now. Thanks for your help.

I had my pc standing upright, with a screwdriver I pushed through the motherboard and the back plate, when I had 2 screws in the other 2 holes wouldn't line up, moving the back plate didn't help. Also when I tried to put the intel bracket back on, it wouldn't line up also. I remembered taking it off some screws weren't in, very loose. The time I opened the box.

I took it apart and tried to bolt it in again, I found that a hole is out of alignment. Returning it , maybe look for a differrent model, z690 ddr 4.

I tried slowly turning them, with more pressure, doesn't catch. The screws drop into the hole with little room to move. 

They catch without the frame.

I'm having a problem mounting the plate, I saw the video about backing the screws out, hear a click, then slowly tighten. 2 of the screws won't catch, backing out or turning clockwise, any solutions? Should I just use the 2 screws?

Asus Tuf z690 Pro, i9 12900k, both new.

Window 11 Home 64 bit

i7 8700k oc 5ghz

rtx 3080 

Corsair HX750i psu

My pc crashed while in safe mode, I had to reinstall Windows 11, since then my cpu has not been the same. Battlefield would normally run 60-70's usage, now it's 80-90's. The temperature is fine, 50's. Fallout 76 my gpu is under utilized, I've seen some posts recently of people complaining about games being laggy because of a Windows 11 update. Hitman 3 runs well, some minute stuttering. I've done some benchmarks in 3d Mark, I have descent scores.

Just wondering is there anything I can test or do to get the usage down? Or should I upgrade, maybe a i9 12900k, i9 13700?